How to overlay image onto black clothing?

I have two screenshots attached.  One is when overlay is applied to layer and one is without.  Im trying to have the effects of overlay without losing color and brightness in design.  When i try to brighten the overlayed layer it changes the color of the shirt. Also, soft light and hard light do not look desirable as well.  I would like the design to look normal in color but still have that overlay effect where the curvatures and seams in the shirt are shown through the design. Any suggestions or help ? Thank you.

Displacement map, maybe?

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