Hp 500-319NA I5 600w power supply suggestions

I am looking for a power supply that will fin into my case because I have just ordered a new graphics card(nvidia gtx 750 ti windforce) which need an extra 400 watts of power. I would love it if anyone could recommend any power supply's for my issue

Hi, If your PC is not using an external power cube (brick) then you have many choices. The Corsair CX600 would be an excellent choice for a power supply. Another good choice would be the Corsair CS650m.

Similar Messages

  • Power supply suggestions for K7N2G-ILSR

    Can anyone offer suggestions for a good solid pwr supply for this board? I recently bought a low-end one and believe it may be my problem. What I have and will be returning is a Raidmax 400w. The specs are:
    Model PM-S400W ATX12V
    Input: 115VAC/230VAC 12A/7A 60Hz/50Hz
    +3.3V, +5V, +12V, -5V, -12V, +5Vsb
    28.0A, 30.0A, 15.0A, 0.5A, 0.8A, 2.0A
    Suspend mode: Under 27W
    Sleeping mod: Under 30W
    That's about all the info I have on this PSU.
    K7N2G-ILSR NForce2
    AMD 2400+
    Seagate Barracuda V Serial ATA (80gig)
    2 X 256 Mushkin Enhanced PC-3200 DDR
    LightOn 52X CD-RW
    Radeon 7000 Pro 128 mg DDR

    After many attempts to get games to run, upgrading bios, drivers ete.... I was able to get MSI Tech Support on the phone.  We tried changing bus speeds, swapping memory, with AGP card w/o etc....
    Nothing seemed to work.  The tech guy basically told me to RMA the board back with the reseller.
    After doing that, I looked more into what else could cause the problem.  I had already purchased new memory because I was using Kingston 512 2700 DDR, and purchased the Mushkin 2 X 256 PC 3200.  More and more research pointed to the power supply.  So I may have jumped the gun by sending the board back without researching fully what could cause the problem.  I guess you live and learn.   ?(

  • Elite e9150t - upgrading coolingfan/heatsink and power supply (suggestions for upgrade?)

    Hey guys, 
    I don't know why I didn't come here first, but here I am.
    Basically, I have the HP elite e9150t model. Great computer... I've already upgraded a few things, but I am looking to do another little upgrade and would love to get some input. It's also Windows 8.1 Pro.
    Alright, I've upgraded the ram to two 8gb kingston chips. I've also upgraded the video card to a GeForce 660 GTX. Now I am looking to upgrade my power supply and cooling unit. I've been running into problems where my computer will start to overheat when playing games. I can render out things easily enough with 3D software like Maya, but games make the system chug. That's why I've decided to upgrade the cooling unit and figured I should do the same for my power supply as well since it still has the 460w unit. I'd love to get this ugpraded to the point that I can play games with high settings and not worry about my computer dying on me from heat related injuries. I'm not looking to play games like Watch Dogs at the highest setting. I'd LOVE to have that, but I doubt I could squeeze that out right now. I would, however, love to play a game like Wildstar on their ultra setting (which I feel should be doable with my system).
    Also, I am pretty much ignorant when it comes to computer hardware. When I say this, I am not exaggerating. I really have no idea what I am doing when it comes to this part of computers. Here are the two items that were suggested to me. Keep in mind, that I am on a budget right now (starting a new job next week after graduating this past week), so this is about what I can afford (this ~price range). I've also added a fan to the side panel of the computer (well I didn't, but the guy I bought it from did).
    First is the power supply:
    XFX TS Series P1550SXXB9 550W ATX12V 2.2 & ESP12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Active PFC Power Supply
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013
    550 Watt for ~$25 after rebate. Can't beat that and the people that recommended it were saying that it's made by a great company (SeaSonic?)
    And the cooling unit:
    Cooler Master Hyper T4 - CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103182&cm_re=Cooler_Master_Hyper_T4-_-35-10...
    It was actually suggested I get the TX3, but I saw that the TX3 does not support LGA 1336 that the HP has.
    1) Case size: I've tried googling what type of case I have because it seems like that is the jelly to any peanut butter question on power supplies and/or cooling units. Will my suggested items fit in the case I have? It looks like a tight fit in there, so I don't know how well they'll fit.
    2) Are the recommended items good: Again, I don't know anything about this stuff and am going purely off recommendations. Are these the items that I do need? 
    3) Another thing bugging me about the video card: Not exactly on topic, but I have the GeForce card in there right now and it's huge. I also have a sound card, but the way the PCI slots are setup, I have to put the sound card directly over the GeForce card (and the Geforce card has a fan on top of it blowing up). This has the heat blowing directly to the sound card. I don't know if this is what I want to do? I read somewhere that I want the video card closest to the heatsink? Could I reverse the order and have the sound card below the video card and still get away with it? It's a nice sound card and it's being wasted right now (not even in the computer).
    Alright, thanks guys. I know I wrote a **bleep** essay here, but I wanted to be detailed as possible. Thanks again for those that stuck through the whole thing lol...

