How can I lock in numbers for use in a spreadsheet ap?

How can I lock in numbers on my Ipad for use in a spreadsheet?

There is a forum that deals exclusively with "Numbers" discussions:
https://discussions.apple.com/community/iwork/numbers?view=discussions

Similar Messages

I use a French bluetooth keyboard how do i lock the numbers for doing calculations? Does anybody know? i.e. the numbers are above the top row of keys and you have to use the shift key to access them. You can't use the cap lock key to lock the numbers.

How do I lock the numbers on a French keyboard if I'm using a small blue tooth keyboard with no number pad?

How do I lock the numbers on a French keyboard if I'm using a small blue tooth keyboard with no number pad?

How can I lock the file in use

Dear All, I transfer the large text file to Solaris 10 server and copy the this file with transfer not success to another path. but I can open the file with end of file. How can I lock the file with transfer not successfully.

Locking on UNIX is cooperative, not manditory. That means that all applications need to check for the lock explicitly and then not use the file if the lock exists.
But if something is accessing the file beyond your control, locking isn't going to prevent it.
If you do control all the access points, then take a look at lockf or flock functions.
Darren

How can one store hd video for use with ipad and apple tv?

I'm looking for solutions. I don't have a computer. Not interested in renting what i really like or collecting blu rays.
Buy enough hd video films from the store and the iPad runs out of hard drive. I could buy more storage from the iCloud. What else could I do? The new apple tvs don't have a hard drive for storage. Hypershop.com has a hyperdrive external drive for the iPad, but 720P, is that full HD? They also have a new kickstarter funded product cloudFTP which connects hard drives etc to the iPad wirelessly. Not sure if this would work ok.
Any other ideas?

There are some cables you can use. Depends on what model iPad you have and what interface is on the projector. You could also get a router to take with you and set up your wifi connection. There's some portable routers.
You can connect via a cable or wireless using an Apple TV.
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Guide/a/How-To-Connect-Your-Ipad-To-Your-Tv.htmhttp://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Guide/a/How-To-Connect-Your-Ipad-To-Your-Tv.htm
Connect an iPad to a Television or Projector
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/how-to-connect-ipad-to-tv-te levision-projector.htmlhttp://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/how-to-connect-ipad-to-tv-te levision-projector.html
Connecting iPad iPhone or iPod to TV or Projector
http://www.disabled-world.com/assistivedevices/computer/ipad-tv.phphttp://www.disabled-world.com/assistivedevices/computer/ipad-tv.php
iPad Accessories: Connections for a TV or Projector
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/ipad-accessories-connections-for-a-tv-or-p rojector.htmlhttp://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/ipad-accessories-connections-for-a-tv-or-p rojector.html
You may be interested in AirPlay on the Apple TV:
http://www.apple.com/airplay/http://www.apple.com/airplay/
http://www.apple.com/airplay/http://www.apple.com/airplay/
Alternately, there are Apple Digital AV Adapters for hardwired connections:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4108http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4108
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4108http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4108
Portable routers http://compnetworking.about.com/od/routers/tp/travel_routers.htm
 Cheers, Tom

How can I convert .mov files for use with other apps?

When loading movies taken on a friend's digital camera to my PC, the video files were saved as Quicktime .mov files. I am now unable to pull those files into any other software program (I want to put them onto a CD or DVD and play on external players.) How can I convert .mov files to a .wmv or .avi or mpeg?
Thanks - J
RS720G Windows XP

