Highlight recovery and Black point sliders greyed out.

Hi
Does anyone know if there is a reason that the recovery sliders would be greyed out and non functional for my images.
I have not been able to utilise this function in version two.
NW

did you migrate your RAW files to the new RAW 2.0 convertor ???
i believe that if left at the 1.1 it will prevent you from using the new features ...
migrate is under the file menu ... and can be done project by project, image by image or the whole library at once (very freaking slow if large library) ...

Similar Messages

  • Recovery and Black Point sliders not available

    Hi, I notice that these sliders are not available for RAW files that were loaded onto Aperture 1.5. Is there something I can do so I can make use of these sliders?
    Cheers,
    Mike

    Yes. Migrate the image to which you wish to apply these two adjustments to the 2.0 RAW converter. Mind that your colours may shift; possibly the best way to do this is to remove all adjustments first; this will also cause the image to be interpreted by the 2.0 RAW converter.
    Cheers,
    k.

  • Recovery, and Black Point Not Working in 2.0

    I imported RAW pics from my old database (converted to 2.0). Wanted to try the new exposure adjustments, mainly recovery and BP. The HUD only lets me adjust exposure and brightness, the recovery and black point are grayed out and cannot be adjusted.
    Has anyone got this adjustment to work? I am using the trial version. No, I am not in the preview mode. The master is Canon RAW from 40D.

    Got it. Thanks! Just figured it out too that you need to choose the v2.0 RAW conversion on the RAW Fine Tuning adjustment toggle.
    Recovery and BP adjust a lot more sluggish on my MBP w/4G Ram then it does in the tutorial video. This is concerning since in have only imported about 40 pics so far.
    Time will tell.

  • Recovery and Black Point on JPEG images

    I'm not a big fan of trying to do much editing on JPEG images aside from non-exposure/white balance type stuff. I'll crop and straighten, etc.
    My question pertains to (for those in the know) applying slight Recovery and Black Point correction to images that aren't shot in RAW format. A) will applying these slight changes having any effect (hopefully a positive one) on the images? B) if not, will it indeed have a negative effect?
    Thanks for your time and expertise.
    Mac

    Jim,
    Thanks for chiming in on a topic where I didn't expect to get many replies. All of your comments are well appreciated. I was basically asking because I was under the impression that unless your master is in RAW format, making adjustments to exposure, contrast and even recovery and black point would not do much and could even be detrimental to things such as skin tone, etc. I like to shoot in RAW for the reason of being able to have more fine control to adjustments, but for everyday shots and portraits I don't always go to RAW format since a lot of the time I have trouble getting the shot right with the manual controls. I also don't want the large RAW files for every shot that I take. Still, a lot of JPEG's need adjustments, even if just minor tweaks. The tweaks I make look fine on the screen, but I wasn't sure if they would look okay when printed out and I didn't want to spend countless hours making adjustments and spend (waste) money on prints that weren't going to come out good.
    Anyway, that is the background to my thinking in making this post. Thanks again for chiming in.
    Mac

  • Aperture2 - Recovery and Black Point adjustments question

    I purchased the Aperture2 upgrade and, I'm impressed!!!
    I have a question:
    In the *Adjustment Tab*:
    Two features in the *Exposure area, "Recover and Black Point"*, works sometimes and other times it does not.
    There must be a reason for it - I just can't figure out why this happens. One would think that it should work all the time!?
    Anyone know?

    C and Scott, thanks so much for trying to help this old codger learn new tricks.
    All the images I imported into Aperture2 are projects already completed and therefore I won't need to make adjustments to them. I was using them to test and learn the new Aperture2 features.
    But, Just in case I ever need to convert a RAW image from A1x to the A2 format I'll know how to do it.
    As I said before, as long as my new RAW images that I import directly into A2 have all the features available, I'm a happy camper. I won't be importing any images into A2 until after my shoot this evening, so, do you know if this is the case?

  • White and black point vs ??

    I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
    <br />
    <br />These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
    <br />
    <br />Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
    <br />
    <br />In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
    <br />
    <br />It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
    <br />
    <br />But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Thanks.
    <br />
    <br />Al
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />

    Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
    this image is before touch up
    These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
    After touch up
    Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
    This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
    I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
    Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
    What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
    And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
    These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
    I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures.

  • Setting  a White Point and Black Point

    I would like to suggest for future versions of lIghtroom to have an ability to set the white point and black points similar to levels and curves in Photoshop. This would be in addition to setting middle grey in the white balance settings currently in Lightroom.  I find that the method of using Threshold to find the closest white and black pixels and then using these points to set the black and white points in curves or levels provides a better way to fix a color cast than the methods available in Lightroom.

    MB,
    There is no real need for Black and White point eyedropper type tools in Lightroom.  By holding down the Alt key while changing the Blacks or Exposure sliders the display will show the areas that are being clipped.  This is much faster than looking around for the darkest and lightest areas manually.  If you just like to click to taste (like using the White balance dropper) then forget the Alt key and just move the sliders until you get the desired look.
    Remember that the problem with Photoshop is that there are so many ways to do the same thing that it has become difficult and bloated.  Lightroom strives to keep the interface as clear as possible.

