HP Wireless mouse went bad.

HP Notebook G62t-350
Windows 7
Wireless Mouse
==================
In November 2010 I bought from HP the HP Notebook G62t-350, an HP Wireless Mouse and Extended Warranty.
The wireless mouse does not work anymore. I contacted HP technical support and I was told that the wireless mouse warrant had expired.
Is not the wireless mouse clovered under the extended warranty?
Please advise.
Thank you.

My mouse left cick wouldn't work. In the "lid" the prong that activates the clicker had broken off.

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However, I noticed that once everything was finished, my wireless mouse started acting strange. It started lagging periodically, so I thought the batteries may be bad. I changed them, and it didn't help. I plugged in a different wireless mouse, and the same thing is happening. They're both logitech - don't know if that matters. I've played around with the system preferences for the mouse, and nothing seems to work.
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I've been using my wireless mouse more recently (Rapoo 1620) on my 64-bit installation of Arch Linux (64-bit, using XMonad), and it generally works okay but with a frequent slightly annoying issue - it tends to stop working after I switch to typing on my keyboard then try to use my mouse again. Once it does start working, as long as I keep using it it will very rarely (if at all - I can't entirely recall) lock up again - only after I go back to using the keybaord and my mouse remains inactive for a period of time.
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I would be concerned that you may have a power supply going bad. Unfortunately the only way to test this theory is to replace it. If you do replace it may sure you get one that is rated at a high enough wattage to supply your system. I use a 500 watt power supply. I have had power supplies to go bad on me in the past. Sometimes the power supplies will not go entirely out, they just stop producing as much power as they normally would. This can cause some weird things to happen in your system. I've had one go bad and it was providing enough juice to let my computer cut on, but the video card wasn't getting enough?juice to operate thus I was getting a blank screen. I would also like to know if you are overclocking. Sometimes overclocking can cause heat issues that could cause a similar problem to what you are having.

Wireless mouse/keyboard intermittent dis-connects

In the last three days, I have looked at over 20 different posts regarding wireless mouse/keyboard disconnect problems. Thew fixes ranged all over the board and NONE fixed it. And, none of these problems matched mine exactly, except for one other. I too, have two iMacs and this problem has over the last few days gotten increasingly worse and irritating. Regardless of what you're doing, whether it is actual productive work, or playing a stupid game on your computer, when your mouse quits responding, and the graphic flashed on the screen "MOUSE DISCONNECTED", it irritates.
I think a senior apple tech finally pin-pointed the problem, at least for my two systems. It has nothing at all to do with Bluetooth or Wireless networking. I tried ALL of those fixes including resetting the SMC. None fixed it.
Here is what the tech had me do. Under System Preferences > Users & Groups > My Login, I then clicked on "Login items. I was astounded to see a list that exceeded the size of the window of "startup" programs that have been installed from iTunes Helper, to Dropbox to blah, blah, blah. You name it. He had me remove ALL of them except iTunes Helper. one item "Connect service (all users) could not be removed. However, as we later discussed, the specific item the I believe to be the culprit was "Bittorrent". I've forgotten what I downloaded that used that as the download agent, but in the future, I shall NEVER AGAIN use it for ANY reason. I also removed from the applications area, some non-used programs (that probably weren't the problem, but...), emptied the trash, re-booted and have not had the problem since. I want to stress here, that if your problem is actually Bluetooth or Wireless network related, this will not fix it. However, my mouse had gotten really molassesy in that when I would try to quickly move from one spot to another on the screen, it took some time to catch up, as if something else had control. That's what I think Bittorrent or someone trying to share one of my files was causing. I don't share my files. Period. I didn't realize that it could be subverted to that use of I wouldn't have ever used it in the first place.
Anyway, neither one of my iMacs has exhibited ANY of the former symptoms since clearing that list on each system. Turns out, my second iMac also had Bittorrent in the list. That's about the only thing the two have in common besides Yosemite 10.10.3. Maybe this will help, maybe it won't. I sure hope it does. Forums like this one are extremely helpful to me.

I had the same problem... didn't find anything useful in the forums. Just on a whim, I went to the
Control Panel | Device Manager | Universal Serial Bus Controllers
For each "Hub", right click and select "properties"
On each properties page, select "Power Management" tab
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I did this for the Generic USB Hubs, the USB Root Hubs, and the Reneasas...Hub. After that was completed, all USB ports started working immediately. So far, they are staying working but it has only been an hour or so. Will report back if this doesn't stick. Also, there may be a more elegant solution... but this works for now.

HT3078 When I opened up my Apple Wireless Mouse to replace the batteries, there was a metallic "strip" inside. I have no idea how it goes back in and it isn't shown in the instructions here. Where does it go?