Kodak Digital Camera QuickTime MOV Problems
After battling a number of serious problems with the videos taken by my new Kodak Digital Camera, I decided to write up this page so that anyone searching the web would find out the true answers without as much grief!
I’ve also made some other comments about my experience with the camera, in case anyone was considering buying a Kodak camera in the near future.
I bought the camera just before Christmas 2004 in the US. At the time of writing, it is a pretty good model for domestic use—about 5.2 megapixels, costing about US$400 (or AU$600 back here in Australia). From a company as reputable as Kodak, I expected no problems.
The first disappointing thing was that the spring inside the spring-loaded battery clip, inside the camera, came loose within days. It proved impossible to reattach it without completely dismantling the camera, which (despite my engineering qualifications) I was not willing to do. This would usually have been a warranty item, but Kodak’s warranty does not extend to other countries. I’ve since had to jam cardboard in to keep the battery clip engaged, and have taped the battery bay shut to avoid it opening accidentally when taking the camera out of the case. This works fine with the docking station (an extra AU$100!), but it means I can no longer charge the battery without the docking station (since you need to take it out to charge it). I was not impressed!
The camera takes good photos, and I have no complaint with that. The controls and camera menus are well-designed. The large display is excellent.
The EasyShare software is not as easy to use as it looks, has a habit of crashing, has a web update program that is always running in the background of Windows, and transferring images is nowhere as easy or quick as it should be. I’ve now uninstalled it completely, and simply copy the photos directly from the device. (If the camera memory is nearly full, and you just want to transfer the last few photos, then it’s impossible to use the EasyShare software to browse the camera’s photos without it actually downloading the whole lot through the USB cable—and it takes forever! Copying from the device directly doesn’t hit this bug.)
The capability to take video using the camera was a great attraction when I selected it, and, if it worked properly, it would make it quite a handy little camcorder in its own right. With a 512 MB memory card in it, over an hour of video can be recorded at Video-CD quality (320 x 240 24fps video, 8 kHz audio). It’s not full digital video, but it would still be a pretty good feature for a US$400 camera. If it worked.
The first disappointing thing about taking videos is that the optical zoom cannot be adjusted while the camera is recording. It can only be adjusted between video sequences. I don’t know why this restriction was made in the design.
The real problems, however, start when you try to do anything with the video clips captured by the camera. Kodak has chosen to capture the videos in QuickTime format. This is fine—QuickTime is, technically, excellent—except that there is no simple way to convert QuickTime MOV files to AVI or MPEG or VCD. The Kodak software comes with a QuickTime player, so you can see the video clips on the computer you installed the software on—and they look good. Problem is that you can’t just dump those MOV files onto your Video-CD creator (it will usually want AVI or MPEG files).
It takes some time to realise that Kodak have not even bothered to include any software with the camera that can convert these MOV files to a more useful format. This is a serious PR blunder, and anyone bitten by this is unlikely to go near the Kodak brand ever again.
After some web searching, owners of these cameras generally find that the best (only?) freeware solution to convert MOV to AVI is Bink and Smacker’s RADtools program.
RADtools is amazingly powerful for the price (i.e. free), but it hits two fundamental problems with Kodak Digital Camera MOV video files, that are the fault of the Kodak camera, not RADtools. (I know this because every other MOV converter hits the same problems—except one, as you will see below.)
The first problem is that the sound cannot be converted properly. When you convert any Kodak MOV files, there is an “aliasing” of the sound at the upper frequencies. This is a technical description—you get a whispery, tinny, C3PO type of echo to everything. It really destroys the quality of the video clips (especially bad when I am trying to capture priceless memories of my 4- and 7-year-old sons—I don’t want their voices destroyed for all time).
Every conversion program I tried ended up with the same audio problem. I concluded that it is something strange in the way the Kodak cameras store the MOV files.
Strangely enough, I noticed that the QuickTime player didn’t distort the audio like this. The audio sounds just fine through QuickTime. More on this shortly.
