How to best open a 35 mm slide RAW scan with 4000 dpi in Camera RAW CS5?

I have, at present, set Camera Raw to open files as ProPhoto RGB and as 360 dpi. I want to keep all options open for later use of the files (for albums or enlargements). How do I get the best results so that I do not diminish the quality obtained in the scanning process (where I try to use only ICE and to leave all other editing to PS later - I know that the changes made by ICE are permanent so that I already here do not have a real RAW - but it is my impression that the choice of RAW over TIFF in the scanning is still worth it).
I have also some older scans but these are TIFF's, also 4000 dpi but only 8 bit. I want to get the best result from both types of files.
I plan to perform all edits before I finally save files in various print sizes. I am still quite scared as to make mistakes when resizing so that I get an inferior quality in the new size.  I, of course, keep a copy of the original scans safe and unedited.
I am also in doubt as to wether I should go directly into PS or via Camera Raw with the scans.
Excuse these foolish questions from a grandmother who is a complete newbie as to film scanning and still quite "green" as to PS.

Thank you. So far I have not scanned as RAW files but felt persuaded that I should choose that format. Especially after having read the arguments in Sascha Steihoffs "Scanning Negatives and slides".
I went back and found a new edition of the book where it has been added that in PS (the book is from 2009 and refers to CS3) ACR cannot open the scanned nef's, only nef files from a camera. It seems that you have to use Nikons own editing software for opening these files. I tried to ask Nikon if the scanned nef's could be opened in the latest editions of PS but got the answer that they "did not know".
So I have probably to stick to the tif's. Pity! Unless CS5 or 6 can open them of course. I wish I could get an answer from Adobe concerning that. They should be interested in encouraging people to use their software instead of Nikon software.
I probably should still give it try but that would probably mean that I should do it without the ICE in the hardware to get a real nef RAW (or maybe it still is not a real RAW).

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