HP TX2000 Pen Calibration Issue(s)

I have an HP tx2000. I reinstalled windows and then I went to calibrate the pen digitizer thing (for portrait) and in the middle of calibration a window poped up. I couldn't close the window with the pen because it wasn't calibrated properly. So, I rotated the screen to the regular landscape view and closed the window. Well, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get back to the calibration. So, I shutdown the computer and tried to calibrate it again, but it wouldn't let me. Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this calibration issue? Thank you very much for your help.

There are more than 1000 entries in google under "hp pavilion tablet driver"each asking for the driver.
More than 300 visitor read your post.
No one answered at all.
Do you think is your fault, or maybe HP and Wacom are too busy to deal with this issue.
Until this issue stays under, lets say, 500 readings, you'll get no answer.
Maybe you thougth they will hurry up for you, and your error buying this equipment for your specific need, and the possibility of sell it out!
It's a shame but, in this business, products go to the market before they get success on real quality tests. We, final customers, are their quality control. And these products are OK unless anyone can speak loud enough to reveal any inconvenience.
Don't wait for any answer until another user, with enough time and knowledge to get it running, falls in the same problem.
Anyway, good luck!!
God, give me patience. But give it to me NOW!!!

Similar Messages

Photoshop Pen Pressure Issues

I'm not actually sure that this is the correct place to post this. I don't have a question per se, as I've fixed the problem, but I would like to address an issue with Photoshop and my pen tablet and hopefully help others who might have the same problems. I recently built a new computer and, upon installing my Wacom Bamboo and Photoshop, found myself unable to use the pen pressure settings in Photoshop, which had previously worked just fine on my old machine. I tried everything I could find on the web to fix the problem: reinstalling the tablet drivers, installing old driver versions, turning on and off various settings, nothing worked, when finally I stumbled across a post by someone who offhandedly mentioned that they started Photoshop with their pen, instead of their mouse, and that their pressure settings worked just fine. I was kinda skeptical that such a trivial-seeming thing could be the fix, but I tried it, and lo and behold, it worked! If anyone here knows why I'd be interested in knowing, just for the sake of curiosity, but I hope this simple fix can save some time and frustration for other users.

Photoshop CC 2014 changes stylus use to use Microsoft system API's, with these API's you need to have Windows Ink enabled. These API's give better stroke results and improve the out of the box experience for users using Windows tablet/convertible devices. If you want to go back to the old WinTab implementation of previous versions do the following:
Create a file that contains instructions to revert to the WinTab functionality.
Create a text file in a text editor such as Notepad.
Type in the following lines:
# Use WinTab
UseSystemStylus 0
Save the file as a plain text file named PSUserConfig.txt, and save the file into the Photoshop settings folder: C:\Users\[User Name]\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC 2014\Adobe Photoshop CC 2014 Settings\.
To turn off the gestalt's functionality, delete the PSUSerConfig.txt file. Or, move it to a different folder if it doesn't contain any other commands, or change the lines so they read:
# Use Win8 native tablet support
UseSystemStylus 1

Contrast/brightness calibration issue

Hello
I have an Apple Studio Display 17-inch CRT with a VGA connection to a recently installed Radeon 9800; and before that an ATI Rage 128. For a long time now I have not been able to calibrate contrast or brightness in Display Calibration Assistant. Basically, the window with the brightness oval in it doesn't respond to increases or decreases in contrast or brightness. Native Gamma, Target Gamma, and Target White Point all respond normally.
I have tried cleaning the AGP Slot on the mother board, and the AGP connectors on the 9800. I've also tried repairing permissions, and profile first aid. So is this a software issue, or hardware issue; and is it repairable?
I do run OS 10.4.11 on a G4 Sawtooth with 2GB Ram, and a 1.8GHz dual CPU.

I'm not an expert on monitors, but I do know tubes and that, from your description, is what you have, a CRT. If the monitor is years old then the cathode may be losing its ability to emit electrons. This will cause problems trying to get the responses you need. It's akin to old people like me just wearing out. You can increase the emissions by raising the filament voltage like they used to in the old days when tv's cost several weeks of gross pay, but that just accelerates the inevitable. Replacing the cathode is technologically possible, but economically the cost would scare you to death.