The second, more serious problem is that RADtools could not properly convert some of the video clips at all. (This problem only affected less than 10% of the clips I originally filmed, but most of those clips were very short—less than 20 seconds. It seems that the probability of this problem gets worse, the longer the clip.) RADtools would misreport the number of frames in the clip, and would stretch out a small number of frames of video (in slow motion) to match the length of the audio.
Again, I confirmed that this is a property of some of the MOV files stored by the camera. Other conversion tools also had problems with the same MOV clips.
After more angst, I found a number of websites in which frustrated owners of these Kodak cameras have reported the exact same problems.
It was only then that I discovered that QuickTime itself can convert MOV files to AVI. Believe it or not, it’s built into the QuickTime Player that Kodak supplies, or that you can download free from apple.com. The problem is that you can’t use it unless you pay Apple to upgrade to QuickTime Pro.
After realising that this would probably be the only way to get decent audio for these clips, I paid the AU$59 to Apple Australia to get the licence key that enables the extra “Pro” menu options in QuickTime.
Sure enough, you can “Export” any MOV file to a number of formats, including AVI. And guess what? The audio comes out fine!
So, the first piece of advice I can give is: pay Apple the US$29 (or whatever amount it is in your country) to upgrade QuickTime to QuickTime Pro.
From here, however, there are still a few snags to untangle.
The first is that the default settings for Exporting to AVI don’t give a great result. It defaults to the Cinepak codec, medium quality. This looks terrible compared to the original QuickTime movie. Even on maximum quality, that codec just doesn’t give good results.
I finally found that the best option is to use the Intel Indeo Video 4.4 codec, set on maximum quality. This creates AVI files that are 10 to 20 times larger than the original MOV files, but the quality is there. If (like me) you only want the AVI files so you can dump them into your Video-CD program, then you want to keep the quality as high as possible in this first step. The extra hard disk space is not really a concern. When your VCD program converts the AVI files to MPEG, it will compress them to the usual VCD size.
Now for the biggest snag: those problem MOV files are still a problem, even for QuickTime Pro. Unbelievably, these Kodak cameras are spitting out MOV files which have some sort of technical flaw in their data specifications. QuickTime is able to play them back fine—and that seems to be all that the Kodak engineers really checked. However, if QuickTime Pro tries to export them, then when the progress bar gets to the end, it never finishes. It just keeps going. If you check the output folder with Explorer, and keep hitting F5 to update the file listing, you can see the file getting bigger, and bigger, and bigger. It never stops.
That this happens even for QuickTime itself (the native format for these files) confirms that the problem is with the software built into these Kodak cameras. It would be nice it they issued a patch or a fix. I couldn’t find one.
Fortunately, there is a “workaround” for this problem. I found it when trolling the net trying to find solutions to all these problems. The workaround is to use QuickTime Pro’s cut and paste facility. Open the problem MOV file, then press Ctrl-A (the standard key combination for “select all”—in this case it selects the entire film clip, as you can see by the grey selection of frames at the bottom of the player). Then hit Ctrl-C (i.e. copy, which in this case copies all the frames, but not the incorrect data structure in the original MOV file). Now hit Ctrl-N (i.e. new, in this case a new MOV file or player). In this new player, press Ctrl-V (i.e. paste). Now you have a new version of the MOV file with the bad data structure exorcised. You can save this under a new name, but make sure you specify “Make movie self-contained”—otherwise, it will simply be a link to the original (bad) MOV file, which you are probably going to delete once you save the exorcised version. (You also cannot overwrite the original file, because it needs to access that to make the “self-contained” movie. You need to give it a slightly different name, save it “self-contained”, then delete the original and rename the new copy back to what you wanted it to be. A pain, I agree, but at least the **** thing works—finally!)
The exorcised MOV file can now be used to Export to AVI format. (I also keep all the MOV files on a separate CD, in case I want to reconvert them to a different format in the future. I figure it’s better keeping the exorcised ones than the haunted ones.)
So I hope that all this answers a few of your questions. No, you weren’t being incredibly stupid.

