HP Photo C4205 colour issues

Can anyone help me, my printer is printing out in faded blue and purple tone colours. It is not printing any black either. It has just been installed and the black or colour ink is not low. Test page is all purple and blue colours also.

For the Photosmart 5510 the troubleshooting steps in the document here may help. Especially make sure the vents are cleared. If that does not resolve the issue then resetting the printer as described in the post here may help. If this does not resolve the issue then read the entire thread here and try requesting reset instructions.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

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IPrint app for iOS fails to print photos in colour

We are running the latest build of the iPrint Appliance (Version: 1.0.1.69 Patch 1) and cannot get the iPrint app for iOS to print photos in colour. I suspect that this is a problem with the internal renderer and JPG files. Printing a PDF, DOC or DOCX file which uses the External windows renderer prints in colour without any issues. Anyone know whether this is a known bug or how I can enable colour printing for a JPG file?
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Bridge/Photoshop Colour Issues

Bridge/ Photoshop Colour Issues:
It appears that there are a few pictures that are noticeably dull, when I load them in Bridge and Photoshop. Those same pictures are very vibrant when I look at them directly from the SD card or load them into Picassa. I tried editing the picture, saving it in Photoshop, then opening it up in Picassa and it has the same dullness. Since having this issue, I have updated the drivers on my Quadro graphics card, but I think it may be something to do with the way that I set up Adobe Bridge, because this is the first time I have imported a large batch of photos from Bridge. However, I pretty much left everything as the standard settings in Bridge. Any suggestions?
FYI - I just started using the Adobe Master Collection, with Win 7 Pro 64 and Huey Pro embedded on my laptop. My colour settings are Huey Pro on my laptop, SRGB in Photoshop and General Purpose for Bridge (I haven’t had this issue before and Huey Pro has been my colour settings on my laptop since I got Adobe).
Derek

Dwhug wrote:
However, when I switch the Colour Settings>Working Spaces>RGB to "Monitor RGB - Huey Pro" the problem is fixed.
That turns off color management in Photoshop, so yes, that would match other applications that aren't color managed at all. You're not fixing the problem, you're just hiding the symptom.
If you're certain the Photoshop version is wrong, that means your monitor profile is corrupt. A corrupt monitor profile only affects color managed software like Photoshop. Other applications don't use the monitor profile and never touch it.
If it's merely the fact that Photoshop is different, that's normal and all as it should be. With a valid monitor profile Photoshop is right and the others wrong.

LR4 Colour issues

When I export my images from LR4 to Flickr (or anywhere else on the web) they always appear a bit pinker than in LR. I know LR4 develops in ProPhoto by default and, as is best practice for the web, I always export in sRGB for the web. I don't want to have to 'soft proof' every single photo I take (such a hassle), and I'm guessing this is a discrepency between colour profiles. SO, is there any way I can change LR4 so that I can develop all my images in sRGB instead of proPhoto, as I used to in LR3? There was never a discrepency when I was editing in sRGB in LR3. This has only been an issue since upgrade and it really bugs me!
Also ~ from the help files proPhoto seems to assume an ability to callibrate your monitor, but not everyone has the means to do this ~ l it's a bit unfair. My monitor has an autocalibration tool and it's colours are pretty accurate, but there is no profiling 'file' that I could use for LR to read & allign itself with.

I seem to remember being able to CHANGE the develop module in LR3 so that I was working in sRGB. And when I was working in LR3, on the SAME monitor I never had colour issues between develop and export to Flickr.
If it's not the profiling, what else is it that's changed?
Not everybody has the means to buy calibration equipment. It's #1 on my wish list and I am serious about my photography, but I work on a very low budget and can only spend as I earn! I don't buy lenses. I bought one 35mm and that's me ~ everything else it's out of budget right now. A decent calibrator does not come cheap and I see no point buying a cheap one that probably won't be much better than the auto that's already built into my screen!
I just want to also say ~ when my pictures are professionally printed the colour matching seems fine ~ so I don't actually believe I have a serious monitor calibration issue.

