HT1557 OS X 10.5.8 (which is an OS X version also no longer being updated by Apple). Is this true? if yes, why is that?

I have Mac OS X 10.5.8 instslled on my my iMac and I've got this message using chrome...
Chrome no longer supports Mac OS X 10.5
Google Chrome on Mac OS X 10.5 (Leopard) will stop receiving any updates following Chrome 21. This includes new features, security fixes and stability updates. If you’re not sure what OS version you’re on, go to the Apple icon on the top left corner and click About This Mac to find out. If you already have Chrome installed, you can still use Chrome, but it will no longer be auto-updated. In addition, you’ll be unable to install Chrome on any Mac still running 10.5 (which is an OS X version also no longer being updated by Apple). While we understand this is an inconvenience, we are making this change to ensure we can continue to deliver a safe, secure, and stable Chrome for the most Mac users possible.

My brother finally realized his 2006 iMac was no longer supported and that security updates are more important than ever. There was one patch to help with the recent flash-based <?> malware for those systems running 10.5.8
Lion though allows you, if you buy Parallels 7 and have Snow Leopard (there is a $69 flash memory OS with both from Apple) you can run 10.6.8 as a guest OS VM under Lion - if you have the resources to do so to run "reasonably" well.
Seeing how the iMac has not been updated for many many months and due for a refresh, and there is Mountain Lion on the near horizon -
In the meantime, the latest Chrome did include a lot of security patches (scares me that we think we are safe and secure and they are open about it, but not sure if my trust is warranted). FF 13.x still supporting you?
Is your Mac eligible for 10.8? then of course maybe time to get ready -Lion dropped Rosetta and therefore support for older PowerPC code base. So you might have some housecleaning and updates that are needed.
http://roaringapps.com/
And to find other iMac users... you might want to go here: (and maybe we can get this moved)
https://discussions.apple.com/community/desktop_computers/imac_intel

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My I-Pod Touch contains an audible book, which I can not remove. It does not appear in I-Tunes, and this takes up so much memory that I can't sync my i-Pod.

My I-Pod Touch contains an audible book, which I can not remove. It does not appear in I-Tunes when I try to sync, and this audio book takes up so much memory that I can't sync my i-Pod.
How can I remove this from my i-pod?
Thanks

Did you already make sure that Apple Mobile Device Service is installed and active on your computer?
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1567
More troubleshooting about your device not recognized in Windows can be found here: http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1495

I want my music back on my iPhone which was deleted after I signed up for iTunes match. Was never told this would happen--it was said that one COULD delete the music, not that apple would. I use it in my car.

How do I get my music back on my iPhone 5s after signing up for match? No one said it would deleted from my ios device. That was an option for space. I have the large iphone and I use it in my car.

Blue
It sounds like you restored from an old back-up. Did you back-up just before your software update? It will use your last one and if your last back-up was a ywear old then it will use that one.
In general, if you are getting these messages on your iPhones select logout (when you get that Apple Id request) and then log back in with your newer ID.
Sorry for your losses.
Cheers

I am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier

i am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier photo please help me to recover my photos

Well I'll guess you're using iPhoto 11:
Option 1
Back Up and try rebuild the library: hold down the command and option (or alt) keys while launching iPhoto. Use the resulting dialogue to rebuild. Choose to Repair Database. If that doesn't help, then try again, this time using Rebuild Database.
If that fails:
Option 2
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
Regards
TD

I have a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008) and am currently running Snow Leopard 10.6.8. I would like to know which is the most stable upgrade for my model. I have read some reviews of Maverick and Yosemite making the older macs slower. Is this true?

I have a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008), Intel Core 2 Duo 2.53 GHz, 4GB Memory. and am currently running Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
I would like to know which is the most stable upgrade for my model? Mountain Lion, Mavericks or Yosemite?
When I had gone to the apple care centre in India a few months ago to upgrade my OSX to Mountain Lion, I was told that considering my macbook pro's specs, upgrading it would just make it less efficient, and that I should stick to Snow Leopard unless I consider buying a newer mac that would benefit from it. Is this true? I find it a bit hard to believe. Which update is most recommended?
I also notice that my mac has gotten considerably slower. While using chrome, it buffers and struggles with even just 5 tabs open. Could this have something to do with my current ios? As a precaution, I have always been making sure I have enough free space on disk i.e around 70 - 100 free out of 250GB.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Mavericks is no longer available from the App Store, so your choice is Yosemite. One option is to create a new partition (~30- 50 GB), install the new OS, and ‘test drive’ it. If you like/don’t like it it, you can then remove the partition. Do a backup before you do anything. By doing this, if you don’t like it you won't have to go though the revert process.
Check to make sure your applications are compatible.
Application Compatibility
Applications Compatibility (2)

My AppStore id is my apple id n password which is good when purchasing. But when I am updating from update option it ask for a password. The user id I see there is not mine, it's different. How do I change that to my apple Id? Please help me resolve .....