Calibration Issues

I am setting up the calibration process newly in my system.
I have done the necessary settings.I am facing some issues while executing the calibration process.
1.While I try to create a single cycle plan I am getting the message"Counter couldn't be determined for reference object".Why is it so?
2.While scheduling my maintenance plan I get the warning message as "User status ZPM7 is active".
3.While saving the result recording,the screen for time confirmation does not appear and I get the message record inspection point identifier for the inspection point.I guess I have missed some settings.
I have set the indicator to release immediately for my order type.My order is also not getting tecoed in the background
automatically though the required function module is set in the background.

1) Counters are always used for performance based plan. Check your cycle it should be time based, eg.hrs, days, etc. and not performance based ex, m3/hr. or else assign counter to the equipment.
2) check user status ZPM7 assigned to the equipment , it is restricting the further scheduling.
3) I think on this check the master inspection characteristics for that equipment.
Release immediately doesn't mean that TE CO will be done automatically.It means that orders of this order type are automatically assigned "Released" status when they are created.
Regards,
Asheesh Aswal

CS5 Pen Tool Issues

I use the pen tool more then almost any other tool as all images need to have a clipping path. But sometimes I get the issues where the pen tool gets stuck in "Add to Path Area (+)" instead of the normal "Exclude overlapping path area". It will get stuck randomly and will not let me change it in the tool. If I go to the path selection tool it lets me change it there but the pen tool still remains stuck. It is kind of annoying to have half the path be what I want and the other half be added so when I remove the background all the holes in the center that I have are still filled. If I change to the ellipse tool it will go back to exclude(where it defaults on that tool) and work for a while then go back again on another image. Thing is that it always goes to the "Add to path area(+)" It is really beginning to get to me fast. Anyone else having this issue or know how to fix it? I am using it on Snow Lepoard 10.6.8 with the last version of photoshop(though it has been doing this since I got this mac 2 years ago). Intel Core 2 Duo 3.06ghz, 16gb ram and NVIDIA GeForce 9400 256mb GPU. Nothing too special but it does not happen on my PC, only mac and it is really irritating.
Nick

I tried it in CS4, and it does both of it there too, ugh. Thats weird, I'm surprised. Especially because both tools work properly when sample all layers is on, even with geometric shapes.
Something Adobe overlooked maybe? I dunno, thanks charles.

Monitor Calibration Issue?

When I'm in Develop or Print the brightness and color of a harbor that I photographed look just fine. They also look fine when I call up the printer's print preview window. However, when I print out the photo, the blue water in the shadows takes on a greenish tint and other areas of shadow come out darker than what is shown on the screen. Could this be a monitor calibration problem?

No that is the correct profile. the SP indicates glossy photo paper. The MP
is because this is a multifunction printer. Alas this also indicates the
likely issue. The drivers for many of these cheapo printers simply do not
turn off their color management even if you tell it to do that. My guess is
that what is happening is double color management. The driver is expecting
data in sRGB and coverts that to a printer profile. However, it got data in
the profile already so it gets applied twice. This bug in the drivers only
shows up in more modern apps such as Lightroom and Photoshop CS5 as they
only use the most recent method to send data to the driver and the drivers
haven't been updated to allow the more modern method (and likely never
will). You can sometimes get these printers to print correctly by setting
the driver to expect adobeRGB or sRGB and telling Lightroom to send data in
that colorspace (select show display profiles in the other dialog and enable
those). Sometimes the sequence of when you go into the print settings dialog
matters and the driver will suddenly decide to cooperate as long as you go
by business in the exact same way every time.

W530 Color Calibration Issue

Every month I re-calibrate my display using the COLOR by PANTONE Color Calibrator (v1.1.0).
I tried doing it today and kept getting this error, even though the tone for successful calibration always goes off:
Link to picture
I'll try to calibrate the screen once, but it will fail. When I try a second time, it will also fail, and give me the error seen above. If I try a third time, I finally get the three failure tones and the software simply closes itself.
Is this a hardware issue? A driver issue? Are there any solutions for this?
Recently updated my computer. Windows 7 64-bit.
Moderator note; picture(s) totalling >50K converted to link(s) Forum Rules
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi again, crmichae
What updates have you recently done to your machine? I did some research and found two highly relevant updates for your machine in general, and this issue more specifically. If you haven't already updated them, I found drivers for both your BIOS and the your graphics card that have been released recently and are a good place to start with helping this issue. The graphics driver can be found here and the BIOS can be found here.
Hope it helps. Let me know how it goes,
Adam
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Pen pressure issues with CS6