    Hi,
    I suggest that you do some measuring from the top of the processor to bottom of the removable side panel. You need this measurement to determine if your chosen heat sink cooling  will fit.
    When you install the new power supply then install it fan up pointing to top so that is draws cool air into the power supply from the top side air intake vents.  Measure your existing power supply and look for a high efficiency model with a large fan that will fit in your PC.  If you can find a PSU with a 140 mm fan that will fit then go for it.
    Additional cooling ideas: PCI slot cooling fan and vented PCI slot covers.
    Your particular PC probably has a single width graphics just link my e9280t (same cabinet and mobo).
    BTW--the truckee mobo is not spec'd for 8 GB dimms.
    You have made lots of changes already to your PC so  saying that you know very little appears to be underestimating your own ablities.
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  • Thinkpad power supply suggestion

    I didn't see anyplace else to submit a suggestion to your product engineers, so I thought someone would eventually see it here
    I have several Thinkpads at home, one at work (that lives mostly in a docking station), and an assortment of non-Lenovo laptops and netbooks.  Yes, I know I have too many computers.
    I keep having to replace the Thinkpad power supplies at home because the cable breaks internally right at the big yellow-tipped plug where it flexes.  I just ordered a new on off eBay this morning because my old one died suddenly -- it's not ever intermittent this time like usual.  Older Thinkpads with the small diameter power plug had the same problem, but failed less often.  If you would use a right-angle plug instead of a straight plug (a lot of the netbooks do this) there would be less strain on the wire because it's not sticking out the back of the PC so far and the molded 90° plug would help provide support.  The netbook power cords never fail even tho' they are subjected to harder use.  The cost of the part should be about the same.
    Thanks for listening,
    Bob

    Nobody from Lenovo actually reads these, do they?

  • I have a HP Pavilion a6603w. I want to upgrade power supply to run powerful graphic card. Suggest

    I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w.  I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle. 
    I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan.  Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss?  I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem. 
    Thanks,
    Lugnut 

    lugnut1204 wrote: I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w.  I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle. I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan.  Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss?  I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem.  Thanks, Lugnut 
    Hello lugnut1204, I checked the specifications for your system and is appears the system shipped with a 250 power supply. The dimensions for this power supply are 5 15/16 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3 3/8 inches tall. Since your system is a MicroATX version, you would be slightly limited to a power supply of the same size as the original power supply.
    Here  is a link to Newegg where a Corsair 600 watt power supply can be found with almost the exact same physical size as you original 250 watt version. The Corsair power supply dimensions are 5.9 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3.4 inches tall.
    If you get a power supply too long, it may interfer with the back of the CD\DVD drives.
    You would need to locate a video card that you wanted and make sure the power supply requirements were less than the 600 watt Corsair model. Most of the mid to higher end cards require at leaset a 400 to 500 watt or greater power supply.
    Please click the White Kudos star on the left, to say thanks.
    Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem.

  • Power Supply Mislead

    I have the top of the line PowerMac G5  from 2005.  I had recently been having shutdowns for no reason. Not knowing these systems I called Apple that led me to going to  being sent to the Apple store. I undid all the connections to my mac, took out my main hard drive , put this 50 pd giant on a dolly and wheeled it through a mall to the Apple store. After waiting a long time the AG put it up on the desk and said it was either the power supply  or the logic board and that they dont fix them . He handed me a list of "Apple Approved Repair Servicers"  and said goodbye.
    I went home and watched lots of video's on how to change your own 600w power supply. How to remove the processors to get to the supply. At 200 dollars I was going to do it myself, I'm that way. I stripped the machine down to the watercololed processor that was totally pristine. Not a singlle leak anywhere. Everything was immaculate. Then I came across and article on the PMU. Power Management Utility and how it can become corrupt. How it causes havoc coupled with the Energy Saver Utility that allows the power button to put the computer to sleep. Then it dawned on me, I  had noticed that pressing the power button resulted in an instant shut down. There was no 5 second wait. That was what had happened, it must be.
    Long story short I reset the PMU. Power Management Utility. It no longer did a instant shut off and I disabled the "allow power button to put the computer to sleep". No moore shut downs, this runs perfectly. You would think that would be the first thing a AG would do but apparently not. I think I will go back there and  mention it. Would be good to try first before suggesting the rest.

