HomeHub 5 and WiFi
I've noticed that the HH5 still configures the wifi, even if it is disabled.
23:18:09, 01 Feb.
(421637.500000) WiFi auto selected channel 1
23:18:09, 01 Feb.
(421637.500000) 1-104::2-105::3-105::4-104::5-106::6-106::7-106::8-106::9-106
23:18:07, 01 Feb.
(421635.490000) Rescan, Reason: 'Interference Avoidance'
19:10:38, 29 Jan.
(147587.120000) WiFi auto selected channel 1
19:10:38, 29 Jan.
(147587.120000) 1-104::2-105::3-105::4-104::5-106::6-106::7-106::8-106::9-106
19:10:36, 29 Jan.
(147585.180000) Rescan, Reason: 'Interference Avoidance'
02:11:36, 28 Jan.
( 44.880000) WiFi auto selected channel 36
02:11:36, 28 Jan.
( 44.880000)
02:11:36, 28 Jan.
( 44.880000) WiFi auto selected channel 1
02:11:36, 28 Jan.
( 44.880000)
Has anyone else noticed this
Had exact same problem for the last few weeks after upgrading to HH5. My laptop would drop off the 5ghz connection, whilst everything else (connected to 2.4) remained fine and dandy. The only way I could reconnect would be to disconnect, connect to a different signal, then reconnect to my original 5ghz signal. If I ran diagnostics along the way it would either report that it couldn't find any error, ot that the DNS server wasn't responding. I split the two signals apart, identifying each one with a different SSID and password.
Did a LOT of digging, and eventually thought it might be something to do with the power management setting on my wireless card, which was selected to on. Selected it off and it at least made the disconnects less frequent. I then went through the advanced settings on the card and deselected anything that would allow the adapter to be turned off by the laptop, which also appeared to help, but not elimnate the issue completely.
I got in touch with BT online help, who rather curiously asked that I change my broadcast signal to channel 11. When I challenged that with the fact I had a 5ghz issue, they requested I change the channel to 44, reboot and monitor, which I have been doing. The problem hasn't completely disappeared, dropping off twice today in quick succession, but since then have had no issues whatsoever. I asked 'Help' why I was doing this, and he told me to de-conflict with other signals. I responded that there were no other signals, but he asked me to do it anyway. Curiously, when I asked what the next steps were if this didn't work, he responded by asking if I wanted to downgrade to a HH4?
I have read that if I set the IP/DNS manually against the wireless adapter then this will help - which will be my next step.
Similar Messages
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Lenovo Yoga 2 13, Kali Linux 1.0.7, Ubuntu 14.04, Windows 8.1 install, config, and wifi fix.
Lenovo Yoga 2 13, Kali Linux 1.0.7, Ubuntu 14.04, Windows 8.1 install, config, and wifi fix.
I wanted to share an experience with everyone I hope will help others avoid what I have gone through the past 3 days. I bought a Yoga 11s that I loved but had some issues with the wireless, Lenovo being awesome replaced it with a Yoga 2 13. I love this laptop but ran into some issues with Linux install/wireless, which I wanted to show how to resolve in one place. Hopefully this will help someone else get through this quicker
I am going to try and write this for someone with little Linux experience, if I miss the mark please let me know and I will clarify the best I can.
For work I need Windows 8.1 and Kali Linux, while for home I prefer Ubuntu.
My Yoga 2 13:
I5 1.6 ghz
8 GB ram
256 GB SSD
ORANGE!
My requirements:
I need Windows
I need Kali Linux (livecd, even with persistent mode was not an option as it would not save the wireless fix or system updates) – I would also like this on a USB drive and not the internal SSD
I would like Ubuntu
Needed to do this:
1. 2 USB thumb drives (at least 8gb in size each) I used 2 Leef Supra 32GB drives. They are my favorite right now and are only about $27 at amazon.
2. Phone that can USB Tether or a USB Ethernet card (External USB wireless will show as "Hardware Locked"). Again you can pick one up for sub $10 if you need the USB Ethernet route. I used my Galaxy S5, you will need to download 200-300 mb of items through this so make sure you have the data if you go that route.
