HP 2600n printing dark shade over graphics

Hi.
Never had this issue it seems like a corrupt print driver or bad one. I am running 10.6.5 and latest HP drivers being version 2.5.2. When printing it prints text fine but any pictures or graphics it has a dark shadow over it.
I first noticed it trying to print a USPS label the other day and just tried printing another file and doing the same thing. I don't think anything has changed except for updates. I'm kinda thinking HP driver update 2.5.2 did this.
Anyone else running the same setup having issues??
Thanks in adannce!!

Well tried a bunch of things like uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the 2.5.2 HP package and no luck. Tried to install the HP drivers from 10.6.0 but that didn't seem to work or atleast install the drivers for my printer. Also tried resetting the printing system without luck as well. So I went back in Time Machine and pulled out older drivers and that seems to have did the trick. So something seems to be screwy with the 2.5.2 drivers as it seems alot of people are having problems.

Similar Messages

How do I prevent the Darker Shade Box (color shift) around Vector Objects when Printing

Sorry in advance for the novelette. I am absolutely mystified and frustrated and would love some help! I've been working on this problem for about 30 hours over the last 4 days to figure out what the heck is happening and cannot find an answer through various forms of research.
Basically, when I print a JPEG, I am getting this area (a box) of darker shaded coloring around my heart and love text. I've tested it a million different ways and am at a loss as to what the problem is ... is it an application problem, a color profile problem between my applications and printer, an improper way that I saved my file, etc.
Here is a photo I took of the image printed out (so it is slightly skewed from camera distortion):
The details:
(1) I create graphic art and sell it online. I save all of my printable art as JPEG files because of my customer base (diy hobbyists that print on their home printers without much knowledge base nor graphic design software).
(2) I use both Adobe Illustrator (AI) and Photoshop Elements 11 (PSE11) to design and save my artwork.
(3) I insert JPEG images into Microsoft Word 2003 documents to "test print" since most of my customers use home printers to print. Since most people have this basic software, it is a good gauge of the kind of print out they might get using the same or similar software.
(4) My PSE11 color profile setting is the default sRGB. I have test printed many times and I get the truest colors with this color profile.
(5) My AI color settings are normally also an sRGB color mode, but on occasion, I use a CMYK color mode if I am creating a larger document that I know the customer will need to take to a professional printer to print out.
(6) I do my home printing (for proofs) on an Epson Stylus Photo 1400 (which has the 6 color ink cartridges).
(7) Until this printing problem occurred on this test print out, I always used the "photo enhance" option when I designate settings for my printer via the Microsoft Word documents.
IMPORTANT: This is when I have the color shift?? or color rendering issues?? and it is the only time. If I use the regular ICM/ICC color profile of sRGB, the printing issue doesn't occur. Instead, I have a solid color background instead of this one with the strips of lighter color on the top and bottom. However, I can't control how the customer prints, so I need to feel confident that whatever color profile setting they use, they will not run into this problem. I even test printed the documents over at FedEx and the darker box/color shift did not occur.
(8) The document in question only has 3 sets of objects: the heart, the solid colored rectangle colored background and the text. All 3 objects are vectors, they are at 100% opacity and there are no "special effects" applied.
(9) The image was entirely created in AI this time and exported as a maximum quality JPEG file, although you will see below that I tried many ways to create and save the file so that I didn't have the color band borders on top/bottom.
(10) I regularly use AI for part of my art, then I drag it to my PSE11 open document and it becomes a Vector Object (it cannot by copying/pasting into a PSE11 document). I also regularly export AI images as PNG files, then insert them into an open PSE11 document. This printing issue has not occurred until recently. Here is an example of a very complex AI image I created, then inserted into PSE11 just to add the background (the Teddy Bear and books are AI vector objects) that were exported as PNG files then inserted into PSE11 to integrate with the background image - I test printed with Photo Enhance and had no printing issues:
So, from the research I have done, it looks like it is a color rendering or color space issue with conflicting color profiles in the same document. I checked my color profile settings and both sRGB and CMYK were set to embed ICC color profiles.
I tried changing AI settings to Preserve Numbers (ignore linked profiles) for CMYK, but that didn't work.
I also checked and made sure that not only the document setup showed the sRGB color profile, but that all the objects within the document also were converted to sRGB as well for consistency. That didn't work.
I tried converting the document to CMYK along with the vector objects. That didn't work.
I tried saving the heart image as a PNG file alone, the "love" text as a PNG file alone, both the heart and text together as a PNG files alone. Once saved as PNG files, I inserted them into an open empty PSE11 document - as I normally do. I then added the background color I wanted. That didn't work - the print still showed the color changes.
I tried dragging each vector object separately and even as a group and got the same color change issue when printing.
I tried "expanding" and "outlining" the text before exporting as JPEG, before exporting as a PNG and before dragging as a vector object into PSE11. Expanding the text did not help the situation.
I tried exporting as Adobe PDF, then opening in PSE11, then resaving as JPEG. That didn't work.
I tried flattening transparency (even though there is no transparency in the AI file). That didn't work.
I tried rasterizing the image. That didn't work.
Thinking that the file might be corrupt, I started from scratch and redesigned the same heart and love text. Unfortunately, I had the same problem as before. At this point, my AI started becoming buggy and would not open new files. It happened repeatedly and I decided it was best to uninstall and reinstall AI (and maybe that would fix the problem).
I created just the heart in AI, then inserted it into an open PSE11 document (both after exporting as PNG and also by dragging as Vector Object from AI). It seemed to work. I could both drag the vector into PSE11 from AI and export from AI as a PNG, then insert into open PSE11 document with a background color - and it printed a solid background.
So, I thought that reinstalling and setting back to defaults worked. But, then I added the love text around the heart and tried exporting as JPEG files and the same problem continued to recur. Whether I dragged as a Vector object into PSE11 (the heart object and love text separately and also another time with the vector objects dragged as a group) or saved them as PNG files and inserted into PSE11 - I got the different shades of color on what should be a solid background. I even tried saving the PSE11 as a PSD file first, then resaving as JPEG and I tried saving as PNG and printing and this didn't help solve the problem.
I really think it is some color conflict issue but I can't figure it out. I am definitely not very knowledgeable about color profiles and how to sync all my devices, however, as I mentioned, this was not an issue until recently (and I think??? I recall changing the CMYK setting from Preserve Numbers to embed color profile a month or so ago - however, it should have been solved when AI went back to its defaults upon reinstall).
The reason I believe it is a color rendering/color space issue is because I could see the color output when I saved the JPEG with CMYK color profile versus sRGB color profile and the sRGB colors were much richer, not surprisingly. The top and bottom colors matched the sRGB printout and the middle darker box section matched the CMYK printout.
I am sure it is something fundamental or simple and I am completely overlooking it. I wish it were just a transparency issue, because people know how to fix or do workarounds for it. But, there are no vector objects with any transparency ...
If I missed some detail, I apologize. Any help would be a dream come true at this point! lol
Thank you!

