Host of issues including recording, signal loss etc

Please help!!! I'm at a loss here! I am having a number of issues with one particular skybox. It will not record properly, some recordings it says 'This program cannot be inserted into the planner', when it does decide to record, the red light doesn't appear on the skybox, or else the Sky box shuts down and say there is no signal. Things that were supposed to be recorded have failed continuosly. I have done a planner rebuild and system restore (lost EVERY program), and NOTHING works!! When I try to view channels, and press the 'i' button, no program synopsis appears. Rcently, about 2-3 weeks ago, our TV was moved up to the wall and the skybox was moved to a shelf. Does anyone have a picture of what the leads should look like? We have the necessary leads in the box, and a white lead connected from the attic, sky dish, into the skybox, but before the issues happened, it used to be in the TV. I'm at my wits end!!! Please help!

carmel1968 wrote:
The signal says, in order : nothing, nothing, not locked, null, nothing, nothing, not locked, not connected. What can this mean??? From the time during the last post, I messed around and the two cables came out of the metal casing.Your Signal readings above mean that there's no connection with the satellite dish, maybe because your cables have popped out of the F-plugs. If so, make sure the copper braiding is folded back over each cable, then screw or twist the plugs back onto the cables. Some pics here

Similar Messages

(Bug) Google Talk on webOS 2.1 doesn't re-login after signal loss

Device: Palm Pre 2
WebOS version: 2.1.0
Issue: Google Talk does not automatically re-login after signal loss (and sometimes gets into a state that it cannot re-login at all)
Description: Whenever I lose signal (go in the elevator, into tunnels on the subway, etc...) I get logged out of Google Talk. On Palm Pre + with 1.4.5 on ATT i would never have a problem as it would always log me back in automatically as soon as (or shortly after) signal was found again, whether wifi or 3g/edge. But on Palm Pre 2 with webos 2.1, it stays logged off. I can manually set status to Available to re-login, but its really annoying and clearly used to work in the past. Additionally, in certain circumstances I get disconnected and CANNOT manually log back in. I try to set status to Available but nothing happens, no spinner, no nothing. The only way to get this to work again is if I do a restart (or Luna restart). I've notice this happens at my school where 3g connectivity is really poor and frequently I don't have any. Instead I connect to the school's wifi network which sometimes disconnects. After losing connectivity too many times and/or too many login failures, it just stops allowing me to re-login, even manually, until I restart.
This is really annoying and is a regression as it used to work in 1.4.5. Any ideas how to fix it and/or if a fix is being worked on would be greatly appreciated.
More info can be found here: http://forums.precentral.net/webos-discussion/282197-google-talk-webos-2-0-doesnt-re-login-after-sig...
Thanks.
Post relates to: Pre Plus p100una (AT&T)

Yes, this forum is frequented by HP Support personnel, though this is not an offical avenue of support for HP customers. The official avenue of support is calling HP Support on the phone. You can also contact HP here: http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/contact.html

Verizon iPhone having death grip signal loss problems too?

Today I am reading story after story about people having the AT&T death grip signal loss problems on their Veirzon iPhones despite the Verizon phone having a new antenna. Is anyone really having this problem or is it being fabricated to alter sales?

I can understand how possibly covering the antannae with your hand would drop the signal a little bit due to blocking it etc. However, I have watched the youtube video of the person giving evidence that this issue exists with the Vphone and as he was demonstrating it and showing the example, I followed along exactly as he was with my phone and it did not create the same issue at all. I tried several times downloading speed test, calling someone, openeing webpages and just simply could not recreate the issue. Does that mean hes lying? No ,just means i suppose it is not happening to all phones.

In my iPad mini some apps are not seen (voice recorder, calculator, compass etc)

in my iPad mini some apps are not seen (voice recorder, calculator, compass etc)er

Those apps aren't included in iOS on iPads
iPad Mini built-in apps : http://www.apple.com/ipad-mini/built-in-apps/
iPad manual (which has a chapter on each of the built-in apps) : http://support.apple.com/manuals/ipad/

Any noticable signal loss with the DVI-to-video adapter?