IPhoto frustrating error..The volume for "Df23.JPG" cannot be found. It prompts for all photos with this issue rather than offering an option to ignore. I can find the images in spotlight but not in Find Photo. Does anyone have a solution

iPhoto frustrating error..The volume for "Df23.JPG" cannot be found. It prompts for all photos with this issue rather than offering an option to ignore. I can find the images in spotlight but not in Find Photo. Does anyone have a solution?

Unless you have the source files that were on the TC or Windows machine you will have to start over with a new library as follows:
Start over from scratch with new library
Start over with a new library and import the Originals (iPhoto 09 and earlier) or the Masters (iPhoto 11) folder from your original library as follows:
1. Move the existing library folder to the desktop.
2. Open the library package like this.
Click to view full size
3. Launch iPhoto and, when asked, select the option to create a new library.
4. Drag the Masters (iPhoto 11) folder from the iPhoto Library on the desktop into the open iPhoto window.
Click to view full size
This will create a new library with the same Events as the original library but will not keep the metadata, albums, books slideshows and other projects. Your original library will remain intact for further attempts at fixes is so desired.
OT

Colour issues LR3

I shoot ijn Camera RAW on a Canon 5D2 in LR3 and I'm having colour issues; skin tones are often purple/magenta tinted and very difficult to correct. I usually set the WB to Custom and shoot a grey card and set the picture style on the camera to Neutral (why does the WB affect RAW images anyway, I thought it only operated on the jpgs?)
On import, pics often look ok then resolve into higher contrast, garish colour versions which are less pleasing - have I set a preference incorrectly or am I missing something else?
All help gratefully received
Ian

maninahat wrote:
On import, pics often look ok then resolve into higher contrast, garish colour versions which are less pleasing - have I set a preference incorrectly or am I missing something else?
When you first import, you see the small embedded JPEG the camera generates. This matches what you see on the LCD but is based on having the camera do the conversions which you're not doing. LR therefore has to build it's own high quality previews but more importantly, that is based on it's current default settings using it's own engine. So just forget what you initially see, you'd not get that unless you set the camera for JPEG.
The key is setting up a custom default you prefer. You could pick a general DNG profile, move any of the sliders around etc and the, if you option click in Develop, the Reset button toggles to allow you to create a new default. From there you can of course adjust to taste. You'll still have to white balance and so forth but you should try to get a decent 'starting point' from Import on. For WB, might want to set the camera for Auto WB. Note this setting has no effect on your raw data! It's only a suggestion you can accept or alter. With Auto WB, you'll probably find more images come in looking closer to what you want then say forcing Daylight (which would look butt ugly IF those images were shot under Tungsten). Auto IS NOT PERECT by a long shot but since the setting doesn't affect the data, might as well try for something that gets you in the ball park.
Using any card to WB (and you should use a white, not gray card) again is often just another starting point. You seasson to taste using Tint/Temp. And of course, if you shot a scene at sunset and did this, you'd kill the color expected at that time of day. Bottom line is, when you capture raw, the WB can be anything you wish, anything you think looks good. That would not be the case with a JPEG. If you set it, you're then kind of stuck with that rendering.
Lastly, creating one or two custom DNG camera profiles can work wonders. Check out the X-rite Passport product. You'll end up with a really great target for balancing as well.

Button Colour issues...

Hi people.
I'm having some colour issues with my buttons. Not the regular buttons, but the buttons in the picture windows.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/DanThe440Man/Random%20Stuff/RolloverColou rs.jpg
As you'll see in the 1st picture, 'Back To Index' goes Orange when you hover the mouse over it. When you take the mouse off it, it goes grey. On the 2nd picture, in the bottom right, the 'Next' button behaves exactly the same. This is good, because they fit the colour scheme of the website. However, out of the 9 albums I have on my website, this is the only album that does this. All the other albums buttons are white!
How do I change the colours? I've obviously done it before, but I can't figure out how. Any help appreciated!
Dan

Anybody have any ideas? My sites nearly finished....I'm too fussy to let it go!
Dan