    Great work on your part, & thanks for the post/tip!

  • I have HPE h8-1360t .. will a EVGA SuperNova 1000 P2 Power Supply fit?

    Hello all
    I have a  HPE h8-1360t desktop computer.
    Recently i purchased a video card that needs at least a 600W power supply (which my PC has) However, this Video Card requires TWO Extra external power connectors:
    1 six pin connector
    1 eight pin connector
    I have looked for a replacement power supply.
    I am currently taking a look at this one:
    http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1000-XR
    this is a 1000W modular power supply.
    Has anyone updated their HP desktop to one like this?
    Did it fit/work?
    thank you for your time
    Carlos

    650W is the most anyone usually would suggest.  Likely it's 7.87" (200mm) length, and that's without cables, will not fit into your case.  What graphic card were you considering?
    I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
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    Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Plus

  • Post Power Supply replacement problems

    Hello,
    I'm trying to resuscitate my PowerMac G5 after a power supply failure and I'm having some issues. I've reached the end of my expertise and so I need to reach out to the community in hopes of being pointed in the right direction.
    So here's the series of event that led me to where I'm at right now along with some symptoms:
    - My PowerMac G5 Dual 2.0 (june 2004) died in a puff of smoke one day, smelled like burnt plastic. I was pretty sure it was a power supply issue. My computer does not qualify for the Apple extended PSU replacement program. After the death, the power supply would click whenever it was plugged in but otherwise the computer was unresponsive.
    - I ordered in a new 600W power supply and replaced the toasted one. I took care to place the CPUs back exactly where they were to avoid having to re-calibrate them.
    - I plugged my computer back in with the same configuration minus the second hard drive. The primary hard drive should be bootable.
    - The first time I powered it on it had no monitor or keyboard/mouse connected. The fans went off at normal speed, the chime chimed and then the fans went full speed.
    - I powered it off and plugged in a keyboard/mouse and monitor and now when I power it on I can hear the fans, then the chime then the CD drive reads a bit of the CD and then that's it. No video.
    - It somehow seems to ignore the keyboard and mouse: I can't use the keyboard to reset the PRAM. I can't use the mouse to open the CD tray.
    - Powering the computer down requires the "press and hold for 2 sec" versus the immediate power down like when the computer is in Target Disk mode.
    - The power status led doesn't flash in anyway at boot, indicating no problem with the RAM, ROM or processors.
    - The diagnosis lights inside the mac are not lit until I remove the plastic cover which triggers the default behavior of running the fans at full speed. Then the led lights up.
    - I reset the PMU but it didn't seem to make a difference.
    - I tried accessing the disk in Target Disk mode but since the keyboard appears to be ignored I don't think the G5 even gets in Target Disk mode. In any case it doesn't mount on the remote computer.
    - I notice that the fan on the video card doesn't spin. The video card is an ATI 800XT with a Zallman fan and heatsync installed.
    I'd be tempted to say that the video card got fried with the PSU failure but then shouldn't I be able to use the keyboard to reset the PRAM and such ? The fact that I'm unable to do that leads me to believe that perhaps a part of the logic board or the front panel got fried...
    How would I go about troubleshooting this without buying a new logic board and front panel ?
    Any ideas ?

    Going through the exact same issue started about 1.5 weeks ago thinking about giving up and buying a Mac mini for access and snow leopard.

  • Video card and power supply upgrade

    Hi, can i put in my hp pavilion p6-2315el an asus gtx 760 and a 600w power supply?

