How do In scan negative film to be able to see tiffs in Lightroom 4?

LR supports TIFF format files up to 65,000 pixels and 2GB in size according to: http://help.adobe.com/en_US/lightroom/using/WS42D207D7-B290-4baa-A896-AB71965BF24B.html, so 70MB shouldn’t be a problem.
TIFF is a container format so the actual image data contained within could vary e.g. uncompressed, JPEG etc. Maybe the image data is incompatible with LR? I personally use uncompressed TIFF for certain operations so this is definitely compatible.
Do you have any TIFFs that can be imported? Perhaps you could compare the compatible and incompatible TIFFs using a metadata viewer such as the very excellent ExifTool by Phil Harvey (http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool)
NB Bogdan Hrastnik has developed a Windows GUI wrapper for ExifTool available here: http://u88.n24.queensu.ca/~bogdan/
Maybe the issue is local to your system and LR does, in fact, support the files. I’d be happy to try importing one on my system if you’d like to send one through...

Similar Messages

Invert scanned super-8 negative film to positive in FCP?

Have some negative super-8 film that is going to be direct transferred to a Quicktime file.
I scan negative still film and invert it to a positive in Photoshop, however am not sure if this is possible to do with motion picture film in FCP.
Is it?
What is the best way to work with scanned negative film in FCP?
Direct telecine is far too expensive (from what I've seen) for this particular project, so I'm looking for a way to invert it in the computer.

If indeed you are planning to project the negative and shoot it off the wall, you should know that negative stock has different sprocket perforations than a print. They are smaller and have a different shape and are not the same distance apart as regular print sprocket holes. This is so that they can be held firmly in the gate of a printer. It is entirely possible, even with you taking the utmost care, and using a projector that is clean and tweaked into perfect spec, that you can run that negative only once, after which it will be so chewed up you'll never be able to run it again.
Just so you know.

Can I scan 110 film negatives on the canoscan 9000f?

I am contemplating buying the canoscan 9000f, but I will need to be able to scan 110mm film format. Can I do this on the canoscan 9000f? I have seen an adapter for that film size on ebay and amazon (oddly enough, cannot find it on Canon), but the price is prohibitive. Can I scan negatives without any holder - in other words, just lay the film directly on the glass platen and scan the negatives in that way?

I found a useful article online called: "How to Scan Odd (Non-Standard) Size Film Negatives on a CanoScan 8800F Scanner -Made Easy".
Here's the URL: http://askjoanne.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Scan-Odd-Non-Standard-Sized-Negative-on-a-CanoScan-8800F
I have a Canoscan 9000f, and I guess it is similar to the 8800f.
Under the scanner lid, remove the white and black background panel. Center the 110 negative on the glass and close the lid.
When you get into the Canon MP Navigator software, you want to Scan and Import -- Film. Click on the little box that says "Use the scanner driver." Then click on "Open Scanner Driver." That sends you to the ScanGear Advanced Mode settings.
   The first time I did this, I could not understand why many choices were grayed out.
    You have to click on PREVIEW    !!
     When I did this, I got an error message: "The film could not be detected. Please check if the Select Source is correct, or confirm if the film is set correctly and execute preview again. Otherwise, please switch off the thumbnails view mode."
    That last part was the key -- the thumbnails switch is in the upper left corner of the screen. There's a little Slide icon and a little Negative icon. Click on this "switch", and when the Negative icon shows up in color, you are set to go.
    Now, when you click on PREVIEW, your 110 negative should appear. Now just "crop" the 110 negative: move the cursor over one corner of the negative, hold down the left mouse button, move to the diagonally opposite corner, release the mouse button.
    Delete the black box (if there is one) in the upper left of the scan area.
     Now click on SCAN. When it finishes scanning, you can choose to "Retouch and save the image (Close ScanGear dialog)". When you close ScanGear, you will wind up back in the MP Navigator.
    In the Scan Complete box, click on exit.
    Then SAVE your scan under a new name (not IMG).
    Then you can Open the image in a good photo-editing software. I use PhotoShop Elements. There you will need to crop each individual photo on the 110 strip, and save each photo under a different name.
   I think you can use the same technique on other sized negatives.
A good article about negative sizes is: "About Film Formats - Slides, Negatives, & Transparencies" at www.pearsonimaging.com .

