How should i delete partition without getting rid of specific files?

sorry if the question isnt clear. ill try to explain. i have a 500gb toshiba external hard drive i connect usb to my macbook pro and i basically was going ti use it as a second back up start up for my mac. i have never gotten any help from a apple person. so bare with me. in disk utility theres three things that pop up when i connect it. macintosh hd to far left, i can only verify and repair disk.
below it to the right is first partition lalo stuff roomy . it's format is logical partition abd has capacity of 279.13 gb and available gb is 31.21 used gb is 247.92. 4619 files. i can only verify or repair disk.
below that partitionis lalos stuff 2 . now this partition is a mac os extended case sensitive journaled format. 219.65 gb capacity, available is 42.86 gb. used is 176.79 gb. number of files 3847. can verify or repair disk.
now i basically thinki have similair files almost exact double in each partition. id really like to just safely without screwing up open it up so i can use the space thats not being used. but i am not sure when i go to combine the partitions if im going to rid the files.
when i go to partition layout the second 2 partition is almost fill with blue .. it said you may only merge this partition with the one before it. i can press the minus... it warns me. it sais the first partition will be erased... so i dont know what to do... i can try copying what i can one by one into my time capsule jsut to make sure i dont lose much if in fact once i go ahead and combine them it truly is the first partition that is cleared and it leaves the second stuff 2 alone... any ideas what to do? thanks.
is there any easy way in disk utility to like just combine them both and have it not double up the items that are the same???

Gperez0604 wrote:
id really like to just safely without screwing up open it up so i can use the space thats not being used. but i am not sure when i go to combine the partitions if im going to rid the files.
You cannot combine partitions. I don't think even expensive 3rd-party apps can do that.
You'll have to copy the files you need from the "lower" partition elsewhere, delete it, expand the upper one down into the vacated space, then copy the files back into it.
See #4 in Using Disk Utility for detailed instructions and samples.

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Click +
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208.67.222.222
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208.67.220.220
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are locked user files or that have incorrect permission a bad thing?
Yes.
why am i removing symantec?
Short answer: Because it's worse than useless and worse than the imaginary "viruses" you're afraid of would be if they really existed. For the long answer, see below.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, and a technological fix is not going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the scam artists. If you're smarter than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in everyemail attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It's as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

HT1660 i have two independent itunes libraries on my computer right now. how do i consolidate them into one library? how do i get rid of duplicate files?

i have two independent itunes libraries on my computer right now. how do i consolidate them into one library? how do i get rid of duplicate files?

Hello rmunsey,
Thank you for the question. It sounds like you have two separate iTunes Libraries but would like to add the music from one to the other to have one consolidated library.
If you know where the files are for each library, I recommend opening one iTunes Library in iTunes and importing the files from the other library using the following steps:
Open iTunes
From the File menu, choose one of the following choices:
MacAdd to Library
Windows
Add File to Library
Add Folder to Library
Navigate to and select the file or folder that you want to add
Adding music and other content to iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1473
Next, you can search for duplicates:
Choose View > Show Duplicate Items to show duplicate items (matches are based on the song name and artist). If you have multiple versions of the same song (for example, live and studio versions, or versions from different albums) you can hold the Alt or Option key (for Mac OS X) or the Shift key (for Windows) and choose View > Show Exact Duplicate Items. This will show only duplicate songs having the same name, artist, and album.
How to find and remove duplicate items in your iTunes library
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2905
This should help you identify the duplicates all at one time so that you can delete the extra versions of songs.
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M.

How to get rid of duplicate files in Windows Media Player 11, I am seeking an answer if at all possible.

I don't know if this is the appropriate forum to ask this question....if it is not please guide me to the correct support forum. I am just trying to find out if there is an easier way of getting rid of duplicate files in my Windows Media Player 11.
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I guess I was naïve but I thought that when Windows Media Player is out searching other libraries it would know not to take duplicates of songs that it has already. Enough said .....if anyone out there can help me that would be great. I have in
the past spent many hours manually deleting songs from my music files and it really got old.

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who post their question in this forum in error, but please don’t ignore it. The links I share below I’ve collected to help you get right where you need to go with your issue.
For technical issues with Microsoft products that you would run into as an
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How to get rid of large files generated by Final Cut X ?

My hard drives are getting increasingly full and I think its Final Cut render files or something similar.
How do I get rid of the files Final Cut creates for old projects without hurting those projects (in case I want to resurrect them) ?
Are the rider files stored within the huge library file, or in a certain location?
I have my settings as "in library" for Media and Cache.
(If I cmd-click (or right click) the library, show contents it does show a folder with a date, in my case 2-24-15, then a subfolder called Render Files. Can I just trash all of these within the library?)

Select library and go to "File->Delete Library Generated Files" (or similarly select just an event or project, the wording of the menu will change accordingly).
You can then elect to delete render files (all or just the unused ones), proxy media and optimized media.
None of this will prevent you from working on your projects. Probably you don't need them anyway, and if you do you can always regenerate them later.
(It seems that many people check to create proxy and optimized media on import - this is usually unnecessary and especially optimized media can take a LOT of disk space, often ten times as much as the original)

How to clean or get rid of duplicate files or pictures?

How to clean or get rid of duplicate files or pictures mac osx mountain lion? Many pictures do not open and show alias. I have too many of each. Thank you
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The only real and safe way to do this is to do it manually looking through each folder individually.
Many third party utilities claim to clean out a hard drive of various detritus, but some times will deleted data that it shouldn't and delete important data and that it shouldn't have.
The only "safe" way to accomplish what you need to accomplish is to do this manually.
Stay away from the OS X system folder!!!!!
If you had a duplicate system install and had duplicate system files, your iMac would not be running right now.
Hard drive getting full?
You can download an app called OmniDiskSweeper.
This app will allow you to see where files maybe able to be delete are located.
If your Mac is running a fairly recent version of OS X, here are some general guidelines.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you have images stored in iPhoto,,the only way to weed out duplicates is to do this manually.
When you delete them, they go to iPhoto's Trash. Remember to empty this when you are done.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what are duplicates and what isn't
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Other things you can do to gain space.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

How can I get rid of other files on my mac ?

how can I get rid of other files on my mac ?

Hope this helps.
1. Empty Trash.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH10677
2. Delete "Recovered Messages", if any.
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    Select "Library" from the dropdown.
    Library > Mail > V2 > Mailboxes
    Delete "Recovered Messages", if any.
    Empty Trash. Restart.
3. Repair Disk
    Steps 1 through 7
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4. For more on this and very helpful tips:
    http://pondini.org/OSX/DiskSpace.html
    http://pondini.org/OSX/LionStorage.html
5. Disk space / Time Machine ?/ Local Snapshots
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6 Re-index Macintosh HD
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   http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2409

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Same question ! 2 GB of space is waisted 4 the moment ...

How do I know if I can get rid of a file I don't recognize?

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When you put your computer to sleep the contents of your RAM are written to the sleepimage file. This way, if there is a power failure or your machine shuts down unexpectedly in some other way, the data you had in RAM when you put the machine to sleep won't be lost.
You can disable this process through Terminal (see this topic), but simply deleting the file won't save the hard drive space because the file will be recreated the next time you log in or restart.

How should i delete partition without getting rid of specific files?

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