How to pick a good power supply?

I ordered my 875p Neo-FISR with an Aspire X-Dreamer case. The case is budget, but it does a decent job of cooling my system (cpu temps: 25c-40c). The only problem is, I'm using the 350w Turbolink PSU (better named POS) that came with the case.
My turbolink: +3.3V@24A;+5V@35A;+12V@12A
I have some money to spare so I'd like to buy a high quality PSU close to 500.
Here are a few of my options:
Enermax 460W EG465P-VE(FC):
+3.3V@35A;+5V@35A;-5V@1A;+12V@33A;-12V@1A;[email protected]
(Enermax sounds like a favorite on these forums, but it's a bit pricy...)
Fortron 530W FSP530-60GNA:
+3.3V@30/17A,+5V@44/24A,[email protected],+12V@16/28A,[email protected],+5VSB@2A
(Fortron won the Anandtech PSU Roundup so I thought I'd consider it.)
Antec 480W TRUE480BLUE:
+3.3V@30A;+5V@38A;[email protected]; +12V@22A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A
(Good PSU brand name)
Enermax $$$ > Antec $$$ >> Fortron $$$
The funny thing is, turbolink was ripped to shreds by Anandtech so I KNOW I have to replace my PSU. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Bonus points to anyone who can explain the volt/amp numbers and why they are important.

As Raven has posted, get the Enermax 460W and save yourself a lot of hassle in the future. I use it, I love it.
To "try" and explain voltages and such, well I'm not sure what you mean, but I will explain what I can.
+12V : The most important of them all since this one powers the processor, vid card, all fans and some other stuff I don't know of.
+5V : Dunno what this one is for. Maybe powering the mobo itself and the chipsets?
+3.3V: Powers your ram. Dunno what else it does.
Hope this helps.
Oh, and to everybody reading this, please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

Similar Messages

How can I replace the power supply IN the time capsule

I have a TimeCapsule that has a bad powersupply. I have opened the timecapsule to confirm this. Has anyone done this before? If so, where did the power supply come from? Cost? I took this to the Apple Igneous bar and they said there is nothing that can be done about it.They said it couldn't even be opened, but simply peeling the rubber bottom off and unscrewing a number of tiny screws and that's it. The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there. That was a bit of a surprise. I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad. I had hoped that if I removed that the AP part would at least work, but after opening it up and firing it up I could hear that the power supply was buzzing thus the conclusion it was the issue.
I am going to put the SATA drive in a reader to see that it is indeed ok. If that checks out, then I know for certain it is the power supply, but I don't know what to use as a sub since the unit needs both 12V and 5V. I'd just as soon find a good supply and use that. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John A Kostelac

What version is your TC.. A1xxx from the rubber foot?
Power supplies are not available from apple. They do not consider it repairable. It is a sealed consumable.
Power supplies are available from ebay.. simply type time capsule power supply into search.
This is absolutely standard issue that has been ongoing for ages and ages.
See https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair
For a multitude of ways to fix it.
The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there.
No, it is not loose, it has rubber mounts with pins in the bottom base plate. You cannot see the mount points with the base off. This is standard hdd mount for low noise and vibration.
I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad.
Drives seldom are the problem. The Gen2 WD black has been less than great though.. and later spinpoint in Gen3 not so good.
Apple Igneous bar

How to pick up goods in sales order

While creating sales order by VA01 i am not able to pick the goods by using picking button. There is no error msg. showing but in the picked button its showing 0 . Am using 000 server in R3 4.7. pls suggest me how to solve the problem .

Hi there,
Picking in sales order level? It is done in delivery. Not sales order.
After creating delivery, check in picking tab what is the entry in overall picking status & Overall WM status. If the entry in overall WM status is A WM transfer order TO required, then you will need to create a Transfer order & confirm it to pick the quantity. In that case, pick quantity will show 0 in grey mode.
If you maintain an entry in SPRO -> Enerprise structure --> Assignment --> Logistics Execution --> Assign warehouse num to plant & storage loc, then you will need to pick through a TO.
After the TO is confirmed, then pick quantity is updated automatically.
Create TO in LT03, confirm TO in LT12
IF there is no requirement to create a TO for picking, then you can enter the pick quantity manually & save.
Also check if the item is relevant for picking or not in over all pick status.
Regards,
Sivanand

How To Order New AC Power Supply for Satellite A350-20Q?

