HT1147 Do I need to defrag a Mac?
Do I need to defrag an iMac?
if you have a large number of files taking longer time to read/write, regularly creating a lot of files like photo editing files (making them smaller and then larger again in size).Fragmented Files can slow down your applications and longer system startup launch.
Support Link: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1375
If your disks are almost full, and you often modify or create large files (such as editing video, but see the Tip below if you use iMovie and Mac OS X 10.3), there's a chance the disks could be fragmented. In this case, you might benefit from defragmentation, which can be performed with some third-party disk utilities.
Similar Messages
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Just a heads up for my fellow Mac users.
"How do I defrag my mac?"
"You don't need to, ever. It does it automatically."
"But it's running really slowly..."
"Repair permissions or something. Defragging is not necessary on a mac."
Techtool pro is now defragmenting my mac. Looks like the job's going to take about 4 hours. I thought I'd give everyone the truth about this while waiting (on a different computer obviously)
The truth is, Apple's defragmenting system ***** BALLS. It has two massive, massive flaws which I feel people urgently need to be made aware of.
#1: It only defragments files up to 20mb. If you're a movie producer, a songwriter, a photographer, or anything which involves working with many massive files, the built in defragmenting program WILL NOT HELP YOU IN THE SLIGHTEST.
#2: It only defragments FILES. Free space is ignored, which eventually causes absolutely hrrendous problems.
Let me give you an analogy here. Imagine your mac's hard drive is a bookcase with lots of books on it.
File fragmentation is when it can't find a gap in the bookcase big enough for the entire book, so it breaks the book into pieces and srotes them in different gaps.
Space fragmentation is when there are gaps all over the bookcase, instead of all the books being pushed to one side so there's a long gap elsewhere.
Apple's built in defragmenting program will only fix the first problem - and even then, it will ignore any book bigger than 20 pages long, if you have bigger books which are broken up, you're screwed.
Why is space fragmentation a problem? It's a problem because it directly LEADS TO file fragmentation. If there is a large block of free space all in one part of the disk, then an entire file can be written to it. However, if there is no single free block big enough for the file, it HAS NO CHOICE but to fragment it.
So basically you might have 5 GB free and want to save a 2GB imovie project. That's cool. But what you may not realize is, the biggest single area of free space is only say 600MB. Others are around 300 and 400. Therefore the file MUST be fragmented into all these different areas, which wouldn't be necessary if all the free space was in one area of the disk.
But apple's built in tools don't do anything about this, at least not in Tiger. PErhaps this has been fixed in later installations but I'm almost certain the same issues exist in leopard.
Your only option is to buy a defragmenting program. I know this ***** but believe me, this IS something you NEED to do if your activity on your laptop involves disk space - intensive projects. I'm using TechTool Pro which has been recommended to me as hands down the best. It has a number of other functions as well, right now I'm only using the defragmenting tools but it has others for repairing damages disk sectors and other mantainence tools. There are other programs such as iDefrag out there as well.
Why am I telling you this? I'm telling you because I experienced mind numbing frustration trying to get answers from the Apple community. Google it or ask the question yourself and you will most likely be whacked in the face with the intro to my post here - "You don't need to, it's not necessary, macs do it themselves, blah blah blah"
Even worse, Apple's own webpage on the subject is nothing short of a disaster. It basically says "You PROBABLY don't need to defragment, unless you work with large files." That's it. You'd expect it to have an extra section saying "If you DO happen to work with large files, here's what you do" but no such section exists. It basically says "You don't need to defrag most of the time, and on the rare occasions when you do, well, too bad, you're screwed."
I urge everyone to heed this or they will be tearing their hair out at how slow their mac has become and the fact that no one will offer any meaningful advice other than the standard, generic, "Repair permissions" - the Mac equivelant of "have you tried turning it off and on again".
