How to view PDF files in Safari

Hi,
I can't view PDFs in Safari since updating to 5.1. I just get the annoying dark-grey screen
I don't have Adobe Reader/Pro installed, I don't have the internet plugin, I have tried running the phrase in Terminal that is supposed to tell Safari to open PDFs not get another program to (cut and paste into terminal as is from various other threads) and I have tried downloading the file form this address: http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/22361/safari-display-or-download-pdf-files (incidentally, I can't download it because Safari tries to open the .dmg file in a new tab, but that doesn't work, nor does OPT-click -> Download linked file allow me to download it).
I've been to the Genius Bar at that local Apple store and the tech couldn't help - even though she looked at the problem for about 30 mins.
Does anyone know of any other possible fixes for this incredicbly annoying problem?
Cheers
Sean..

Please enable guest logins and log in as Guest. Test. Same problem?
Mac OS X 10.6 Help: Creating a guest user account

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