I have an Apple Wireless Mouse (model A1015 EMC No. 1938).
I metal "strip" fell out. I can not figure out how to put the strip back in.
Leaving it out, the mouse doesn't work (no light, no nothing).
Does the strip actually belong and if so, where does it go?
I went to the Apple site and looked up how to replace the batteries and started off saying to turn off the mouse. I have no idea how to turn off the mouse. It also did not show a metal strip on the inside.
When I opened the mouse, the battery cover popped off. Without the metal strip, the cover does not pop off and is very hard to remove.
HELP!!!

See: https://discussions.apple.com/message/1958068#1958068

My Imac is not finding my wireless keyboard, i have replaced batteries with no luck. My wireless mouse works fine.

My keyboard wasnt responding so i changed the batteries and still got no response. i rebooted and mac still doesnt show if is finding the keyboard. my wireless mouse is working fine. But becuase i rebooted, now i cant type in my password and am locked out of the system. Not sure if keyboard is bad or if it is problem with the imac?

Can you borrow a wired keyboard? And / or take the keyboard into an Apple Store and ask if you can try it on one of their Macs.

Need help identifying Apple Wireless Mouse

I was given a PowerBook G4 laptop at a recent Mac user group meeting. My plan for the computer is to donate the laptop and the parts and pieces given to me to a local agency. The agency will then give it so some family that needs but can't afford a computer.
The computer came with Tiger, and I have the disks. But the (presumed) original owner has installed 10.5 Leopard and I have the disk for that.
In looking around Apple, I think this is a bluetooth version of the Mighty Mouse. But I've been unable to locate a photo that matches this mouse.
It looks like a Mighty Mouse on the outside, but remove the battery cover and it doesn't match any photo and/or manual I've found.
At the end of the mouse where the sliding switch/LED cover is located, and under the cover, there is a sliding switch marked + and -. On the batt cover, the Model is A1015 but a search has returned 0 results.
I assume that to turn the mouse on, you slide the cover to expose the LED light. And, the light should turn on. But, it doesn't. The batteries are good.
In looking at the mouse, I think the sliding cover should depress what I'll call a switch, ahen when I manually depress the switch, the LED turns on, and is discovered. Without the light on, the computer will not discover the mouse. After discovery, and continuing to hold the switch down to keep the LED on, the mouse will not pair up to the computer. Just for FYI, I get the same results trying to pair to my iMac with Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
Which leaves me with the following questions:
Is this a Mighty Mouse?
Is there a manual and/or photo of this mouse somewhere?
Should the red LED turn on when the sliding cover exposes the LED?
Will it only work with Tiger?
Is there something small that is missing from the battery cover that would depress the switch properly?
Does it only work with Tiger?
What does the switch with the + and - do?
Ken