My disk is at 99% fragmented free space. NINTEY NINE PERCENT. In other words, although I have 25GB of free space, there was not a single contiguous block on the entire machine. I had almost 5,000 fragmented files as well, mostly imovies. Defragmenting got this down to about 300.
The defrag job is taking more than 4 hours and will probably go on to take a lot longer than that. This machine has been slowly grinding to a halt over the last 3 years and now I know why.
Please don't listen to anyone. Get yourself a defragmenting folder, and email Apple to tell them it's just not good enough to give their customers half assed answers and inadequate basic maintainence tools. Mac OS X must literally be the only operating system out there where something as basic as defragmenting is not only almost impossible to get answers on, but actually costs money to fix once you DO get answers.
As customers, we should not accept this any longer. I intend to spread the above message far and wide.
I LOVE Apple. I've always been "a mac" and I always will be. This in no way a mac bashing post or a windows endorsing one. I wouldn't switch back to windows if you gave me a million euro.
But sometimes even the best developers can royally f*ck up. This is one of them.
There is no readon people should be forced to put up with this crap. Absolutely no reason at all. I've had 3 months of crappy performance with no official explanation whatsoever.
Apple if you're reading this: I love your products. I'm a loyal customer. People are more forgiving than you think, speak up, admit you dropped the ball, and DO something about it in your next updates to Lion and whichever versions of Leopard you are still actively maintaining.
There's no shame in admitting when you're wrong. The shame is in hiding behind false promises and walls of silence.
--Loyal customer, but feeling rather betrayed by all this.The old rule of thumb was to keep 10-12 GB free. Any lower than that and you will start to have trouble. I was very close to that for a long time and never had any complaints. Now, Lion "encourages" 20% free space (on my newer 250 GB drive) so I try to keep it with more than 50 GB free.
Do you still have the original memory in that machine too? The metal plate you have to remove in the battery compartment also provides access to the RAM. Your machine will take 2 GB of RAM, possibly 3. You definitely want to max that out too.
Regardless, you definitely need a new hard drive. When Apple switched to PC components, they had to take a quality hit. These 2.5" notebook hard drives are not very reliable. I'm surprised your hard drive hasn't died by now. I usually get a new hard drive with every major OS upgrade. A $ 50 investment every couple of years is no big deal.
Unfortunately, you (and I) suffer from being an early adopter in 2006. Those 32-bit machines only accept 2 GB RAM (maybe 3) and are only 32-bit so they can't be upgraded to Lion. Because of this limitation, you won't see as dramatic an improvement as you would with a 2007 machine. If you run more than a couple of applications, your hard drive is always going to have to be doing some VM work. My 2006 machine has even lost its bluetooth. I gave it to my brother. My very similar 2007 Macbook is still running great.
So, you must get a new hard drive because your old one is likely on death's door. If you don't have at least 2 GB - get it. If you can't afford a new machine, you might want to consider an SSD. That might help mitigate your RAM limitations. You can spend from $ 100 to $ 350 and get a dramatic speed improvement. -
Do I need to defrag my iMac hard drive like I do on a PC?
If so, how do I do this?
Thanks.The basic answer is that there's no need to defragment drives on modern (e.g., not Microsoft) filesystems. This is as true of the Linux native filesystems as it is of the Mac OS X native ones.
The longer answer is that the strategy used to store data on disk on modern filesystems essentially avoids fragmentation altogether. The problem of fragmentation was recognized in the 1970s and more or less solved at that time. UNIX filesystems adopted these strategies 20-25 years ago and the native filesystems of Linux and Mac OS X are derived from them. The strategy works while there's sufficient free space on the disk (depending on the size,
that could be between 1% and 10% f the disk - the bigger the disk, the smaller the percentage). If the disk fills up, the last few files written may become fragmented, but at this point there's simply not sufficient disk space left to avoid it or fix the problem (Windows, likewise, reaches a point when a disk becomes so full it's effectively impossible to defragment it).
That leaves Microsoft's NTFS and FAT filesystems as the last widely-used hold-outs that experience regular fragmentation. -
Do I need to defragment my iMac?