Hi, there. Would any of you happen to know whether there's an appreciable signal loss when converting from DVI to, say, composite video via the DVI-to-video adapter? I'd like to hook my MBP up to an HDTV (when I eventually get one), and I'm wondering if going through the adapter would produce a degraded picture for DVDs, compared to a direct digital connection from a DVD player to the TV.
Actually, I'm wondering the same thing about the audio connection. Any loss in audio quality when using an adapter to connect the MBP's mini-jack to an HDTV or receiver?
Thanks much.

ragamoffyn,
While there's no "signal loss," as such, there is a considerable loss in signal quality. However, you're over-thinking this...
HDTVs accept HDMI connections, and your Macbook Pro has a DVI output. The ports are dissimilar, but digital video signal is the same. In other words, you would simply use a DVI-to-HDMI cable. In fact, many HD cable boxes (mine included) still have a DVI port, not an HDMI port. There is no loss of signal or quality.
Really, the only difference between DVI and HDMI is the fact that HDMI transmits both video and digital audio. DVI doesn't do this, so you must resort to transmitting audio separately. Not a problem: use an optical digital cable, which your Macbook Pro will accept (as will most HDTVs). That said, you might be better off connecting the audio portion of your MBP's output to a home entertainment (surround sound??) receiver.
Now, I'm not sure about the "progressive scan" capabilities of the Macbook Pro and DVD Player. You'll have to research that yourself. I can tell you that normal DVDs can be "upconverted" by a progressive scan set-top DVD player, and the result looks absolutely stunning on an HDTV. It's not quite as good as full HD, but it comes pretty close. Also, many newer units are being made with HDMI ports. In other words, the DVD is upconverted, and the result is transmitted over a full HD connection. Best of all, these set-top boxes can be had for under $100.
BTW, the composite video you suggest is simply "standard definition," and not the best SD at that (S-Video is better). Component video (where there are three separate "RCA"-type connectors) is much, much better, but even that doesn't match digital (DVI or HDMI). Also, the DVI-to-HDMI cable you will need can be had at Walmart for around $30. They can also be found at places like Best Buy or CompUSA, but these retailers tend to over-charge for over-blown items (No one needs a "Monster" HDMI cable that costs over $100, and which does no more than the $30 cable from Walmart; digital is digital).
Scott

Periodic signal loss on DCT700 digital adapter

Our kitchen TV is connected to the FiOS ONT via a basic digital adapter (Motorola DCT700/US). On some TV channels, the sound disappears and the picture freezes for up to a few seconds at regular intervals.
The problem affects only channels 11 through 25, as far as I can tell (I didn't try every single one!). It occurs at the top of every minute, at the instant when the on-screen clock display rolls over to the next minute. Sometimes the event lasts for only a second or so, in which case the sound resumes and the picture unfreezes after the interruption. If the signal loss persists for longer, I get a gray screen with a message that "the channel is having technical difficulties" before the program resumes. Either way, it's very annoying.
If I'm watching the same channel via the SD set-top box in the living room, or via either of the CableCards in the TiVo DVR, there is no interruption of sound or picture.
The DCT700 was installed and activated by the Verizon rep as part of my FiOS installation two weeks ago. I don't recall the problem showing up when he performed his final checkup before leaving, but it's possible we chose channels outside the range mentioned above and/or weren't watching the TV during the fairly short time interval during which the problem occurs.
I tried disconnecting the power adapter from the DCT700 for about a minute, but the problem was still present after the DCT700 restarted.

DukeDog wrote:
I pulled the plug and re-plugged all 3 adapters and none of them show a channel number. Very odd. And none of the of the manuals even reference the problem to find out how to correct it.
Do you have any idea why I'm not getting channels like CNN? Am I supposed to be getting channels like CNN?
The "trick" of unplugging should resolve the channel display issue (it only shows up for a short period in the bottom left of the TV screen immediately after changing channels).
As Matcarl said, if you are not getting all the SD channels you are subscribed to you need to contact Verizon as the boxes have apparently not been provisioned correctly.
If a forum member gives an answer you like, give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem.