Hi,
I bought my Satelite A350-20Q 2 1/2 yeras ago, and when I turned on my laptop the screen was dim, the power supply was already plugged in but it did not make any change. How can order a replacement?
Thanks

According notebook specification AC power supply for your notebook has part number PA3290E-3AC3. I dont know where do you live but Googling around and using this part number as search term you will, I hope, find enough online stores where you can order new AC adapter.
You can also contact nearest Toshiba service provider and ask them to order it for you.

I need help picking the correct power supply for my HP Pavilion a1000

Hello,
I need to replace my power supply on my HP Pavilion a1000. It currently has the original (A Bestec Model: ATX-300-12Z CDR. The HP P/N is 5188-2625.
I found one on ebay that has the same numbers but instead of CDR, it says DDR. I don't really know what that means. The listing is below. Will this work? If not, could you give me a link that would work?
Thanks ahead of time for your help!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Not-Noisy-Replacement-PC-Power-Supply-fo-Bestec-ATX-300-12Z-DDR-HP-P-N-5188-...
This question was solved.
View Solution.

jimmycaps wrote:
Hello,
I need to replace my power supply on my HP Pavilion a1000. It currently has the original (A Bestec Model: ATX-300-12Z CDR. The HP P/N is 5188-2625.
I found one on ebay that has the same numbers but instead of CDR, it says DDR. I don't really know what that means. The listing is below. Will this work? If not, could you give me a link that would work?
Thanks ahead of time for your help!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Not-Noisy-Replacement-PC-Power-Supply-fo-Bestec-ATX-300-12Z-DDR-HP-P-N-5188-...
Hi,
Yes the PSU will be ok. It's a desktop so you don't have to use exactly the same PSU. It can be even more powerful but make sure there are all compatible connectors. It looks like the CDR version is only 300W and the DDR 400W. The connectors are the same..
http://www.newpowersupply.com/bestec_atx_300_12z_cdr_300w_300w_24_pin_ps2_replacement_power_supply_p...
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

How do i remove blown power supply (g5 dual 2.7)?

my powermac g5 (dual processor 2.7Ghz) has blown it's power supply and i'm struggling to remove it. I'm at the point where i need 'screwdriver' style allen keys to remove the water cooling system (I hope i'm right in thinking that once this is out i can somehow get the power supply out from the bottom of the case).
with the machine lying down, looking down into the cooling system i can see 6 hex style screws (4 in corners, 2 in middle), 4 star style screws (2 at edges, 2 in the middle).
which ones do i need to undo to lift the entire cooling system off? i don't want to risk damaging the cooling system by unscrewing everything i see.

Thanks for the official procedure, that rivet defiinitly looks like it's meant to break as it is removed. I'll see if i can unhide my email address on my profile for this site and maybe you could email me the file?
My machine didn't have much dust in it at all, and it never had any problems starting, suspending or resuming. It did sound like it was about to take off sometimes when i was loading the processor. I mainly do stuff in Logic and there is always moderate fan noise while i was operarting the program, and then when it came time to bounce the audio out and the processors were at 100% it made a **** of noise. Also got really hot, would heat the room on a cold day no problem. Overall though considering the heat the thing was producing i dont think the fan noise was excessive though. In fact overall i was really pleased with the machine, but after reading around on the internet it probably seems to be the worst piece of hardware that apple have ever designed.
When i spoke to the company who i'm getting the refurbished psu from, they couldn't understand where the blue flashes could have come from. Initially i thought the light must have flashed out of the fans on the power supply but i've sinced realised the fans are on the front not the back - and the flashes definitly came from the back. They suggested maybe i had a dodgy power lead, so now im worried about the board and processors.