Hi Guys,
I have a question - do I need to defragment my iMac? I have noticed it is getting slower.
blueheron11Well, I'm going to put a contrary view to others you have received here, blueheron.
Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.
Cheers
Rod -
I need help with my MAC. It has been going quite slow lately, and it definitely shouldn't be. It took about 15 minutes just to import a CD. So my question is how do I de-frag this thing? Will it work and possibly speed things up? Will it wipe out any important things? Is there something more effective I could do to speed this thing up? Thank you!
What capacity is your hard drive and how much available free space is left on it? Right click on your Macintosh HD from the desktop and get Info. Generally you do not need to defrag your hard drive on a Mac. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1375?viewlocale=en_US
As general maintenance open up Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility select your hard drive on the left and under the First Aid tab click Repair Disk Permissions then Verify Disk.
You might also want to download and install Onyx. It's a handy app that among other things will let you run the maintenance tasks.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2319?viewlocale=en_US
http://www.titanium.free.fr/pgs2/english/download.html
George -
Should I defrag my Mac HHD (internal) before installing OS X Yosemite?
Should I defrag my Mac internal HHD before installing the new Yosemite OS X?
No. But you should:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions - Yosemite, Mavericks, Mountain Lion or Lion
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Now be sure to make a backup of the current system before upgrading. Be sure you need to upgrade. There is really no need to do so as yet.
See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps. -
Need to boot broken Mac-Mini using retail Snow Leopard 10.6 DVD
Hi,
In Summary:
==========
I have Mac Mini (late 2009) which does not boot anymore and I need to install Snow Leopard using retail DVD (version 10.6). The OS/installer from the DVD does not seem to boot either. I always very much appreciate the efforts of true geeks. So please, any casual beginner, please do not demoralize with something like "cannot be done" etc.
The complete story:
==================
The start of the problem:
1. All of a sudden, one fine day, on start up, my Mac Mini strated to shut itself down without no apparent reason to me. When trying to boot, it would show a progress bar for about 5 minutes - I am assuming that was disk-consistency check being performed. My best guess is that right after the use of Carbon-Copy Cloner (but I am not 100% sure) it all strated to happen.
2. Performed Mac's Disk-Util check and [Verify Volume] used to display "invalid directory item count, should be 31 instead of 29". Surface scan said disk hardware is 100% fine. Volume Repair never worked, since OS X was installed on the primary disk. I lost the DVDs that came with this Mac Mini, so the option to boot from that DVD and launch Disk Util etc. was not possible.
TechTool Pro - No Help:
3. Started googling and had to choose between [TechTool Pro] and [Disk Warrior], opted for TechTool Pro. Tried its bootable DVD only to learn that TechTool Pro cannot fix it. Again, it's surface scan suggested disk hardware is 100% fine. Sent the details to TechTool Pro support team, they couldn't help either after a couple of e-mails+data exchange. (How do I claim my lost money with TechTool Pro - suggestions appreciated as well).
Googling / Mac Forums:
4. Started looking into forums, learnt that someone had successfully repaired this problem using Ubuntu 11.04 install DVD (i.e., without installing the Ubuntu, but just using its 'try from DVD' feature). I had that handy, but forgot to disable HFS+ journaling before attempting to fix the problem. Anyway, attempting volume repair that way couldn't fix the problem as well. However this step took away my ability to boot from Mac.
5. However using Ubuntu's bootable disk, I could access Mac-HDDs contents - and was able to successfully back-up *all* my important data.