Problems with scanning color film negatives

I am using an Epson 4990 flatbed scanner to scan color film negatives. When I scan 120 film I can during the scanning process that the entire negative has been scanned, but in thumbnails and then in the final scan the picture (image) is smaller than the negative. It is as if the software is cropping the picture. Is there anyway to ensure that the scanned picture is the same size as the negative?

Hello @JGFWilks!
Thank you for posting on the HP Forums!
I can see that the software is not available for your Scanjet G4050 on Mac 10.10. Although the the software is not available ImageCapture should still allow the option for "auto selection"in the dropdown should be "detect separate items" It should then detect your 30 separate photo negatives. When you are in image capture you will want to ensure you press "show details" at the bottom of the window to get all the options. You may also want to try changing the resolution to a higher DPI to see if that helps when scanning the negatives.
Thanks again for posting on the HP Forums! Enjoy the rest of the day!
Cbert
I work on behalf of HP.
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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How to change dates on scanned negatives?

I have a large amount of scanned negatives.
The date of most of the negatives are known.
How can I change the date in LR, or other program, so they will show up correctly - when sorted by date in LR?
Tx
Hans-P

Thanks to you all :-)
I have tried tese methods and they works fine - but it is only the capture time I can change, not the METADATA date.
But at least I can now sort the photos, tested some.
In the LIBRARY view I chose Metadata (Library filter) and then 'date'.
The photos were sorted by the captured date.
So the METADATA date is maybe not so importent for sorting by the captured date? It is only updated/changed when you insert keywords or do some work on the photo.
Mvh
Hans-P.

Questions on scanning negatives?

I thought I'd post a new thread, as had some remaining questions and didn't want to hijack someone else's thread.
I'm embarking on scanning in all my previous 35mm colour negatives, and have so far learnt quite a lot both from experimentation and from reading threads on this forum.
Whilst I know there is no black and white answer to these questions I'd love to hear other peoples views based on their experiences and expertise:
1. What colour depth are people using . 48-bit or 24-bit ?
2. I have Epson V500 which has digital ICE technology for dust removal. It increases the scan time a fair amount and even the manufactures instructions recommend using only on frames that you want to improve due to this increased time. The problem is I want to set up a bit of a 'production line' so I can just get downs to scanning rather than inspecting each image as I scan. The question is : Is it better to do the dust removal at the physical scan stage or is it possible to achieve the same result with Photoshop? I've just had a quick play with Photoshop (never used it before) and the Reduce Dust and Scratches filter didn't seem particularly good doing this for a whole image?
3. As I'm no David Bailey, am I wasting my time (or rather Hard Drive) with TIFF files rather than Jpegs? As a point of reference, all my recent photography has been done on a Canon EOS350D which takes beautiful images that I'm proud of, but I store these as Jpegs (approx 3200x2200 3MB) so it's probably overkill to store my less quality film scans as TIFFs?
That said, I have plenty of external HDD's so as long as iPhoto is just as happy with external drives of TIFF's it's not a problem for me.
Anyway, many thanks for any hints & suggestions.
Dan.

Dan:
I would go without the dust removal (use a can of compressed air to clean the negative strip first) and use Photoshop for the touchup work. I use the clone tool and the Spot Healing Brush to fix blemishes. Granted it's more labor intensive but it would depend on how many of the negatives are needing touchup and how much time you have. If only a few then scan without.
If the ICE feature also fixes scratches and other blemished and you find you need it then you can switch to it. Unless your work is for professional use I'd go for 24 bit color and JPG format. Once you get the jpg file onto the HD and into iPhoto it will be preserved as it was scanned as a "digital negative". If you plan of doing a lot of editing of one file then create a psd file of it and use photoshop on duplicate layers. That way you can have multiple versions in one file.
When I retired I went on a binge of scanning over 5000 photos and 5000 slides. It took me 5 years to complete. I've learned a lot since then. My slide scanner was a one trick pony and when I was done I had a nice door stop. The new flat bed scanners do slides and negatives very nicely and can scan multiples of each and create separate files for each (my Canon does that).
However, as I'm sure you already know or have been told, put into place an efficient backup strategy. It's very important.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.≤br>
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

