How to power down unit

How to power down unit when not in use?

Press and hold the Play/Pause button and then iPod should go to Sleep.  Then activate the lock switch on the top so that it isn't accidentally awaken by any slight movements.

Similar Messages

  • Eject/Power Down Hard Disk

    In Mac Pro, Leopard, after boot, I right click the Internal HD for Windows desktop Icon, selecting Eject and can hear it winding down.
    In Mac Pro, Windows 7, Computer Management->"Disk Management", Internal Disk 0 is Windows Drive with Vista & Windows 7 OS's. Internal Disk 1 is Mac OS X - Leopard which I've set offline via right click.
    In "Device Manager" I've disabled ATA Channel 1 Controllers and Drive for Disk 1. After reboot, I no longer see Disk 1 in "Disk Management".
    My question: is Drive 1 still needlessly powered up & spinning? With Mac Pro side panel off no lights I see indicate either drive to be operating, vibration seem same for both to the touch.

    Further information after no response on this in either Windows 7 or Mac Bootcamp Forums:
    in Mac Leopard side of Mac Pro, iStat widget, recommended by Apple, powers up the ejected drive to display among other useful information, the drive temperature of 99-101 while Mac drive is at 88 degrees.
    My wish in submitting here is to find out how to power down an internal drive that is not in use in the active Operating System, to conserve power usage and maybe prolong computer/drive life span.
    If this was an IBM mainframe and I needed to access data written beyond end of file due to IBM software error, I could do it with Assembler & XDAP Macro, or, more urgent, if the VTOC of a Drive was damaged making it inaccessible, I could use Superzap to fix that. I could probably say how to power down a disk drive without pushing the device power down button if, in that scenario, I had ever had to do so before.
    Surely this not an impossible thing to do in a Microsoft OS.
    Mainly posted for Windows 7 feedback. If I get an answer, will post here for anyone in the same boat.

  • How do I stop an app from waiting?  I have tried to reboot by holding the home key and power button to power down.  Also, I have tried to sync the apps from my laptop with no success.  Can you help?  Thanks.

    How do I stop an app from waiting?  I have tried to reboot by holding the home key and power button to power down.  The app is still grayed out and waiting so it cannot be deleted.  Also, I have tried to sync the apps from my laptop and tried downloading new appswith no success.  Can you help?  Thanks

    If there are multiple apps trying to download at once, only one can download at a time and the rest say "Waiting" until it is then their turn. Try this. Double tap the icon of the Waiting app, and it should resume the download.
    How to Solve the Problem of An iPad App Download Stuck on “Waiting”
    http://ipadacademy.com/2012/06/how-to-solve-the-problem-of-an-ipad-app-download- stuck-on-waiting
    How To Get Rid Of Your iPad App Download Frozen Problem
    http://www.sidelineapple.com/how-to-get-rid-of-your-ipad-app-download-frozen-pro blem-and-not-lose-years-of-your-life-video/
    iTunes: How to resume interrupted iTunes Store downloads
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1725
    Another thing to try - Turn the iPad Off & then back ON.
    If that doesn't work:
    •  Log out of your iTunes store account.  Go to Settings > Store > Sign Out Then press the Home button.
    • Then press and hold the Home and Sleep buttons simultaneously and don't release them when it brings up the Turn Off screen; keep holding them until the Apple logo appears.
    • After restart, the Waiting should be gone.
     Cheers, Tom

  • I was in the middle of downloading an update and my I4 disconnected.  Now I can not reconnect to itunes.  My phone wont power down.  It just has the apple symbol with a bar underneath. How do I fix this.

    I was in the middle of downloading an update and my I4 disconnected. Now I can not reconnect or power down my phone.  It has the apple symbol and a bar underneath.  How can I fix this?

    Dear Terence, Thank you for responding to my problem. In no way did I mean to discredit the dedication and work of the volunteers assisting Apple customers and if I did, I apologize. I am just so tired of having to purchase a new computer every other year as so it seems.  I know they are not perfected, but it is very frustrating when they just go kaput.  I am always the first person to appreciate a kind deed and do appreciate your support and help regarding this unfortunate issue. My iPad was the greatest computer I've had until this morning and was disappointed.  Again, thank you for your concern and for your help. It is greatly appreciated. 
    Sincerely,
    Shakabird1

  • HT204266 Iphone 5 The power down button does not power down it locks the keys how do I make that go to power down?

