Hmm, Something I'm Doing Wrong?
I'm a bit confused on the Arch installation. I've done linux installations before, but this one has me stumped. Here's the situation in review.
1. I had Windows Server 2003 installed.
2. I burned the Arch iso to CD.
3. Restarted, etc. etc. etc.
Ran the install. Pretty much left everything default did Auto on the partitioning.
I did notice a bunch of "grep: No such file or directory" when the packages were being installed. What's going on here? Something isn't adding up. Did my system not get formatted or something? When the installation completed -- I restarted and after Grub began loading the whole thing went to pot -- I was getting panic errors as well as notices telling me that the system could not be booted -- I mean the filesysem could not be mounted. Hmm, any ideas? I'm quite experienced as far as this pc goes, but I'm really scratching my head right now.
Well, what exactly is wrong? What partitioning scheme did you (try to) apply? Did it take effect? What error messages are you getting? I can't diagnose your problem unless you at least describe the symptoms. Could be anything from a failing hard drive or a corrupt filesystem to a broken menu.lst.
I will say that if you left *everything* default, there is no reason to expect anything at all. You *must* ensure that the config files are appropriately set up during the installation; Arch's installer won't do that for you.
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I have an I-Phone 3G and when I uploaded my company's app to my phone, thee app added but the data didn't. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Thank you. Here's the strange part, it did work at one time but when the last IOS upgrade occured, that's when the issue started.
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Hello. I created my apple id on a computer but whenever i try to use it on my (new) iphone, it says "review" after which nothing happens. I have not been able to purchase anything from the App store. Is there something i'm doing wrongly?
Have you looked in your email for a confirmation of the new apple id?
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After upgrading and beginning log in to sites I've previously saved login names/passwords for...the fields no longer pre-fill.
After upgrading and beginning log in to sites I've previously saved login names/passwords for...the fields no longer pre-fill.
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How do I sync my Iphone to itunes. I have a HP windows 8.1. MY ipod will not sync either.
So PLEASE HELP!!!!Hello jmazumba
Continue your troubleshooting with the article below to resolve the issue with connecting to iTunes. It will walk you through checking the drivers as well as third party security software for any conflicts.
iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1538
Regards,
-Norm G. -
When I rent a movie using Apple TV,it takes several hours to load. At this point, I opt to watch later. When I try to watch the movie, it starts loading again and tells me that it will be ready to watch in one hour forty four minutes. This can't be normal. Is there something I am doing wrong? Any suggestions.
If it's taking several hours then that is likely due to your internet connection. You can verify at speedtest.net
6mbps required for instant 720P
8mbps for 1080P
You can switch to SD in the settings (which only requires 3mbps)
You can also check istumbler or netstumbler for interference
Make sure you are on your ISPs DNS
The reloading is normal. There is no accessible storage on ATV. The small flash is used for caching streamed content, if you access other things or turn the device off it will be flushed. -
Muddy photos--what am I doing wrong?
Hello all,
I'm a newish Lightroom user. I feel that my photos usually look very muddy around the edges/details when zoomed in in Lightroom.
I am attaching an example that I shot RAW using Canon 5D Mark II with the 24-70mm lens. Is it something I'm doing wrong either when shooting or with post processing?
Thanks so much for any answer.Basics are not adjusted optimally, consider:
Exposure: Left (you got the whole thing, including midtones shifted too far rightward - highlights are getting jammed and blacks are unhinged).
Contrast: Left (it's a high contrast photo, with little need for midtone contrast, so it seems contrast reduction is called for - will help lift shadows and control highlights without excessive use of highlights & shadows sliders).
Highlights: Left (to preserve highlight detail).
Shadows: Right (to bring light into the woman's darkness).
Whites: Right (to keep dress bright and maintain sense of "contrast", and expand highlights for dress detail).
Blacks: Left (to get rid of that muddiness , and maintain sense of "contrast"). Note: with -contrast & +shadows, -blacks should not make the bottom end too dark.
Clarity to taste...
PS - As you know, you can also use tone curve for fine-tuning tonal distribution, but consider doing most of the heavy lifting with the basics.
PPS - Consider a touch of paint too, to perfect - e.g. +exposure -contrast in darker regions around face/hair - as long as -blacks is strong enough, this should not result in muddiness (or you could "cheat" and use a radial gradient instead of paint ).
Also, consider clicking auto-tone to see what Lr would do with it - can often be highly educational .
Summary: this is a photo that warrants full dynamic range, in my opinion - ideally there should be some black clipping and some white clipping. Within that dynamic range, basics, tone curve and local supplementation for most pleasing tonal distribution...
eh?
UPDATE:
I processed the jpeg screenshot and found a pleasing result by:
* dropping exposure a little bit (not as much as I expected would be needed).
* decreasing contrast a lot.
* increasing whites a lot.
* decreasing blacks a lot.
