How to choose the right format picture?

Hello, on my website [ 4ensure.com ] I've created the costum header and put there logo whic I created with adobe photoshop cs5.1 and when I scroll down the titles of pages down of them crosses the header text. The logo text is in JPEG format. I've tried PNG and some other formats but doesn't work. Which format I need to do the photo to make a solid background not to be crossed by anythig?
I hope you understand what I'm asking?
Thanks in advance!

This has nothing to do with the image format. You need to read up on web design or simply pick a different WP theme that doesn't use a static header placement in an absolute DIV.
Mylenium

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  • How to choose the right format?

    Hello, on my website (2hinsurance.com) I've created the costum header and put there logo whic I created with adobe photoshop cs5.1 and when I scroll down the titles of pages down of them crosses the header text. The logo text is in JPEG format. I've tried PNG and some other formats but doesn't work. Which format I need to do the photo to make a solid background not to be crossed by anythig? I hope you understand what I'm asking?
    Thanks in advance!

    Delete in code
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    Hello again washleyill,
    The defining factor, which you haven't mentioned in either this or your original question, is what your overall budget is.
    With the introduction of the new models, it's a new ball game now since I replied to your original question.
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    However, Adobe UK made me an offer I couldn't refuse! The full boxed Photoshop CS5 edition for half price!
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    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
    The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
    So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
    Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
    You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

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