Hi, twtwtw,
well, without having it in hand I can't really see how it's supposed to attach or what exactly it does.
Photos of the battery cover and spring disasembled and assembled.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpw15yseg0a5w2m/Battery%20cover%20unassembled.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/56sbnv31usewthr/Battery%20cover%20assembled.jpg
I just have the pieces laying in the correct position, no permanent repair. Would have simply thrown them on the scanner, but the all-in-one unit with scanner that was installed was removed yesterday to be donated with the laptop mentioned in my original post.
The round end of the spring pops the battery cover off when the latch is released. The other end depresses the switch in the mouse when the slide in the battery cover is moved.
it looks like they can be taken apart - there's a teardown of a different model at ifixit.com, which you might be able to adapt.
The wired version of a mouse similar in construction to that unit came with my iMac. When the trackball stopped scrolling, I found out you had to end up using Super Glue to reassemble, and that's no way to design a product, IMO. But, I always hated that mouse, it didn't fit my hand, and typing on the keyboard reminds me of the horrible "chiclet" keypads of yesteryear, and I replaced both with an old Apple Pro keyboard and a Microsoft USB wireless mouse that actually fit my hand!!! What a concept!
The thing at the top (between the +/-) looks more like a latch than a switch to me. is it holding the bottom plate in place?
There is the proverbial Tab A on the cover that fits into Slot B on the mouse, but the the sliding thing does nothing to affect the tab/slot that I can determine. Possibly, it may control the amount of movement vertically you apply to get a "mouse press", but at the moment I've not tested that theory.
I think the +/- bit really is just a guide for battery installation.
"Illogical", as Mr. Spock would say. The orientation of the +/- is 90º to the battery installation. And both batteries are installed with the + end towards this end of the mouse.
if attaching the the piece of metal is just a matter of broken pins, though, you could try super-gluing it in place.
Super glue was my first thought, but spring steel is hard to get liquid type adhesives to adhere to. I also thought of using Gorilla Glue, if you're familiar with it. It's hard to find stuff that Gorilla Glue won't bond to with some degree of success.
I dug out my freestanding magnifier, and it almost looks like the "pins" probably had an upper, smaller in dia. part, that may have been melted over the spring to hold the spring in place.
and no matter what you say, tape is always an option.
LOL! Hope that was a joke for real, as that never an option for my repairs. If done, it's cheap and cheezy, as if you don't care what kind of workmanship you have.
With respect to the link... did you seriously keep hitting that link and sitting through the sarcasimation, rather than typing the words into a new google window yourself? Heck, you could have copy/pasted the text instead of typing it, or bookmarked the resulting google page for future reference, or..., or...
To start with, Google is almost never my search engine of first choice. Why? I've not trusted them with anything since they were caught violating privacy issues, more than once. My first choices are DuckDuckGo, Startpage, and IxQuick, because those search engines do not track your searches and surfing habits. Where I go and what I do is no one's business. I don't want that info given/sold/stolen by marketers, spammers, scammers, hackers, et. al.
Startpage and IxQuick appear to be from the same folks.
So I have all the trackers blocked as best as possible, Javascript disabled, etc., which makes getting the encrypted URL to work is, well, extra work. Simply copying and pasting the encrypted URL is therefore blocked. I see no value other than shorter typed links in email, forums, newsgroups, etc. to the shortened links, plus making bucks for the folks at TinyURL and others that create them for you. And of course, they are tracking you to.
So, as you may have guessed by now, I do not use Safari. <grin>
I didn't plan on doing it more than once, but had to when you replied. And I've already got too damned many bookmarks.
Dude.
And I'm neither a Dude or Dudette. But been online before there was a world wide web, and a 1200 baud modem was state of the art.
It seems to me that you are suffering from a chronic case of missing-the-point. The first time you clicked that link it was me wasting your time; my bad, but gotcha, laughs all around.
Did not miss the point, and I am not laughing. Wasting the time of your friends is one thing, wasting the time of strangers is simply bad manners.
Any time you clicked it after that you knew what was going to happen, so you were wasting your own time. You're complaining that your time is being wasted because you just won't google it yourself - what am I supposed to do with that except ?
I will plead guilty to assuming that Apple would have documentation on their own website, n'cest-ce pas? (To save you some Googling and unencrypting URLs, http://www.yourdictionary.com/n-est-ce-pas) If Apple had the info on their site, the seach engine would/should have found that link, and I would than have wasted my time with a Google search when it shouldn't have been necessary. I learned a long time ago, to always, always check the mfgr.'s site first for the correct information.

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Ok In the UK John Lewis sell the iMac with a 2 year warranty as standard. However it has to be a stock one.
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What do you think is the best option? The wireless mouse seperate to buy is £50!!! alone
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These are simply my opinions but:
All Apple mice are worse than useless. I actually paid the £12 extra for the wireless one. I lasted about 20 minutes and it went back in the box. I'd rather have a functional mouse. So I'm sticking with my nice Microsoft mice which are actually comfortable to hold and the five buttons are great for Exposé, Dashboard etc.
250GB is pretty small nowadays. With the amount of digital content most of us have now you'll run out pretty quickly.
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mrtotes

Recommendations for a Bluetooth/wireless mouse that is not a MIghty Mouse

I'm tired of having problems with my Bluetooth mighty mouse, and want to know what other people are using for a Bluetooth or wireless mouse. IMO, the trackball on the Mighty Mouse is a major design flaw, that is easily clogged with dirt or dust, and the frequent cleaning is either time consuming, or not very effective. I've tried pretty much everything ever suggested in these forums to fix the Mighty Mouse, and I'm to the point where I'd just rather something else, preferably a traditional two-button design, with a scroll wheel.
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I give the Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 five stars. Yeah, I know, how can MM from Apple be so bad, and anything from MS be great. The 8000 is a full 5-button mouse, 4-way scrolling, programmable, rechargeable, bluetooth mouse. Pairs easily with the bluetooth on my iBook or iMac. You can find it for around $60, but get this. You don't need the BT dongle, so sell it on eBay and recover your $60.
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TP Precision Wireless mouse vs. Laser Wireless mouse

Hello!
My nerves got totally dead after some time using a cable mouse from Genius. I decided to buy new, wireless one. I have few adepts, two of them belongs under Lenovo brand.
Cheaper: Precision Wireless mouse: http://www.lenovoshop.cz/lenovo-mys-thinkpad-precision-wireless-mouse-1600dpi-cerna-midnight_i566926...
More expensive: Laser Wireless mouse http://shop.lenovo.com/ISS_Static/ww/ag/merchandising/options/images/large/_460_0_0A36188_V1.jpg
Which one would you reconmend? Do you have any experiences with one of them? Materials, noise, build quality? Have you been using both and can you say some pros/cons? Shall I rather choose Logitech? In my country, TP Wireless mouse is almost twice as expensive.
Thank you and best wishes to upcoming New year!
Skrble
(Please, excuse my bad english, thank you)