See the what a good power supply looks like

I thought this was a kinda cool comparison of power supplies. I guess sometimes you really get what you pay for. )
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pdf/Turbo-Cool_510_vs.pdf

FYI:The Silencer 400 ATX/ATX12V is the exact same Power Supply inside as the 510 they just use a quieter less powerful fan so they derate it as a 400 watt. They have the exact same MTBF and specs. People have put a Panaflo fan into them to get more power and still provide a quiet PS this would probably void your 3 year warranty. This can save you a few $ though.:D

XFX 8800GT in a Mac Pro - how to connect to the power supply

I want to install a XFX Geforce 8800GT in a 2008-Mac Pro (running Vista only; no boot camp). Where can I get the necessary power cable to connect the card to the Mac?
I know that there are two non-standard(?) 6-pin power connectors on the main board, which are meant to connect those “booster cables” to. I know that these cables are available via mail order (e.g. from ATI for approx. $13). I also know that Apple’s support is not very helpful with questions around non-supported hardware.
*Here’s the problem:* Instead of two 6-pin molex connectors this card has only one, but requires the use of a special Y adapter to connect to two 4-pin molex plugs (as seen here: http://www.com-tra.de/img/p/06759_o.jpg).
*My question:* What is the proper way to connect this graphics card to the machine? Is there a matching cable available somewhere? Could I perhaps simply use two booster cables and a 6-pin molex Y-adapter? What about getting the power from somewhere else, e.g. optical drives?
Any help is much appreciated!

It depends on whether XFX's GeForce 8800 GT is overclocked and what the demands of the fan assembly might be.
It's really easy to find out. When I just connected one power feed to Radeon HD 3870 X2, it didn't show up to Vista 64 (while the Radeon HD 2600 XT which was also installed was clearly recognized).
I shutdown, added the second power lead, and powered up. This time it showed up.
Also, sometimes you will get an audible alarm if the card is deficient on power - especially if it's the only GPU installed.
In the case of the HD 3870 X2, instead of a "Y" connector, I used both Apple proprietary power feeds that were connected to the motherboard's PCIe 6 pin power sources. You can use an external power source (like an ATX power supply) if you run short of power sources but then you can't put the side cover on.

How to test if MDD power supply is bad or it's Something Else

Ok,
I've had a MDD for 4 years. Dec 2007 the PSU died. I had it replaced under my renter's policy (yeah..) the new rev. part was $870!. I Didn't care... insurance paid for the repair.
Now, after 1.5 years, I was having disk corruption issues which led to numerous forced shutdowns (no reset button on the MD) finally, after about 5 of these in one day, the power on light lit when pressed, and I heard a crackle & smelled a a bit of smoke. I pulled the power cord immediately.
btw pressing the power button now did nothing at all, no "fan attempts" no crackle.. nothing.
Same deal, I called the ins co, took MDD to the authorized techs, who checked & said the PSU was dead... again.
The Ins Co. is "totaling" the MDD and I'm looking for a used G5.
BUT! I'd love to get the MDD working again. Just to have it as a second machine.
I've read a bunch of threads here on this issue & testing the PSU.
I'm not a super geek, but I can follow instructions... which I did. There's a great online instruction set with pics and all, about how a guy found a bad solder by disassembling the PSU.
I followed it step by step. Saw nothing remarkable.
Then I came here looking for steps to test the PSU (I'm starting to wonder if it's more than that).
I found a diagram of the pins and voltages.
Connected the PSU the the juice and started testing the connector, where it plugs into the motherboard.
Here's what I found (connected to power but obviously still not starting the computer):
Pin 1 (says +5volts sb, which I assume means stand by?) with the black lead from the tester inserted into pin 2 (gnd). It read 5 Volts.
No other pins showed ANY voltage EXCEPT pin 14 (which says +25Vsb). That read +24.8V when tested.
What I DON'T know is...
If disconnected from the MDD, should all the pins read voltage as the pinout diagram says? I'm brand new to this level of diagnosis.
I'm wondering if maybe the CPU fried etc.
Also, while trying to determine if the power button might be faulty I broke the switch off (duhh). Shorting across the two stubs that were left there didn't produce any powerup either (it's just a 2 pin contact switch right?)
So I need to know if I have accurately found the PSU to be bad. I can get one on ebay for $150-ish.
But I'm worried, since this was a +*new super better PSU*+ and it (possibly) has died, maybe something on the motherboard etc. isn't right.
The machine hasn't been connected to power for 3 weeks & yes, the battery is now dead. I swapped it out, and reconnected the PSU... nothing.
+*So first, did I correctly test the psu?*+
there was a dead link to a MDD repair manual on another thread. First I have to figure out IF the psu is dead, and then decide if something else KILLED it.
Help? I'm using wife's G4 and she's getting real PO'd after 3 weeks!
Thanks to anyone in advance.
Tom