* minimal -highlights
* minimal +shadows
* one big radial gradient over shadow side (her right) of face (+exposure).
* one small radial gradient over other (her left) eye (+exposure).
* No clarity required.
* Bumped saturation (often helps restore "presence" when reducing contrast to satisfy tonal goals).
Points:
* Minimal use of shadows slider eliminated the harsh look and obviated need for -clarity.
* lowered exposure, coupled with -blacks assured -contrast did not result in loss of "clarity".
* strong -highlights not necessary once exposure dropped, and minimizing it kept photo looking "bright", despite reduced exposure (along with +whites).
* Indeed, all of this left the bride's face too dark, but that's what locals are for - a couple radial gradients and photo looks bright enough all around, with no muddiness.
About me: I'm not a super photographer, so I have to make up for it using Lightroom .
UPDATE #2:
You also asked about shooting - a little fill light (e.g. via flash or whatever else may have been handy, in this case on-axis (e.g. pop-up) would probably have been fine) would have helped and probably eliminated the need to use locals.
Just remember to remove the lens hood before shooting (wider angles) with on-camera flash, or else it casts a nasty shadow (I forget that regularly, so - note to self if not to you...).
Rob
Message was UPDATED (twice) by: Rob Cole -
Buttons appearing Mottled.. Looks ugly.. What am I doing wrong?
Hi all, I've come across an issue with my menus in building a dvd with Encore CS5.. I'm guessing it's something I'm doing wrong and I don't yet know it..
Here's the issue:
I've built all of the menus, no dramas.. Photoshop file is built in 1920 x 1080 dimensions.. No more than 18 links per page as Encore allows.. that's all good..
But the issue is, a lot (most) of the text buttons are coming up with what I'd describe as mottled highlighting colours..
'Selected' buttons show in yellow (I assume this is default as I haven't changed it)
'Clicked/Activated' buttons show in red.. again, I assume this is default..
But yea the problem I'm having does tend to make it a bit ugly..
Is there something I'm doing wrong, and is it an easy fix? (Meaning, please tell me I don't have to build these menus again.. 5 dvds time 6-9 menus each)..
I'm learning as I go with this so it may just be a settings thing which I don't know about, would love to hear from the pros on this one
What I do know is it was shot on a HDV camera 1440 x 1080.. I have had the same issue using 1920 x 1080 footage though so I'm assuming it's not that..
I'm burning onto dual layer dvd due to the size of the project also.. Automatic settings from what I can tell..
Cheers,
Rory O'DonnellHave just been looking at it... and I'm a little confused.. Sorry, this may get frustrating
This is what I see in Encore with my text as buttons:
And then once I've added the square button (to be) in photoshop, this is what the layers look like in Photoshop:
I've saved the photoshop document, which has then updated in Encore.. I then ticked the boxes to make each button later an actual button, and now I see:
This is where I get lost.. I tried deleting the (=1) layer (under ( + ) Button 1, but then I guess I'm not quite understanding what I'm pasting, where I'm pasting it and so forth.. Whatever I did, it didnt end up with my new button linking to the old text button's location.. )
Again, thanks for your patience on this..
Message was edited by: Rory85 -
I turned of iMessage and now I want it back on and it's not working, I have changed my password and now I don't know what to do. Is there something obvious I am doing wrong? I have done this on both of my iPads and it hasn't let me go back on to iMessage on either of them.
iCloud System Status
Current
iCloud: iMessage - Users Affected: Some
11/18/2012 13:34 PSTUsers are unable to use iMessage. Normal service will be restored ASAP.
iCloud: FaceTime - Users Affected: Some
11/18/2012 13:33 PSTUsers may be unable to place FaceTime calls. Normal service will be restored ASAP.
http://www.apple.com/support/icloud/systemstatus/ -
I have an I Pod Nano and would get messages to update my software. In my I Tunes I have 1,900 songs but after the updates it will only sync 933 songs. My current software version is 1.0.2. What am I doing wrong or is it something in the software. I have not done anything different in my I Tunes and all songs are checked. Could someone please help or advise me what to do?
Thank you Gail, but not to be ignorant but can I send you a print screen on what I am looking at. I will try am explain what I see: I hooked up my I Pod Clicked on Music checked Sync Music 1909 Songs select Playlist, Artists, albums, and genres checked Include music videos Playlists checked 50's Music checked 70's Music checked 80's Music checked 90's Music checked 2000 Music checked 2010 Music These are songs that I downloaded onto my I Tunes. I bought me a new computer but when my data was transferred from old computer to new computer a lot of my songs on my hard drive were lost, but they were able to save all my songs on I tunes. My I Pod is still connected Clicked on "On this Ipod" Music 938 Songs 2.2 days So my question to you is if I have 1,909 songs on my ITunes how come only 938 transferred to my IPod. I checked my IPod and it shows only 938 songs transferred. This did not happen before until I Tunes asked me if I wanted to update to a newer version. Last month I did have all my 1,909 songs on my I Pod. I hope this explains what I am asking
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I can't seem to change the slide duration in iMovie. It's set to 4.0 automatically. I change it to 3.0. The program resets it to 6.5 or something I never intended. What am I doing wrong?