6. Googled and learnt that just attempting to boot using Ubuntu DVD can take away ability to boot using Mac bootable media - possibly due to EFI internals. Suspecting EFI is now corrupt, I tried other 'hacks' like:
6.1 eEFIt Boot Disk - which does not work at all,
6.2 Empire EFI w/ Chameleon - not sure how to proceed with options presented - trying either does not work,
6.3 Super GRUB2 - boots fine, but attempting to boot from Mac-HDD fails after a couple of seconds,
6.4 Boot-132 - boots fine, prompt asks for input, but then I cannot eject/replace the DVD due to Mac-Mini (lack of) design,
6.5 Ubuntu 11.04 / 11.10 - still boots fine - just that I cannot go into Mac-OS-X from here,
6.6 TechTool Pro bootable DVD - which used to boot fine earlier stopped to boot.
As you can see, none worked successfully. So I didn't yet try other popular rescue media - as I suspect that is not the direction I need to go into.
>> Looks like most of my problems are due to the fact that I have Mac-Mini which does not allow eject/replace of DVD from command prompt / out side of Mac-OS-X.
7. Tried emptying EFI partition, playing with EFI/Mac-OS partitions boot flags, Zapping the PRAM, nothing still allows me to boot either from Mac-HDD or any Mac-Bootable-DVD.
Current State:
8. Now while boot time, Mac displays a gray screen for a few seconds, and then a blinking prompt on black background. That's it!
Snow Leopard 10.6 Retail Install DVD:
9. Went to Mac store and bought this DVD only to witness that I can't boot from it as well. (This is a huge shocker, how is Apple able to sell these DVDs if these don't work on genuine MacMini itself. After all we are able to boot from and install Windows/Linux on a variety of Machines).
I am hoping for a very small step/fix that I am missing, since I can still see and access all Mac-HDD contents after booting from Ubuntu bootable DVD. However I am prepared for a good amount of exercise as well - assuming someone posts a valid/verified fix.
Things available right now:
==========================
A. Genuine Mac-Mini (Late 2009) who lost it's ability to boot either from its HDD or Mac-bootable DVDs (TechTools Pro, Mac OS X retail DVD)
B. Mac OS X 10.6 Retail DVD
C. NOT AVAILABLE - DVD that came with this Mac-Mini
D. Variety of rescue DVDs, listed in section 6 above
E. Another machine/PC with Ubuntu 11.04 - giving me ability to access internet
Thanks for reading.
ZitaI had a similar discussion recently with another user.
Your Mac mini (late 2009) originally came with Mac OS X 10.6.2 build 10A432 or build 10C2234 see http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1159 it would have come with an original install disc specific to your model of Mac which you could use to run Disk Utility from or to do a complete reinstall.
The retail boxed copy of Mac OS X 10.6 (Snow Leopard) was originally intended for older Macs which had previously come with Mac OS X 10.5 or 10.4. It would have on it a version of Mac OS X 10.6 or 10.6.1 which would be able to boot these older Macs, but had no need to boot newer Macs which were released after the launch of Mac OS X 10.6 since all those newer Macs already shipped with their own discs.
So it is normal that the retail boxed Snow Leopard installer does not work on your model Mac mini. You should be using the one that shipped with your Mac mini instead. I am guessing you have lost it.
Assuming you have lost the Mac mini original disc, I can suggest the following options to try and workaround this.
If you have another Mac, an older Mac, one that will be bootable using the retail Snow Leopard install disc you have, you could do either of the following.
Connect an empty external GUID partitioned hard disk to this other Mac
Boot from the retail Snow Leopard installer
Install on to the external disk
Once the install is complete, update it using the combo update not the one via Software Update to Mac OS X 10.6.8. This will add all the newer drivers needed to allow it to work on your newer Mac mini. You can download this combo update from here http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399
You can now disconnect the external drive and connect it to your Mac mini and boot from it by holding down the Option key when you turn the Mac mini on
or a similar process if you want to wipe the Mac mini and reinstall directly on to it
Boot the Mac mini in FireWire Target Disk Mode (see http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1661 )
Connect the Mac mini as an external hard disk to the other older Mac
Boot from the retail Snow Leopard installer
Install on to the external disk
Once the install is complete, update it using the combo update not the one via Software Update to Mac OS X 10.6.8. This will add all the newer drivers needed to allow it to work on your newer Mac mini. You can download this combo update from here http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399
You can now disconnect the Mac mini and boot from it as normal
Note: While the Mac mini is connected in FireWire Target Disk mode to the second Mac, you could backup (if you don't already have a backup) any files you need to retrieve.