Hi,
Thanks. By power button board, Do you mean the unit that has the power button on it? On the case front?
If so, I mentioned the switch broke while I was testing. I guess to continue I have to get a new switch.
I will pull the mini-board for the power button though to look for signs of damage.
Can I get a new switch to solder on to the board, if the board looks good. The orig. switch physically broke off the board. It's a standard contact switch correct? i.e. press and there should be continuity between the two pins? I'll pull the board as well.
I've already checked the PSU interior. No burnt wires visible anywhere. There's a lot of grey goo glue used so it's hard to see, but since the PSU passed the two passive power tests you mentioned, are we for now assuming it is a good PSU?
Other discussions I've read, describe continuing to test different pins and look for appropriate voltages. That doesn't make sense to me with the computer not starting up.
Aren't the rest of the voltages supposed to show ONLY after the command to supply startup power is given (by the power switch)?
Processor "looks" good too, no signs of burnt anything after pulling the heat sink, but I haven't removed the logic board or the mother board yet to look underneath.

Good Power Supply?

Reading these posts i found that many problems are solved by getting a new psu. Can anyone plz tell me if what i have is good enough to work with the K7N2 Delta-Ilsr.
400watt
115v/230v
+5v 30A
+12v 16A
-5v 0.3A
-12v 0.5A
+3.3V 14A
+5VSB 2.0A
These are all the numbers that are said on my psu.

While much depends on your COMBINED rating of the 3.3V and 5V rails (which should be printed on the label), I can tell from the separate readings that your supply is too weak.
If you intend to run an nForce2 board and a videocard, an Antec True480 is really the minimum you should choose.
My sig shows my recommendation, though. You don't want to run your supply anywhere near peak output for any length of time, and you want to allow for possible future upgrades as well.
I did an EXHAUSTIVE research, and ended up buying the Antec True550. Excluding dual mini redundant power supplies (VERY expensive), the 550 was the ONLY PSU to match my criteria. (And I've been in the computer/electronic hardware biz for 25 years.)
Check the True550 out at Pricegrabber.com. I got mine fr $95 shipped a couple of months ago; the price might even be lower now. Don't flinch at the price, either; a good PSU is the best insurance against potential future problems that you'll otherwise never be able to fix. Why spend $60 now and $90 later, when you can spend $90 now?
In order to best approximate your future PSU needs, check out this link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
Make certain to check every applicable box, and if you, say, OC an XP2500 to 3000 levels, select the 3000 processor. Same idea with video adapters, ram, etc. Also, if you have a built-in LAN port, check the Lan card box, because you still use the power...same with soundcard if you use built in sound, etc.
When you're done, look at the bottom and add 30% to that figure, and you'll have the rating of the supply that's right for you.

Is this power supply good?

A friend of mine wants me to build him a very similar system to the one i have but he's going to get a x800pro card instead of my 9800pro. I'm thinking of ordering the Antec True Blue 480 PSU for him. Do you guys think this is a good power supply? Any comments are appreciated.

So the older ones could actually be quieter?
An aluminium case is not as good for absorbing vibrational noises as a steel case but because i have back problems i can't lift a heavier case. It's hard to build a good looking, lightweight, powerful and quiet computer today because things just work against each other so much. But that's my idea of perfection.

Imac keeps shutting down - is this a power supply issue

Dear all. Help would be much appreciated.
my imac G5 has recently started shutting down by itself - always about 1 minute after starting up... I have seen a few suggestions to reset the PRAM and the power switch - both of which I have done to no avail.
I have hoovered the dust out - still same problem.
Question is - can I be confident that this IS the issue - and order a replacement part?
I would like to install it myself - thus avoiding cost for a repair - and am confident I could do it if I had good instructiuons.
Can anyone help me with my diagnosis or how to fit a new power supply?
Thanks in advance - I am really missing my imac!

