How do I capture still images with iSight?

Is that possible. Do I need software to do this?
Please help

Hello, Judith,
iSight needs software to do ANYTHING.
Several apps that you can use to capture still images are listed in the Some Applications you can use with iSight FAQ, starting with iChat AV.
The iChat AV menu command for a video snapshot is shown right at the top. You just need to have the Video Preview (My iSight) window active to do it.

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Try using this tool to take the images.
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Thanks, folks. I was pretty sure the software couldn't do it; I had hoped somebody might have come up with a quick-and-dirty hack around it. We're currently using Digital Rapids Stream to encode, and this is an option in the software. We're transitioning to FMLE, and I need to preserve this capability.
I've filed a feature request, but I'm sure that even if Adobe likes it, we won't see that feature for 12 months. So I'll have to come up with an interim solution. I'm looking at a number of options: grabbing stills from the F4V using ffmpeg (works great until the F4V gets to be more than a few minutes long, at which point ffmpeg is prohibitively slow), or dedicating a capture device to just grabbing still frames (obviously, that's a bit expensive).
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I'm using trying to transfer my podcasts to Vimeo. I've been using iWeb to create a person web site with video and podcasts. I have embedded Vimeo with "html snippet widge." I want to do the same thing with audio, however Vimeo only accept "video" files.
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The most efficient method would be for you to do this in iMovie 6. You can download a version if you don't already have it on your computer. http://supportdownload.apple.com/download.info.apple.com/AppleSupport_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/Mac_OSX/downloads/061-3532.20070807.nq3ER/iMovieHD6.dmg
Put all your clips into a new iMovie project, in the order you wish them to play. Use the chapters tab and add chapter markers for each clip (except the first one; iDVD will add that one for you). Close iMovie.
Open an new iDVD project. Use the Media tab, then Movies, to locate your new iMovie. Drag and drop it onto the main iDVD window, taking care not to drop it into a drop zone. You should then see the title of your movie and the two options: Play Movie (which will play all the clips sequentiallly) and Scene Selection (which will take you to submenu(s) where you can select which clip to view).

Capturing still images using IDVD

Hi
Is it possible for me to play a personal DVD and capture still images from the movie that is being played, and then save the images, for either putting on a DVD/CD or printing them? if so how is this possible?
ps i do not have IDVD at the moment but looking at getting it.
Thanks in advance
Abed

abz latif wrote:
.. Is it possible for me to play a personal DVD and capture still images from the movie
sure, with the usual screencapture shortcuts -3, -4, -4-space etc.
but you have to use VLC as player, due to DVDplayer.app prohibits any captures.
ps i do not have IDVD at the moment ..
your Mac came pre-installed with iDVD...

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I have had a re-occuring and long term problem that has caused me many lost hours of head scratching and work arounds, and as of yet I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
Its to do with integrating still images with the Final Cut suite.
If I receive a high quality image from a client to use in their video and I then try importing it into Final Cut and animating it, it always ends up looking like a pile of ahem. Often I will get "swimming" lines appear across fine detail on the image, and parts of it will flicker as it moves across the screen. For instance, if I have a picture of some blinds or other fine detail (especially horizontal and vertical lines), when I add a grow and throw movement to it the detail will become very noisy - buzzing and flickering like mad.
I have found I can counter this by resizing the image in photoshop to a resolution closer to SD video (700w or 500h) - but I always end up losing detail, and the flickering and noise is only reduced, not eliminated. Other things that have helped are blur effects applied at a very low level, like 0.5 blur, so its not noticeable visually, but Final Cut seems to treat it differently and quieten the noise and flicker down.
However, all of these workarounds are ultimately still giving a reduced quality product.
Also, this problem is not necessarily constrained to Final Cut, I am currently fighting DVD Studio Pro because it is murdering the text quality in a stills slideshow I am creating - and in this situation there is no animation being applied. No matter what file type (psd, jpeg, tiff, png...) or size I output the text and images from Photoshop in, the moment DVD studio pro gets hold of it, it turns to cripe.
For a while I was putting it down to the fact that I usually edit in SD (PAL) formats, and there just wasn't the resolution available to reproduce fine detail. However, I do often see other people achieving pin-sharp fine detail on still images and text in SD formats (the Apple templates are a good example)
So, my question to you, oh great and high boffins, if you are dealing with still images and text, how do you do it? How do you work around any noise problems you have, and how do you produce those pin-sharp images (both moving and still) I see in other professional productions?
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

