I am preparing to sell my 2007 intel iMac. Erase and Install

Guessing that when i do an erase and install it will go back to the OS that it came with.. Presently running OS 10.9. what disks will i need to get it back to mavericks before i sell it ? want to be  on 10.9.. I can remember from other computers that you cant just go from say 10.5 to 10.9 .. thanks

Amybest222 wrote:
... what disks will i need to get it back to mavericks before i sell it ?
You cannot Sell it with Mavericks Installed... You will need to Restore the Computer to Factory Settings and Install the OS X that it Originally Shipped with.
Apple What to do before selling or giving away your Mac
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5189?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US
More Info Here  >  Prepare a Mac For Sale

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    Normally I would agree, but this iMac is running Tiger 10.4.11, I believe Aperture 3 requires Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
    The reason the iMac is on Tiger is that there was some problem with a couple of applications immediately crashing when they were run, they did not do this until just the other day and then they would always do it, I couldn't find a logical explanation for this and after a few attempts at re-installing bits and bobs I decided to back up and try a clean install of Snow Leopard, this went on OK but none of the Combo updates would install, they all failed as soon as the install started; this could have been due to a bad install from disc but no other discs showed any problems and I have used those discs before without any problems (plus there was no indication of a bad install).  I decided to take Snow Leopard off the machine and go back to it's original Mac OS install DVDs (Tiger).  It is fully updated as far as Tiger and the rest of the software on there goes, it is perfectly usable.
    This iMac is always going to be slow compared to an i5 model, I just do not want to bog it down too much with modern features and processor expectations.  Also, while it is running cleanly I am hesitent to put Snow Leopard back on it in case it runs in to the same problems again.
    Oh, and I ran repair permissions and disk verify several times (including when booted from the install discs) before resorting to re-installing Mac OS.
    The upshot is that I need Aperture that will run on Tiger, which is probably v1 but I don't know about v2 etc.  I am mainly interested to know whether or not v1 is a turkey and one to avoid.

  • Late 2007 Intel iMac getting stuck at boot...sometimes.

    I'll go into as much detail here as I can, but feel free to ask questions. This is:
    Model Identifier: iMac7,1
    Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
    Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz
    Number Of Processors: 1
    Total Number Of Cores: 2
    L2 Cache: 4 MB
    Memory: 4 GB
    Bus Speed: 800 MHz
    Boot ROM Version: IM71.007A.B03
    SMC Version (system): 1.21f4
    I rarely shut this computer off, and for the most part it runs fine, but when I do shut it down or Restart, whether it boots again or not is a gamble. I have backups, so I'm not concerned about losing data, just concerned by the instability. There's no boot camp or strange partitioning. Just a single partition "Macintosh HD" that the system boots from.
    Here are the tests I've run:
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    2) Disk Utility. I've verified the disk and repaired it, occasionally
    I get an error, but it's always been fixable, and the last test I ran
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    times. There are a couple of "Warning: SUID file 'bleh' has been modified and
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    3) Reset the SMC controller, by disconnecting all the cables including power
    and letting it sit for 30 minutes -- several times.
    4) Done the Command-Option-P-R reset several times.
    5) S.M.A.R.T. indicates nothing wrong with the drive.
    When things go bad, there are several ways it happens.
    1) Sometimes I get the grey screen, no apple or wheel. Just sits at the grey
    screen forever.
    2) After a couple of reboots, I'll usually get to the apple logo and wheel, but it
    stays there forever.
    3) After 10 or 20 reboots, I can usually get it to go all the way through
    and start up.
    Sometimes when I can get it to boot from the Install DVD, the physical harddrive is listed in the Disk Utility but not the "Macintosh HD" partition, so I can't check or repair it.
    I have thought that this might be heat related, maybe it works better as it heats up, but this doesn't explain the inability to just restart it when it's been running for a week.
    What does this sound like to you? I have to admit that I'm stumped, and since I don't really have a good grasp on what's going on at each stage of the boot sequence, I can't narrow it down to one thing or another. I guess worst case I'll take it in to the "Geniuses" at the Apple Store, but I'd like to understand exactly what's going on here.
    Any help would be....helpful.

    I've had totally mixed luck with hard drives in the past. I had a drive fail on me after 1 month and another last for the last 10 years. I'm not upset, assuming it doesn't happen again in 2 years.
    Personally, I think the heat inside the iMac makes it a little harder on the drive, which might accelerate it's life. Once it started to go I installed "iMac Fan Control" (just google it) to keep the heat down. No idea if it milked a little more life out of it or not, but I think I'll keep running it.
    Ian

  • My 2007 Intel iMac is waking from sleep on its own during the early morning hours. Not sure why. Is there a way to find out by looking at some sort of log files or something else?

    I'm wondering if someone else is having control of my iMac as it randomly wakes up from sleep while I am sleeping sometime during the night. I've woken up with the light from the monitor brightening my room. Need to find out what is causing it to wake up and stay on. Any suggestions?