Okay, I got motivated to try again. From doing a bit more research on troubleshooting AI printing problems, the Adobe article talks about print drivers. It was advised to uninstall and reinstall the print driver if the printing issue persists. So, I did. Unfortunately, I still had the same result after reinstalling and trying a test print! Ugh.
So, as Jacob said upfront, I seem to have an overactive print driver that is trying too hard (and it is a non-postscript printer which I realize is part of the problem).
There are so many variables in my situation as to how I create art and save/export art. I sometimes work solely in AI, sometimes solely in PSE and sometimes I use both programs to create. Consequently, I will:
(1) export directly from AI as JPEG if I am not adding PSE11 artwork.
(2) export directly from AI as PNG if I plan on inserting that image into PSE11 to add to artwork I have created in PSE11.
(3) drag vector objects as a Smart Objects directly from AI to PSE11 to add to artwork I am creating in PSE11 if I know I will playing with the vector object and resizing in PSE11.
So, I did a test print using scenario 2, where I inserted the heart and love text PNG (AI created vector object) into an old PSE11 document. This old document already had a vector object from AI with a solid background and I knew it printed correctly. So, after inserting this new PNG from AI into this old document, it printed correctly using the photo enhance mode.
However, I haven't had a chance to actually create new art in the older AI files (that I know print properly), resave as something else and try another test print (either by exporting as JPEG and printing in Word or by exporting as PNG file and inserting into PSE11 document, then saving as JPEG and printing in Word).
After testing the different possibilities of ICM settings within my printer, I found that the JPEG images printed out with the truest colors and best quality if I simply selected "no color management" from the printer. Shocker, huh? lol
MY SOLUTION: So, what I think I will simply do is add an instruction sheet with the printables I sell, explaining that the color profile setting should never be handled by the printer so make sure to turn off color management by printer (and if they feel they must use the printer for color management, make sure the setting is sRGB since I embed that color profile in my JPEG's).
Edited to add: Since my issue was never about how I could print a successful image (I knew I could simply change the color profile settings), but rather about how to make sure that customers would get consistent and high quality print outputs of my digital images, this seems like the best approach.
I don't think I will every really know exactly why I am now getting color shifts in the "photo enhance" mode when I did not have this problem a couple months ago - applying the same methods of creating artwork. I was concerned that I was saving/exporting using incorrect or mismatched color settings or something of that nature. However, since I went through the process of making my color spaces the same for everything, and I still have issue, clearly that is not the culprit. The only thing I can do to solve the problem and it is a straightforward solution anyway -> is to educate the buyer on how to print successfully (don't use photo enhance! ha ha).
Thanks again to everyone who chimed in and offered advice!