    My iPhone 5 power down button does not power down it sounds like its taking a picture the locks everything up. The power down button and the home button. I want to smash this phone!!

    hello WallyWalsh, if this warning is showing up you might have to reset the homepage to the version that is used in firefox 4 & above (the old homepage will show the warning you have referenced). to change it go to firefox > tools > options > general & reset the homepage to the default (that's '''about:home''').
    to set up sync between your pc and the tablet, go to ''firefox > tools > sync'' & create a sync account - for detailed information about it please refer to [[How do I set up Firefox Sync?]]

  • How to do I handle a Partial Power Down of a Multi Site Active Directory Infrastructure

    Hello,
    We have an impending power down and I'd like some guidance on how it will affect Active Directory
    We have three sites (Site A, Site B and Site C)
    We have connectivity from Site A to Site B
    We have connectivity from Site A to Site C
    We have no connectivity from Site B to Site C
    We have one root forest domain contoso.com
    We have two DCs at each site
    All the FSMO roles are on the DCs at Site A
    Site A needs to be powered down for 12 hours
    What steps, if any, do you suggest I take?
    Can I keep the DCs on at Site B and Site C to maintain local services?
    When connectivity is restored will everything be ok with Active Directory? Will any changes successfully replicate?

    What steps, if any, do you suggest I take?
    12 hours is not a long period. So, no required action to take.
    Can I keep the DCs on at Site B and Site C to maintain local services?
    Yes.
    When connectivity is restored will everything be ok with Active Directory? Will any changes successfully replicate?
    Yes.
    This posting is provided AS IS with no warranties or guarantees , and confers no rights.
    Ahmed MALEK
    My Website Link
    My Linkedin Profile
    My MVP Profile

  • When trying to download a pdf file, it just hangs and locks up my computer causing me to power down. How do I fix this?

    Whenever I try to download a pdf file, Firefox hangs and my only recourse is to power down and power up again. I have to use IE to get the pdf I am after.

    You have two PDF "reader" plugins installed. Try disabling one of them. Tools > Addons > Plugins

  • Power Mac G4 MDD power supply unit/RAM

    Hello,
    I just bought a used Power Mac G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors) at a garage sale for $20. The owner said it works, but he took out the RAM, power supply unit and hard drive.
    I would like to place an order for the RAM and power supply unit but I am not sure how I differentiate which power supply unit to purchase. When I try to look it up all I find it is that it had gods gift to worst ever power supply unit in the history of power supply units. It was the loudest most obnoxious fan set up or something of the sort.
    Well bottom line I need to get a few replacement parts for the old G4 desktop and was hoping that some experienced mac hardware person could point me in the right direction. I am comfortable replacing parts I am just not certain what I need to purchase to install.
    Does anybody know of any good 3rd party hardware that they could suggest for a replacement part?
    Power Mac G4
    Designed by Apple in California
    Model No.: M8570 EMC No.:1914
    Thank you very much :]
    (I am pretty sure I posted this in the right subcategory, sorry if I did not.)
    None of these model numbers match, but it everything I research says it was from this generation of G4’s. How can I 100% tell which one is the model I have?

    I just finished rebuilding my MDD (FW800). As for finding specific parts for your machine, be sure you have the model number, or are able to differentiate between the models. That being said, most of the case parts are interchangeable. Problems can occur when swapping processors and failing to use the proper heat sink for that processor.
    The best place (price wise versus availability) that I've found for MDD power supplies is on eBay. However, be aware that you will probably be getting it used. So either ask the seller if they will guarantee it for a specified period of time, or buy it from a seller that offers a guarantee (normally 30 days). If you get one that lasts for 30 days without any problems you've probably got a good one. Price is normally around $140 + shipping.
    Another avenue is to try shopping the web (Google) for what you need. There are a number of great websites that carry what you may need, or maybe are looking for. Some of those to checkout are:
    www.applecomponents.com
    www.otherworldcomputing.com
    xlr8yourmac.com
    www.lowendmac.com
    Additionally there are a number of case and power supply mods that can be done to quiet down the MDD. Apple doesn't necessarily endorse these mods, as they deal with changing power supply cooling fans, and/or the processor/case cooling fans. However, if your MDD is out of warranty, you practice safe electrical/static work practices as you're working, and you're willing to accept any negative consequences should those mods either not work properly or they happen to result in damage to other components, then do what you feel is appropriate.
    As for telling exactly which model you have, and how it was originally configured when it shipped from Apple, research the serial number through this Apple website. Another way is to check the model number of the motherboard. This is located near the PCI slots, by the modem connection. It will have a number something like 820-1453-A, or 820-1500-A. Cross referencing these through Google can help tell which motherboard you have. As for the processor, you'll need to carefully remove the heartsink (5 screws) and look at the chip(s) itself. If there are two chips it's a dual processor, and if only one it's a single (Duh!). Then locate the small white sticker that's stuck to the processor card for the processor's info. It should tell you what you need to know about it. You can also look at the info inscribed on the face of each processor chip.
    Important Note: Be very careful, and wear a grounding wristband at all times when when working on the inside, or handling any computer components. This is particularly true when handling the processor card, and here's why. Any static shock from you to the motherboard or to the processor could severely damage or destroy that component.
    Here's another link to way of quieting the MDD.
    http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
    Anyway, I hope these help you find what you need. Be careful!!
    kudzu48