Confusing Colour Issues with 3 camera shoot. Please help

Hey Everybody,
I have had to re-register, so this looks like my first post!
There is a colour issue which is seriously baffling us, we shot a fighting event with a 3 camera shoot. 3 Days, and on all 3 days the cameras seem to have produced different colour outputs dispite being on the same setting. Can anybody shed any light on how to match the colours here. All settings on the cameras were the same, so we are surprised that the footage has come out differently. The following day the footage from all 3 cameras were indentical. However this is the footage produced from the first shoot
We have tried bightness/contrast, levels, fast colour correction, Colour Balance and CB_HLS and still can't get the footage to match.
While it would appear there might be a slight hint of over exposure when we take the brightness right down, there is hardly any highspots.
If there is no solution for us to do, is there anybody who we could send a short clip, have them correct it and we can duplicate to the rest of the shots? If so what kind of expense do you think that would incur?
Thanks in advance

its important to use the same exact cameras on multi camera shoots. also important to take color meter and see what the lights give you. sodium vapor and tungsten and flourescent all need different " color correction" gels to make them equal 32k or 56k .. and its not just orange and blue correction ...its also green and magenta etc...
professionally , you cant do all that at the " lens " with cc filters..you need to actually get to the lights physically ( with scissor lifts or cranes ( manlifts ) and gel the lights too ).
Once you have your lights corrected and ready to shoot...all cameras need to shoot "color swatches - usually Kodak .. with a single light source that equals what your camera is set to ( color temp )...and that is used to get your balance correct in post.
That said it sounds like you are screwed...
To have someone try to correct that professionally would cost more than you can afford, or you would have used that " money " to correct your color etc in the beginning... in other words, if you could afford to send everything to a pro lab and try color correcting all that stuff, you wouldnt have this problem to begin with IMO.
My suggestion:
Since wrestling is a gritty sport and " manly " and full of emotion that is basically " tough " and " hard " ....trash the color altogether and make everything black and white... maybe increase your contrast a tiny bit ...or maybe add a slight " tone " to it....( not sepia which looks just " old " , but maybe slight blue tint ? ) ...something to make it look as gritty and hard as you can...
Then tell client you did it on purpose ! Is part of your concept to begin with... wow them with your creativity !

Colour issue with 'Save for Web' - Photoshop Elements 6 (Mac)

Cross posted here, but no answer so far. Sorry for cross posting. For me, this is urgent, but I know it's not for anyone else, so apologies for putting 'urgent'.
http://www.mac-forums.com/forums/images-graphic-design-digital-photography/150670-colour-i ssue-save-web-photoshop-elements-6-a.html#post840419
This is a similar issue to this:
Save for web color issue
Except the user who posted the above was using photoshop cs3, and I'm using Adobe Photoshop Elements 6.
When I work on a photo, I get it just right, then go to Save for Web, and the original it previews is loads lighter than the orginal I was working on in the first place. See 'Picture 1' attachment.
I have changed the colour settings on the Save for Web options - I've chosen each one in turn, and none fix the problem.
There seems to be no similar option in PSE6 to this that fixed it in CS3:
IN the save for web box there is a small round button with an arrow in it (near the Done button).
In the list when this button is pressed deselect Convert to sRGB
I used to use PSE2 on a PC, and never had this problem. I didn't need to mess about with colour profiles or anything similar on the PC. The original was the original, not a washed out version of the original. Why spend ages getting the file just right, only for Save for Web to screw it up?
Any advice to fix this would be much appreciated.
Thanks

Thanks very much for your reply.
I've uploaded the images here:
http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 1.jpg
http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 2.png
I deleted the prefs. file you suggested, and then opened PSE6.
I then tried the profile setting you suggested - but it's not an option:
http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 3.png
I tried 'remove profile' just in case that worked, but the same effect happens on Save for Web.
Not sure what to try next!
Thanks

HT203040 Iphone 6 photos too colour saturated

photos in the iphone5 appeared very natural with perfect colour balance. My new iPhone 6 however takes photos that are clearly colour satured. They just dont look that great. Its sporting an apple leather case. Could the case have an impact? Anyone else havimg the same issue with iphone 6?

