How do I go about cloning my MBP? What type of external HD will support this?

I want to backup my MBP prior to installing Lion. Some suggest to clone my HD? Never done this and after reading some posts it sounds like some External HD's will not support Mac? What about 'CCC' - Carbon copy cloner? Any thoughts?
Looking for some advice... Type, size, etc. I currently have a W/D
Thanks in advance.
FYI
MBP
Version 10.6.8
2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
My HD info says "Used" 54.6 GB
265.13 GB available

It makes more sense to use Time Machine to back up your hard drive, because then the Lion software will transfer the right preferences, applications, and files back to your new Lion computer.
Get a 500GB USB 2.0 external hard drive. You can find them from around 50-100 if you look around. Get a portable one, so that you can carry it with you.
CCC has some specific purposes which doesn't make sense here since you're upgrading your operating system. If you were going to swap out your internal hard drive, for example, CCC is an absolute requirement. I use it frequently, but not for what you're doing.

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What is utp and who will do this ?how you do unit testing?

Hi....
he asked me like this
1...what is utp and who will do this ?how you do unit testing?
thanks and regards,
k.swaminath reddy.

Hi Swaminath,
Adding to what Sandhya told..When the huge work is diveded by units, each unit is assigned to a Developer.After complition of the assigned work Developer has to do testing that object by seeing that Unit Plan or Creating Unit Plan.
Regards,
Ameer Baba.

I bought my macbook pro in march 2007. I am currently running osx 10.6.8, but want to upgrade to lion or mtn lion. Apple website says i need a mid 2007 or later macbook pro, how do I tell if my Macbook pro will support this upgrade?

I bought my macbook pro in march 2007. I am currently running osx 10.6.8, but want to upgrade to lion or mtn lion. Apple website says i need a mid 2007 or later macbook pro, how do I tell if my Macbook pro will support this upgrade?

The Mid-2007 model didn't come out until June 2007, so you must have bought an earlier model. It won't run Mountain Lion (OS X 10.8.x), but it might run Lion (10.7.x) if you can get hold of a copy, depending on which earlier model it is.
Lion requires at least a Intel Core 2 Duo processor. The first MacBook Pros came out in January 2006, but they had "Core Duo" processors (no "2"). The Core 2 Duo MacBook Pros came out in October 2006. You could have bought either in March 2007.

I need to copy audio files and projects from logic to an external hard as my MBPis nearly full and my external hard drive has packed up with all my files on it, any suggestions on how do I copy 200GB from my MBP to a new external HD

I Use logic and back my audio file and projects on an external HD ,this has now packed up . I have all the files in the MBP , but need to copy them to a new external HD, I have only 10GB left on my machine , how do I copy 200GB from my machine to a new External HD.
any helpful full advice would be appreciated.
angus

Yes, just drag and drop them into the drive..
How long will it take? Hard to say without knowing the type and speed of the drives in question.. and even then it's hard to estimate... but does time really matter?
The fact you only have 10 Gigs left will/may slow the process down but it wont/shouldn't stop it...
If needed.. just drag and drop some of the files at a time.. not all of them.
Remember that copying files doesn't delete them from the original drive... You will still need to delete them yourself after they are copied over and empty the trash....
However....
When you saved these projects in Logic (Pro X?) did you save them using the include audio files option?
If not, then when you move the audio files used in these projects... Logic will not know where they are to reload them........ and that will cause you issues.
So.. if you didn't...
I would use this method instead...
Logic Pro X: Move, copy, and convert audio files

How to I go about backing up my macbook on my External Hard Drive?

Hi, I'm really not computer savvy and i was hoping i could ask you for the best way to backup my air using my 1TB external hard drive?
I wanted to have space for time machine backups as well as space so i could manually backup (archive) certain documents, videos etc.
While I was reading, I understood that to have time machine backups, as well as manually archive data, I need to partition my hard drive. I was hoping i could partition one half to work on pc computers (and my mac) and the other to work on my mac for TM backups.
My question about partitioning is:
1) If I split my HD into 2 (one for TM and one for manual backups that work on a PC) can I still access my archive section on a mac or will it be unreadable to a mac computer, and only readable to a pc? -- what I mean is, if I partition one half to work on a pc, can I still use to in the case of a HD failure on my MacBook air; to have my important files restored? Can I still access the files i put in the pc useable archive section on my, or another, mac or is it now only readable on a pc?
2) Or will I need to partition my hard drive into 3 segments. 1) For TM, 2) for data to be accessible on a PC, and 3) one for archived data to be readable on macs. So essentially I’ll have duplicate files on both the pc and mac archived segments. Is this necessary? Or is there a better way?
I wanted to have time machine backups and a manual archive section on my external; although, i also wanted to be able to access files on my archive section at school for presentation and the like...be it a mac or a pc. I wanted to be able to access those files on either my or another mac and for school on a pc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...I apologize if you couldn't understand my intentions; I’m not good with all this techy stuff so please bare with me!
Thanks!