3. You may be able to get a USB wifi card to work if you do the following after boot. This only worked once for me.
a.Type ‘sudo rmmod iwlmvm’
b.Type ‘sudo rmmod iwlwifi’
4. ISOs of Ubuntu and Kali Linux (I used Ubuntu 14.04 and Kali Linux 1.0.7)
5. Software to unzip the ISOs. I recommend 7-ZIP and will be referencing this in this guide.
6. I will include the EFI boot files and the WiFi fix files if I can attach. Otherwise I will provide a link to them.
Link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
Recommended (these are just in case you corrupt something making your system not see any OS
1. I would call Lenovo beforehand and get a set of recover disks (this will take 2-3 days)
2. In the meantime a USB Windows 8.1 or 8 ISO (the repair feature may save you)
*Note: At many points in this guide I detail steps and commands. Please double check that you understand the step before proceeding. There are multiple points where a mistyped command or clicking the wrong option will cause your entire system to fail and you will need to reformat the entire drive and start over. This also will make One Touch recovery not work. Proceed with caution.*
I did not need to disable ‘secure boot’ to do this, but keep in mind that you may need to.
Steps:
First let’s go through the installs, and then we will go through grub config and wireless fix
1. In Windows scroll to computer and right click, select manage.
2. Go to “Disk Management”
3. Select the main HDD (notice Lenovo puts a stupid number of partitions on here)
a. I deleted the D: drive on here, if you do this make sure to copy the drives over to your main C: drive. You will want to run each of the installers and repair the drivers after.
4. I used the space from the D: drive and pulled a little more creating a 50 GB partition for Ubuntu and my swap file
a. You can also add more space by right clicking your C drive and selecting shrink
b. Do not format the partitioned data as this will make identifying it later much easier.
5. Open a command line
a. Swipe from the right of the screen and select search
b. Type ‘cmd’
c. right click and select ‘run as admin’
6. For Ubuntu: Type ‘diskpart’ into the command line
a. type ‘list disk’
i. You should see 2-3 disks depending on if you have one or both usb drives in the laptop at the time. I would suggest only doing 1 at a time so you don’t lose track.
b. type ‘select disk $’ (Replace the $ with the number of the drive)
c. ***** Before proceeding make sure you have the correct drive selected or you can ruin your Windows install and Lenovo one touch recovery will not fix it since we have changed the partitions *****
d. type ‘clean’
e. type ‘create partition primary’
f. type ‘active’
g. type ‘format fs=fat32 quick’
h. type ‘assign’
i. type ‘exit’
6. For Kali Linux: Type ‘diskpart’ into the command line
a. type ‘list disk’
i. You should see 2-3 disks depending on if you have one or both usb drives in the laptop at the time. I would suggest only doing 1 at a time so you don’t lose track.
b. type ‘select disk $’ (Replace the $ with the number of the drive)
c. ***** Before proceeding make sure you have the correct drive selected or you can ruin your Windows install and Lenovo one touch recovery will not fix it since we have changed the partitions *****
d. type ‘clean’
e. type ‘create partition primary size= 3272
f. type ‘active’
g. type ‘format fs=fat32 quick’
h. type ‘assign’
i. type ‘exit’
j. By doing this we can maintain a portion of this drive as the install CD and still have linux install/ liveCD if we need to run it on another machine.
7. At this point the drive is ready to have the contents of the ISO copied over.
8. Right click the ISO and select 7-zip then ‘zip to /’ This should unzip the ISO to the location of the ISO into a folder named exactly the same as the ISO.
9. Once this is done for Ubuntu ISO it is done
10. Kali requires a little bit more to be ready
a. Kali will need some files added for EFI boot. --$--
i. Thanks to: https://forums.kali.org/showthread.php?271-How-to-EFI-install-Kali-Linux
ii. EFI files are located within the wifi fix folder https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
11. Now let’s start with Ubuntu
Ubuntu install
1. Place USB drive into the laptop and press the “Lenovo boot” button next to the power button
2. Select ‘Boot Menu’
3. Select ‘EFI USB Device (Name of drive)’ Mine stated Leef Supra
4. Select ‘install Ubuntu’
5. Go through the Ubuntu install until you get to select the install drive
6. Once you get to the install portion it will ask you to select from one of 4 options. Select ‘Manually select partition’
7. Select the “Free Space” where we opened up some of the drive
8. You will need to create 2 partitions, I usually create the swap partition at the end of the drive
a. First I create the swap
i. Set at the end of the drive
ii. Set size to 1024 mb
iii. Set type to ‘swap’
b. Second create the ext 4 partition
i. Set to beginning of drive
ii. Set to remainder of the space
iii. Set type to ext4
iv. Set mount point to /
9. Finish the install and boot into Ubuntu
10. You will notice that your wireless is ‘disabled by hardware’ This is fine for the time being and we will worry about this after the kali install. If we fix it now for some reason after installing kali we get the error again and would just need to fix it again.