Hey JdeJ,
Thanks for the follow up! I’m glad to hear that your issue is resolved. Sometimes it is the simplest things!:
"Simple can be harder than complex: You have to work hard to get your thinking clean to make it simple. But it’s worth it in the end because once you get there, you can move mountains.”
- Steve Jobs
Have a great day!
- Matt M.

Colour issues when Producing iBA assets from InDesign

Hi there
This is just a heads-up for those that produce any assets for eventual use in iBooks Author in InDesign. Watch out for colour matching issues. The RGB values in inDesign do not often produce the same colours in iBA. Why would someone be using InDesign in the first place? Well you might use InDesign to work out page layouts, or to produce the TOC backgrounds (so that Chapters can feature individual colour ways), or for creating images with text for use in HTML widgets. It's just quicker/easier at handling text and managing styles.
Anyway - here's the issue. Try this: Create an colour with a specific RGB value in InDesign, export it as a jpg, and import it to iBA. Then create a shape within iBA with exactly the same RGB values. The two colours may differ. We have tried selecting different colour management options in InDesign, and even turning it off completely, but the colours still differ.
We created an image in Photoshop with a certain RGB value. That looked fine in iBA, and had kept the correct RGB value (using the colour sample tool to test it). We took a .jpg exported from InDesign (with the same RGB value within InDesign), opened it in Photoshop, and although the two images in Photoshop reported the same RGB value, they were clearly different to look at. When the InDesign image was brought into iBA, it's colour sample tool reported a differing set of RGB values.
So, if you have some assets where you need a reliable colour match you have a few choices:
1) Don't use InDesign - use Illustrator or Photoshop
2) If you must use InDesign - then export the assets as RGB PDFs with no colour management, open in Photoshop and export to jpg from there.
3) If you're using colour ways, create the image from InDesign, but don't use the same RGB values that InDesign has to create elements in iBA. Sample the image using the colour sampler, and use the resulting RGB values to create your items.
Like I say - it's not really an Apple issue, but those who use iBA with InDesign are better off pre warned, so I thought that I would be better off posting it here than in Adobe's forums.

Publisher can create CMYK files, you go save as, then choose PDF, then click on Options or something and change it to Commercial Press. This is Microsoft's version of the Press Quality export setting in Indesign, with it converting all images to CMYK, downsampling to 300dpi etc.
NEVER EVER EVER USE THIS WAY TO CREATE PRINT FILES FROM PUBLISHER!!!!
Have I made myself clear?
The CMYK images created this way have a terrible sort of under colour removal. Think for example of a dark blue garment, where most of the garment is something like 100C 60M 0Y 60K, but in the shadows it goes darker than that, up to 100K. Well in that area of 95 to 100% black in the image Publisher will convert it to only that, with no other colours underneath it. But the areas surrounding it will be rich black. This won't show up on digital proofs, even hi res ripped inkjets, and won't even show up on a press pass unless the machine has drying, because it is not until the ink dries off that you notice these weird photos.... Anyway what I do has already been said above.
1. Refry it first.
2. You should be able to sync your settings.
3. No, it just thinks it can.
In this case I actually had the Publisher files as well, so I printed them to PDF using Acrobat, and the images were fine. Problem is the client had gotten used to text and other elements the way they looked using Publishers crappy CMYK export so I had to combine that with the proper images by cropping in Indesign..
Here's examples of what happens:
CMY channels only, BAD!
CMY channels only, GOOD!

Kodak Photo CD conversion issues

The Kodak Photo CD seems to be obsolete these days, but I have a number of old Photo CDs from years ago, so I have an interest in converting the files to some other format in the best way possible. In trying to do so with Photoshop CS2, I've noticed some issues:
1. Highlights are washed out. This is not so bad when the highlights are in the sky and I just lose some cloud detail, but it's quite unpleasant when the highlights are in people's faces. When I try converting the files with Paint Shop Pro, results look somewhat inferior in other ways, but there's more detail in the highlights, so this seems to be a Photoshop problem.
2. Photoshop provides the option of 16-bit colour when importing from Photo CD, which looked good to me, so I used it. I've only just realized that, as far as I can tell, the Photo CD images contain only 8-bit colour information, so I've just been wasting space by saving large TIFF files with 16-bit colour. I wonder why Photoshop provides this useless option! Or does it have some purpose unknown to me?
Has anyone found a good way of converting Photo CD images that doesn't wash out the highlights?