Third party router signal loss?

I have an iMac G5 and connect wirelessy to the internet with a 2Wire router which is in another room (hooked up to my laptop). For the most part I have no problems (I did have to get rid of a 2.4 GHz phone which was in the same room with the router) but occasionally I get signal loss.
Is it possible that my neighbor is stealing my signal? Or could it be their phone? I don't have baby monitors, satellite dish etc.

Is it possible that my neighbor is stealing my signal?
That wouldn't cause a signal loss.
It could be interference from any device that operates at 2.4 GHz.
Have you tried changing the channel used by your base station? Keep changing the channel until you find one that works or you run out of channels.

Im using iphone 3gs ..but having a lot of problem signal loss...No service...

Hey !!
Im using iphone 3gs from last 7 months..its my 1st exprience with iphone...But sad to say i'm having lot of problem regarding signal loss and NO service...
I refreshed it with new vrsion also...Resets many times...BUt no use...
PLease fix it out...

had the same issue, if you take it to your local apple store they should replace it, or contact your carrier and they can repair the phone. It seems to be an issue mainly with iphone 3gs and o2 if your in the uk.

Signal loss at random was not doing this last month

I have an older iphone and i have had a&tt for a while. i havent ever had signal lost untill recently now it happens all the time without warning. I am now missing important work calls and may have to switch users. any advice would be awesome. nothing seems to have changed and it doesnt happen in the same place and also happens outside.

Hello @Logan253
I’m sorry to hear you’ve been experiencing a loss of signal.
Which version of iPhone are you using? How long have you been experiencing the signal loss?
Have you tried resetting your network settings? Go to Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings
Also, have you tried inserting your AT&T SIM card into another phone to replicate the issue?
If you’ve got no issue when using another AT&T phone, then your problem could be hardware related and the iPhone might need replacement.
Please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns.
Thank you,
Charise

Bumper is only an insulator preventing signal loss not a reception fixer

Many get confused and start complaining about their reception when the bumper is mentioned, and that it doesn't help them.
The bumper is only an insulator, as every other case, some better dielectrics than others.
The bumper will NOT fix your reception problems if you have them. That's why some of those who go out and buy bumpers may not see improvement. Their signal will not change, but their reception will be the same.
The bumper will help ONLY in cases where you have GOOD reception and then lose it as it gets degraded when holding the phone from the line or just plain pick it up and try to use it.
Additionally, those who call for Apple to give out free bumpers should take the above into consideration, as they are not for everyone. Why?
Because A) Many don't need them, and B) They won't help if AT&T or your carrier in your area isn't doing it for you. The bumper is not a signal/network amplifier/helper/fixer. It's just an insulator.
There are some reporting issues and signal differences between a 3Gs and an iPhone 4 in the same area. I have seen that with my 4 and my 3Gs, occasionally, but for the most part they agree, and seem to work as expected for their particular specs. I mention this because there may still be something to fix there, for both, by Apple, and I have seen it mentioned here too. But, it has NOTHING to do with the bumper, and the bumper won't make a difference.
Those are my thoughts. Perhaps they will help some get real answers and not fake hopes that their network problems will be fixed by an insulator. I am just trying to clarify the different areas that are being discussed and are currently being lumped together as one, because they aren't.
Consumer Reports, btw, is ONLY talking about this issue in their recent tests, the signal drop without a bumper issue, not reception problems, not network problems, but the POTENTIAL of dropping a call or having network issues by holding the phone from the line. Nothing more than that! I have more to say on that but, again, I do not want to send mixed messages.