Kali Linux install
1. Place USB drive into the laptop and press the “Lenovo boot” button next to the power button
2. Select ‘Boot Menu’
3. Select ‘EFI USB Device (Name of drive)’ Mine stated Leef Supra
4. From the grub menu select ‘install kali linux’ both graphical and text work. I much prefer text install
5. You will get a few errors through the install but that is fine
6. The first we see is about network hardware and ‘load missing firmware from removable media?’ – Select ‘no’
7. Then select no ethernet card
8. It will have you name your machine then it will ask you for the root password
a. If you want to just use root *not recommended* place the password here
b. If you wish to use a non-root account then leave these blank and it will ask you for a name, username, and password of the new machine *Very Recommended* - this will also add this user to the sudoers file
9. It will then ask you to ‘partition disks’
10. Select manual
11. Now here is where it can get a little confusing so read twice click once
12. Select the USB drive from this list
13. Mine shows up under (sdb) – Leef Supra
a. It could be sdc, sdd, sde, etc… depending on how many drives you have plugged in.
14. You should see one primary drive that is 3gb or so that is formatted as FAT32. – DO NOT TOUCH THIS PARTITION!
15. You should see the remainder of this drive as ‘FREE SPACE’ select that
16. Create a partition at the end at size 1024mb and swap
17. Then create another one for the remainder of the drive and set it to ext4 with mountpoint of /
18. Continue through the install after you should see an error warning you that ‘you may not be able to boot’ that is fine, select continue
19. Then select from the menu of all the options ‘continue without bootloader’
20. It should finish up then reboot on its own.First setup/boot/fix grub
1. You should be able to boot up into GRUB2 menu now.
2. You may not see kali linux in this menu (make sure you have your towel and don’t panic!)
3. Boot into Ubuntu
4. Once you log in you should see that you still cannot use wireless due to being locked by hardware
5. This is expected
6. Let’s fix grub then we will come back to fixing wireless
7. Plug in your device to connect to the internet (USB Tethering or USB Ethernet)
8. Once you verify that you now have an internet connection run the following from terminal
a. ‘sudo add-apt-repository ppa:danielrichter2007/grub-customizer’
b. ‘sudo apt-get update’
c. ‘sudo apt-get install grub-customizer’
9. You can also edit the grub.cfg manually if you know what you are doing… I did not
10. Open grub customizer
11. It should auto populate and you should see ‘debian (kali linux)’ somewhere in the list
12. It should be mounted to /dev/sdb2 or /dev/sdc2 depending on how many devices you have
13. At this point go ahead and save
14. Reboot and test that you can get into each OS
15. This is where my inexperience got me. I spent 2 of my days so I am including this error: If when you boot into Kali you get an error somewhere that says ‘/bin/sh: can’t access tty: job control turned off’ look above it for an error that looks similar to ‘ALERT! /dev/sdc2 does not exist. Dropping to a shell!!’
a. That error is due to the mount point being incorrect in grub, reboot and from within grub highlight the kali boot. Press ‘e’ then towards the bottom you should see ‘root=/dev/sdc2’ change this to ‘root=/dev/sdb2’ again the number doesn’t matter just make sure it stays the same.
b. Press F10
c. If this boots fine then you will need to go back and fix the grub.cfg or load into Ubuntu and open grub customizer again, it should fix this
16. Now you have 3 working OS on the machine with one being on a USB! Congrats!
17. You can remove the USB with no worry of screwing up your install, but you will not be able to boot into Kali Linux until you replace it. I would suggest only removing it and replacing it while the machine is powered off, but that’s just me.
Fix Wireless
Now is the time to do what probably ¾ of you came here for. FIX THE DANG WIRELESS. This is a huge problem from Lenovo’s side that I hope they realize how important Linux is and will fix. I won’t hold my breath though.
Log into Ubuntu : This is well documented in the following forum post on page 3 by user Haohe:
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2215044&page=3
His has you download quite a large file, mine should be much smaller.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
1. Download the attached package with the fix.
2. Connect your USB internet device (tether or ethernet)
3. Place the packages somewhere easy to access, in this example I will place them under ~/Desktop/WiFiFix
4. Type ‘cd ~/Desktop/WiFiFix/’
5. Now we need to prep the tools we need.
6. Type ‘sudo apt-get update’ – we did this before, but you know, just in case
7. Type ‘sudo apt-get install linux-headers-`uname –r`’ Note around uname-r they are the ` symbol not the ‘ this is located just above the tab on the same key as ~.