still images with too high a resolution will always cause problems. this is due to the detail of the image being finer than the scanline of the tv can display ... obviously this will caise the image to flicker as these details alternately appear and disappear as and when the scanline can display them. as you have discovered, the answer is to apply a very small blur, the effect being that the detail is spread by the blur such that the scanline can dislay it correctly.
text issues are often rooted in the same problem ... unless the text is placed very carefully (whole even number on the y axis) then the quality may be impaired due to the resulting interlacing/scanline issues

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I use FCP 5.0.4
I have read the many threads about this subject and am still not able to succeed in getting rid of the flicker/pulsating in a still image with motion.
I would say about 25% of the stills with motion have the jitters; all the rest look great.
The first thing I tried was
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Field Shift:none
as well as
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter min, med, and max.
Maybe 5% were corrected with this, but the other 20% still had the jitters even after using a combination of the above or by themselves.
I just burned a test DVD using a variety of the persistently jittery stills from my current project and although the jitters change a bit, they were still there so all of these failed:
1. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Upper (odd)
2. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter minimal
3. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter max
4. Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
5. Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
6. All the tricks together which means
Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace set at Upper (odd)
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Shift Fields: none
Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
I know this issue has been kicked around a lot and i know some folks are not happy that it has to be kicked around at all. But I am doing something wrong because my DVDs look very un-PRO. Would anyone like to talk me through this nightmare preferably with as many details as possible since I am obviously missing something critical.
Thanks in advance.

There is no 'secret formula'. It just takes thinking through the issues.
1. Set the image size for each image that makes sense within the context of your project. Going significantly larger than the displayed area of that image (including movement) is just asking FCP to do additional work to resize the image. FCP is less sophisticated at resizing images than Photoshop. Use Photoshop and your planning of the movie to get the images to the appropriate size.
2. Wasted effort and totally irrelevant- you could set it to 7200 dpi if it makes you feel better.
3. Good idea - be sure to knock down areas of pure or very bright white. These are the elements that will give you the most trouble.
4. Don't do this unless you want to throw away HALF the picture information. Deinterlace deletes half the picture and then photoshop recreates it through interpolation of the remaining half of the picture. Why do this?
5. Make your determination based on what works. If you have properly exposed and sized the material, the need to blur is greatly reduced. ONLY do it on the images that need it. Why degrade every image if you do not need to do so?
6. See number 5
7. Lay out your time line early, view the work on an external broadcast monitor and only mess about with the images that require it.
In the psycho business they have term for much of the referenced post - it's called superstitious behavior. Basically it comes down to "It worked before so we recommend it to everyone without regard to their situation" ... here's another example:
Many years ago in my architecture practice, we had one of the early 512k macs (upgraded from the 128k!) I needed to show one of the interns how to create a project budget spread sheet in Excel. Inadvertently I clicked on Word, said "oops", closed it and opened Excel and we went to work.
A week later I was walking by the computer and overheard the same intern explaining how to work with Excel to another architect. "First you open Word, close it, THEN you open Excel", she explained. When asked by her 'trainee', why do you have to open Word first, wouldn't it just be easier to simply open Excel? Her answer was just perfect, "Well, it works every time, what's wrong with that?" so it goes ...
good luck with your project.
∏

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Message was edited by: motoredd

I’m afraid you may have bitten off more than you might want to chew.
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poa66 wrote:
Landscape: I want result to be 1960 x 1103 px and 72 ppi whether the original is 300 ppi or 220 ppi and wether it is 2Mb or 10 Mb. Cropped centered top and bottom.
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How do I capture still images with iSight?

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