If you don't have a suitable second Mac you may have to either borrow someone else's, or get the help of an Apple Store if one is in your area. -
which cable do I need to connect my Mac Book Pro to my Panasonic PV-GS150 video camera for transferring video to iMovie?
I totally understand.
Check some things from here, I have 2 and they have been great so far.
Check here, lots of storage and reasonable prices. Also great support, you get to speak to a person
Clean off your on the G5 drive and off you go.
I suggest buying a second drive and setting it up for a back up, Time Machine or Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper (both "bootable" back up) All searchable on the web.
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/elite+pro
You can talk to a person for REAL advice, Phone: 800.275.4576 Ask about exporting to your G5 and and exporting to your existing OSX, you may only need a small inexpensive drive for this.
Quick delivery and willing to help.
Hope this makes you back up and running :-)
Do get a back up drive, as it is not ""whether my drive will fail, as much as "when my drive fails"
All the best -
what do i need to connect my mac book pro to the tv with the mac's thunderbolt port to hdmi? I have the newest macbook pro. I'm wanting to have the best picture I can get from my 1080p tv. thanks
Thanks Community! I solved the problem. In fact it was not a problem but lack of understanding. These guys at Apple are way ahead in thir thinking. I will try to explain as short as I can.
In Lion, ihe Prefferences/Display show only two choices: 6-7 steps of resolution and some color tab. No two screens, no two display to overlap, nothing for us to do. "That was the problem"! Everything is automatic.
When I connected the HDMI cable to the Miniport into a T-bolt slot, the TV screen showed the "spiral galaxy" how Zyriab is calling it. In fact he gave me the best clue. That shows the connection is good. But where is the Mac Book image?
You have to drag it to the right out of the Mac Book display area, and "voila!" it will continue on the TV screen. The same with the mouse pointer, push it out ofthe Mac Book display area and you see it on the TV sreen. Good image, you can keep the max resolution, etc. The sound is still on the Book's speakers. I have to figure that out.
Thank everybody, especialy Zyriab, ne was the closest.
High regards to everybody -
Do I need to buy a Mac pro with an iMac?
I'm planning on buying a 27-inch iMac, do I need to buy a Mac Pro (single processor) or any other hardware etc with the iMac PC?
Go for the higher end 27 inch screen base model.
Get one with the fusion drive.
Add third party RAM after the purchase.
If you need an optical drive, the new iMacs no longer have an internal CD/DVD optical drive.
You will need to budget and purchase an external optical drive.
Also, budget for an external hard drive for backups and storage.
Most important, budget for, purchase and register for extended 2-years of AppleCare warranty before your first year of ownership has ended.
The cost of the extra 2 years is only a fraction of an actual out of pocket repair cost.
Later aluminum iMacs, in general, have a 3-5 year varied liability history and it's better to have 3 years of warranty coverage than get caught with an expensive repair sometime after the first free year of AppleCare.
Good Luck! -
IPod is formatted for windows but i need it formatted for mac
i just got my iPod a couple days ago used from best buy and hooked it up from my mac not aware that it was formatted for windows. when i try to restore my iPod it just freezes up my computer. do i really need it formatted for mac in order to get good performance?
Right. If you restored it in Windows the iPod will still be formatted for Windows.
Now see if you can restore it on your mac.
Also, know that Windows-formatted iPods work fine in Mac OS X. The only "problem" is that you cannot update the iPod's software on your mac if another software version is released. You would have to do that through Windows.
If you plan on using your iPod with both Operating Systems, you may want to keep it formatted for Windows.
btabz -
we are a creative design studio, we need to use apple mac pro server , so we can make more than a different user to use at the same time doing different activities, on different screens, is it possible?what is the max. no. of users that can work efficient.