My AppStore id is my apple id n password which is good when purchasing. But when I am updating from update option it ask for a password. The user id I see there is not mine, it's different. How do I change that to my apple Id? Please help me resolve this issue. I have tried resetting it but nothing... Either I'm doing something wrong or....

I believe the issue is with the Apple ID that was used to purchase the App. If you download an App that was purchased under a different Appple ID then all updates will also be linked to the original purchaser's Apple ID. Your Apple ID is the the same ID as your iTunes, iCloud, etc. Some folks use different ID for the different Apple sites. No need for that One ID for all Apple Sites, and if someone else buys an App using their ID and they(you) download that App onto your device and that App requires an update it will ask for the purchasers Apple ID. This happens a lot when folks sell their iPad or give it to someone else and leave some purchased(free) Apps on the iOS device. You cannot change the original ID the App was purchased under. A suggestion would be if someone else has an App that you like but do not want to pay for use their ID or in the future have them gift the App to you.

I spend good money for my iPhone i have the iPhone 5 with the new charger slot which is smaller. I have been through at least 3 charging cords and this is not acceptable to me. i never had a problem with this on my older phone. apple needs to correct tho

I spend good money for my iPhone i have the iPhone 5 with the new charger slot which is smaller. I have been through at least 3 charging cords and this is not acceptable to me. i never had a problem with this on my older phone. apple needs to correct this and reimburse me for this cord.

Charging cords are covered by the iPhone warranty or their own warranty
if puchased separately. Take your iPhone and the cords to your local
Apple store for evaluation and possible replacement.

I want to reset my Macbook Pro back to factory condition because I want to completely eradicate Mackeeper which the previous owner (it is preloved) had downloaded. But I don't want to lose the Microsoft Office that she had installed previously. Help?

I recently bought a pre-loved Macbook which has been sparsely used but I only realised Mackeeper was installed after I got back home. I did a thorough check previously before I bought it but I didnt know what Mackeeper was until I checked it out online. I want to get rid of it completely and the only way to do that is to reset my Macbk to factory mode but by doing so, I will delete Microsoft Office too and the previous owner had lost the key product no and the neccessities to reinstall the software. I have seen others say something about moving it to an external hard drive but I don't have one and I think it would be costly? Please, any experts on this matter come forward and give your best opinions. Thanks!
Additional info -
Software type: OS X 10.9.2

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You — not the previous owner — must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1a. If you don't own another Mac
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the previous owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
1b. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
2. Partition and install OS X
If you see a lock screen when trying to boot from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In thePartition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
3. Other issues
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information.

My performance is very slow when I run graphs. How do I increase the speed at which I can do other things while the data is being updated and displayed on the graphs?

I am doing an an aquisition and displaying the data on graphs. When I run the program it is slow. I think because I have the number of scans to read associated with my scan rate. It takes the number of seconds I want to display on the chart times the scan rate and feeds that into the number of samples to read at a time from the AI read. The problem is that it stalls until the data points are aquired and displayed so I cannot click or change values on the front panel until the updates occur on the graph. What can I do to be able to help this?

On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 11:55:03 -0500 (CDT), HAL wrote:
>My performance is very slow when I run graphs. How do I increase the
>speed at which I can do other things while the data is being updated
>and displayed on the graphs?
>
>I am doing an an aquisition and displaying the data on graphs. When I
>run the program it is slow. I think because I have the number of
>scans to read associated with my scan rate. It takes the number of
>seconds I want to display on the chart times the scan rate and feeds
>that into the number of samples to read at a time from the AI read.
>The problem is that it stalls until the data points are aquired and
>displayed so I cannot click or change values on the front panel until
>the updates occur on the graph. What can I do to be a
ble to help
>this?
It may also be your graphics card. LabVIEW can max the CPU and you
screen may not be refreshing very fast.
--Ray
"There are very few problems that cannot be solved by
orders ending with 'or die.' " -Alistair J.R Young

HT1727 I have 2 Apple ID's one from 2008 which is an email account I no longer use. Can I terminate this account and just use the preferred one?