  • My iPod touch 4 generation 32gb sometimes is really slow and when ever I get on a app it will shut it down. My lock botton is broken and I use the accesery botton to lock it. That being said I can't power down my iPod. I need help, I don't know what to do

    My iPod touch 4 generation 32gb sometimes is really slow.When ever my iPod is being slow and I get on an app the app will shut down. My lock botton is broken and I use the accesery botton to lock it. That being said I can't power down my iPod. I need help, I don't know what to do! Could you tell me how I can power down my iPod or how I can fix the slowness and the shutting down of the apps.

    - Periodically double click the home button and close all the apps in the recently used dock. Then power off and then back on the iPod. This frees up memory. The 4G only has 256 MB of memory.
    - Next, reset the iPod
    To reset the iPod without the hardware buttons,
      Reset network settings: Settings>General>Reset>Reset Network Settings. All your wifi and bluetooth preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected. You will have to rejoin wifi networks and repair BT devices
    Then you can try:
    - Restore from backup. See:                                                
    iOS: How to back up                                                                                     
      - Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

  • Zen Vision:M 30GB won't power down; any ide

    I've had a 30GB Zen Vision M for a couple of months now! Awesome player, went through the usual round of recognition problems, but it's been working fine of late. My problem is, it won't power down now. When I try to power down, the unit says it's powering down, the dispaly goes black except for the battery icon. And it stops there. The blue backlight on the menu buttons stays on, the battery icon stays on, and eventually it turns off after 5 minutes because of being idle. Not a terrible problem I know, but a real niusance. I am running the most current firmware (have been for a while). I've tried resetting and clean-up. No change. I'm afraid of trying to reinstall the firmware, in case I have the same problem that many others are having, and go from a good player with a power issue, to a player that does nothing. I can't see it being the power switch itself, since it powers up fine, and tries to power down. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated. birder

    Hello Dsgrov,
    Welcome to Creative forums!
    You can get a lot of results if you search "Zen Vision M not charging" on the search box.
    Here's one, you might want to check this thread.

  • Love my new ipad.  But after upgrading to ios7 Safari became dodgy.  Now it is frozen in a white screen and nothing will free it.  Everything else on the ipad works fine. I deleted data, history, cookies, etc.  Same problem.  No change after power down.

    Everything worked fine on my new ipad.  After I upgraded to ios7 it still worked fine even if it looked very different.  But Safari started acting strangely (it is starting the same thing on my iPhone 4s, too).  Finally, it froze in state with no URL, no keyboard will come up, I can get Safari to close and start, but not actually function.  I went into settings and deleted all the cookies, data, history, and so forth.  Same state.  I powered down the iPad and restarted.  Same state.  I tried a trick were I held down the button to bring up the power down stripe and then holding down the home button.  Same state. 
    What can I do?  Can I delete Safari and re-install it somehow?  Should I take it to an Apple store?