    The card should should work provided there is enough space for it. I would recommend the Corsair CX500M and CX600M power supplies. These are modular version of Corsair power supplies known to fit in many HP desktop cases. The modular PSUs require less cabling and thefefore will provide for better air flow.
    If the ASUS GTX 760 doesn't work, please see old_geekster's reply in GTX 750 Ti and HP Pavilion p6-2108p? Are they compatible for a possible solution.
    If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
    Please click the White KUDOS "Thumbs Up" to show your appreciation
    Frank
    {------------ Please click the "White Kudos" Thumbs Up to say THANKS for helping.
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    This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
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  • PowerMac G5 Power Supply Replacement _ Sharing some information

    I thought I might share my experience here with the recent replacement of the 600w power supply on my DP 1.8 G5.
    Like many who have experienced the failure, the loud cap gun like sound when the PS failed was a sound I didn't want to hear.
    Because this system is the workhorse of my business it was imperitve that we ether got it back up and running or replace it. After a quick call to Apple, even though the system is out of warrenty, I realized this was going to be an in house repair, one because of the cost invloved, and two because of our time frame.
    My thought was how bad can a power supply replacement be? We replace them all the time on our Web Servers and other Linux based systems.
    To those of you that have done this G5 repair I'm sure you are snickering about this time.
    We were able to locate a new power supply and had it over nighted. To those of you ready to tackle the job here is our experience:
    1. Remove the fans, both the front and rear.
    2. Pop off the covers on the processor heat sinks so you can get to the allen head screws that hold the processors in place. ( Yes you have to pull the processors to remove the power supply) Make sure you have a 2.5mm allen head driver with at least a 5.5" shank so you reach the screws that hold the processor in place.
    3. Mark the processors, A or B, top or bottom, you want them going back in the same slots.
    4. Once you have loosened the screws (leave them in the posts, no need to pull them out) pull each processor straight up. Don't wiggle them or rock them, you don't want to bend any pins.
    5. If you have the lower RAM slots filled I would pull the RAM, you'll need the room to get the Power Supply cover out of the way. Again be sure to mark the modules so there is no mismatch.
    6. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the PS cover in place. I found that if you lift the front of the plate up and then slide it to the front, it clears the case. It IS tight to remove this cover, be careful not to jam it against the logic board. I also found its flexable so I could torque it a little from the middle to pull it out.
    7. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the case, they hold the PS in place.
    8. Remove the 3 connections from the logic board.
    9. I found that with the case laying on its side, I tipped the power supply up horzontialy towards the top on the case, and then it lifted stratgit out.
    10. Pop the new in the samew way the old one came out, and make the connections to the logic board. The front connection is a pain because the pig tail isn't all that long, so you end up doint it with one hand.
    11. Reinstall the 4 screws on the bottom of the case, and reinstalled the PS cover using 2 screws.
    12. Put you processors back in place, first the top and then the bottom, be careful here, you don't want to bend any pins, line up the posts and push straight in, you'll feel it seat itself. Tighten up the screws. Don't overtighten these they need to be snug.
    13. Replace the ram, and the top covers for the heat sink and your fans.
    At this point you should be all set, replace the dust covers close up the case and fire it up and all should be well.
    We of course cleaned up the case before replacing the PS and we DID run into a problem with the top processor not seating properly. When the machine booted we got to a gray screen and that was it. I suspected a processor wasn't seating properly and when I pulled the top processor I found a piece of dust between the pins. Of course when I removed the dust I bent a pin, and spent the next 20 minutes realigning it it with a safety pin. I know bad idea but I was desparate. We got incredibly lucky with the alignmnet and the machine booted and has been running like the bear it is.
    We have built and service a lot of machines over the years, and I have to tell you pulling processors to change a PS just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I also have to take issue with the unavailability of information from Apple. I KNOW they want you to use their services but not all of us are in the position to lay out 250 for a PS and another 300 for labor and wait 10 days:)
    I was in touch with a couple of people I know that stated when they pull the PS they also pull the logic board. I didn't find that to be necessary in our situation.
    Like always when you open the case take the necessary precautions with static discharge and electrical hazards.
    Hope this helps somebody out there, I know there wasn't a whole lot of info I found for the task in detail.
    G5   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

    You really need to call Apple and ask about your particular machine. Sometimes Apple will still honor the extended warranty if it applies, even if you're beyond the expiration, and your machine might fit a narrow set of circumstances that doesn't apply to everybody else.

  • Is this Power Supply and case right for my PC?