So, I'm having an odd issue with my tablet and its pressure sensitivity with CS6. I've got a Genius MousePen tablet; M508W model. I can use it on my mac computer with photoshop elements; pen pressure works just fine with it. In CS6, when I do the stroke preview for all of my burshes, it shows the tapering-- as well as in the brush settings. When I go to make an actual rush stroke though, it doesn't apply the pressure settings. I've got the most recent drivers for the tablet downloaded, All of the old driver software was uninstalled, I've made sure that the drivers are for my version of windows, I've tried setting the compatability back to windows 7 and using the windows 7 drivers, but STILL nothing. The only reason I'm lead to believe that this is an issue with CS6 is that the tablet works with PS Elements just fine. If anyone could help shed some light on the situation, I'd greatly appreciate it.

I am having a similar issue.
Working in CS6 on a Cintiq Companion.
Pressure sensitivity disappears while I'm working.
The only way to get it back is to quit out of Photoshop and relaunch.
The pressure sensitivity works fine in Autodesk Sketchbook.

Sony Vaio Tap 11 Pen Pressure issues?

Hey everyone, I have a Sony Vaio Tap 11 and for some reasno the Pen Pressure feature isnt functioning within Adobe Products, I have tested it in another program and it worked fine, just not in Adobe products. Any suggestions?

I remembered coming across threads on issues with Sony Vaio, that they were about other models had been unclear to me.
But does Mr.Cox assessment
If the driver isnt' reporting pressure correctly, then it won't work in Photoshop.
The other 2 apps you mention use a different API for pen pressure -- so probably the older API is broken in your driver.
You'll probably have to go through Sony for driver updates.
from this thread
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4856888#4856888
not probably also apply in your case?

Color calibration issues with Mavericks

Hello All,
I found my MBA's color calibration has changed dramatically after installing OS X Mavericks. The shared links, icons at doc etc. are highly saturated. Are you experiencing the same problem? How to solve this?

Did anyone find a fix yet? I'm experiencing the same issues... In my case it possibly affects icons but also photos, and more remarkably so: colors appear too contrasted and saturated, especially reds. Crushed blacks, loss of detail in dark areas, and overall darker images. Both in Safari and when I browse and preview pics in Finder. For whatever reason, the color change is especially noticeable in thumbnails... This is unacceptable for me. I don't want any filters whatsoever. Anyone got a clue on how to reverse this behavior? Please Apple, fix this.

Color calibration issues - blue tint w/ sRGB

Need some help getting this issue resolved & wondering if there is a problem with my LCD.
I do a lot of web and video work and recently moved from a 17" Powerbook G4 to a 17" MacBook Pro. Both used with a 20" Apple Cinema display. The color temperature (tint) between the Powerbook and the new MacBook Pro are drastically different - especially when using sRGB calibration which is recommended by Adobe for this type of work. The cinema display seems correct and closely matches my Powerbook when using sRGB, but the Macbook Pro is very blue. The Macbook Pro displays more warm grays vs. the cinema display when using the default calibration settings.
Using sRGB for both displays:
http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_sRBG.jpg
Using default calibration for both displays:
http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_default.jpg
*Notice the 20" cinema hardly changes in either of these shots which make me think there's a problem with the MacBook Pro display.
- Are all the new MacBook Pros like this?
- Why so different than the Powerbook display and Cinema displays?
- Any calibration suggestions for Adobe CS3 and screen work?