8. Type ‘make’
9. Type ‘sudo cp /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/ideapad-laptop.ko ~/ideapad-laptop.ko.backup’
10. Type ‘sudo cp ~/Desktop/WiFiFix/ideapad-laptop.ko /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/’
11. Type ‘sudo modprobe -r ideapad-laptop’
12. Type ‘sudo modprobe ideapad-laptop’
13. Type ‘sudo rfkill unblock all’
14. Type ‘sudo modprobe -r ideapad-laptop’
15. Type ‘sudo mv ~/ideapad-laptop.ko.backup /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/ideapad-laptop.ko’
16. Next we need to blacklist the ideapad module
17. Type ‘sudo echo 'blacklist ideapad-laptop' > /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
a. The first time I tried this it wouldn’t work. So I did the following
b. ‘sudo touch /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
c. ‘sudo vim /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
d. Enter blacklist ideapad-laptop
e. Exit and save
18. Reboot your Yoga 2 13
19. Boot into kali and see if you have wireless, if you do then you are done. If not we will need to repeat this process with one small little change.
Kali Wifi Fix
1. Copy the sources.list from the package provided
2. Replace /etc/apt/sources.list with the included
3. Some of the file path changes but the process remains the same from here.
Congratulations you now have 3 OSes one portable to other machines and working wifi!
Thank you
SirGed -
Question regarding homehub and Open reach router -...
Hi all,
I had infinity installed earlier this month and am happy with it so far. I do have a few questions regarding the service and hardware though.
I run both my BT openreach router and BT Home hub from the same power socket. The problem is, if I turn the plug on so both the Homehub and Openreach Router start up at the same time, the home hub will never get an Internet connection from the router. To solve this I have to turn the BT home hub on first and leave it for a minute, then start the router up and it all works fine. I'm just curious if this is the norm or do I have some faulty hardware?
Secondly, I appreciate the estimated speed BT quote isn't always accurate, I was quoted 49mbits down but received 38mbits down - Which I was happy with. Recently though it has dropped to 30. I am worried this might continue to drop over time. and as of present I am 20mbits down on the estimate . For the record 30mbits is actually fine and probably more than I would ever need. If I could boost it some how though I would be interested to hear from you.
Thanks, .Just a clarification: the two boxes are the HomeHub (router, black) and the modem (white). The HomeHub has its own power switch, the modem doesn't.
There is something wrong if the HomeHub needs to be turned on before the modem. As others have said, in general best to leave the modem on all the time. You should be able to connect them up in any order, or together. (For example, I recently tripped the mains cutout, and when I restored power the modem and HomeHub went on together and everything was ok).
Check if the router can connect/disconnect from the broadband using the web interface. Leaving the modem and HomeHub on all the time, go to http://192.168.1.254/ on a browser on a connected computer, and see whether the Connect/Disconnect button works. -
**question regarding 3G and wif**.
I have a question regarding 3G and wifi. I have #G activated as well as wifi, when I go to retrieve mail for example I get a pop up asking me if I want to connect to a wifi network…should I have wifi and 3G activated at the same time, and why am I getting the pop up…
ThanksYou can have them on at the same time, but they will not be used at the same time for data. The order of preference for data is WiFi > 3G > EDGE > GPRS. You're getting the pop up, most likely, because you have Settings > Wi-Fi > Ask to Join Networks set to ON. You can set that to OFF, and the iPhone will still join known (i.e. previously used) WiFi networks automatically.
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Dell Venue Pro 11 w/Dock / Unable to concurrently use ethernet and wifi?
Does anyone know why you are unable to use the dock ethernet connection and the tablet's wifi connection at the same time?
I assume this is a limitation of the dock / tablet because if you hook a laptop up you can use the ethernet and wifi at the same time because they have different MAC addresses.
Thanks for any assistance you can provide....Does anyone know why you are unable to use the dock ethernet connection and the tablet's wifi connection at the same time?
I assume this is a limitation of the dock / tablet because if you hook a laptop up you can use the ethernet and wifi at the same time because they have different MAC addresses.
Thanks for any assistance you can provide.... -
Using Remote app on iPhone 5 without a separate internet connection and wifi router.
