I am a bigener photographer need help on editing photos for competitions will cloud help me ?

I am a bigener photographer , need help editing photos for competitions ,will cloud help me?

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Hi, I need a video editing software for my Power Mac G5 system. Hunted all over for one! Can anyone help me and point me in the right direction. Everything I come across is for intel based systems. Many thanks in advance.

Hi, I need a video editing software for my Power Mac G5 system. Hunted all over for one! Can anyone help me and point me in the right direction. Everything I come across is for intel based systems. Many thanks in advance.

I have Final Cut Studio V1 - the PPC/Intel V5/5.1 cross-grade version, which would suit your requirements perfectly. (I have it for sale at present down here).
If you keep looking, you're sure to find a similar second hand copy in your area, without the need to upgrade your graphics card.
I'd go for Final Cut Pro as above over any version of Express. FCP has the full version of LiveType - not the truncated version that was released later on.

Working photographer needs help with hard drives and raid O decisions

Hi new here and also new to Mac well almost new been 20 years since i had a mac. i have a Mac Pro Book and this led to ordering the MacPro since I am a working photographer i made a complete switch in platforms so i have some questions and such but I did place a order on Friday for a 2.66 4gbs of Ram , 2 500 gb hard drive and a 30 in monitor and of course the ATI 1900 XT card so yes i am waiting like many for that card.
I put initial 4gb of ram since running CS2 will at least take a max of 3gb's in the memory cache . i plan on getting 2gbs more from OWC since that seems to be the only 3rd party ram at the moment that is working correctly from reading some of the threads here. Having 6gbs is a no brainer really given the amount of Raw processing that i do along with PS work plus having e-mail and other apps open at the same time. The ram to me is the easy part although expensive . My biggest issue is what to do with the 2 hard drive slots and Raid O or not but I will start a thread on that. But i will have 6gbs total for now and the bottom line is you can never have enough ram still holds true.
Now on to my diliemma with hard drives. I did have a raid O scsi 10k rapture and and 10 k scratch on my Dell box and I am just not sure what to do here. i ordered the 2 500 gb hard drive and I may just put them on the storage side of things than get 2 WD 150gb 10 k Sata drives. Now i could Raid O them for 300 gb and get a performace boast that way or i could keep them seperate and put everything on 1 150 drive and ue the second for scratch only. What i don't know is what Mac perfers and what works better. Not worried so much about failure of drives, thats just life in the big city stuff and you just have backups. What i more worried about is performance versus a waste . seems to me that Raid O may not even be needed with these new Intel boxes with all the horsepower going on. Now the other think I notice is the WD 150gb 10 k drives are 1.5 and not 3.0 so is it really faster than the 7200 3.0 single hard drives. I read barefeats shoot out and it seems just getting the right drives in 7200 and Raid O them maybe the answer.
Okay i am not the biggest geek on the planet but I do know my stuff but this is a area that i look for more knowledge on this. So if i can get some sound advice in this area. i know there are many photographers out there like me pushing hundreds of images that could use the same advice. Now let's leave the money end out , folks sometimes think more with there wallet than what works best not that I am opposed to saving money but after spending over 7 k already on this system it becomes a moot point. LOL
www.guymancusophoto.com