Brief intro before I pontificate: I have a degree in imaging and used to be one of the guys you talked to at Eastman Kodak about monitor color calibration (before Kodak drove me crazy).
A few points:
First, sRGB is a needlessly small gamut color space invented by Microsoft. In the professional imaging field it is looked at with great disdain because it is imposing a needless crushing of your monitor's color profile. I've talked to one of the color experts at Adobe and he completely agrees. I don't know who at Adobe is recommending sRGB, but they are W R O N G. I personally call sRGB 'StupidRGB' in order to remind myself exactly what it is worth.
Second, the field of color calibration, color matching and color correction is complicated and requires considerable understanding to perform correctly. There are entire books on the subject, well worth reading. You can even take classes on the subject, such as at Rochester Institute of Technology (plugging my Alma matter). If you have shopped around for color calibration devices you will find they are incredibly expensive, and there is a reason for that.
Third, LCD screens generally SUCK for color matching. Here are a few reasons why:
(A) The viewing angle of most LCD screens is so small that if you tilt your head up, down, right or left you end up with a shift in color balance and contrast. Result: no way can you accurately color match. This is most certainly the case with ALL MacBooks, MacBook Pros and iMacs. The Cinema displays are vastly better. You can check this out yourself at your local Apple Store.
(B) In case you had not heard, none of the MacBook or MacBook Pro laptops are capable of showing all colors to which the human eye is sensitive. They don't do 'millions of colors' despite advertising you have read. They do about 260,000 colors and dither the rest. Dithering does NOT create colors that are not there. It just fakes them. The result again is that it is impossible to use these LCDs for accurate color matching. I have no knowledge about whether this color problem is the case with iMacs, but refer to the paragraph above regarding their viewing angle problem.
(C) The color gamut on even the very best LCD display is at the mercy of the fluorescent light bulbs inside the displays. The massive problem with fluorescent lights is that they do not have a continuous color spectrum. What you get are specific wavelength peaks with complete dropouts of other colors. Ye old CRTs with electron guns and glowing phosphors were/are not perfect either, but they were/are MUCH better at representing the full spectrum of light. Their gamut is much larger and more accurate than any LCD display. CRTs remain THE professional display for color calibration and color matching, even today.
I could rant on, but I think you get the message: Color matching on LCDs is a lousy idea, and on MacBooks and MacBook Pros it is essentially an impossible idea. The colors you need are not there on the screen. What you see is not what you get in terms of color. Give up.
That having been said, you can optimize your results for guestimation purposes. The very first thing I do with ANY display, including on Mac laptops, is go into the 'Displays' preference pane, hit the 'Color' tab and 'Calibrate...' the display. You MUST use 'Expert Mode'. Don't bother with mickey mouse mode. Fiddling with the settings will drive you nuts at first. But practice makes perfect. As long as you are not color blind you WILL get the hang of it, even if you don't understand what it is doing. Don't get psyched out. It works rather well.
When you get to 'Gamma' (you can look these terms up on Wikipedia) you want to use the same Gamma number as the other monitor you will be using for viewing. 1.8 is fine for Macs. Beats me why the 'PC' standard is 2.2. It is essentially a harsher contrast, but try it and use it if you like it, on BOTH monitors. Do NOT use 'native gamma' as it is rare that two displays have identical native gammas.
Next up is your 'white point'. Again, you want both your displays to have the same white point. D50 is the standard for viewing images in daylight. D65 is a bluer 'white point'. 9300 is the bluest of all. These numbers represent 'color temperature' as it is called. The sun has a color temperature hovering around 5000º Kelvin, thus D50 where D = Display. D65 = 6500º Kelvin, etc. Again, there is lots to read about in this field. Do NOT use 'native white point' on your displays if you are color matching because again, they won't be the same on each display.
When you get to the point of naming your color calibration profile you MUST include in the name the gamma number you used and the white point number you used. You will want to know, believe me. Here is why: You are going to want to make further color calibration profiles for different situations either now or in the future. Here's one example:
Lighting environment: Are you working on your MacBook Pro in the dark? Are the walls in the room a neutral color? Or are the walls colored? What kind of light is being used in the room? Fluorescent? Incandescent? Daylight? Details in the lighting environment in which you are working will affect how you perceive color on your display! You may want a morning color profile, an afternoon sun profile, and a night profile. If you have windows near you, these different times of day will affect the light in your work area and how you perceive color on your display. Again, go find a good book if you really want to understand this stuff.
A good basic calibration for plain old every day work, useless for color matching but nice to look at: I go through the calibration process for my lighting environment then use a gamma of 1.8 and I check off 'Use native white point'. Why? LCDs look their best at their native white point. You get good contrast with optimum color. Try it, you'll like it.
:-Derek

Display Calibration Issues

hi,
just upgraded to 10.6.8 and lots of issues.
the biggest is that my 30" cinema display now looks 15-20% lighter.
the screen image (especially in abobe indesign) doesn't look like it did in 10.5.8
and looks lighter than my normal print output.
I've played around with display calibration, but my new settings are really different
from my original settings. and of course, now all my indesign files are out-of-sync
with the abobe color settings and need to be updated, each and every one.
I also read that the new 'target gamma' is now 2.2 for 10.6.8 (as a default), but
when calibrating in SL, isn't not default and you need to know to manually change that.
has anyone else experienced these kind of SL display problems?
if so, how did you correct them?
in the back of my mind I'm thinking it's something with the video card, but
I'll try anything short of messing with that.
bottom line: all was well in 10.5.8.
now with 10.6.8, I've got issues that need to be fixed asap.
jim