My Macbook wont turn on, it gets pasted the White Apple screen then goes to a Blue screen that quickly turns a slightly darker shade of blue with the familiar loading icon then back again and does this over and over. What should I do? please help!

So today my iPhone decides to go into recovery mode on me randomly so I plugged it into my Macbook right away, but it wasn't showing up in iTunes so I did a quick internet search as to why that could be. On the Mac support forum I found instructions stating I should make sure I had the current verison of iTunes on my computer, turns out I had been putting off an Update because I didn't like waiting for it to restart n so forth. So I clicked my boucning update friend at the bottom of my screen and it started checking for updates, the bar got maybe a quarter of the way up and then stopped moving all together, I thought something was wrong so I clicked cancel and tried again. The same thing happened so I clicked cancel and went back to the Internet to find more help on my problems. I found yet another forum saying this solution was simple, restart the computer. So i clicked my little apple at the top and pressed restart and that has been the last thing I got to do on my computer because when it restarted it got past the White Apple logo screen and went on to a Blue screen which quickly turned a darker shade and had the loading circle, then back to the previous blue screen, then right back to the darker one. This process it repeated several times and I can't for the life of me figure out what to do. Please someone have a simple answer to this that I haven't Already tried, I have already tried safe mode and it just doesn't work for me. Please please help I need my computer for class it has all my notes and a paper I was doing, not to mention my iphone is still in recovery mode, even when I can get to another computer to fix that I need all the back up files off of my macbook to restore it to what I know it as and not default.

Reset the PRAM
Reinstall the operating system from the dvd (you will not loose your data)

Printing Dark Area in smartforms

Hi All,
I am having problem with printing graphics in Smartform. In preview it is okay.. But when I print it ..it is just printing Dark black area. I am expereincing same problem with Table Hedings. Please let me know ..What could be the error.
Thanks in Advance.
Good Wishes
Venkat Reddy

hi,
try this out...
Go to transaction SE78.
SAPSCRIPT GRAPHICS --> STORED ON DOCUMENT SERVER --> GRAPHICS --> BMAP
Enter the name of the graphics file on the right side and Go to the menu GRAPHIC --> IMPORT.
OR
RUN THE PROGRAM RSTXLDMC FOR UPLOADING THE IMAGE AND THEN IN THE SCRIPT GIVE
:/ INCLUDE ZLOGO OBJECT TEXT ID ST LANGUAGE EN.
HOPE THIS HELPS,
THANKS,
PRIYA.