    If powering down with hard reset (press and hold two buttons Power and home) will not give positive results follow that article
    iTunes: Restoring iOS software - Support - Apple
    before you do restore backup using that article
    iOS: How to back up and restore your content - Support - Apple

  • Kernel panic when I power down my Thunderbolt 1 drive AFTER unmounting it

    I've been using a "LaCie d2 USB 3.0/Thunderbolt 4TB" external drive since April 2014, which is connected to my late-2012 iMac via the Thunderbolt 1 port.
    When I'm not using the drive, I first unmount it, and then power it down at the mains.
    This worked fine until 1 Feb 2015, when I started getting a kernel panic every time I power down the drive - after it's been unmounted.
    The issue is 100% reproducible, and it doesn't matter how long I wait between unmounting the drive and powering it down - I've tried waiting several minutes. Powering down the drive ALWAYS causes an instantaneous kernel panic.
    I do not get a kernel panic if I turn off the drive as follows: unmount the drive, disconnect the Thunderbolt cable, power down the drive, and then reconnect the Thunderbolt cable (while the drive is turned off).
    The panic report text is virtually identical each time this occurs. Below is the most recent example.
    Wed Mar 18 23:15:05 2015
    *** Panic Report ***
    panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff800a41a46e): Kernel trap at 0xffffff800a8e9774, type 14=page fault, registers:
    CR0: 0x000000008001003b, CR2: 0x0000000000000000, CR3: 0x000000000d7ff000, CR4: 0x00000000001626e0
    RAX: 0x0000000000070001, RBX: 0xffffff8029f0d800, RCX: 0x666b395f8805008e, RDX: 0xffffff81c9b43088
    RSP: 0xffffff81f7753e90, RBP: 0xffffff81f7753e90, RSI: 0xffffff81c9b43068, RDI: 0x0000000000000000
    R8:  0x0000000000987455, R9:  0xffffff800aa95740, R10: 0x00000416191ecb44, R11: 0x00000416188656ef
    R12: 0xffffff81f7753f50, R13: 0xffffff7f8cfdf044, R14: 0xffffff7f8cff5978, R15: 0xffffff800aad66c0
    RFL: 0x0000000000010202, RIP: 0xffffff800a8e9774, CS:  0x0000000000000008, SS:  0x0000000000000010
    Fault CR2: 0x0000000000000000, Error code: 0x0000000000000000, Fault CPU: 0x0
    Backtrace (CPU 0), Frame : Return Address
    0xffffff81f7753b40 : 0xffffff800a32fe41
    0xffffff81f7753bc0 : 0xffffff800a41a46e
    0xffffff81f7753d80 : 0xffffff800a436683
    0xffffff81f7753da0 : 0xffffff800a8e9774
    0xffffff81f7753e90 : 0xffffff7f8cfdf267
    0xffffff81f7753eb0 : 0xffffff7f8cfe2ad7
    0xffffff81f7753ee0 : 0xffffff7f8cfdf1ed
    0xffffff81f7753f00 : 0xffffff800a3624f9
    0xffffff81f7753fb0 : 0xffffff800a414dd7
          Kernel Extensions in backtrace:
             com.apple.driver.AppleAHCIPort(3.1)[93E1D2EC-50EE-3340-9676-0EA1E0B1AD45]@0xffffff7f8cfdb000->0xffffff7f8cff5fff
                dependency: com.apple.iokit.IOAHCIFamily(2.7.5)[DAF0353B-16D5-385A-A0F3-FD5CF3BA07F2]@0xffffff7f8bc17000
                dependency: com.apple.iokit.IOPCIFamily(2.9)[56AD16B5-4F29-3F74-93E7-D492B3966DE2]@0xffffff7f8ab9b000
    BSD process name corresponding to current thread: kernel_task
    Mac OS version:
    14C1510
    Kernel version:
    Darwin Kernel Version 14.1.0: Thu Feb 26 19:26:47 PST 2015; root:xnu-2782.10.73~1/RELEASE_X86_64
    Kernel UUID: [snip]
    Kernel slide:     0x000000000a000000
    Kernel text base: 0xffffff800a200000
    __HIB  text base: 0xffffff800a100000
    System model name: iMac13,2 (Mac-FC02E91DDD3FA6A4)
    System uptime in nanoseconds: 4492947384197
    last loaded kext at 1200852616389: com.apple.filesystems.smbfs     3.0.0 (addr 0xffffff7f8d0f5000, size 389120)
    last unloaded kext at 368737361800: com.apple.filesystems.msdosfs     1.10 (addr 0xffffff7f8d0f5000, size 61440)
    loaded kexts:
    com.globaldelight.driver.VoilaDevice     1.1
    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.snowleopard     5.9.1
    de.rme-audio.driver.RMEFirefaceUSB     2.04
    at.obdev.nke.LittleSnitch     4234
    [snip]
    Model: iMac13,2, BootROM IM131.010A.B05, 4 processors, Intel Core i7, 3.4 GHz, 16 GB, SMC 2.11f14
    Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680MX, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680MX, PCIe, 2048 MB
    Memory Module: BANK 0/DIMM0, 8 GB, DDR3, 1600 MHz, 0x02FE, 0x45424A3831554738424255352D474E2D4620
    Memory Module: BANK 1/DIMM0, 8 GB, DDR3, 1600 MHz, 0x02FE, 0x45424A3831554738424255352D474E2D4620
    AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x14E4, 0xF4), Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (7.15.159.13.12)
    Bluetooth: Version 4.3.2f6 15235, 3 services, 19 devices, 1 incoming serial ports
    Network Service: Ethernet, Ethernet, en0
    Serial ATA Device: APPLE SSD SM768E, 751.28 GB
    USB Device: Rugged Mini USB 3.0
    USB Device: XD-0608-U
    USB Device: Hub
    USB Device: Babyface (23189963)
    USB Device: Keyboard Hub
    USB Device: Apple Keyboard
    USB Device: FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
    USB Device: Hub
    USB Device: Hub
    USB Device: BRCM20702 Hub
    USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller
    Thunderbolt Bus: iMac, Apple Inc., 23.4