my suspicion is snow leopard.
Nope, color works just fine. Something has changed in your setup. If you're using the exact same monitor and printer profiles you had under 10.5.8, color should come out the same under Snow Leopard.
While the default for Snow Leopard is now a 2.2 gamma, it doesn't mean you can't change it. It only means the long supplied Apple profiles are now built with a 2.2 gamma instead of 1.8. You can still build your monitor profiles to any white point and gamma you want.
Color matching is actually much simpler than it sounds. Though I should say the concept is simple. ColorSync is what controls color between devices. If you're trying to match your print to the monitor, ColorSync reads the monitor profile's color space. It does the best it can to make it fit and translate to the printer profile's color space.
That's the simple explanation. But in order for that to work, you need accurate profiles. You'll go through an awful lot of paper and ink trying one unrelated profile after another, and still get nowhere. By "unrelated", I mean using a profile that has nothing to do with the device. Such as choosing "Adobe RGB" as your monitor profile. That profile means nothing in relation to your monitor. It does not describe the white point, gamma or brightness you monitor is necessarily set to, nor the gamut or range of color it can actually display. Same goes for the rest of any profile the system allows you to choose as your monitor profile. They are all generic profiles that in no way describe the device you are looking at. I go into a lot more detail on monitors here.
So when you do use one of those generic monitor profiles, ColorSync can only assume, yes, this must be exactly how the monitor looks that you're viewing. Which of course it doesn't. So naturally, printed color is rarely even close.
The least expensive color management tool you can buy, and at the same time drastically improves your ability to match output to your screen is something like this. Of the two models, definitely get the i1Display Pro. Much faster, accurate unit. Also much better software with more control. Don't bother looking at older colorimeters such the i1Display2, Spyder, or any other previous models. They can't handle the output of today's wide gamut LCD or LED monitors. Gray rarely comes out gray. Usually very greenish or pink. These new models have bee completely redesigned to handle today's monitors. They also handle older monitors just fine.

Wacom CTL-460 (bamboo pen) threshold issue

Hello, I'm not sure if this should be here or in graphics (any mod feel free to advice or move ;) )
I've been having trubble w/ my wacom tablet recently, It used to work fine but after not using it for aprox. 3-4weeks I was in for a suprise when updating the drivers after (several) kernel updates. I am currently runing kernel Linux 2.6.33-ARCH i686 and X server 1.7.6.
I used to install the linuxwacom-bamboo-cth-ctl pakage from AUR (http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php?ID=31540) and configure my tablet through xorg.conf however it no longer seems to work. After a lot of testing and fiddling last night and today I have managed to get it to respond by adding the 10-tablet.fdi file to /etc/hal/fdi/policy/ I'm using the smaller one from the wiki
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> 
<deviceinfo version="0.2">
<device>
<match key="info.capabilities" contains="input">
<match key="info.product" contains="Wacom">
<merge key="input.x11_driver" type="string">wacom</merge>
<merge key="input.x11_options.Type" type="string">stylus</merge>
</match>
<match key="info.product" contains="WALTOP">
<merge key="input.x11_driver" type="string">wacom</merge>
<merge key="input.x11_options.Type" type="string">stylus</merge>
</match>
</match>
<match key="info.product" contains="HID 1b96:0001">
<match key="info.parent" contains="if0">
<merge key="input.x11_driver" type="string">wacom</merge>
<merge key="input.x11_options.Type" type="string">stylus</merge>
</match>
</match>
</device>
</deviceinfo>
However it now seems to not recognise my setings in xorg.conf (I recall there being somthing about the .fdi-file ranking higher, but don't remember where I read it.) So the tablet works but has a massiv threshold mening I have to press really hard for any type of response. I used to set the threshold to 5 in xorg.conf. But now it ignores that and sets a (default?) value of 27. Atleast thats what I'm getting from the Xorg.0.log
[sebb@Pablo ~]$ cat /var/log/Xorg.0.log | grep Wacom
(II) config/hal: Adding input device Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger
(II) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: x-axis range 0 - 480
(II) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: y-axis range 0 - 320
(II) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: pressure range 0 - 1023
(II) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: finger width range 0 - 0
(II) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: buttons: double triple
(--) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: touchpad found
(**) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: always reports core events
(II) XINPUT: Adding extended input device "Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger" (type: TOUCHPAD)
(**) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: (accel) keeping acceleration scheme 1
(**) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: (accel) acceleration profile 0
(--) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Finger: touchpad found
(II) config/hal: Adding input device Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen
(**) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen: always reports core events
(II) XINPUT: Adding extended input device "Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen" (type: STYLUS)
(--) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen: using pressure threshold of 27 for button 1
(--) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen: Wacom USB Bamboo tablet speed=38400 maxX=14720 maxY=9200 maxZ=1023 resX=2540 resY=2540 tilt=disabled
(--) Wacom Bamboo 4x5 Pen: top X=0 top Y=0 bottom X=14720 bottom Y=9200 resol X=2540 resol Y=2540
[sebb@Pablo ~]$
So my question would be where to set this option as it seems to ignore my old setting? I'v tried various settings in xorg.conf but all are ignored.
The "Calibrating Tablet"-skript from the wiki http://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Wac … ing_Tablet mentions something like this in the comments, but I'm not sure how to use it on the arch-system as the comments are for ubuntu. (It seems to mention several rc.d directories in /etc/ (?))
I simply don't get it, Thanks a lot to anyone that does.
//Habmala