Hello Gernot, thanks for your reply.
Yes, I've seen the Ted Felix site, downloaded his DLL, and used it with Paint Shop Pro. Unfortunately, although it does preserve more of the highlights, in other respects the Photoshop conversion looks better.
As you say, it seems that it would be possible for an intelligent conversion tool to convert a standard PCD image to a TIFF with genuinely useful 16-bit colour. Unfortunately, no-one seems to have produced such a tool. I tried asking here just in case anyone has found a better solution than the ones I've tried.
I get the impression that Adobe merely bundles the conversion tool provided by Kodak without attempting to correct its defects or even to document it properly (the Photoshop help says very little about it).
Although PCD is more or less a dead format now, there must be lots of old Photo CDs at large in the world, and quite a few people interested in converting those images. I suppose most people innocently convert the images with whatever tool they have, and wrongly blame the PCD format itself for the imperfect results they get.

Photo printing colour matching to older hp printer

I have a D7160 hp printer and have just acquired a C309a printer. The photos printed on the c309a have less vibrancy of colour and when printing mountain scenes have a distinct green cast. Compared to the same image printed on the D7160 the images look under exposed. Most of the photos I take are used as colour references when painting in oils - this is very disappointing as I know the photo in no way represents the image taken. Is there a way to colour correct or do I need a different ? Also, the software with this printer - "simple home print" function in no way compares to the photsmat premium 6.1 that came with the D7160. I am not a professional photographer but I have taken many courses. I need a "truer" colour match than I have been able to achieve. This printer and software don't appear to be sophisticated enough for my needs unless there is a way to correct these problems.

I'm sorry I can't help you, because I have a similar problem printing to an HP AIO 7410 from Corel Paint Shop Pro, or even Roxio Photo Suite. The colors on the screen do not match the colors on the prints. If I spend several hours per print, I'll eventuall get there, at a great cost in paper and ink.
How does one calibrate a monitor? How does an amateur calibrate a 7400 series printer?
Same problem, I think, as yours, but different hardware and software.
Maybe HP will start collecting complaints such as these and issue a simple step-by-step paper to help us out.
Tony

I am unble to send photos on my iPhone 4S with ios7 unless I shut it off an turn it back on. I can receive photos with no issue

Not sure why but unless I turn my phone off then back on a cannot send photos and even when I do that it will only send one. I have no issue recieving photos

Yes, to sync with iCloud on your Mac you will need to upgrade.
You can certainly upgrade to Mountain Lion but OS X Mavericks is due out within the next month so it may be worth it to wait. In the meantime you can access your iCloud contacts, calendars, etc... from iCloud.com. Sign in with your Apple ID.
Here is more info on Mavericks: Apple - OS X Mavericks - Do even more with new apps and features.

Mini DVi to VGA colour issues

Hi,
I recently purchased a projector to connect to my macbook. My intension was to use a mini-dvi to vga cable to do this, however when i connected everything up the projected image had a green tint. I must also state that i have connected a TV to the same port with a mini-dvi to s-video adaptor with no problems with the colour.
My first thought was that the cable was the problem, so i borrowed my friends macbook to see if they had the same problem. There where no issues, so if figured it was either a software or hardware issue.
My next step was to boot off the start up disk and plug the projector in, same issue - green tint.
So i have concluded that it is a hardware issue. I know that the mini-dvi port is connected directly to the logic board, if i want to get this fixed will i have to replace the whole logic board or is there another way.
All your help comes much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Bob

Hi DoDolom,
First, welcome to Macintosh!
Secondly, it sounds to me like what's happened is that OS X has extended your desktop onto a second monitor. Plug in an external mouse and keyboard and then close the MacBook's lid. It will go to sleep. Use the external mouse/keyboard to wake it up and you should be running on just the external display.

HP Photo C4205 colour issues

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