  • Setting White, Mid and Black Points in Camera Raw 7

    I am using Camera Raw 7 and can not seem to locate where can you set the white, mid, and black points in Camera Raw with the eyedropper tool. It seems you have to create a new psd file in Photoshop to do this, which does not make much sense since it is a basic levels adjustment. I am batch editing a bunch of CR2 files, and I just need to select the black, mid and white points on a grayscale that I've shot in the images - is there a way to do this in Camera Raw 7? Thanks!!

    ACR doesn’t work that way.  There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers.  But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
    The reason things are different:  In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment.  In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file.  This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments.  Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
    Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image:  how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR?  There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

  • Options for recovery when 'recognize array' is greyed out?

    I have an X Raid with all the slots are full with 180MB drives and it's been running as two RAID 5 arrays of 1TB. Yesterday one drive showed a red light, so I shut the system down and re-seated the drive. All seemed well and the software began rebuilding the LUN map. When I cam back to it this morning two lights were red. I shut the system down, checked all the connections and brought it back to life, one side is now not recognised as an array - all the drives are green, but listed as 'spare'. I've swapped the drives to see if the controller is at fault, but this has no effect, and 'recognize array' is greyed out as an option.
    As the drives are not being seen as an array there seems to be nothing you can do - are there any further steps that can be taken, or do I just have to accept the data loss?

    Hi
    The same sequence of events that you describe happened at a site I support recently, unfortunately in that case you are looking at recreating the array that is listed as hot spares and recovering from your backup (you do have a backup don’t you?).
    Unless someone knows differently?
    As Donald has already said you don’t shut down the RAID if a drive fails or shows a degraded state. If you don’t have a spare handy act quickly and order one asap. When it arrives swap the drives and watch it rebuilding in RAID Admin. If the drive has failed or is degraded the controller will rebuild the data on that drive from the striped parity data that is stored on the other drives - that is what RAID 5 does. RAID 5 is the default configuration for XServe RAID and as such offers you one point of failure. You can configure the RAID as RAID 5 with a hot spare, this configuration offers you two points of failure. The users guide for RAID Admin has more information regarding the different types of RAID configurations that are supported and that can be used.
    Tony

  • Get and Put options are greyed out in DW CS4

    I am a fairly green Dreamweaver user, and recently (finally) upgraded from MX4 to CS4.  I am trying to get a file from my local c:drive and both the get and put functions are greyed out.  Any idea how to enable these functions?  I do not have the file that I wish to transfer open.

    When you say you are trying to get a file from your local c:drive, dio you mean that you are trying to import a file into your site from elsewhere on your computer, rather than 'getting' it from your remote server.  If you are trying to import a file from your local c:drive don't use the 'get' or 'put' buttons because they are just for remote connections, instead just use windows explorer to locate the file then either copy or cut and paste the file into the folder for your site.
    Richard

  • The back, forward, reload and stop buttons are greyed out, the address bar stays blank when I go to a website and firefox loads to a blank page, not my home page. There are 3 users on this computer and it only happens on one user.

    Firefox loads to a blank page, not my home page. When I click on the home button it takes me to the home page. The back, forward, refresh and stop buttons are greyed out and not usable. The webpage I am on does not show up in the address bar. If I type something into the address bar, that address stays there no matter what page I go to next.

    Just upgraded to v4. It did NOT fix the problem.

  • I can't figure out why my reverb and echo things are greyed out

    I can't figure out why my reverb and echo things are greyed out on the bottom right of my screen with the edit tab open for the track. I was going to put a screenshot in here but I couldn't figure it out. I one can understand what I mean. Thank you.

    bennirubber wrote:
    reverb and echo things are greyed out on the bottom right of my screen
    http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#effectsdisabled
    (Let the page FULLY load. The link to your answer is at the top of your screen)

  • The back and forward arrows are greyed out all the time - How can I fix this?

    I am currently using firefox ver 21. However the forward and back buttons are greyed out and will not work. I would be happy to re-install the program but how do I re-install without losing all my bookmarks and settings.
    Please advise.

    Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode|Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions (Firefox/Tools > Add-ons > Extensions) or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox/Tools > Add-ons > Appearance).
    *Do NOT click the Reset button on the Safe Mode start window or otherwise make changes.
    *https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Safe+Mode
    *https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes
    You can check for problems with the places.sqlite database file in the Firefox profile folder.
    *http://kb.mozillazine.org/Bookmarks_history_and_toolbar_buttons_not_working_-_Firefox
    *https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Bookmarks+not+saved#w_fix-the-bookmarks-file

  • Spelling and grammar option is greyed out in preferences. How to switch it on ?

    'Spelling and grammar' option is greyed out in 'preferences'. How to switch it on ?

    Hi john,
    Does anyone know why its there and what its use is, and in what circumstances I can use it ?Its use to search the folders in the Business areas.
    Which version of discoverer are you using?
    The graying out of the icons might be due to the cache memory of java.go through this link for details
    [http://learndiscoverer.blogspot.com/2006/06/lost-or-grayed-out-icons-in-discoverer.html]
    hope it helps you.
    Best Wishes,
    Kranthi.

  • Copy and pasting a page in an existing document? Copy and paste functions are greyed out? Also tried extracting the page to copy but am alerted that an incorrect structure was found in the PDF file?

    copy and pasting a page in an existing document? Copy and paste functions are greyed out? Also tried extracting the page to copy but am alerted that an incorrect structure was found in the PDF file?

    What do you mean by "copy and paste a page"? What tool have you selected? Or are you just assuming you can select stuff and copy/paste as in Word?

Maybe you are looking for