How to adjust the color profile on Macbook Pro/IMAC for Brother printers?

Hi,
We have both iMACs and MacbookPro w/Leopard 10.5.4 in our office. They also run the Parallels software with Windows XP. We have 2 color printers in the office, a Canon and a Brother 4070cdw. When I make a color print, the output looks very different from the 2 printers. The Brother printer produce very light copies, almost look like there's a white wash over it. I called Brother and went through all kinds of test and they finally said it's not the printer, but the color setting on the Mac. I didn't believe them at first, but then i did a test. I print a color page from the WindowsXP side on my Mac, and print the same page from the Mac side, and the results are very surprising. They look very different, like from 2 different printers; again, the one form MAc is very light.
I then opened up "system perferences" and tried to play around with the different color profiles under "Display". But the changes did not affect the print outcome much. Please help. Thank you very much.

To prepare a computer for sale or donation, in addition to the steps mentioned in this support article, take these steps:
If you set a firmware password, remove it by running Firmware Password Utility in Recovery mode.
If you activated FileVault in OS X 10.7 or later, turn it off.
If you use Boot Camp, the partition must be deleted
If you created any other data partitions on the internal drive, remove them in Disk Utility.
Erase the data partition(s) with the option to zero out data. An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.
You can't legally or practically transfer any software downloaded from the Mac App Store to the new owner of the machine, even if it was free. That includes OS X, so if you paid for an upgrade OS X 10.7 or later, you must reinstall the original OS, either from the installation media, if applicable, or by booting into Internet Recovery (option-command-R at the startup chime.)
The new owner will have to repurchase the software, if need be, under his or her Apple ID. If you ever updated the bundled iLife applications (Garage Band, iMovie, and iPhoto) through the App Store, you can't transfer them either.
Remove the machine from your list of registered products. If it's still covered by an AppleCare Protection Plan, transfer the coverage to the new owner by following the instructions in the AppleCare Terms and Conditions (under the heading "Transfer of Plan.")

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elainemak1 wrote:
I just got a brand new macbook pro, and was really dissapointed with the audio coming out of the speakers. My last laptop was also a macbook pro from three years ago, and that one had way better speakers. I'm hearing way too much high mids, and very little bass coming out of the speakers on this one, and it's really really noticeable. I know the speakers on these aren't supposed to be amazing, but the huge difference from the last generation of macbook pros makes me wonder if there's just something wrong with my new computer... Does anyone know if there's any way to adjust this, or can anyone at least confirm that the speakers are just way worse than the last generation?
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Is the 13 inch base Macbook Pro Enough for me?

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Hey Chris,
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Greetings from Europe
An don't forget Apples Prices for Students. With them
You will Save a Few bucks ;)

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Hi,
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Why we can't customise the MacBook's hull?
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The MacBooks are offered in white or black... the Pro is offered in silver/gray (the color of the aluminum casing). As an earlier post indicated, there are vendors that will do this for you. They're a bit expensive, but they do a good job.
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System Preferences -> Security -> General
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Hello damo1177,
It should help to reset your system's SMC and NVRAM.
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http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
About NVRAM and PRAM
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
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It didn't help
I found something, however. If I click "System Preferences", then "Sound", and then "Output", when my headphones aren't in the audio jack, under "Name" it reads "Digital out" and under "Type", it reads "Headphone port". There's no sound. However, when I plug in my headphones and select "Use audio port for: Sound Input", the volume comes out normally, as if there are no headphones, even though my headphones are plugged in. The sound comes out normally. Hopefully, that doesn't sound confusing lol.
If i can't truly get my Mac's sound back to normal, then I'll just plug in my headphones and select to use them for sound input. If I select "Use audio port for: Sound Input", the music transmits through my headphones.
Oh well.
Thanks for your help, though, sanjampet

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ifixit.com.
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I am planning to sell my Macbook Pro.
I need to know what's it worth.
The Specs:
Processor 2.66 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 8 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M 512 MB
17-inch (1920 x 1200)
500 GB
Flash Storage
Disc formats that can be written:
CD-R, CD-RW, DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, DVD-R DL,
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My MacBook Pro (2011 early edition) has become extremely slow. What needs to be done to enhance its speed!