Hi,
I need to be able to control iTunes within my MacBook Pro remotely. Using my mobile broadband service and wireless router I've been able to get the Remote app to allow my iPhone 5 to do the job nicely through Home Share. So I went and bought a separate WiFi router and tried to do the same thing. Of course when it didn't work, I discovered that I need an internet connection and WiFi network to make the Home Sharing work.
So I got to thinking, can I create a WiFi hotspot using the Personal HotSpot functionality of my iPhone, set up Home Sharing on phone and MacBookPro and then use the Remote app. Ideally this would work as it seems all the key components are in place.
The MacBook Pro accepts the iPhone hotspot as a means of Home Sharing, however the iPhone won't use the personal hotspot to Home Share and I can't connect to the iPhone personal hotspot on the iPhone itself.
Does anyone know how to make this work for me? It would be such as neat solution if I can get it to work - not to mention the potential to save me about $200 (I need to set this model up for two people).
Cheers
KathySame trouble here, iPad 2 with latest OS and remote app, iPod with latest OS and app.
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Poor battery life and WiFi connectivity on iPhone 5s
I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.Puneet_Agg wrote:
I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.
Where exactly did you buy this new 5S? -
i took my phone off the charger and wifi while it was updating and now it wont let me on the phone nor my computer and it just has the apple icon on the screen. how do i get it to finish updating or turn on?
Why would you do that when your phone is updating?
Your phone is in recovery mode If you can't update or restore your iOS device -
I'm trying to update my iOS to 6.0, using iTunes (with my 4s connected via USB and WiFi is on also). I get a message that 'there are purchased items on my iPhone that have not been transferred to my iTunes library. Yet, I can't find those items! Help! There is not error message number just the text message. I've searched for an answer but have found nothing on "transfering items purchased to your iTunes library".
Right click on your device icon on the left pane of iTunes and click on transfer pur....
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It seems like I cannot get GPS only to work on my ipad3 (4g version, but not on an active cell plan, and wifi off). Is there some new requirement in 7.1 or 7.1.1 to have cell and/or wifi enabled for GPS to work? I am testing with MotionX, garmin blueChart mobile, and a GPS monitoring tool. All show no signal. If I turn on cell and wifi, it says I get gps signal, but can't tell if that is from the GPS chip, or just from cell and wifi only (maybe with some gps mixed in)? Any ideas on how to get iPad working with GPS only??
Roger that. Thanks for your time.
System:
Windows 7 64bit
Processor: AMD phenom IIX4 965
RAM: Gskill Ripsaw F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM (2-2GB sticks)
GPU:EVGA Classified Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 Ti 448 core
PSU: Kingwin 1000W laser gold (LZG-1000)
Yes. tried the one ram stick, no go. I have been trying to boot off/install the windows 7 disk but am unable to get to the point where windows starts installing after its gathering information portion of the install. I can get to the disk selection screen of the install with the WD HD on SATA port 2 but then get the "cant install messages" when I try to select the Vertex 3. Yes I can see the Vertex 3 Drive as well as the WD drive at this point. some times I have to hit "scan" a couple of times. -
Let me just say that I didn't get the answer I wanted from contacting apple care and the customer service rep was very rude and gave me what seemed like a short answer just to get me off the line. So here I am hoping that someone can give me a straight answer.
I have an iPhone 4S and I have not had cellular service associated with it for over a year now. It's basically acting as an iPod touch right now.
Yesterday I took a car trip to Boston with my wife and I was playing around with google maps. I had loaded our destination prior to leaving our home so the route information was still loaded. I have my 4s on airplane mode all the time so constantly searching for a signal wouldn't drain my battery. I turn wifi off when I'm not in a hotspot for the same reason as well. So as I was looking at our route info I noticed that the little node that indicates your position was moving along with our corresponding location almost as accurate as any other gps. This concerns me because
1- I have no service on this phone
2- airplane mode is enabled
3- wifi is disabled
Now the even weirder thing is that my son has a nexus tablet. Just strictly wifi. We pulled into a rest stop and conveniently it had free wifi. So I loaded our route info onto his Google device. When we got back on the road I turned wifi off on his tablet and SHOCKER the node was moving along with our position.
I want to know why my iPhone 4S running on iOS 7.0.4 is receiving gps data when all of the supporting features are turned off. As an added concern I would like to know why my sons wifi-only tablet is receiving gps data as well.