    Pals...
        Here I go again with a brand new question.
    I want to buy a new case with the Power supply Unit in it and I have come to the decision of buying them separately.
    My machine at the moment is made up of...
    AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Processor Socket 939
    MSI K8N Neo-4 Platinum Socket 939 motherboard
    MSI NX GeForce 6600GT 128 Mb PCI-E VGA card (connected thru the PCI-E, actually)
    2 521 Mb Kingston DDR Memory 400 - 3200
    1 120 GB Western Digital HD PATA (with OS: Windows XP Professional SP2)
    1 120 GB Seagate HD PATA (with files only)
    1 Pioneer 109 DVD-RW
    1 Pioneer 111D DVD-RW
    1 generic Floppy
    Anyway, this is the Case I want to buy
    More information here...
    http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-22331044-gabinete-vitsuba-master-550w-fan-120mm-lcd-frontal-vtb-_JM
    and this is the Power Supply
    More information here
    http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-22621114-fuente-vitsuba-san-55-s-fuente-vtb-colosa-550w-20-24-pines-_JM
    Now, In the PSU, there is a comment that it has 20-24 pins. What the hell are they? Are the Case and PSU fine for the computer I have?

    vandienk,
    If you know anyone coming to the U.S. I have some much cheaper options for you:
    Rosewill RD600-2DC-SL 600W Active PFC Power Supply SLI Ready ATX Form Factor 12V V2.2 / SSI standard EPS 12V, 90-264V CSA,UL,TUV $68.99
    MSI TurboStream 600W ATX 12V V2.2 EPS12V 600Watts Power Supply 115/230 V Safety / EMI Approvals: FCC certification $69.99
    Mushkin 550200 ATX12V 550W Power Supply 115/230 V cUL,CE,CB,FCC $89.99
    ePOWER ZU-600W ATX 12V v2.01 600W Power Supply 115/230 V CSA, TUV, FCC, UL $89.99
    Take Care,
    Richard

  • Can i change my power supply?

    My pc atm is the ThinkCenter M93p (10A8)
    Current Specs:
    I7 4770 cpu
    16gb ram
    1tb hdd
    Lenovo sharkbay motherboard
    Intel hd 4600 gpu (changing soon)
    240w fsp group thingy power supply (changing soon)
    My current pc is doing pretty good so i want to change the video card to a gtx 970 MINI in order to do that i have to get a power supply
    The powwr supply that am thinking of buying is a 600w power supply (Corsair Builder Series CX 600 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS (CX600))
    I have done some research on it and its the exact same size as the current one that i have but it got more wattage now all i need to know is if the power supply compatible with my computer or not (PSU LINK: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092ML0OC#Ask)
    Please help and thank you for your time

    MrAbo0oD wrote:
    befor i went to choose a PSU i went to my own psu and i went and saw the size and everything it had and the psu that am gonna get matches the size of my current psu and i decided to change my whole case because the current one is too small for a gtx 970 minito even fit in because it has too many ports from behind wich wont my case am just getting a new case and a normal gtx 970 so i dont need to spend more money so yeah. . .
    Wondering why you bought an SFF in the first place?  Why not simply go with the tower M93p to begin with, as it certainly solves all of your structural issues if you know in advance you're going to want to make hardware upgrades from the factory M93p.
    Seems like what you've now said you're going to do (case-wise including the expense, to make room for a larger full-size graphics card along with a more powerful PSU to support it) owould have been completely avoided, if only you'd gone with the Lenovo tower case in the first place.
     

  • Power supply clicks twice when plugged in.

    I'm new to Mac however I've been a certified PC tech for many years. I recently purchased my first Mac. It worked fine but needed to have the fans cleaned out. I removed the components and power supply just as I would have done for any PC (I was using heel straps and working on an ESD safe workbench). Upon cleaning the components I reassembled the tower (no left over pieces) and heard two clicks coming from the power supply when I plugged it in and when I unplugged it. After troubleshooting the components individually, and still hearing the two clicks I decided to remove the power supply and test it independently. When I plug in the power supply w/o being attached to the tower I still get the same two clicks (making a relay opening and closing sound) no fans or LEDs come on. Falling back on my years in the industry and common since I decided that the power supply needed to be replaced. After receiving the new (not refurbished) power supply and installing it I'm still getting the same two clicks. At this point due to frustration I break down and call the pros. I called four Mac repair facilities (three third parties and The Mac Store) with a question "is it normal for a G5 power supply that is not connected to the logic board to make a relay open and closing clicking sound" and didn't get much help. Since I'm new to Mac I'm unfamiliar with the characteristics of the hardware. I know that if I were to plug in a normal PC power supply w/o the logic board nothing would happen, but I was told by two of the Mac techs that a Mac power supply would still make the same relay noise w/o being attached to the logic board. The problem is that I have now dropped a fair amount of money in this G5 and I have nothing to show for my investment and I don't know where to go from here. If two of the Mac techs were right then I need to send the new power supply back for an exchange, or if the other two Mac techs were right I need to replace the logic board.
    The specs are:
    1.8GHz Duel Processors
    160G Hard Drive
    600W Power Supply
    2G RAM
    512 Video Card
    Any help would greatly be appreciated.
    Thank you,
    Brian M