Color printing help with large graphics Reader 11.0.3

Good morning! We recently upgraded to 11.0.3. Windows 7 64-bit. We've had issues printing large color graphics from Reader 11.
For example, the PDF will have an intricate purple graphic with matching purple text blocks underneath. Print preview shows correctly, but when printed the graphic prints brown instead of purple. The purple text blocks print correctly. This seems to happen sporadically, but seems to be with complex graphics.
Documents from all other apps print OK and if we open this .pdf from Acrobat X Standard and export it to a .png file the colors print correctly.
The graphic files come from a myriad of sources and customers and we don't have control over the way the documents are originally saved or what apps are used to create the artwork.
Any idea why the graphics colors aren't printing and if there are settings we can adjust in Reader 11 so they will print correctly?
We've tried:
- Printing to several printers with different drivers and all yield the same results. (Toshiba eStudio 3530c with PCL6 and PS drivers, Epson Artisan 835, HP OfficeJet 8600, Samsung CLX-6200x)
- Adjusting the Overprint Preview settings under File -> Preferences and setting "Simulate Overprinting" under the Advanced button in the print preview window.
- Selecting "Print As Image" under the Advanced button in the print preview window.
- Adjusting the Document Color Options under File -> Preferences -> Accessibility.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Fastest thing you can try: use Windows Explorer to navigate to C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Reader 11.0\Reader, then double-click on Eula.exe and accept the license agreement.
If that doesn't work, you can try using this tool to first remove all traces of Reader from your computer:
http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/acrobatcleaner.html
Then, you can download the full offline Reader installer from
http://get.adobe.com/reader/enterprise/
After downloading, restart your computer and run the installer before doing anything else.

Printing dark when using shared printer

I am having problems getting Lightroom 2 to print correctly when printing to a shared Epson 4000.
When printing to the 4000 as a local printer everything works as it should. But when I try to print to the same printer, with the same settings as a shared printer in a small network the prints turn out too dark and with colour casts.
Using epson profiles and pointing lightroom to the correct profile. Setting printer driver correctly (when i print the from photoshop CS2 it prints correctly, even when using a shared printer).
Epson 4000 using the latest 3.09 driver. OSX 10.4.10 on imac G5.
Any help appriciated, strange that everything works great on a local printer but not on the same printer when shared over the network (printersharing in OSX)
Am certain I have profile selection and printer driver settings correct ( after all it works from photoshop and locally).

Dear Larry,
Thanks for reporting the problem. You mentioned that page content is getting shifted by around 3/8 inches when printed using Mac Airprint using Acrobat which resulted in clipping of some of the content and other applications print fine.
Could you please pass on the same pdf to me as well? Although, it doesnot look dependent on any particular pdf but I would like to analyze certain behavior with the pdf you are using.
Please also confirm that you have not printed with "None" pagescaling option when you observed this.
Thansk,
Atul