__Just bought a Canon Scanner (CanoScan9000F) - how do I scan directly into Photoshop CS5?

I have a CanoScan 9000F scanner - I'm trying to scan through Photoshop CS5 Extended but I just can't figure it out...
I downloaded the TWAIN plug-in:
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/405/kb405072.html

Canoscan comes with a bunch of software including ScanGear - in manual it says you should use this instead of Twain (don't know why that) or VIA. If you installed everything correctly you should see the it in File->Import->CanoScan 9000F.
On the other hand I have few questions, maybe someone can help:
- how to I scan 48bit images into PSE ?
- is it possiblle to automate dirt / scratch removal for b/w negatives (FARE) ?
- maybe you know of a plug-in that can do it - I have thousands of black and white films to scan, and doing it by hand is not really an option (for colour materials FARE works great)
Other than that i find the scanner quite good, especially the ability to scan more than one frame at a time - I can set it up in a moment (LED light is great, no warm-up time for a scanner finally), and then let it to the work, while i do my work - as scanning - mebye due to the fact that my computer is not the fastest out there) is still slow - 4 slides take > 30 minutes. But the results are very nice - if you want to check the quality, here is the link to my photographs scanned in PSE and Canoscan (origanally at 3200 dpi, resized for the web).
Tomasz Czarnecki :: teleskopy.net

I have a CanoScan Lide 700F scanner ,how do I scan Black and white neg.and turn them into positives?

I am scaning all old pictures, docts, slides ,but I have alot of b&w negs verious sizes, how can I turn them into b&w positives??

Hi Teddy.
The MP Navigator EX software that was bundled with your CanoScan LiDE 700F can be used to scan your black and white negatives. To use the MP Navigator, please follow these steps:
1. Start MP Navigator EX and open the Navigation Mode screen.
2. Point to Scan/Import and click Film.
3. Place the film on the Platen.
4. Click Specify... to set the document size and scanning resolution as required.
5. When setting is completed, click OK.
Important
Film may not be scanned correctly when Film Type in the Scan Settings dialog box is set to Auto. In that case, select the type of film in Film Type and scan again.
Note
To scan black and white film, it is recommended that you select Black and White Negative Film or Black and White Positive Film for Film Type in the Scan Settings dialog box.
6. Click Scan. Preview scan starts. When preview scan of the film is completed, the preview image appears.
Important
If a message for calibration appears, remove the film, then place the Film Adapter Unit over the first frame of the Film Guide and click OK.
7. When the calibration is completed, follow the on-screen instructions to load the film into the Film Guide, then click OK.
Note
Preview image does not appear when the Preview before scanning checkbox is not selected in the Scan Settings dialog box. The scanned images appear directly in the Thumbnail window.
8. Select the checkbox of the frame and click Scan. When scanning is completed, the Scan Complete dialog box opens.
9. Select Scan or Exit. To scan another frame, place the Film Adapter Unit over the frame you want to scan, then select Scan. Select Exit to end.
The scanned images appear in the Thumbnail window.
10. Edit the scanned images as required. Use Edit Tools to rotate images, select a part of an image, etc.
Note
First select images to edit. (Selected images are outlined in orange.) Drag the mouse or use Shift + arrow keys to select multiple images.
11. Save the scanned images.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Color Cast Strips in a Scanned Negative

I have scanned negatives that show a couple of subtle color cast stripes. In corrected space these show up as yellow, but in negative space they are only in the blue channel. The stripes seem to be on the negative and not a scanner artifact.
Can photoshop mask for these areas and correct the color ?