I have 2 Apple ID's one from at least 5 years ago which I no longer use - last purchase 2008. It is linked to an email account which I no longer use regularly. I established this account on my laptop which I use in the city where I work. The newer account uses an Apple ID which I use to purchase music and relates to an email account I now use at my home PC in another community. Can I somehow terminate the old apple account and ID? Will i lose anything? It is causing problems syncing my iPod. Wisely I have decided to sync only with my home PC from here on. Advice would be appreciated.

Having read some other posts I think I have answered my question. If I was somehow able to terminate my old (unwanted) account and Apple ID I would no longer be able to access the material I bought with that ID- so I'm stuck. I have to learn how to manage that situation.
This is unfortunate for Apple consumers. Life is complicated for families these days and this "rule" although it is in place to prevent cheating and fraud makes things unnnecessarily difficult for me and my family as in my niaevity (sic) with the online world I bumbled into this situation. Not everyone is out to rip off Apple - one of the worlds richest corporations- or the entertainers who market their work through iTunes.I would just like to be able to enjoy the entertainment I pay for where and when I like to on whichever computer is available to me. And I'm not terribly computer literate.
It would have been nice to have had the opportunity to speak just once to a real person in the employ of Apple to explain my situation to them.

Which is the latest BIOS version for Satellite L30-113 (PSL 33)?

Hi everyone,
Could someone please tell me which is the letest BIOS version for my laptop since I have never upgarde it?
Also how do I install it and how do I check what is my bios version now?
Thank you in advance

First of all the BIOS update is not necessary if your notebook functions correctly.
But back to your questions;
On the Toshiba European driver page you will find all available drivers and also the newest available BIOS. At this time it seems to be a 3.10-WIN version
How to find out the BIOS version?
This is very easy you have to access the BIOS and then you could see the BIOS version.
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Ciao

I just rented a film using my apple TV and was then asked to enter a code - which I haven't been asked for in long time. I have forgotten the code. Any quick solutions to the problem?

I just rented a film using my apple TV and was then asked to enter a code - which I haven't been asked for in long time. I have forgotten the code. Any quick solutions to the problem?

Hello anetsa
It sounds like you have restrictions setup on your Apple TV. If you do not know your passcode to unlock it, then you will need to restore your Apple TV. Check out the articles below for more information about Restrictions as well as restoring your Apple TV.
Apple TV: Understanding Restrictions (parental controls)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT200198
Apple TV (2nd and 3rd generation): Restoring your Apple TV
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4367
Regards,
-Norm G.

For some reason the Apple ID window in iTunes and App Store now seems to have a character number constraint. As a result I am unable to enter the final few characters of my Apple ID which I have had for many years. Does anyone know what has caused this?

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You need to ask Apple for assistance with getting back into your old ID. To do this, click here and pick a method; if that page doesn't list one for your country or you're unable to resolve this issue through the Account Security team, fill out and submit this form.
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WiFi printer which can work with one cartridge also at a time (black or color) in a colour printer

All-in-one (OfficeJet or Inkjet) WiFi printer which can work with one cartridge also at a time (black or color) in a colour printer.
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After trying to open a new window, and not seeing the new window come up (and yes, I waited a long time), I decided to close my current window, which had multiple tabs open. Instead of just closing, it pops up the message reminding me that I'm about to close all those tabs. If I say close, and then go into the Task Manager, the Firefox application has disappeared (as expected), but the firefox (and plug-in container) processes are still running. So I have to manually kill the Firefox process to get it to quit. it's as if it thinks there is another Window open (the one I tried to open but never appeared). This happens every single time! I've restarted my laptop, and that does not resolve the problem.
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My iphone 5 which I used on my laptop is no longer recognized in iTunes window, why?

Hi ...thanks for trying to help.
When I plug my ipod in via USB it attempts to find and install the driver software. It always fails and I get the message "Windows encountered a problem installing the driver software for your device. Windows found driver softtware for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it - Apple mobile device USB driver. The I/O operation has been aborted because of either a thread exit or an application request"

HT1557 OS X 10.5.8 (which is an OS X version also no longer being updated by Apple). Is this true? if yes, why is that?

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