LR3: Exports are dark and over-saturated

... or: LR3 shows everything dull and to light...
I've upload an image and described my problem her:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tcdk/4753052290/
But here it is:
I'm having some color and curve problems with my exports, it all looks to dark and to saturated when I export from Lightroom 3. So I'm trying to figure out what's happening.
Here's the setup:
Windows XP
Nvidia 8600GT graphics card
One Dell 2407WFPHC screen
One Dell 2408WFP screen (my main)
Huey Pro color calibration kit (software version 1.51)
Everything calibrated. It looks good to me when I import in lightroom (from raw from Pentax K20D, and Panasonic LX3)
Exporting to jpeg (sRGB) or tiff and viewing in anything else the colors are darker and over-saturated (tried in firefox (profile aware), Internet Explorer, irfanview and chrome). Loading the jpeg into Lightroom and comparing it to the RAW, they look the same (not dark or over-saturated).
What you see above is a screen grab, of a test chart viewed in Lightroom and IrfanView. They where just imported/loaded - nothing was done. No development settings are applied as part of my LR3 import.
The colors in lightroom 3 are dull compared to the IrfanView.
Sample rgb values:
1 red:
Lightroom 224,52,27 (not that pure)
Irfanview 254,0,0 (~pure red)
4 purple:
Lightroom: 124,1,251
irfanview: 131,0,254
9 green:
lightroom: 126,255,54 (far from pure green)
irfanview: 0,255,3 (pure green)
The red and the green are the worst - a lot more "energy" in them. So imagine the reverse process. I've a photo in Lightroom and it looks good to me. I export it and every 126,255,54 gets made into pure green. Darker and over-saturated!
I've no idea what's happning or what to do about it. I've tried everything I can think about.
I don't really think I had this issue with LR2 - not enough to notice anyway.
System info:
Lightroom version: 3.0 [677000]
Operating system: Microsoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 3 (Build 2600)
Version: 5.1 [2600]
Application architecture: x86
System architecture: x86
Physical processor count: 2
Processor speed: 1,8 GHz
Built-in memory: 3007,1 MB
Real memory available to Lightroom: 716,8 MB
Real memory used by Lightroom: 278,4 MB (38,8%)
Virtual memory used by Lightroom: 266,7 MB
Memory cache size: 49,7 MB
System DPI setting: 96 DPI
Displays: 1) 1200x1920, 2) 1920x1200
Application folder: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3
Library Path: P:\Lightroom\Lightroom 3 Catalog\Lightroom 3 Catalog\Lightroom 3 Catalog.lrcat
Settings Folder: C:\Documents and Settings\Thomas Christensen\Application Data\Adobe\Lightroom

So in my case it seems I'm better off running uncalibrated as that seems to produce something more natural across the board than when I use calibration and it goes between extremes, fine or totally wrong... I can see the images fine on my controlled environment but if you're distributing online then things don't work out at all!
This is a very common misconception. Needless to say it is wrong. the only way you can get reasonable colors on everybody else's monitors is to calibrate your display and only trust color managed apps. If you don't calibrate and don't use color managed apps, your output will basically be completely random. At least with calibration and management you will be targeting the standard (sRGB) that most monitors cluster around (that's what they were designed to), so while individual monitors will be more or less random, on average they will show what you intended. If you don't calibrate and manage you will target only your specific monitor. Since this is a wide gamut display, the average viewer (who doesn't calibrate nor color manage) will see a dull desaturated image with respect to what you see.
Bottom line: If you use a wide gamut monitor, calibrate and only trust color managed apps. If you have a normal gamut monitor, calibrate and trust color managed apps the most, but non managed apps will be OK if you use sRGB as your export space. You cannot do away with the calibration step if you care about what others will see.

PS CS4 printing dark; LR 2.2 printing fine

Printing with the same profile, same intent, same computer, same printer. PS and LR do the color management and the printer doesn't.
At some point with CS3, PS started printing dark. This has carried over to CS4. Lightroom printing is fine.
Ideas? I don't have a clue.
Thanks, Hal

Hi DYP,
I apologize if people thought I was making political or some other kind of statement. Yes, help is what I'm after.
OS: 10.5.5
Printer: Epson 2200
Driver: 3.09 (found that in /Library/Printer/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/SP2200.plugin)
LR 2.2: in the Print Setting, I'm using No Color Management and in the Print Job panel Color Management is set to an appropriate profile from Ilford matching the paper, inkset, and printer, Rendering Intent is Relative.
PS CS4: Color Handling is set to Photoshop Manages Colors, the same profile is being used as in LR, Rendering Intent is Relative Colorimetric.
Driver settings: Color management is set to No Color Adjustment
I've tested with the same photo on several occasions. I typically use a working space of ProPhoto RGB. Images look the same in both PS and LR on screen.
Haven't done anything with a control photo. Don't know anything about them.
I profile the monitor monthly with a Spyder.
When I say that the prints look dark in PS compared to LR, I'm guessing it's around 2 to 3 EV darker. Color is OK.
A few months ago, when I profiled my monitor (iMac), I set the gamma to 2.2 on advice from others. At that point, I noticed that my prints were dark. I subsequently profiled it back to 1.8. I believe that printing with PS CS3 was fine at that point. I wasn't printing with LR then. I upgraded to PS CS4. I may have changed my default color space from Adobe RGB to ProPhoto RGB. But, I would think that it would just get out of gamut issues if this was the problem.
Thanks, Hal