Some cross-posting here while I typed up mine (I didn't see Trevor's posts), but I didn't have time to comment further.
Yes, scanned negatives can be a nightmare. I would never attempt to batch that, I just do the most important ones individually and put the rest back in storage. It's just too much work. However:
If you have many negatives taken at the same time that show these color bands, you can use the same adjustment layer(s) on all of them. The adjustment layer can simply be dragged from the layers panel over to the next photo; or you can make a preset. If it's a single roll of film you may not even have to redo the mask.
Another advantage of "painting in" the adjustment is that if you overdo it you can press X and paint back very easily. The example you posted took only a couple of minutes, with two layers - one plus blue to kill the yellow, and then one minus blue for the excess blue on the right.

I have bought a film from itunes and the credit has come out of my account, but i can't find the film anywhere, it said it was downloading, then i left the laptop and on return i couldn't find the film. how do i find the film?

i have bought a film from itunes and the credit has come out of my account, but i can't find the film anywhere, it said it was downloading, then i left the laptop and on return i couldn't find the film. how do i find the film?

Maybe it is in the Purchased category of iTunes,
Try going there

How do I scan on my HP deskjet 1510 all in one series? Theres' no button on the printer?

there's no scan button on my hp deskjet 1510 all in one series printer? how do I scan?

Hello,
If you go to the following location and identify what PC operating system you are using, it provides instructions on how to scan to your computer:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documentSubCategory?tmp_rule=26675&tmp_task=useCategory&cc=us&dlc...
I work for HP, However, I am speaking for myself and not for HP

How do I scan to my desktop with windows 8?

I have a HP 5520 all in one. Ever since i got my new computer with windows 8, I've been having trouble finding my scans. How can I scan a pic to my desktop? thanks for any help!

Hi,
Firstly you need to install printer software and drivers on your Windows 8 computer. After that, you can see an icon on desktop (or use Win key and move to the right to see the icon). Double click (ot touch) the icon and check "Manage scan to computer". Enable this if required.
Now, you can scan from computer OR from printer. I always recommend: scan from computer, this will give more options.
To can from computer, use the above menu
(a) Click scan a Document or Photo
(b) Put orginal on the glass face down,
(c) Click scan from computer, ......
(d) Click Save, remember where to save it.
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Scanning Negatives - File Size Error

I receive the error that follows while scanning negatives:
"Failed to obtain files from the device. The files size exceeds the maximum size allowed..."
What is PSE maximum size for scanned images.

Hi Dave,
This is quite strange. There is as such no limit to the size of the scanned image.
To isolate the problem, can you please try this?
1. Scan the negative using Windows Camera and Scanner Wizard.
2. Drag and drop the scanned image onto Organizer.
Do you still get the same error?
Thanks/Tarun

How do a scan a file from my scanner and make it a PDF. . . . I do not see this choice in the Adobe program?

How do a scan a file from my scanner and make it a PDF. . . . I do not see this choice in the Adobe program?
In the past I would simply place a copy of the document on my scanner, then selected create PDF from scanner. However, there is now no create PDF from scanner alternative, option or choice. The only option available is selected file to convert to PDF. what am I to do?

That would have been a function of your scanning software. Adobe Reader is only used to view the pdf that your scanning software created.

Problem with scanning negative to file

HP Scanjet G2710 and PC with Win7 .
When I try to scan negative to file the program returns extended error info :4,[(2,6,8004005),(3,6,0)].
What does it mean?
What can be done in this situation.
Thank yoou in advance
Gennady01111952

Hello Gennady01111952, and welcome to the HP Forums.
I am sorry, but to get your issue more exposure I would suggest posting it in the commercial forums since this is a commercial product. You can do this at HP Commercial Scanjet Forums.
I hope this helps!
Please click “Accept as Solution " if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks" for helping!
Jamieson
I work on behalf of HP
"Remember, I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together!" - Red Green.

How do In scan negative film to be able to see tiffs in Lightroom 4?

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