#1 is a very bad idea because it creates a bad choke point for serious data loss on ONE external hard drive.
Hard drives aren't prone to failure…hard drives are guaranteed to fail
Never practice at any time for any reason the false premise and unreal sense of security in thinking your data is safe on any single external hard drive. This is never the case and has proven to be the single most common horrible tragedy of data loss that exists.
Many 100s of millions of hours of lost work and data are lost each year due to this single common false security. This is an unnatural disaster that can avoid by making all data redundant and then redundant again. If you let a $60 additional redundant hard drive and 3 hours of copying stand between you and years of work, then you've made a fundamental mistake countless 1000s of people each year have come to regret.
#2. Same reason.
2 hard drives MINIMUM, one for TM backups, and a second for data redundancy/ archives. (preferable a 3rd HD clone as well).
Hard drives are cheaper than dirt, you must have one external, and if you cherish you data you NEED a minimum of two
You can have your archiving HD partitioned in Exfat for file transfers between Mac and PC
For data access on your PC, have a HD formatted for ExFat for file transfers between Mac and PC, however such a format will not work with time machine which needs to be in Mac OSX extended journaled.
see here
Methodology to protect your data. Backups vs. Archives. Long-term data protection

Ibought an ibook by mistake. I wanted an audiobook. I only have an ipad so cannot read large book on it. Can I transfer it to a Kobo Vox? If not, how do I go about switching the ibook for an audiobook. I will pay the difference, no problem.

I bought an Ibook by mistake when I thought I was buying an audiobook. I only have an Ipod - can't read a big book like that on an Ipod. Is it possible to transfer it to a Kobo Vox? If not, how do I get hold of Itunes to exchange them (I will pay the difference)?

" Is it possible to transfer it to a Kobo Vox? "
No.
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There are no refunds/exchanges. You can try contacting itunes support and asking for an exception: Click Support at the top of the page, then click the link under Contact Us.

Hello, how would I go about using my time capsule as an external hard drive for my Mac book pro?

Anybody know if I can use my time capsule as an external hard drive for Mac book pro?

Just recognise the following.
Store files on the TC.
https://discussions.apple.com/message/24380694#24380694
This is asked several times a day.. obviously people are struggling with their latest SSD being too small.
The TC is not suitable for network file server.. but many people having no choice press it into service as such.
It cannot be partitioned. It was and is and ever shall be a backup device for Time Machine.
Major issues.
1. No backup.. no way Time Machine can backup a network drive. No place to backup to.. So all your files will be at risk. And you will need to buy a third party like CCC to do backup.
2. The TC cannot be partitioned and mixing TM backups and data is not great.
3. The drive is slow to spin up and quick to spin down.. there is no controls.
4. iPhoto in particular can easily corrupt its entire library with wireless networking causing a disconnection to one photo. Even if you do this;;; do not move your photo library... you have been warned!!
5. iTunes will constantly lose connection to the library. The disk is too slow to respond.. itunes on the computer will constantly spit out errors. Even in the midst of streaming the TC can spin down the disk due to caching.
6. Do not use any live files on the TC no matter what else you do.. if you edit files in whatever program the file must be on the local hard disk.
7. The only suitable location for most libraries is a computer. You can plug in an external hard disk.
Read pondini for some work arounds.
Q3 here. http://pondini.org/TM/Time_Capsule.html

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Message was edited by: Jānis B

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I need to do a clean install of maverick on my 2010 mbp what disk do i use and how do i move certain files from an external hard drive

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First, you need to make a backup of your MBP onto your external drive. I suggest you start by cloning your MBP drive to the external drive:
Clone Mavericks, Lion/Mountain Lion using Restore Option of Disk Utility
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
     1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu then press the Continue
         button.
     2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
     3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
     4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it
         to the Destination entry field.
     5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
         the Source entry field.
     6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the external backup drive. Source means the internal startup drive.
This clone is fully bootable and also contains a clone of your Recovery HD.
Second, you need to do a clean install of OS X onto your MBP as follows:
Install or Reinstall Mavericks or Mountain Lion from Scratch
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
OS X Mavericks- Erase and reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Erase and reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Erase and reinstall Mac OS X
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.
This should accomplish your goals. You will have a clean install of OS X on your MBP and a bootable clone of your old system and all your files on the external drive.

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Okay, so I was on an agonizing wait of 1 month for my MPB to arrive, and I was extremely excited when I got it.
After using it for a week or so, I've become really perturbed by the whole EXTREMELY HOT aspect, and screen whine issues.
My MBP gets super hot when it is on, moreso when plugged into the outlet. It does get uncomfortable to place in my lap after just a short time.
The screen whine is also noticeable when plugged in, but not as much or at all when unplugged.
I believe I also have heard a whine from the left speaker area of the laptop as well.
I updated the firmware and osx to 10.4.6, and it hasn't provided any software fixes for these hardware issues.
My MBP serial begins with W86105xxxx
After just dumping so much $$$$$ into a laptop, I can't see how I can go about leaving things as they are, and I believe I deserve a properly working, annoyance free piece of hardware for my money.
How should I go about getting a replacement?
Would it be sufficient to bring it and my receipt to an Apple store, and allow them to exchange it?
Since I ordered online (via ADC membership), do I have to go through Apple online?
What should I do?

Lunarist,
You appear to have the "bad" whine... You need to get it replaced/repaired.
If you have an AppleStore close to you, just go there, and after they check it out and confirm the defect, you can ask (in a polite fashion) if they can replace it instead of repair it. I say in a polite way because it really depends on the mood of the 'genius'... It shouldn't be that way, but in most cases it is.
I hope they fix you soon so you can enjoy your MBP experience!
Best Regards,
Pablo

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

How do I go about cloning my MBP? What type of external HD will support this?

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