Appreciate your support and if possible , how to do this?If you want to work with Mac OS X, you need one computer per simultaneous user.
What you are describing, " Multiple simultaneous logins to a single computer" is not avialable on a regular Mac of any description, unless you decide to use Unix tools instead of Mac OS X.
Server will happily store files for many, many users and provide them to multiple (up to hundreds) of computers at "near hard Drive" speeds over Gigabit Ethernet. It can make the File Sharing part easy. -
My MacBook was stolen and I need to know the MAC address
An emergency question to Apple support. My MacBook was stolen and I need to know the MAC address of its network card. I have a receipt with the serial number of my MacBook. Can you assist?
My serial: W8***66D
Thank you
p.s Any ideas how I can find it?Report the theft to your local authorities.
Apple has no means of tracking thefts, as thieves themselves may claim the machine is theres just by looking up the information on the computer, and unless you registered the machine, it is really their word against yours, unless you also have receipt or other information that they can track to your receipt against your serial number.
Your homeowners insurance may be able to recoup the cost.
In the future, consider getting Lapcop, or Lojack for notebooks.
Good luck! -
Do I need a more recent mac mini to use my iphone 4 with. Im unable to download snow leopard because my mac mini is older. Do I need to get a new mac or is there something else i can do
Get Leopard.
System Requirements
Apple ID (required for some features)
Internet access6
Syncing with iTunes on a Mac or PC requires:
Mac: OS X v10.5.8 or later
PC: Windows 7; Windows Vista; or Windows XP Home or Professional with Service Pack 3 or later
iTunes 10.5 or later (free download fromwww.itunes.com/download)
http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html -
When I am surfing the web other websites pop up saying I need to clean my mac out or I am a winner of something. I just got my Mac so I'm not sure how this happened.
You may have installed the "VSearch" trojan, perhaps under a different name. Remove it as follows.
Malware is constantly changing to get around the defenses against it. The instructions in this comment are valid as of now, as far as I know. They won't necessarily be valid in the future. Anyone finding this comment a few days or more after it was posted should look for more recent discussions or start a new one.
Back up all data before proceeding.
Step 1
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/LaunchAgents/com.vsearch.agent.plist
Right-click or control-click the line and select
Services ▹ Reveal in Finder (or just Reveal)
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item named "com.vsearch.agent.plist" selected. Drag the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator login password.
Repeat with each of these lines:
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.daemon.plist
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.helper.plist
/Library/LaunchDaemons/Jack.plist
Restart the computer and empty the Trash. Then delete the following items in the same way:
/Library/Application Support/VSearch
/Library/PrivilegedHelperTools/Jack
/System/Library/Frameworks/VSearch.framework
~/Library/Internet Plug-Ins/ConduitNPAPIPlugin.plugin
Some of these items may be absent, in which case you'll get a message that the file can't be found. Skip that item and go on to the next one. Even if you find none of the items listed in this step, go on to Step 2.
Step 2
From the Safari menu bar, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Extensions
Uninstall any extensions you don't know you need, including any that have the word "Spigot," "Trovi," or "Conduit" in the description. If in doubt, uninstall all extensions. Do the equivalent for the Firefox and Chrome browsers, if you use either of those.
Reset the home page and default search engine in all the browsers, if it was changed.
This trojan is distributed on illegal websites that traffic in pirated content. If you, or anyone else who uses the computer, visit such sites and follow prompts to install software, you can expect much worse to happen in the future.
You may be wondering why you didn't get a warning from Gatekeeper about installing software from an unknown developer, as you should have. The reason is that this Internet criminal has a codesigning certificate issued by Apple, which causes Gatekeeper to give the installer a pass. Apple could revoke the certificate, but as of this writing, has not done so, even though it's aware of the problem. This failure of oversight has compromised both Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. You can't rely on Gatekeeper alone to protect you from harmful software.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
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