Pixma Pro 100 printing dark and muddy

Hi,
I have seen several threads about this and tried to read those over and learn from them first but I'll admit to being so lost.
I've had the printer since August and previously had a PC with Windows 8. Since December, I've been using a Mac. With both computers, though, I always got dark and muddy prints, especially with blues and greens. I have installed drivers and looked for any software updates and the Canon website says I'm up to date. But when I go to print something, in the drop down box there are two options for paper - plain and photo. With my PC, there were a dozen or more options (matte paper, glossy paper, art paper, etc.).
I have installed ICC profiles from Red River Paper, as I did with the PC.
On a previous thread, I saw to go to Canon My Printer and then to settings. I'm guessing that's software? I don't seem to have that on my computer. I looked online and it came up on various software download sites but not the Canon web site. I am leery about installing from one of those web sites so I didn't.
After reading another thread, I went in to PhotoShop and selected a different color space (Adobe 1998).
I apologize for being so lost but apparently I am in need of super-simplified instructions. I cannot seem to figure this out. It's so frustrating and discouraging. I appreciate any help!
Thank you!

First, you must not let the printer set anything. Turn off every bit off control it has. You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab. Do you know how? I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop) handle all the settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop.
And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing. Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off. If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps. However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-ins to do this. No additional software or gadgets, no spiders or monkeys, etc.
But you must get the gray-scale very close. You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
Most folks set there brightness way too high by default. This presents a big problem when judging prints. You need to judge your prints in good light, preferably daylight. Again they may be correct and you don't know it.
After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen. Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level. One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you saw it. It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others. My goal is to get the skin tones right. That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here. One is colored light and the other is colored dyes. They are not the same thing.
For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print darker than what I see on the monitor (typical for most users). So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case. It also prints with a slightly warn tone. Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not. In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast. Canon engineers must prefer this look. It can not be changed. You need to "fix" it in post. You will also likely see a color tint even in your B&W prints. This is normal.
Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer. Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not. This is a must!
Important to, use the USB connection until everything is right. You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time. Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go. Use a real printer USB cable. Not just any old USB cable.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

2600n printing grayish back ground.

Greetings, my 2600n prints a light grayish back ground like the texture of wall paper 80% of the time. Some printing jobs are darker than others. Color is still great! What could be the cause of this? Any suggestions? Thanksan smileytongue:

i think the transfer belt is faulty in ur printer.

Unable to print crystal report over web using ActiveX Control

Post Author: jimmyp
CA Forum: General
We have a problem with printing crystal report over web using ActiveX Control. When clicking print button, it only shows a blank dialog web crystal viewer page without any error. The page just simply hangs. We installed the PrintControl DLL and enable all the security setting for ActiveX Control for IE. It still does not print. Does anyone know why?
Environment.
Bundle Crystal Report v10
Asp.net 2.0
IE 6.0 or higher.
Appreciate for your help.
Jimmy

Post Author: Ian Kulmatycki
CA Forum: General
A team member here found this, I haven't read it, I'm not sure if our problems are related to this, but hopefully it helps someone:
-ian
When Secure Sockets Layer (SSL) is enabled, using the ActiveX control to print reports from a Crystal 10 DHTML viewer results in the following error message:
"A communication error occurred, printing will be stopped."
How can this error message be resolved?
Resolution
This is a known issue with Crystal Reports 10 and Crystal Enterprise 10 viewers and has been tracked. The Track ID is ADAPT00282199.
This error occurs due to the receiving application performing a case-sensitive check for the HTTPS request header value "ON". When a sender application sends the value as "on" in lower case, the error occurs. The update below changes the receiving application to be case-insensitive.
Hot Fixes or Service Packs address this issue as indicated below. With the updates, this issue is resolved.
Unless indicated otherwise, Weekly Hot Fix updates from our FTP site have only been tested with English versions of products.
For Crystal Reports 10 and Crystal Enterprise 10, the update for this issue is included in the Crystal 10 Viewers Weekly Hot Fix (WHF). This is available in English only at the following location:
ftp://ftp.crystaldecisions.com/outgoing/EHF/viewers10win_en.zip
This issue is addressed in the following components (and later versions):
PageObjectModel.dll, version 10.0.5.785, dated 8/25/2004
ReportRenderer.dll, version 10.0.5.785, dated 8/25/2004
WebReporting.dll, version 10.0.5.785, dated 8/25/2004