Ok your question is if you should RAID O the two 150GB Raptors or not.
I think it was wise for you to get a couple of them for a boot drive with "Time Machine" coming in the next version of Mac OS X. The second drive would make a excellent bootable backup and eliminating downtime if a boot drive dies on you one morning.
In fact any boot drive cloning software that is Mac Intel ready now would do you good.
Now Barefeats has run some tests, and I can pretty much back up what they say from my own experience.
Mac OS X and apps can be helped only so much by a faster boot drive, and a single 10,000 RPM Raptor is enough, RAID O a pair is overkill.
If you install everything on the boot Raptor and keep your space hogging files (except iTunes) in new folders on another drive, even a 7,200 RPM 500GB, the two drives combined is faster as there is nearly no wait. Both drives can be accessed at the same time. Keeping the boot drive slim keeps the stylus (arm) moving as little as possible to get all the small reads/writes Mac OS X needs.
I RAID O-ed my boot drives because 74GB was the largest they had at the time, so combining them gave me speed and larger storage. I hardly use the speed, it only comes in handy if by rare chance I duplicate a 20GB folder, then I can do it in half the time of a 7,200 RPM drive.
Some of the drawbacks of a RAID O set, especially as a boot drive is that I have to auto-clone the whole set to a external drive regularly (I actually do a couple). Since the data path is separated with a RAID O, any drive failure results in total data loss.
So if you RAID O those 150GB Raptors, your going to have to clone 300GB to a external drive (or another internal) regularly, like once a week. This will take considerable time and you can't use the machine while the cloning process is going on. Sure auto-cloning software like DeJaVu can be used at night/weekends, but why bother cloning more than you have to for no big speed increase?
However if your messing with huge Photoshop files that spill over your CS2 3GB RAM limit (you need to have a "scratch" thats as fast as RAM), duplicating large files and other heavy duty drive work, then a boot RAID O will come in handy. Just remember your initial performance of 185 MB p/s will drop about 20-25% when those drives are 3/4 filled. Still 140 MB p/s is extremely good and a no worry situation.
What is worrysome is anything below 80MB p/s (I'm talking uncached 4K write speeds under X-Bench) with a new boot drive and then as time elaspes that boot drive gets filled up and loses half or more of it's inital speed. 30 MB p/s is really slow. Beachball H&LL.
http://www.barefeats.com/hard33b.html
Do Erase W/Zero in Disk Utility all new drives before laying data on them. Drives get subjected to shock which causes bad sectors on the drive. Driver software uses your data as a guinea pig to test the sectors (which you might not be able to recover the file). Zeroing does this without your data, rewriting the bad sector map so your writes are much improved, OS is more stable. etc.

I need to recover my photoes for a funneral please help

How do I retreave my photoes friend died along with her 4 year old need happy pics for funeral could really use help retreaving them please help

iPad Photo Recovery: How to Recover Deleted Photos
http://www.iskysoft.com/iphone-data-recovery-mac/ipad-photo-recovery.html
How to Restore Lost or Deleted Files from iPad
http://www.iphone-ipad-recovery.com/recover-ipad-mini-files.html
How to Recover Deleted Files from iPad
http://www.kvisoft.com/tutorials/recover-deleted-files-from-ipad.html
iSkysoft Free iPhone Data Recovery
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 Cheers, Tom

Need white background on photos for website, can anyone help?

I dont have and dont know how to use photoshop but
have been told its what I need for this job. I am upgrading my website and have quite a few photos
that need a white background putting around them to make them clean and proffessional. Can anyone help me out? Am willing to pay for time. Typical
example is pic below. Need just the machine and not any of the messy background?

thanks for all the replies, very helpful. I could download a trial but fear even basic things would take an age for me to master.
Very nice graphic Noel Carboni, exactly what im after. Would you consider doing the photos? I have maybe 15 of them max I would like doing.
Re-taking pictures of a lot of them is not an option as they were special build machines and not our usual stuff.

I need to resize some photos for specific size ppi, dimensions and can't find how to do this.

I don't think you can change DPI in iPhoto. You can do it in Preview or an App like Graphic Converter. Here is a screenshot from Preview. Preview is located in your Application Folder

Do I need to backup my photos in iCloud so that I can stream my photos in my macbook?

I'm new in iCloud, and I wan't to access my photos in my macbook air via iCloud, what should I do? Do I need to backup my photos first and will it show in iPhoto?

one can get them to iphoto by syncing with cable when the ios device is set connected
or sync to icloud then it should begin to show up in iphoto if one enable it in iphoto and the ios device

Need help with multiple photographs in canvas- Hard Day's Night - Effect

I'm working on a music video for my son's 6th grade band and have taken a serious of photographs of each of the 4 band members in rapid sequence ala George Harrison in Hard Days Night when he is being photographed by the press and he changes his expression as the camera snaps away.
I have imported the photos {(jpg) 3.9 MB, frame size 3872 X 2592} in to Final Cut Express and have put each sequence of photos for each band member on the timeline on a different track. I then have tried to size each photo in the canvas so that they are equally spaced and even but I am having a difficult time setting them up as they don't seem to fit evenly in the canvas and need to be more square then rectangular to fit so that the photos don't move around and are stable. I have each photo changing on the beat of the music but since the photos them self keep moving - its ruining the effect I'm going for. Any suggestions on how to make this work would be appreciated.
Thanks
Karl