How can I set up iPad for use as a customer sales tool?

I want to use my new iPad for personal and business. For my business I want to hand to a customer as a self-driven presentation on my business created In Keynote or some similar program. But I'd like to lock all personal content so the customer can only explore my business content and not access personal contacts, music, etc. Can this be done? Recommendations on apps and set-up are appreciated.

Can't be done. All the customer has to do is press the home button and they're able to access all your apps.
You either need different iPads for different purposes, or mount it in a display cabinet that blocks the home button.

How can I change file encoding for use in Itunes?

For instance, aiff to apple lossles files, or mp3 to apple lossless, or any other conversion. And which is best?

I don't really understand some of the settings that you posted. Stereo and joint stereo are two different things, so you can't encode as both at the same time. For modern MP3 compression, joint stereo is usually preferred, because it allows the encoder to use fewer bits in encoding the stereo information, and it doesn't result in any perceptual losses in stereo imaging.
48.000 kHz is pointless unless you are ripping from source material that is actually at that sample rate. Redbook-standard CD audio is at 44.100 kHz, so just stick with that (or better yet, leave the sample rate setting at "auto" so it will pick the setting that matches the source material you are ripping from).
320 kbps is kind of overkill as well. Actually, if you want to rip to MP3, I would advise you to stay away from the iTunes encoder, because most listening tests indicate that it hasn't been updated much since the first versions of iTunes back in the late 1990s. It is no longer a modern encoder. Assuming that you are on a Mac, I suggest that you download the iTunes-LAME plugin (http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/ipod_itunes/ituneslameencoder.html), which allows you to encode tracks into the iTunes Music Library using the LAME MP3 encoder. LAME is an open-source encoder project that has been continuously developed over many years and has been heavily tested for transparency. The latest version (3.97b1) has been shown in listening tests to be almost the same quality as equivilent-bitrate AAC files.
Once you download the iTunes-LAME plug-in, you can install the latest version of LAME by going to http://www.rarewares.org/mp3.html . Scroll down to "Encoders/decoders built using LAME 3.97 beta 1" and download "For Mac OS X." This is a Unix Executable file. To install it in the iTunes-LAME plugin, go to Your User Folder/Library/iTunes/Scripts. Right click on the iTunes-LAME application and select "Show Package Contents." Open the "Contents" folder that appears and then open the "Resources" folder. You should see a Unix Executable there titled "lame." Replace this file with the 3.97b1 Unix Executable that you downloaded. Now iTunes-LAME will encode with LAME v.3.97b1 instead of its default LAME build. 3.97b1 has some major improvements over earlier LAME versions, so even though this installation process may seem daunting for some people, it is well worth it.
To use iTunes-LAME, you first select a CD or playlist from the Source list (the left-hand column) in iTunes. You then click on the Script menu (the little script icon) and select "Import with LAME...". iTunes-LAME opens, showing you a command line and an Import button. LAME encoding options are selected using command-line switches. Fortunately, there are variable bit-rate (VBR) presets that have been heavily tested for transparency, so you don't really need to know anything about the command line options. Just type in "-V 2 --vbr-new," which is one of the most heavily-tested presets, and hit the Import button. This results in variable bit rate files that usually average out to between 170 and 240 kbps, depending on the complexity of the source. For more information on the presets, see http://wiki.hydrogenaudio.org/index.php?title=LAME#RecommendedEncoderSettings
The only major downside to using iTunes-LAME is that it cannot take advantage of iTunes' error correction option when ripping CDs. If you want error correction though, you can always just have iTunes rip to WAV first, and then convert those WAV files to MP3 using the iTunes-LAME plugin.
Feel free to ask any more questions.

How can I lock my preferences for network

My network will not allow me to click the padlock to lock in my preferences 17" (Lion) , although it wil on my 15" w/ Snow Leopard, any suggestions?

You cannot if you are using an installed mail profile/account.
If you do not want them viewing your email try to see if you can access it directly through Safari where you have to enter your password each time. If you can then remove the installed mail account. Yahoo mail works fine in Safari, and so does Gmail. Not sure about others.

Bought Iphone 4s with O2-UK, Going to India next week. How can I get it unlocked for using it with Indian networks?

