How to use spot healing more efficiently on PE9

i have been trying to take that man in blue out of the picture using spot healing. it is especially hard when his upper body is in the tree area and spot healing just trying to cover with trees that doesn't match the surrounding area (i want it to look like grass and tree trunk in the background). which method should i use to take the man out without cropping the picture?

If you use the spot healing brush with the content aware option checked,
you can get decent results. One of the keys is to isolate the object (man)
to a new layer and use the spot healing brush on that layer.
1. Duplicate your layer
2. Make a selection around the man, leaving plenty of area for spot healing brush
    to sample from.
3. Right click with the mouse inside the selection and choose layer via copy.
4. Choose the spot healing brush with content aware checked and sample all
    layers unchecked.
5. Use the spot healing brush on the man. For this picture it took four passes with spot
    healing brush.
6. Use the clone stamp tool and add some grass to lower right corner of the photo
   (Sample the layer the layer below)
7. Add a layer mask and using the brush tool set to white, touch up some of the bad areas.
If you want more of the tree and other areas around the leaves,
the clone stamp tool is the tool to use.
MTSTUNER

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I think you're on the healing brush tool rather than the spot healing brush.

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If you are using track pad, please use mouse and see if your issue is resolved.
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Here's a quick video that covers how to use the Spot Healing Brush Tool:
If you're still having problems with the Spot Healing Brush Tool, you may want to try using the Healing Brush Tool. This tool allows for more refined spot clean-up, as I will demonstrate below.
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I guess you meant the healing brush? (the clone overlay is not supposed to be active with the
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R_Kelly, I appreciate your attempt at explaining this. But I think you should know after I scanned the old B&W photographic print as a 16bit RGB tiff, I selected out the red channel, converted the image to grayscale and edited to final tonality. After that I converted to ProPhotoRGB (dithering off-16bit), duped the image and applied a sepia effect using Photo Filter on one copy, another sepia colorization in Variation on the other and combined the two blending at 50% opacity. (Note: to add this sepia effect I was forced to work in 8 bit, but these artifacts showed up even in other scans of old B&W photos in 16 bit color).
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