Hello, and welcome to the FCE Forum !
A couple of thoughts -
Have you tried using Piero's QuarterPIP filter? This may make the job easier to manage and may provide more consistency than you are getting by doing manual scaling & positioning of the photos.
You mentioned that the pictures need to be more square than rectangular. Your photos at the size indicated have a 1.49:1 aspect ratio; the 16:9 video frame has an aspect ratio of 1.78:1; the mismatch could be the reason things don't seem to fit exactly. If you are using a 1920x1080 sequence, try experimenting with 4 photos that are cropped & resized to 960x540 before you import them into FCE. (960x540 is 1/4 the size of the 1920x1080 full frame, with the correct x & y dimensions to make them consistent and exactly fill the complete video frame when 1 is placed in each quadrant of the frame.)

I need help with viewing files from the external hard drive on Mac

I own a 2010 mac pro 13' and using OS X 10.9.2(current version). The issue that I am in need of help is with my external hard drive.
I am a photographer so It's safe and convinent to store pictures in my external hard drive.
I have 1TB external hard drive and I've been using for about a year and never dropped it or didn't do any thing to harm the hardware.
Today as always I connected the ext-hard drive to my mac and click on the icon.
All of my pictures and files are gone accept one folder that has program.
So I pulled up the external hard drive's info it says the date is still there, but somehow i can not view them in the finder.
I really need help how to fix this issue!

you have a notebook, there is a different forum.
redundancy for files AND backups, and even cloud services
so a reboot with shift key and verify? Recovery mode
but two or more drives.
a backup, a new data drive, a drive for recovery using Data Rescue III
A drive can fail and usually not if, only when
and is it bus powered or not