Hello
both mice do have similar built quality (both have Thinkpad logo) and both follow same details (click sound, click travel etc.). So it is more about features and functions to decide.
I would personally go with Laser mouse as Laser works on more surfaces and provides better tracking. That's also why it is a bit more expensive than Precision mouse.
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(not a technical support)
http://blog.lenovo.com/author/jsolar/

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Hello to everyone,
My wireless mouse does not work. The symptoms are: The mouse is completely unresponsive, as if it had no power at all (cannot be turned on, no red laser, no interaction with CPU).
How I came to notice the problem:
I installed the mousesuite from lenovo/support/mousesuite. Then I restarted the computer. After this, I connected the USB Bluetooth Adapter to a USB port of the ThinkPad 430s 2352 CTO. I tried to turn the mouse on. No changes were noticed, Mouse still offline, no light. Tried a different set of battery & tried the wireless button. No change. Reinstalled the mousesuite. No noticeable change.
I believe the mouse might be broken. Could anyone please provide me with support as to how I could solve this? In the case that it is non-functional, how do I return it to lenovo? Is it under my one year guaranty (I bought it as an accessory on my command for my laptop)?
Thanks for your answers!
ph423

Hi,
Your migration to Lion brought over a previous hot key preferences document. And this contains one bad key that wasn't updated.
- Quit System Preferences (if open)
- Delete this document to remove a carry-over mapping error.
- Then logout
Note: That this will delete any existing modified keyboard assignments. Re-assign changes manually.
Note2: This document is in your users preferences folder.
~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.symbolichotkeys.plist
-Alan

Why is my new wireless mouse jerky on my macbook pro?

I've been using a cheap Dynex wireless mouse (as well as a wired mouse when I'm at work) on this MacBook for a while with no problems whatsoever. The Dynex's buttons are starting to malfunciton, so I went to buy a new mouse....
1st try -- I got some cheap Microsoft mouse from Best Buy. The movement was very erratic and jerky. I downloaded and installed the mouse software and adjusted settings there, to no avail.
2nd try -- I bought a slightly more expensive Logitech M510 wireless mouse. It felt slightly different, but the result was essentially the same. The movement is jerky -- erratic. Sometimes, the mouse jumps inches across the screen instead of moving in a slow steady manner like it's supposed to. It appears to worsen when I boot up and play a game on the computer.
Given the fact that the same problem occurred with two different new mice, but not with the old worn-out one, I must assume that there is some incompatability between MacBook Pros and newer models of wireless mice. I can't seem to find any consistent "known issue" pages on this. Anyone know what I should do now? Any ideas?
MacBook Pro
15-inch, Late 2011
Processor: 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory: 8GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB
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The wireless mice you're buying.... are they 2.4GHz wireless ones (the ones that come with their own micro-dongle) or Bluetooth? If they're the 2.4GHz wireless ones, go buy yourself a good bluetooth one. Your Mac has bluetooth in it and can connect to one of these mice without the need to use the dongle that comes with them. I've seen a quite a bit of issues (jerky movement due to low battery too far away or other movement problems) with the non-bluetooth wireless ones.
Also, be aware that if the mice you're using are laser based, the movement will be laggy and jerky if they're not used on the proper surface. Only the more expensive ones have better laser systems in them that can be used on multiple surfaces, but still not all.

Wireless mouse a half a step behind

Just bought the mouse at the Apple store today, and everything went fine with the installation. Everything else is working fine, except when I highlight a link there's about a one second delay before the mouse is ready for the click. If I click before a second or so, nothing happens. Any suggestions?
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Jodice, welcome to the forum.
There are 4 USB 2.0 ports in the Back I/O ports. I suggest testing them with another USB device to assure that they work before buying a wireless mouse. I have a HP Split x2 and a HP Phoenix 810. I use a Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500 with both of them. It is a smaller mouse, but works great. I bought them on sale at Staples for $14.95 each. If the ports work a wireless mouse should work fine.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
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**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
I am not an HP employee.

Why does wireless mouse disconnect on every restart?

My wireless mouse has started to disconnect, never to be found again, on every restart after 10.6.1. Only after several attempts and restarts does it connect again.
I was wondering if anyone knew a fix for this.

Try setting the wireless to manual and fixed channels.. the auto channel swapping does cause issues.. I would also give different names to 2.4ghz and 5ghz so you know clearly which wireless you are connected to.
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Bluetooth Quick Assist
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1153
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