    Thanks Linc, that's good to know.
    I'll carry on using my workaround (disconnecting the Thunderbolt cable before I power down the drive), until the next version of Yosemite is released; then I'll test again.

  • Internal iMac hard drive keeps trying to power down without my consent

    How do you stop an internal hard drive from shutting down when you didn't ask it to?
    Background:
    I use Missing Sync for Palm to sync my Palm handheld with my iMac. My Palm has a SD card slot it in and the sync software came with a program that allows me to mount the
    SD card as an external drive on my iMac. From there, I can add podcasts, music or whatever I want directly to the card. I have used this software since March with no problems.
    Also, when you put my computer to sleep or shut it down, there is a click and then the internal hard drive shuts down.
    Last night, I activated the program to mount the SD card to my iMac and instead of it mounting, the iMac's internal hard drive started trying to shut down.
    I have used this program many, many times to mount the SD card to my iMac with absolutely no problem. It was weird this time because I kept hearing that clicking noise. The computer became extremely sluggish. To me, it appeared that the internal hard drive was trying to shut down. After about 4-5 clicks, it succeeded and the computer froze.
    Since that time, shortly after you turn the iMac on, you hear that clicking noise trying to power down the hard drive. Sometimes, it just takes a few clicks and the hard drive shuts off. Sometimes the computer will boot all the way up, I can log in and launch a program before it shuts off and the computer freezes. While I can't check the drive with First Aid or Diskwarrior because it shuts off before I can scan it, I assume the data and the drive are ok because I have been able to successfully boot from it and log into my account but shortly after I log in, the hard drive shuts down and the computer is stuck.
    Any ideas? Any help would be wonderful!

    You are right. It is failing. I took my Mac into the Apple Store and talked with a genius. Although the hard drive would not do what it had at home (typical when you're trying to get something diagnosed) I shut it down so he could hear the noise I do.
    Sure enough, he said the noise I heard was the drive read head hitting its start position. When a hard drive shuts down, the drive head moves out of the way since the "hard disk" is actually a thin floppy magnetic disc. The noise I kept hearing was indeed the drive trying to shut down.
    Fortunately, I did make a clone of my internal drive to that external drive 6 months ago so I was (eventually) able to copy over all the important files, update the external clone and boot off of it.
    Sure enough, tonight, I opened Disk Utility and it said in plain red letters that the drive had reported a hardware failure and should be replaced.
    Since my iMac is Summer 2001, the Mac Genius said they no longer carry parts for it so he gave me the name of a local place that would be glad to fix it up. I called them and luck would have it that they were completely out of the internal drives used by my model iMac. So I have to check next week to see if they have received more in yet.
    The good news is I can get a slightly larger interal hard drive since I was down to 10GB of a 60GB factory drive. So far, I hear I can go as high as 160GB but the RPM must be lower since my iMac has no fans.
    Thanks for your help! As much as I didn't want to believe it, you hit the problem right on.

  • Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

    I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
    Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
    However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
    To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
    Thanks.
    G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

    Thanks, Grant
    Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
    On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
    And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
    There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
    So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
    G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

  • How to scale down number of pages in ps files

    I am having ps files that are havings 4 to 8  pages per file. Each page may contain just 5-6 lines and therefore though the content in total is not too much but there is unnecessay paper wastage.
    Is it possible to make some changes in code inside ps files throgh notepad so that the content may be restricted to lesser number of pages. I am having programing skill in vfp,need guidance that what changes i need to do in ps script and where.
    my sample ps file can be downloaded from
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/l9n3juzltlajki2/1010568351.ps
    Code is also replicated here
    %!PS-Adobe-3.0
    %Creator: iECCM
    %Version: 0.1
    %%Pages: 4
    /d{def}bind def/b{bind d}bind d/X1 0 d/Y1 0 d/SG{setgray}b/g{gsave}b/l1{rlineto}b/m{moveto}b/n{newpath}b/o{closepath}b/r{lineto}b/s{s how}b/c{clip}b/z{stroke}b
    /A{n arc}b/B{0 SG}b/C1{n m curveto}b/D 0 d/E{0.78 SG}b/F{findfont exch scalefont setfont}b/G{grestore}b/H1{n 0 5 Y1 {0 exch m X1 0 l1} for z}b
    /J{rectclip}b/K{0.79 SG}b/L{n m r z}b/M{0 0 m}b/N{0.80 SG}b/O{rotate}b/P{setlinecap}b/Q{setrgbcolor}b/R{n 4 -2 roll m dup 0 exch l1 exch 0 l1 neg 0 exch l1 o}b
    /S{[] 0 h}b/T{translate}b/U1{showpage}b/V1{n 0 5 X1 {0 m 0 Y1 l1} for z}b/W1{1 SG}b/w{m s}b
    /a{stringwidth}b/v{rmoveto}b/w1{setlinewidth}b/h{setdash}b/wc{w1 Q}b
    /t{D arct}b
    /u{a exch currentpoint 3 -1 roll dup neg I 10 div neg v 0 l1 I 20 div w1 z m}b
    /st{a exch currentpoint 3 -1 roll dup neg I 3 div v 0 l1 I 20 div w1 z m}b
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    U1

    thanks, i am trying to do that. in case I will need your help i will contact u again.
    one more doubt.
    F8 B (Recurring Charges)38 759 w
    what does F8 B 38 759 & w denotes in the above string
    what does y & z denote
    and what means
    /F15{/I 7.5 Fn2}b
    On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 23:29:23 +0530  wrote
        Re: How to scale down number of pages in ps files
        created by abeddie in PostScript Programming - View the full discussion
    Remember this is just a sample of what you could do and when your jobs changewhat you do would have to change. The edits are:1) find the %%Page 3 32) change the line above from: U1 to %U13) add the line: 0 792 ypos 72 sub sub neg translate4) Find the line with the smallest y position: F8 (Total Discounts \(Rs.\))38 523 w5) Add this line below: currentpoint /ypos exch def pop %added repeat steps 1-5 for but use for step 1:%%Page 4 4 and step 4: F14 (For BB 1 Unit = 1 KB)38 716 w       old before page 3%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%F8 (Total Discounts \(Rs.\))38 523 w(-386.00)568 523 xg nF2 B (Plan    LO-KAR-LO-BAAT-OTHER)13 775 wGg nF2 B (Phone Number / UserName    0731-2484034)580 775 xGU1%%Page: 3 3%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%     old before page 4%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%F14 (For BB 1 Unit = 1 KB)38 716 wg nF2 B (Plan    RENT-FREE-SECOND-PHONE)13 775 wGg nF2 B (Phone Number / UserName    0731-2484033)580 775 xGU1%%Page: 4 4%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%     new before page 3%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%F8 (Total Discounts \(Rs.\))38 523 wcurrentpoint /ypos exch def pop %added(-386.00)568 523 xg nF2 B (Plan    LO-KAR-LO-BAAT-OTHER)13 775 wGg nF2 B (Phone Number / UserName    0731-2484034)580 775 xG%U1 %commented out0 792 ypos 72 sub sub neg translate % added%%Page: 3 3%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%     new before page 4%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%currentpoint /ypos exch def pop %addedg nF2 B (Plan    RENT-FREE-SECOND-PHONE)13 775 wGg nF2 B (Phone Number / UserName    0731-2484033)580 775 xG 0 792 ypos 72 sub sub neg translate%U1 %commented out%%Page: 4 4%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% 3
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