HP LaserJet P1102w prints EXTREMELY slow over Wi-Fi

I've been struggling with this problem for a long time, but today this totally freaked me out. I was ready to throw away this piece of ..printer! Problem is simple. When I'm trying to print wirelessly something with graphics (jpeg pictures or photos) from my iPhone, iPad iOS 8.4 or MacBook OS X 10.10 Yosemite, it takes forever! Word document, PDF, from Preview or other programs - same result! I just couldn't pring 9 page document today, after 20 minutes I gave up. What's happening. Let's say I'm using mac. Print task goes to printer queue, as usual. After that, this task shows in queue as "connecting to printer", green light starts blinking on printer, as usual. This is taking a minute or two, that's what unusual. After that, "starting printing page 1". It can take 1, 2, 3 minutes... forever! Next, either ONE page actually prints (for 5-7 minute mark at this point) and it takes same time to print page two and so on, or (likely) it will spit out unfinished page (only couple of inches printed and the rest of the page is blank) and show an error, orange light blinking. UGH!!! I gave up on iPhone/iPad long time ago, since they can't show print queue and therefore it's unpredictable result. You can wait 10 minutes for your document, then leave, and later on just find the document printed when you no longer need it (or half of the document). I do not have this problem when printing just text, emails, simple confirmation pages from safari and so on. Only when printing document with graphics or heavy pdf. I do not have this problem when connecting printer via USB (discovered this today). Now what really bugs me, it's the fact that I was actually able to print heavy PDF from Windows machine with no problem, wirelessly (I did have problem printing exact same document from my mac). WHAT IS GOING ON?! I've googled this problem and found that I'm not alone. I've updated all software and firmware, I've tried to reset everything - NO DICE! This is really very frustrating. I was thinking this is because of small memory of the printer, but why it works perfectly via USB then? Anyway, this is a cry from the heart. Please help. The printer is good, but unusabe in some situations.

Hello ! Welcome to the HP Community.I hope you have a pleasant experience here! I'd like to help you with the slow printing that you are experiencing when printing images to your HP LaserJet P1102w wirelessly from your Apple devices. Thank you so much for the detailed description. Since the printer is able to print fine wirelessly from the windows machine, we know that the issue is not with the printer or the communication. The fact that none of the Apple devices are able to print images wirelessly without it being really slow, leads me to beleive it may be an Issue with the AirPrint driver or Bonjour protocol that your Apple devices use to communicate the information. Picture files are much larger, and a lot more data needs to be transmitted, so it is normal for them to take longer to print than a regular text document. However, if there is a marked difference in speed between the Windows computer and the Apple devices, then the issue is likely not just that the files are larger. I'd like to get you to make sure the printer is installed with the correct driver on your Mac. (Because there is no full feature HP software available for Mac 10.10 the operating system will often default to the AirPrint driver) Click the Apple icon on your Menu Bar.Select System Preferences.Select Printers and Scanners.Select your printer and then press the (-) button at the bottom of the list to remove it.Select the (+) and click Add Printers and Scanners. (NOTE: Do not select the printer from the list of Nearby printers as this will often automatically use the AirPrint driver)Select your printer (the one that shows Bonjour Multifunction under "Kind").At the bottom of the window under Use: does it say AirPrint? If so, click the drop down and you should see a specific driver for the printer. Click Add.Try printing an image again, and let me know the result.If this works to resolve the issue, then I would suggest downloading the HP ePrint app on your iPhone and iPad to print. It may be an incompatibilty issue between the AirPrint on your Apple devices and your router. I look forward to hearing back from you, and working towards a resolution for this issue.