Funny because she has noted on MANY other posts that she got a bumper and never touches the area where there is a problem, agreeing that there is an issue here, and then turns around and says "i don't need a bumper to use my phone."
I think she believes that if you have a car whose steering wheel falls off when use your hands that is a non issue, as you can always use your feet. The fact that the OP points to a thread in which you can pretty much divide people into two categories.
1. Disagree with Zebra entirely
2. Are not having the issue but still sympathise that there is obviously a problem with reception due to touching bare skin to the antenna for some people out there which is rectified by getting a insulating piece of plastic.
Which is what's funny, the OP started one thread, completely lost control of it because the OP is not willing to listen to any reason or sense towards those experiencing the problem so started a new topic hoping to be in control again.
The problem is, the bumper does HELP reception, by stopping your conductive hand touching the metal antenna. The signal goes down when touching the metal antennas over the black divider, this is almost certainly because you are bridging the two antennas, as it can be caused by just a paperclip across the two, or the tip of your finger.
Again, the bumper stops this shorting as it is plastic.
AKA the bumper does prevent signal loss, which allows for BETTER reception.
When you touch this point, signal goes down, and call quality drops (aka the reception is lowerd.) In case your still wondering, becuase we all know she will be, lets consult OXFORD.
Pronunciation:/rɪˈsɛpʃ(ə)n/
noun
1 [mass noun] the action or process of receiving something sent, given , or inflicted:
sensation is not the passive reception of stimuli
2 the process of receiving broadcast signals:
a microchip that will allow parents to block reception of violent programmes
Touching the left part of the iphone causes data to stop being transmitted when in medium to low signal. agree or disagree? That is a loss of reception, please check your definitions.
You with us yet Z?
i feel its my duty to educate you on the wonderful language of English (forget spelling, lets just look at definitions for now shall well
http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/view/entry/men_gb0691620#m_engb0691620

New 3 Iphone4 signal loss May 2011 UK

Hi
I just bought a brand new iPhone4 from 3 in Brighton, UK (Sat May 7th 2011). I had put of buying the handset for some time following stories of signal loss from holding the phone.
I asked the sales rep on Saturday if there are still issues with signal loss on the iPhone 4. I was told the problem had been fixed some time ago.
I have 3 bars of signal on the phone. If I hold the phone with 2 fingers, 1 on either side of the phone, about half way way up the phone (not touching the bottom), my signal drops 3... 2... 1... and then after about 20 seconds. No Service.
If I hold the phone as any right handed person would, bridging the gap in the band, the signal drops rapidly 3,2,1 No Service.
I was in London on Sunday and couldn't make a call without losing the signal. The friend I was with has an iPhone4 on 02 that doesn't seem to suffer the same problem.
I've had a quick look on youtube at videos uploaded by people with the same problem, and it seems my drop in signal is far worse than any on there. All of the video are from last year.
I don't want to use a "bumper", which is why I put off this purchase for so long.
Before I return the phone to 3 and cancel, I just wanted a clear answer to weather the problem has actually been fixed and I have a faulty iPhone4, or weather I have been fed a line by 3 staff?
Many thanks
Mr M

Just got a replacement iPhone4 from 3. Exactly the same issue. Tried using the bumper, which makes no difference. Actually, if I don't touch the phone, I get 3 bars. If I add the bumper and then don't touch it, I get 2 bars. If I then try using it even with the bumper, the signal dissapears too, after about 20 seconds.
Am I going crazy here?
If I hold the phone with the sides, not touching the bottom antenna, I get exactly the same thing.
Am I the problem? My skin conducting too much static electricity somehow?

1.1.1 signal loss

i updated to the new firmware and had a signal loss of 2 bars to somtimes flat line at places where i had none before . took it to apple and they gave me a new one and my new phone is back to 5 bars and strong signals like it was before the update.now the firmware is at 1.0.2 and i am not going to change it unless there is a fix for it .