To Contact iTunes Customer Service and request assistance
Use this Link > Apple Support iTunes Store Contact -
I am using Bose AE2 headphones. The music quality is far superior when I listed on a PC than on the isphone5. Also, the volume is also considerably less. Is it something that I am doing wrong.
There are quite a few possibilities.
The quality difference may simply be the lower volume. Hearing is not linear with volume.
How much power do the headphones require? Possibly your computer can provide greater power output than the iPhone.
Some Bose headphones have a volume compensation switch somewhere. On my QC3 its on the adapter plug at the headphone end. You have to unplug it from the headphones to find it.
Do you have volume limits enabled in the iPhone settings/Music?
Are the equalization settings the same on your computer and your iPhone?
Do you have Sound Check enabled on music that is synced to the iPhone?
Have you checked "Convert higher bit rate songs..." in iTunes on your computer? -
I followed everything I need to do to enable my Apple ID account multiple times. Yet I still am not able to purchase anything. Not even with apple credits I have already stored in my account. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong?
What happens when you try to buy something ? If you are still getting the disabled message then since resetting your password have you logged out of your account on your device (by tapping on your id in Settings > iTunes & App Store) or computer's iTunes (Store > Sign Out menu option) and then logged back in so as to 'refresh' the account on it ?
If that doesn't fix it then you might need to contact iTunes Support : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page -
Am I tagging my music wrong or is this something the iPad does?
iPad users... am I tagging my music in iTunes incorrectly, or do you notice this too?
In the iPod app, when you view all your music by Albums and flip it to reveal the track listing, some albums list the release date (for example, April 10, 2008), while other albums only list the release year (2008).
I don't see any way to change or edit this in iTunes... Go to your Albums on your iPad and see if you notice the exact same thing... Some albums have the exact date, and some only have the year.
Is it like this for anybody else? Just wondering what I'm doing wrong, or if it's all iPads. If you could check your albums on your iPad for me, and let me know, I'd appreciate it.I suspect your iPad is merely revealing more detail than is shown in iTunes. It wouldn't be the first time that iTunes & an Apple device handled the same data in different ways. At present there is no way to enter anything other than a Year via the iTunes *Get Info.* dialog, however other tagging software can store a full date (and probably time too) in the *Release Date* field. Perhaps the tracks with full dates were ripped with something other than iTunes, or bought from a different online store.
tt2 -
I purchased an album on ITunes store, while the items downloaded to my phone, it didn't download to my mac. Some of the songs downloaded but not the majority, when I try to download the songs, it gives me an error 8003 Unknown error occured. What am I doing wrong? If I can't download this album, how do I get a credit??
Hello mercdw,
Once the music has been downloaded to your iPhone, you can transfer purchases from your device to iTunes.
iTunes Store: Transferring purchases from your iOS device or iPod to a computer
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848
Alternatively, the following article provides further information regarding this error and steps that can help resolve the issue.
"Error -50," "-5000," "8003," "8008," or "-42023"
These alerts occur due to timeouts or conflicts trying to write a file during download.
If you encounter this issue while accessing iTunes Store:
See iTunes 9: "One Moment Please" or "Error (-50)" message when accessing iTunes Store
If you encounter this issue while while downloading something from the iTunes Store:
Delete your iTunes Downloads folder, located in:
Mac OS X: ~/Music/iTunes/iTunes Media/Downloads Note: "iTunes Media" may appear as "iTunes Music. Also, the tilde (~) refers to your Home directory.
Windows Vista: \Users\username\Music\iTunes\iTunes Media\Downloads\
Windows 7: \Users\username\My Music\iTunes\iTunes Media\Downloads\
Windows XP: \Documents and Settings\username\My Documents\My Music\iTunes\iTunes Media\Downloads\
After locating your iTunes Downloads folder:
Quit iTunes.
Delete the Downloads folder on your computer.
Open iTunes.
Choose Store > Check for Available Downloads.
Enter your account name and password.
If you encounter this issue while while downloading Digital Copies using Windows:
Use MSCONFIG (directions for Windows XP and Windows Vista/Windows 7) to disable conflicting software.
If using MSCONFIG steps resolves the issue, you may want to use the System Configuration Utility to turn on the third-party System Services and Startup Items one at a time (restarting your computer after turning on the item or items) to identify which System Service or Startup Item is causing the conflict.
You can turn all of them back on by selecting the Normal Startup option under the General tab of the System Configuration Utility window, but please note that this may cause the issue to reoccur.
If you are able to isolate the issue to a particular third-party software, you may wish to contact them to let them know of the conflict.
iTunes: Advanced iTunes Store troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3297
Cheers,
Allen
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