HP color laserjet 2600n - printing problem.

When the my HP color laser jet 2600n print a page, it is no question if this is blank or colored, the paper show 2 vertical strips constiued for more parallel very thin lines.
One strip is large about 1.2 cm at 3,5 cm from the edge; the other is large about 0.5 cm at 4 cm from the opposit edges.
The color of the bands is primarily cyan - green.
The intensity of the strips is different from any print.
The problem is increased quickly.
The levels of any toners are about 45%.
The HP page print test for the toner cartige do not show any problem (however there are even the 2 verical strips).
The tranfer roller, after the printig proces, is no clean and present the sames strips above described.
I cleaned by a liquid soft cleaner the transfer roller and other part easily detachable and finding in this the presence of dirty then removed: any improvement.
I observe that the photosensitive drums of the cartrige toners (cyan e magenta) are not perfectly clean: it present traces of toner in corrispondence of the bands.
I think about a phenomenon of fat dirty that has propagated from the rollerr to the drums.
Some other user has already found my problem?
Could I look for to resolve without resort to the after-sales service?
How to can eventually clean the drums?
Sorry for my bad English.
Thank you.

1. take out all of the ink cartriges and look at the big black roller on the door for streaking, if streaking, clean with a lint free cloth dampened with windex (window cleaner) then close the door.
2. let it run to initializing.
3. open the door and look and the black roller on the door to see if you have streaking. If no streaking put one cartridge in and close the door and repeat the steps until you find what cartridge is causing the problem.
I did this and found that my cyan was creating the lines on my paper. I cleaned the cyan roller with a Qtip and some rubbing alcohol and it works fine now, no more lines on the paper.
Cheers

Networking a HP color laserjet 2600n printer on windows 7 (64-bit)?

Hello,
Have an HP Color Laserjet 2600n printer and are running Microsoft Windows 7 (64-bit). I installed >> HP Color LaserJet 2600n Plug and Play Package off of HP website [ http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=446154&p... ]. The drivers work fine if you connect via USB port but unfortunately there's no way to connect via network. Can anyone give me guidance on how to connect the 2006n via a network on windows 7 (64-bit)?
Thanks
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Have you plugged the printer into your router and does it have a proper IP address? If so:
1. Make sure the printer is turned on and connected to your network. Verify that you can access the printer's internal web page by browsing to its IP address before continuing.
2. Click >> Start >> Control panel >> Printers.
3. Click the Add a printer
4. Select Local printer
5. Select Create a new port and select Standard TCP/IP Port and click Next button.
6. Under Device type, select TCP/IP Device. Under Hostname or IP address, enter the printer's IP address. Click Next.
7. Select Hewlett-Packard from the list of manufacturers and select and select your printer model. Click Next.
If your printer model was not listed, then select Have Disk, browse the HP CD that came with your printer and select the first file that starts with hp and ends with inf. Click Open then OK. Select your printer model. Click Next.
8. If you are asked, use the currently installed driver.
9. It will ask for the Printer name -- enter a new name or use the existing one. This will be the name of the printer that you select from other applications.
10. You may be asked to share the printer. Choose NO.
11. The Print Test Page box appears. Go ahead and print it.
12. Click Finish.
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

Windows 7 does not detect & install HP Colorlaser 2600n printer connected to wireless network

I have an HP Colorlaser 2600n printer connected to a router set up for my wireless network. I have tried to installed the printer through the wireless network, as I have done with other computers, but my new HP dv7 laptop does not find the printer in the network. Just to check, I installed the printer directly to the laptop through an usb connection and it work, but nothing I have tried has work to access the printer through the wireless network. If I use HP installation CD and check network installation, the setup program does find the printer, but once I finished, the printer does not appear in "printer and devices". Any suggestion on how to solve this situation? Thank you in advance for your help!!

Download and run this: http://h20180.www2.hp.com/apps/Nav?h_pagetype=s-926&h_lang=en&h_client=s-h-e17-1&h_keyword=dg-NDU&ju...
Your security system's firewall is likely in the way.
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

HP 2600n printing dark shade over graphics

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