penna,
you needn't apologise, the previous post was pointless and obnoxious.
I'm having a similar experience to yours. When I got my first iphone, I synced it immediately to the 1.1.1 firmware and for the next 2 weeks had horrible signal reception. It would go from 4 bars to no signal from my lifting the phone to my ear or walking 2 feet in any direction. I had no reception in my home or office. I knew it could not be an issue with ATT's coverage as my previous phone, a treo650 had excellent reception both at home and the office and throughout most of San Francisco.
I took my phone back to the Apple store earlier this week and the tech agreed to give me a replacement. To my surprise, the phone had the 1.0.2 firmware and 03.14.08G modem firmware. The tech offered to update the firmware for me but I declined. This phone has had nothing less than 4 bars since I got the phone, so it is possible my problems with the first phone was due to the firmware.
This weekend I will sync this phone (its a pain not having any contacts or calendar entries) and install the 1.1.1 firmware and if I again have poor signal reception, then I'll know the problem was with the firmware (as opposed to a hardware issue with my previous phone).
Stay tuned, I'll post again this weekend.
regards, William

MSI P45 Neo3-FR and MSI HD4850 signal loss

My computer:
MSI P45 Neo3-FR
MSI HD4850
E8400 E0
2x2Gb DDR2 800MHz (MDT)
Samsung F1 320Gb
Toughpower Qfan 500W PSU
Vista 64-bit
The problem:
The motherboard came with BIOS version 1.0 which didn't support the E8400 E0. To fix that I had to update to version 1.3, which solved the processor issue but now the graphics card loses the signal at random while playing just about any game and after restarting the computer sometimes keeps on rebooting a couple of times. I read at the german tomshardware forum of someone with a similar problem that solved the problem by using BIOS version 1.2 but that isn't really an option for me since it doesn't support my processor. So any ideas?

Quote from: Frankenputer on 20-August-08, 21:52:14
Your PSU is only capable of 18A on 12V1 and 12V2, and only 16A on 12V3. But, that doesn't mean that the rails can deliver all those amps at the same time, it's just the max. Try to borrow a better PSU, preferably a powerful single +12V rail one, or get one as yours is not that great.
A good one to get would be the Corsair VX 550 or the TX 650 Corsair. Both are quiet and have powerful single +12V lines.
According to the ati webpage the Toughpower Qfan 500W is on the supported list for HD4850/70 though. One strange thing I just noticed is that 3dmark06 and furmark seem to run stable but gaming causes random signal losses. Of course it might also be a driver issue or something else(using catalyst 8.7 with Catalyst Control Center).
edit: Just noticed there is a new bios v1.4 available so I'll try that out and report back.
edit2: Ok, 1.4 was a disaster and wouldn't even let me reinstall Vista without bluescreens so now I'm trying out 1.2 and it seems to be working ok so far although it doesn't officially support my cpu.

How to create report which includes records of current month and last 7 days of previous month.

Hi Experts,
I need to create a report which includes records of current month and last 7 days of previous month.
I will get records of current month by this formula :- month({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME})=month(currentdate)
Please tell me how to add the records of last 7 days of previous Month for the same report.
Thanks in Advance.

Hi Ajay,
If you have more than a year data in your database then your formula will return wrong results. ie. If your data consist of 2012,2013,2014 data then below formula will return all 8th month data irrespective of year. So, you need to check year also here
month({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME})=month(currentdate) and
Year({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME})=Year(currentdate)
Now add Abhilash second statement in OR so, your formula should look like :
(month({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME})=month(currentdate) and
Year({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME})=Year(currentdate))
OR
Date({PROBSUMMARYM1.OPEN_TIME}) IN [DateAdd('d',-7,Maximum(LastFullMonth)), Maximum(LastFullMonth)
-Sastry

I have an iPad mini and an iPad 2. I can print email to my HP 6510 from the mini, but NOT from the iPad 2. Both are on the same wi-fi network. I have tried everything I can do including unplugging everything, restarting, etc. Can anyone help?

I have an iPad mini and an iPad 2. I can print email to my HP 6510 from the mini, but NOT from the iPad 2. Both are on the same wi-fi network. I have tried everything I can do including unplugging everything, restarting, etc. Can anyone help?

Thanks so much! My grandaughters played games on the iPad over Xmas and one of their moms said shed restricted their access! Guess they forgot to enable again. Thank you again! Karla

Host of issues including recording, signal loss etc

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