Update
I got my hopes up a bit reading more at the wiki and trying the script w/ xsetwacom I also tried xsetwacom without the script but in both cases it seems to have no effect. I can edit the same options as in xorg.conf but they don't seem to get througt to what-ever-controls-the-tablet.
Update again
I seem to have done some misscalculations. I get the same behaviour even without the .fdi-file. My current guess is that xorg doesn't know what to do with the device and passes it to HAL that doesn't have my settings, OR xorg reads and uses the xorg.conf but gets run-over by HAL?
It seems that in the end it's allways HAL that ends up last in the xorg log. Also it is HAL that adds the FINGER option I dont have that in the hardware, I think maybe Hal is trying to be nice but not quite hitting the mark. I'll have to read up.
Last edited by Habmala (2010-05-25 14:22:49)

L220x and i1display2 calibration issue

I am attempting to calibrate my monitor with an i1 display2 with latest software from X-rite and having issues with RGB Controls (possibly other things not sure)
Basically regardless of whether i use presets or custom I am unable to move the RGB bars when adjusting the Gamma. the bars basically alertnate right/left/right and are at the max on that side. Regardless of how i manually adjust colors thru the osd the bars will not move and center.
In the my Green Gamma is way off. Wondering if I am doing something wrong. Could someone who has this device post hwo they did it.
Thanks in advance for your help
Kevin

eric,
I noticed the same thing. using Native White Point the Gamma behaves correctly. I then saw a not at X-Rite's site that said to change to Laptop mode. I tried that also and yeilded better results.
What is perplexing is why it is happening. Something like that bugs the heck out of me, hehe. Going to fiddle with it some more and see what I come up with. I am also considering using an open source calibration software (some french made thing can't remember name right now) and see what happens.
Then lastly thinking of hooking the monitor back up to my laptop since that is a ATI vid card versus the Nvidia I am hooked to now.
Wonder if that has any impact. Oh eric, question for ya did you have an issue when adjusting the RGB Control settings in the iMatch software not adjust towards the center (green area). the markers are basically at the far edges and no matter how I adjust those settings they basically don't move.
Message Edited by sonicdivx on 09-23-2008 05:39 AM

Spoken feedback and calibration issues

Hi all. I found an older thread on these problems but it had been archived so I couldn't reply. Thought I'd start another in case there are new solutions and to see whether issues persist for others.
The spoken feedback works for 2-3 runs and then quits. Resetting takes care of that so I try to remember to reset every other day or so... a pain needless to say.
Now, my runs are being severly underestimated and when I try to calibrate I am not given the option on the calibration dial to increase the distance...I can only plug in a lesser number. It used to give me a range below and above the recorded run but not anymore. Same thing happens when I try to calibrate a certain distance prior to running.
I did see where folks mentioned resetting the sensor so I will try that but not sure how to do that. I'll post back with the results of that.

Alright. After resetting the sensor (i.e., turning it off and then on a day later), my next run was more accurately measured but still off about .3 of a mile. The next run, however, was very accurate and I had the option to increase the distance on the calibration dial if I desired.
Hope this helps others who've had issues with accuracy and calibration

HP TX2000 Pen Calibration Issue(s)

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