Things You Can Do To Keep Your Computer From Slowing Down
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion
Boot from your Lion Recovery HD. When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand.
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
Carbon Copy Cloner
Data Backup
Deja Vu
SuperDuper!
SyncTwoFolders
Synk Pro
Synk Standard
Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Additional suggestions will be found in Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time, then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

How can increase the memory of my macbook pro retina??

I have a macbook pro with retina display. It has 121 flash memory and i want to have more, is this possible??
(sorry if the question is to stupid, but i dont understand to much about computers and memory)
Thanks

Actually, the storage (SSD, like a hard drive) is replaceable, though doing so voids your warranty. Check here, but make sure you find the exact model Mac you have.
http://www.macsales.com

Which is the best 15 Inch Macbook Pro choice for me?

So I am a currently attending college and studying at the moment CIM (Computer Information Management). I work a lot on my computer either on school work, personal projects, and some minor freelance work. I use a lot of Adobe CS4 software such as Photoshop, Illustrator, Indesign, Flash and Dreamweaver. But I am going to want to get into studying more 3D software products as well. Such as Z-Brush, Maya and what ever 3D software is the best and easiest to use. I can look into that later. But here is the deal. I know what ever choice I make, regarding any MacBook product. It's an upgrade from the laptop I am currently using. I am not dying for the need of a new computer. But with the study and field I want to get into. I definitely need it pretty soon. So my help/question in request is:
Which Macbook Pro (15in/ if 13in will hit it right on the mark of requirements) I should get.
Alright so I am currently running this:
Windows 7
Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2390 @ 1.86GHz 1.87GHz
Installed memory (RAM): 3.00GB
System Type: 32-bit Operating System
I do have some what of a total budget. Which is: 2,450. That is the Online cost for the Macbook Pro 15in - 2.66GHz Intel Core i7 w/ the Apple are protection plan. (Student discount applied)
That leaves a huge hit on my wallet for a bit. So 2,000 would work best. But I don't mind taking the risk since Macbook Pros were recently updated and MacBook Pro products are a lot more longer lasting.
I would love to hear from as many people as possible. The more lamest terms the better. Any information would help. I know the battery life info and such. I have a few External Hard drives. So I don't have an issue with space. But if you have any more question that might be able to help you give me more information to help me make the right choice by all means.
I'd prefer less answers saying. i7 cause its better and will last you for a while anyways. More in depth reason would help. If not just your input on which works best.

Personally, I would say go for the 2.4 GHz 15-inch model to drop the price so you can then upgrade the RAM to 8 gb or/and to an SSD. Apple's processing speed differences of 2.4/2.53/2.66 are insignificant, and the only reason I see of going to the i7 model is because of a small boost in the graphics cache (512mb) for gaming.
It all really depends on 2 things:
1) how many and how huge of programs you like to run at once
2) how much space you need on your computer for data
If you run a lot of programs at once or use larger programs like Final Cut, an upgrade to 8gb of RAM will make your computer much faster. A .13 GHz increase in speed won't do anything except cause the program you're using at the moment to possibly work more quickly. RAM is crucial for an abundance of work. It is also more expensive to add 4 gb though...
On the data note, I prefer using an external hard drive to not only backup my files but to also use it as a hard drive. For example, I keep what I need to use at the moment (like current videos i'm editing) on the computer and keep the stuff I won't use for weeks or stuff I'll probably never use again on the external drive. It keeps my computer from having 100s of gigabytes of info on it...easier to manage the computer and its contents. Even being someone who does a lot of video editing, a 128 gb SSD is the perfect size for me if not more than enough. Bonuses of the SSD: faster read/write, no mechanical parts such as spinning dics, silent. The HD that comes standard is really the only thing that makes noise on a computer aside from the cooling. Once again though, SSD is a more expensive upgrade.
As always, it's personal opinion and up to you man!
If you'd like to keep it at 2000, go for the 2.4 GHz model (1699 with student discount I think), and use the 300 for whatever you'd like to add on, whether it be the care plan or what I've mentioned. This might sound complicated, but if you do decide to buy the SSD, then consider the 2.53 GHz model because it only costs 60 more than the SSD on the 2.4 model. You get an extra 50 off with the student discount AND the SSD upgrade is cheaper because your base memory is different.
Good luck!

How to adjust the color profile on Macbook Pro/IMAC for Brother printers?

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