Hi,
I bought ipone 4s frm O2-UK a month ago, and I tried to unlock my phone with O2. But they told me they cant'
they told me " To make sure our iPhone 4 8GB and iPhone 4S stock is reserved exclusively for genuine O2 customers during launch, we aren't unlocking these phones at this time "
I am gong to india and want to to use witht the Indian networks, Can anyone please help me.
Cheers
Vinay

garethfrommanchester wrote:
... have confirmed its a hardware problem but they can not honour the warrenty. ...
The warranty is only good in the country of original purchase...
Apple Warranty
http://www.apple.com/legal/warranty/
Contacting Apple World Wide for Support and Service
http://support.apple.com/kb/HE57

How can i turn off apps for using cellular data??????

I. Having a problem of turning off apps from using my data. Whenever i close it, all the apps just automatically activate them when i go back to my home screen or i go to another page. Can anybody give me a solution??? Thanks in advance!!!! ><

Yes i did that, but when i went back to my home screen all the applications that i've choose to not using data just automatically activate themselves.... ><

How can we get record numbers for the rows after grouping them?

Post Author: preethibaddam
CA Forum: Formula
hii everyone,
i want to number those records which are grouped by a column.
eg: if i group the emp table with the deptno then the records for the deptno10 group should start from 1 and end with an N number and again when it shifted to deptno20 group than the records for that deptno20 should again start with 1 and end with N number.
i tried placing record number from the field explorer but it is not working. the other group records start with the ended number from the first group.
thanks

Post Author: V361
CA Forum: Formula
Record number from CR will count all the records. You could use a running total, and reset on change of group.

How can I lock my laptop and use a password to open the widow screen

HP ENVY TOUCH SCREEN

Hi,
Are you using Windows 8.0, or Windows 8.1? If you are using Windows 8.1, the excellent instructions in DavidPK's link above won't apply.
To find out what your operating system is, press the Windows + X keys, and select System from the list. Look under Windows Edition for your operating system (example below):
~Lil.Liebe
Clicking the white KUDOS THUMBS UP on the right is a way to say thanks!
Click Accept as Solution on a reply that solves your issue to help others in search of answers.

Sometime ago I found a copy of Photoshop 5.5 (both the APPLICATION and TRAINING) CD's in trash. I finally am getting around to try to use this, but I do not have a serial number. I have the original CD's, not illegal copies - how can I get serial numbers

Sometime ago I found a copy of Photoshop 5.5 (both the APPLICATION and TRAINING) CD's in trash. I finally am getting around to try to use this, but I do not have a serial number. I have the original CD's, not illegal copies - how can I get serial numbers to use to get this program working?

Sorry to say you are out of luck.
The serial numbers came on the cd case. If they are no longer there, you have no way of using the program except as a 30 day trial. Adobe does not sell CS5 licenses any more.
Gene

I bought my iphone5 last Mar 1, 2013. However, it was stolen/lost last friday Jun 14.How can I locked it for them not to use or resell it?I'm not registered at ICLOUD. I am not expecting it to be returned. I just want it not to be used anymore by others..

I bought my iphone5 last Mar 1, 2013. However, it was stolen/lost last friday Jun 14.How can I locked it for them not to use or resell it?I'm not registered at ICLOUD. I am not expecting it to be returned. I just want the unit to become useless already so that stolen/lost Iphone or any kind of apple brand gadget will no longer be of interest by others to buy it from any thief or any person who will resell it in just a small amount.

Sorry, but if you did not set up Find My iPhone, then unless your iPhone is set up with a company Microsoft Exchange server or other mobile device management system, there is no way to wipe the iPhone of its data, though if you had a screen lock in it, the thieves/finder will probably restore it and wipe the data anyway. There is no way to lock the iPhone permanently to prevent someone from using your iPhone, though you can report the loss to your cell carrier and they may be able to blacklist it from connecting to their network.
Regards.

I use 2 monitors how can I lock the dock to keep it from sliding over to next monitor?

I use 2 monitors how can I lock the dock to keep it from sliding over to next monitor?

I found the answer in the "more like this" area. Thanks for helping.

How can I lock in numbers for use in a spreadsheet ap?

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