    Dear Brian,
    I'm sure that clicking relais sound is the normal behaviour of every G5 power supply.
    Did you use the official service manual for the specified computer? If not, you can download it here (I don't know which of the two files is appropriate for your computer, but one of those certainly is).
    The 512 MB video card is not the standard configuration: the maximum amount of VRAM for an Apple supplied ATI or NVidia was up to 256 MB.
    Lots of success resolving the problem and regards,
    Robbert

  • 600 watt power supply questions and video card upgrade questions

    I am looking to upgrade to a Xfx Radeon 7970 Double D graphics card but i was wondering if the HP 600w psu that came with my Hp Envy Phoenix H9-1350 has a 8 pin and 6 pin Pci-e connector because that is what the Radeon 7970 needs. Also I am wondering if it will fit into the Hp Envy Phoenix H9-1350 because the case seems small but the card is only 9.3" long. I currently have an Amd Radeon 7670 but I think it is time for an upgrade but I am just not sure if the power supply has the correct power connections needed for the Radeon 7970.
    This is the card I am looking to get:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8​2E16814150665
    This is the computer I have:
    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+ENVY+Phoenix+Desk​top+-+12GB+Memory+-+2TB+Hard+Drive/6890832.p?id=12​...

    I understand you want to know if the power supply will have the necessary connectors for the desired video card.
    According to the specifications, it lists the case as a mini-tower which is on the small side.  You may need to use a tape measure to find out exactly how much room the system has in regards to length.  It has become much better, but other components (such as the HDD) were at the end of the PCIe slot limiting the length of a video card.  Sorry I couldn't provide anything more specific.  The manuals are somewhat vague as far as the internal dimensions and I don't have access to one to verify the dimensions.  
    Ordinarily, I can find more information regarding the power supply not that seems not to be the case here.  According to this thread, the PSU has two 6 pin PCIe connectors.  You would need something like this to convert one of the 6pin connectors to 8pin.  As long as the PSU is capable of pushing enough watts, it shouldn't be an issue.  The card needs up to a 500W power supply, so the 600W power supply should be just enough to cover it.
    ↙-----------How do I give Kudos?| How do I mark a post as Solved? ----------------↓

  • The pavillion 500-319na only has a180 w power supply is this enough

    I am thinking of buying a HP Pavillion 500-319na desktop PC, like the spec but my main worry is that its only has a 180 watt power supply, is this enough.

    Dear wb2001 & banhien and anyone else willing to contribute,
    Please disregard the PSU form factor list at:
    HP 500-319na
    In actual fact, the Psu is an internal unit. It seems there has been an error when listing the specs.
    It is a 180W internal PSU.
    The question remains for anyone willing to help us understand.
    How is it possible to run this system with these components with just a 180w PSU at moderate to full load/system resource capacity.
    Every single Wattage calculator I've used online (mainstream manufacturers and industry accepted benchmarks) show that this setup needs at least a 220w to 300w psu to run at full load. Have there been comprimises made in some shape or form?
    I'd really appreciate any input that the community can provide.
    Please help fill in the gaps!
    i5-4460s
    8GB Pc-1600 DDR3 (2x4GB)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT 705 (~31W)
    Wifi Card - atheros single band 802.11 b/g/n
    2TB 7200 rpm HDD
    Super multi DVD drive
    7in1 multimedia Card reader
    Pendragon Memphis-s Motherboard
    Beats Audio 7.1
    @ Full whack
    on 180w PSU?  - Don't understand how.
    My genuine and sincere thanks,
    Algren

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