Need help understanding profiles and color management

I made the big leap from inexpensive inkjets to:
1 Epson 3800 Standard
2 Spyder3Studio
I have a Mac Pro Quad, Aperture, PS3, etc.
I have a steep learning curve ahead, here's what I've done:
1 Read a lot of books, watched tutorials, etc.
2 Calibrated the monitor
3 Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
What I've found:
1 The sample print produced by Spyder3Print, using the profile I created with color management turned off in the print dialog, looks very good.
2 When I get into Aperture, and apply the .icc profile I created in the proofing profile with onscreen proofing, the onscreen image does not change appreciably compared with the no proof setting. It gets slightly darker
3 When I select File>Print image, select the profile I created, turn off color management and look a the resulting preview image it looks much lighter and washed out than the onscreen image with onscreen proofing turned on.
4 When I print the image, it looks the same as was shown in the print preview...light and washed out, which is much different than what is shown in edit mode.
5 When I open PS3 with onscreen soft-proofing, the onscreen image is light and washed out...just like displayed in PS3 preview. If I re-edit the image to look OK onscreen, and print with the profile and color management turned off, the printed image looks OK.
So, why am I confused?
1 In the back of my simplistic and naive mind, I anticipated that in creating a custom printer profile I would only need to edit a photo once, so it looks good on the calibrated screen, and then a custom printer profile will handle the work to print a good looking photo. Different profiles do different translations for different printers/papers. However, judging by the PS work, it appears I need to re-edit a photo for each printer/paper I encounter...just doesn't seem right.
2 In Aperture, I'm confused by the onscreen proofing does not present the same image as what I see in the print preview. I'm selecting the same .icc profile in both locations.
I tried visiting with Spyder support, but am not able to explain myself well enough to help them understand what I'm doing wrong.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
You have understand that maintaining the colour is done by morphing the colourants, and you have understood that matching the digital graphic display (which is emissive) to the print from the digital graphic printer (which is reflective) presupposes a studio lighting situation that simulates the conditions presupposed in the mathematical illuminant model for media independent matching. Basically, for a display-to-print match you need to calibrate and characterise the display to something like 5000-55000 kelvin. There are all sorts of arguments surrounding this, and you will find your way through them in time, but you now have the gist of the thing.
So far so good, but what of the problem posed by the digital graphic printer? If you are a professional photographer, you are dependent on your printer for contract proofing. Your prints you can pass to clients and to printers, but your display you cannot. So this is critical.
The ICC Specification was published at DRUPA Druck und Papier in Düsseldorf in May 1995 and ColorSync 2 Golden Master is on the WWDC CD for May 1995. Between 1995 and 2000 die reine Lehre said to render your colour patch chart in the raw condition of the colour device.
The problem with this is that in a separation the reflectance of the paper (which is how you get to see the colours of the colourants laid down on top of the paper) and the amount of colourant (solid and combinations of tints) gives you the gamut.
By this argument, you would want to render the colour patch chart with the most colourant, but what if the most colourant produces artifacts? A safer solution is to have primary ink limiting as part of the calibration process prior to rendering of the colour patch chart.
You can see the progression e.g. in the BEST RIP which since 2002 has been owned by EFI Electronics for Imaging. BEST started by allowing access to the raw colour device, with pooling problems and whatnot, but then introduced a primary ink limiting and linearisation.
The next thing you need to know is what colour test chart to send to the colour device, depending on whether the colour device is considered an RGB device or a CMYK device. By convention, if the device is not driven by a PostScript RIP it is considered an RGB device.
The colour patch chart is not tagged, meaning that it is deviceColor and neither CIEBased colour or ICCBased colour. You need to keep your colour patch chart deviceColor or you will have a colour characterisation of a colour managed conversion. Which is not what you want.
If the operating system is colour managed through and through, how do you render a colour test chart without automatically assigning a source ICC profile for the colourant model (Generic RGB Profile for three component, Generic CMYK Profile for four component)?
The convention is that no colour conversion occurs if the source ICC device profile and the destination ICC device profile are identical. So if you are targetting your inkjet in RGB mode, you open an RGB colourant patch chart, set the source ICC profile for the working space to the same as the destination ICC profile for the device, and render as deviceColor.
You then leave the rendered colourant test chart to dry for one hour. If you measure a colourant test chart every ten minutes through the first hour, you may find that the soluble inkjet inks in drying change colour. If you wait, you avoid this cause of error in your characterisation.
As you will mainly want to work with loose photographs, and not with photographs placed in pages, when you produce a contract proof using Absolute Colorimetric rendering from the ICC profile for the printing condition to the ICC profile for your studio printer, here's a tip.
Your eyes, the eyes of your client, and the eyes of the prepress production manager will see the white white of the surrounding unprinted margins of the paper, and will judge the printed area of the paper relative to that.
If, therefore, your untrimmed contract proof and the contract proof from Adobe InDesign or QuarkPress, or a EFI or other proofing RIP, are placed side by side in the viewing box your untrimmed contract proof will work as the visual reference for the media white.
The measured reference for the media white is in the ICC profile for the printing condition, to be precise in the WTPT White Point tag that you can see by doubleclicking the ICC profile in the Apple ColorSync Utility. This is the lightness and tint laid down on proof prints.
You, your client and your chosen printer will get on well if you remember to set up your studio lighting, and trim the blank borders of your proof prints. (Another tip: set your Finder to neutral gray and avoid a clutter of white windows, icons and so forth in the Finder when viewing.)
So far, so good. This leaves the nittygritty of specific ICC profiling packages and specific ICC-enabled applications. As for Aperture, do not apply a gamma correction to your colourant patch chart, or to colour managed printing.
As for Adobe applications, which you say you will be comparing with, you should probably be aware that Adobe InDesign CS3 has problems. When targetting an RGB printing device, the prints are not correctly colour managed, but basically bypass colour management.
There's been a discussion on the Apple ColorSync Users List and on Adobe's fora, see the two threads below.
Hope this helps,
Henrik Holmegaard
technical writer
References:
http://www.adobeforums.com/webx?14@@.59b52c9b/0
http://lists.apple.com/archives/colorsync-users/2007/Nov/msg00143.html