You can't be completely sure that it's the power supply, it could be bad caps . Open the machine up and inspect the caps, and also the ones in the power supply unit. If any of them is bulging or leaking, that would be your problem. Look at http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php for instructions and help.
You can also try to run Apple Hardware test from your install disk and see if it comes up with anything, also, from your install disc try to run Disk Utility:
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc that came with your computer, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Click the disclosure triangle to the left of the hard drive icon to display the names of your hard disk volumes and partitions.
5. Select your Mac OS X volume.
6. Click Repair. Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk.

Upgrading Soon / Power Supply Question

I will upgrading soon to a K8N Neo Platinum socket 754 and either a 3200 or 3400 64bit processor.
Will my current power supply be good enough. I have an Enermax EG465P-VE 431W power supply right now.
3.3v is 38a
+5v is 44a
+12v is 20a
Thanks

Quote
Originally posted by buttasuperb
Yea I got my current power supply about 8 months ago and I'm sure it was older stock.
Quote
Originally posted by splitThis is an older one..
One of these.
Specifications: Model: EG465AX-VE W-FMA. AC Input: 100~240V, 50~60HZ, 9.5A~2.5A. DC Output: +3.3V/38A; +5V/44A; +12V/33A; -5V/1A; -12V/1A; +5VSb/2.2A; +3.3V& 5V/220W. Total power: 433W
That would be a good power supply to get for my new rig, right? I was thinking of getting a new power supply anyways, since I was gonna build another computer with some older parts. This way I can keep some stuff in the old case, and just buy a new case/PSU for my new stuff.
You'll have a job.
Note on that page..
Availability: This item has been discontinued and will no longer be available.
Seen a lot of people in the UK ranting how good these are.
Single rail as well

Changed the Power Supply, but now just get a Yellow Trickle LED

and no start up. Did I do something wrong? Did the reset on the Logic Board and nothing. Should I take it all apart and try again?

I do actually, that's how I changed the original power supply. I even tightened the screws in order and stuff. I actually talked to a tech in NYC at Digital Society and he felt the Logic Board was shot. I have decided to stop investing money into the thing and buy a Mac Pro. Anyone need a new Power Supply? or have a good logic board they don't need.... lol

Catalyst 2955T-12 Power Supply n IGMP Snooping

Hello everyone,
I have Two Catalyst 2955T-12 switches, on this switch there are Two Power Supply (DC) options...I want to implement redundant Power Supply solution, can this Two DC Input on Switch will give this solution or I have also external Din Rail power supply...my question is how I can implement redundant power supply so that if one PS of switch fails then automatically other will start?
Also can any body tell me what IGMP snooping do? do I need to configure it? also the command (I need global command as well as port/interface based command)?
Regards,
Shahid

For the power redundancy question, I believe this link will help:
http://www.cisco.com/univercd/cc/td/doc/product/lan/cat2950/12122ea2/2955hig/hginstal.htm
Also can any body tell me what IGMP snooping do? do I need to configure it? also the command (I need global command as well as port/interface based command)?
>>Layer 2 switches can use IGMP snooping to constrain the flooding of multicast traffic by dynamically configuring Layer 2 interfaces so that multicast traffic is forwarded to only those interfaces associated with IP multicast devices. As the name implies, IGMP snooping requires the LAN switch to snoop on the IGMP transmissions between the host and the router and to keep track of multicast groups and member ports. When the switch receives an IGMP report from a host for a particular multicast group, the switch adds the host port number to the forwarding table entry; when it receives an IGMP Leave Group message from a host, it removes the host port from the table entry. It also periodically deletes entries if it does not receive IGMP membership reports from the multicast clients.
The multicast router sends out periodic IGMP general queries to all VLANs. When IGMP snooping is enabled, the switch responds to the router queries with only one join request per MAC multicast group, and the switch creates one entry per VLAN in the Layer 2 forwarding table for each MAC group from which it receives an IGMP join request. All hosts interested in this multicast traffic send join requests and are added to the forwarding table entry.
IGMP Snooping is by default Enabled globally and per VLAN. If for some reason it is not enabled, "ip igmp snooping" at the config mode to enable it.
There is nothing else to configure.
http://www.cisco.com/univercd/cc/td/doc/product/lan/cat2950/12122ea5/2950scg/swigmp.htm#wp1020034
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How to pick a good power supply?

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