    I've had this same issue lately. Here's one thing to check: System Preferences > Energy Saver > Wake for Network Access should be unchecked.
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    Should be an easy theory to test. Turn off AirPort, unplug Ethernet, and let the iMac sit. See if it still happens.

  • The "about:config" move to restore the seach bar didn't work. I'm running OSX 10.9.5 on AOL/Firefox 37.0.1 on a mid 2007 intel iMac

    I changed the "browser.search.show.OneOffButtons" boolean to "False" and restarted Firefox. When it didn't restore the search bar I went back and made sure it was entered as "False" and restarted again - no go.
    I don't know where to go to search - Am I missing something obvious?
    Thanks

    Maybe this isn't supported or otherwise overridden by the Firefox version that you use.
    Download a new copy of the Firefox application from the Mozilla server and save the disk image file to the desktop
    *Firefox 37.0.1: https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/all/
    *Trash the current Firefox application (open the Applications folder in the Finder and drag the Firefox application to the Trash) to do a clean (re)install
    *Install the new version that you have downloaded
    *https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Installing+Firefox+on+Mac
    Your personal data is stored elsewhere in the Firefox profile folder, so you won't lose your bookmarks and other personal data when you uninstall and (re)install or update Firefox.
    *http://kb.mozillazine.org/Profile_folder_-_Firefox

  • I use my intel iMac offline and have forgotten my password. How can I retrieve it? It won,t let me reinstall - adrian

    I am trying to reinstall OS on my offline IMac intel but have forgotten the password and can't retrieve it. How do I reset password?

    This article should help you solve that:
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  • Getting an Intel iMac up and running from G5 software and data

    Towards the end of this year I will be updating from a G5 iSight to whatever mid-model new iMac is available. I will be doing this solely because I want to work extensively with HD video. I have spent an hour or so checking these forums for potential problems and have come up with this scenario. I don't need instructions on how to do things, just an indication on whether this process will work, and if not, where the problems will be.
    *INSTALLING OSX*
    Install the latest OSX with all security updates to an OSX-only partition of the internal drive of the new machine.
    *INSTALLING SOFTWARE*
    1. Install the Adobe CS5 suite, including Photoshop, InDesign, Acrobat and Premiere, though I may choose to use Final Cut instead of Premiere.
    2. Install InDesign CS4. I'm pretty sure it is universal binary, but I'll have to check. I want the CS4 version of InDesign because I have a lot of files in CS4 format and don't want to convert them to InDesign CS5 format – I don't trust the conversion.
    3. Go through every other piece of software I have (including Appleworks, but mostly shareware), and download the latest version, then install that latest version.
    *CONNECTING TO EXTERNAL DRIVES*
    All my data files are stored on four external firewire 400 drives (one original, three backups). To continue to use the same disks I will have to purchase a +Firewire 800 (9 pin) to Firewire 400 (6 pin)+ cable for each drive. To use them I will simply plug in the new cables, boot the new machine, and a minute later four external drives should appear on my desktop.
    *CLONING OSX & SOFTWARE*
    Use +Disk Utility+ to create a disk image of the entire OSX-only partition, and prepare the disk image for restore ( +Images > Scan Image For Restore+ ).
    *RESTORING OSX TO AN EXTERNAL PARTITION*
    Use +Disk Utility+ to restore the disk image to an OSX-only partition on an external drive.
    *BOOTING FROM THE EXTERNAL DRIVE*
    Set the +Startup Disk+ to the new OSX-only external partition, and restart.
    *QUES 1*: Which of the above steps (if any) will be problematic on my new iMac?
    *QUES 2*: If I buy a new Firewire 800 external drive and make it the first in the chain, but all the other disks are still 400, does that faster "first link" actually work faster? Or would it somehow be limited by the other "400" links behind it?
    *QUES 3*: Maybe I only need to buy one new cable. An 800/400 from the iMac to the first disk; and after that use my existing 400/400 cables. Would that work?

    Thanks for the comments, David. I didn't realize you could buy a hub. Which method would result in the fastest overall transfer of data (assuming several of the "400" drives may be being accessed at once): a hub or daisy chain? Or wouldn't there be any difference?
    I partition all my drives to have an OSX-only partition and a data partition. That way I can restore OSX if I ever need to (usually takes about 5-10 minutes from a disk image) and I don't have to concern myself about the data. None of my data is ever stored on the OSX partition. I do this because if I'm in the middle of a project, the last thing I want to be involved with is OSX or software hassles. I don't fool around when I have hassles. If OSX or the software plays up, I just restore from a clean OSX.
    Reminds me of that old joke. Newly weds are in a horse and carriage on their honeymoon. Horse plays up so the farmer gets out and says" "That's once". Horse does it again a bit down the track and gets told: "That's twice". The third time the farmer gets a gun and shoots the horse. Wife is in shock: "Why did you do that?". The husband responds: "That's once."
    Anyway, I treat OSX as the farmer treated his horse – except OSX doesn't get any chances at all. I just put an ailing OSX or software out of its misery and restore. Thus the OSX-only partition.

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