What is apple doing with its devices or what is google doing to their devices and/or application software.
Thank you to whoever helps me out with this.Because GPS has nothing to do with WiFi, cellular signals, or data of any sort. GPS is implemented by signals sent by satellites that are received by GPS receivers. The receivers process the information from the GPS satellites and calculate your location. GPS never sends data anywhere; GPS functionality is receive only.
If you have WiFi or cellular data turned on this can improve the accuracy of GPS, because the GPS receiver can then use the known location of cell towers and WiFi networks to refine the GPS location. GPS by itself has an accuracy of 10 meters, or about 34 feet. Using the additional information from WiFi and cellular data this can be brought down to 3 meters (10 feet). This mode is called Augmented GPS, or A-GPS. -
I reset and erased my iphone 4 and now I can`t reinstall it! After I choose a language, region. and wifi, it says Please, try again later or contact customer care. I tried to do with iTunes, and iTunes even sees this iphone, but it`s like blank, there is nothing I can do in iTunes. It uploaded last software for this iPhone 4, but when it tries to do the reserve copy of iphone first, it shows a mistake. And ask to disconnect and connect the device again, which, obviously, doesn`t help.
This usually happens if the phone has been Hacked / Jailbroken / Modified...
Is this the case...?
If so...
Then... Sorry... But...
The discussion of Jailbroken Devices is against the Terms of Use of this Forum.
You will need to look elsewhere.
Unauthorized modification of iOS
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3743 -
I have an iPod touch and wife has a new ipad2. We share one computer. Now, when she downloads an app to her ipad the app also downloads on my iPod touch. How can we stop that?
you should have two separate account
-
I have one iPhone 4s, one iPad 2 and wife's iPhone 4s. yesterday I have updated all with ISO 8 under one apple id, now my problem is that in same WiFi when Any of phone receive phone all the three gazettes ring simultaneously . how to resolve this.
regards
rbvTell your wife to get her own Apple ID. If you do not want continuity/handoff to work with calls, on both devicesgo to Settings==>>FaceTime==>> Turn OFF iPhone cellular calls.
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I inadvertedly must have changed a setting where the apple logo and files and things that used to be in the top left corner of the screen are no longer there as the clock and wifi status and other installed settings used to show up in the top right hand corner of my screen. When I move my mouse to the very top of the screen they drop down but when I move my arrow away from the very top of the screen they both disappear again. So I was wondering how can I get it to revert back to the way it used to be? I hope this isnt confusing.
I tried the zoom thing but it still didnt resolve my issue Im gonna try to clarify my issue a little bit more, before the change, my screen when I would surf the web would have the apple logo and safari and file and edit and view buttons at the top left hand of the screen and the upper right hand screen would have the time and the wifi strength and my name and the spotlight box and a volume control but now they dont show while Im browsing the web unless I take my arrow and move it to the very top of the screen then those boxes will drop down like it used to be but when I take my arrow and move it from the top of the screen it disappears again and ll I get is a back and forward arrow and the url input bar. Anyone else have any ideas of what I did to mess this up?
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Bluethoot and Wifi is not working properly in my apple ipad air
Hello sir,
I m having apple ipad air with serial no: DM*****4HY and i m facing problm with my bluetooth and wifi. Both is not functioning properly. To solve this i have done Factory reset ang setting reset both. But even after doing this my problem of bluetooth and wifi didnt solved.
<Edited by Host>should not post serial # or any other identifying info. Have asked the Hosts to remove.
meanwhile, verify iOS 7.1.2? Is the problem NEW? If so, what has happened recently regarding update/upgrade/new software?
CCC
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Fans Constantly Cycling On and Off
About a week ago the fans on my dual 2.0 G5 running 10.4.8 started cycling on and off. After a few days of this I ran AHT and received the following error: Error Code 2STH/1/2:CPUA AD7417 AD1. I found out this was a possible problem with the logic bo
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What is an alternative to iPhoto?
Hi, I am looking for an free alternative to Iphoto. Can anyone recommend one? Also, before my HD failed a few months back I had Iphoto and now the app store is saying I have to pay 14.99 for it. I dont remember paying for it originally when I purch
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Just purchased the iphone, can't do the "simple" registration.....
I am so frustrated at this point. I already had itunes downloaded on my computer. I tried hooking the phone to the computer and it isn't listed as a "device". I followed all the help articles, which did absolutely nothing (to be honest, I wasn't even