Need help to develop Pythagoras theorem-

Hi i need help to develop proofs 2,3,4
of pythagoras theorems in java as demonstrations
These are applets can anyone help me with it or give me an idea of how to go about developing it -
the site is the following
http://www.uni-koeln.de/ew-fak/Mathe/Projekte/VisuPro/pythagoras/pythagoras.html
then double click on the screen to make it start

Pardon my ASCII art, but I've always liked the following, simple, geometric proof:
     a                   b
---------------------------------------+
|       |                                |
a|   I   |              II                |
|       |                                |
---------------------------------------+
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
b| IV   |              III               |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
|       |                                |
---------------------------------------+It almost goes without saying that I+II+III+IV == (a+b)^2, and II == IV == a*b,
I == a*a and III == b*b, showing that (a+b)^2 == a^2+a*b+a*b+b^2.
I hope the following sketch makes sense, stand back, ASCII art alert again:     a                   b
---------------------------------------+
|               .             VI         |
|     .                 .                |a
| V                               .      |
|                                        +
|                                        |
|   .                                    |
b|                                     . |
|                                        |
|                  IX                    |
| .                                      |
|                                    .   |b
|                                        |
+                                        |
|      .                                 |
a|               .                  . VII |
| VIII                   .              |
---------------------------------------+
                 a                    bThe total area equals (a+b)^2 again and equals the sum of the smaller areas:
(a+b)^2 == V+VI+VII+VIII+IX. Let area IX be c^2 for whatever c may be.
V+VII == VI+VIII == a*b, so a^2+b^2+2*ab= c^2+2*a*b; IOW a^2+b^2 == c^2
Given this fundamental result, the others can easily be derived from this one,
or did I answer a question you didn't ask?
kind regards,
Jos

I need help to find and open a job app that I exported, was able to fill out and sign and saved and now can't open it? What did I do wrong?

I need help to find and open a job app that I exported, was able to fill out and sign and saved and now can't open it? What did I do wrong?

What file format did you export it to?

Need help to open audios attached in a PDF file

Hello
I just need help. I have ordered a reviewer online that has audios and texts in a pdf file. I was told to download the latest adobe reader on my computer. I have done the same thing on my ipad mini. I am not so technical with regards to these things. Therefore I need help. I can access the audios on my computer but not on my ipad.
I want to listen to audios with scripts or texts on them so i can listen to them when i am on the go. I was also informed that these files should work in any device. How come the audios doesnt work on my ipad.
Please help me on what to do.
Thanks

Audio and video are not currently support on Adobe Reader. :-<
You need to buy a PDF reader that supports them. My suggestion is PDF Expert from Readdle ($US 9.99)

Need help to open and look for file by name

Hi,
Im needing help to open a folder and look for a file (.txt) on this directory by his name ... The user ll type the partial name of file , and i need look for this file on the folder , and delete it ....
How can i look for the file by his name ?
Thx =)

Hi ,
Sry ,, let me explain again ... I ll set the name of the files in the follow order ... Name_Serial_date_chanel.sxc ..
The user ll type the serial that he wants delete ...
I already figured out what i need guys .. thx for the help ^^
I used List Directory on advanced IO , to list all .. the Name is the same for all ... then i used Name_ concateneted with Serial(typed)* .. this command serial* ll list all serials equal the typed , in my case , ll exist only one , cuz its a count this serial .Then i pass the path to the delete , and its done !
Thx ^^

I need help, my ipod touch is not recognized by windows as a harddisk

i need help, my ipod touch is not recognized by windows like a memory card or a harddisk.
i would like to transfer the files from pc to my ipod touch without useing itunes.
as i see theres some people here that theires ipod touch are recongnzed as a digitl camra, mine is reconzied as nothing, some help plz.
Message was edited by: B0Om

B0Om wrote:
ok but i still dont understed, only my itnes recongnize my ipod, when i go to " my cumputer, it dosent show up there, not even as a digital camra
Your Touch is working correctly. Currently, without unsupported third party hacks, the Touch has NO disc mode. It will only show up in iTunes.
how do i put programes and games in my ipod touch
Right now, you don't. The SDK is scheduled to be released in Feburary. Then developers will be able to write programs that will be loadable.

I am a bigener photographer need help on editing photos for competitions will cloud help me ?

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