I am trying to delete duplicate photos from events in i=-photo but it deletes the photos entirely from all events including the one I want to keep. How do I keep the original and delete the duplicates?
I am trying to delete duplicate photos fron my events in i-photo but it deltes the photo entirely from all events. How do I keep them in the original events and delte the duplicates without sending them all to the trash?
Are you referring to Events or Albums? A photo can exist in one Event only. However, it can be in multiple albums, books, etc., which uses pointers to the original photo in the Event. In those cases if you delete the photo from the Event all occurrences of it will be deleted from the library.
OT
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I have about 10 important files in my starred folder in Gmail - accessed using my browser.
using mac mail, the starred folder only contains mail deems "important" and "flags"
Not the important files I DEEMED as STARRED.
Why doe removing the flag delete it form starred folder in mac mail?
How do I get my starred folder in mac mail to contain those same 10 emails as Gmail website view?
and how do I get mac mail to stop flagging stuff it thinks is important?
(it doesnt know... no one knows. Only I know...heh)
Thanks so muchAnne,
AOL by policy deletes messages in the Inbox (and also the Sent) after 27 days. To save longer, the messages must be moved to the folder named Saved that AOL sets up on the server. There is nothing in Mail to cause this, but AOL's own action.
Is this perhaps what she is having issue with?
Ernie -
I tried to migrate my files from my old G4 book to my new Macbook Air. It did not work properly and I want to restore the Air to its original settings. How do I do this?
You will need to use an external DVD drive to run the disc installer that came you your machine. You can also do it with another Mac using the Remote Install Max OS X app. Finely, if you have access to another computer, you could burn the install image on a USB thumb drive, boot from that, erase the drive and run the installer.
17" 2.2GHz i7 Quad-Core MacBook Pro 8G RAM 750G + 120G OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Boot HD -
I have an old ipod (it's the very thin oblong one in purple, the one before the one that does video) and want to know how to get everything off it and into my iTunes library. My old computer died and the original library was lost, so don't have any of the content saved anywhere else. I now have an iPhone 5S and listen to music on that, so want to be able to listen to things from the old ipod too.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks very much
JaneApple normally does not get involved in handling lost objects like this. Since a real name is not installed it will be much more difficult.
You can try contacting Apple support at the US number, assume you are US going to BWI from the listing: http://support.apple.com/kb/HE57 and explain the situation and see if they offer any suggestions. -
how to hide the file name (the bizarre number assigned by the camera) when exporting an image version in aperture from an album. Pl understand I want to keep the file name in the project library version.
Within Aperture you have Images, which are constructed on-the-fly from two files (the Master and the Version). You get an image-format file _only_ when you export an Image. You select the file name (usually a scheme) when you create an image-format file (that is, when you export). Look under "Aperture→Presets→File Naming" for built-in Presets. You can, of course, create your own or customize any provided.
The Preset is applied to only the file newly created by your "export" command. It is not applied to the Image in Aperture (unless you rename your Versions or your Masters). -
I've used iMessage for abit now and latly my step dad has got an ipad that is now joint to the same computer and on his ipad is my number and the email for imessage and i want to no how to get it of fully and not just untick it?
Hi barryfromwarrington,
Welcome to the Support Communities! There are two things I can think of to keep your Stepdad's information separate from yours on the computer and the iPad. On the computer, he should have his own administrative account, and on the iPad he needs his own Apple ID for iTunes and iCloud services. Here is some basic information to get started. I don't know if you have a Mac or Windows computer, so I'll include info for both.)
OS X Yosemite: Set up users on your Mac
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18891
OS X Yosemite: Set up users on your Mac
If your Mac has multiple users, you should set up an account for each person so he or she can personalize settings and options without affecting other users.
Add a user
Choose Apple menu > System Preferences, then click Users & Groups.
Click the lock icon to unlock it, then enter an administrator name and password.
Click Add below the list of users.
Click the New Account pop-up menu, then choose a type of user.
administrator: An administrator can add and manage other users, install apps, and change settings.
Enter a full name for the new user. An account name is generated automatically. To use a different account name, enter it now—you can’t change it later.
Enter a password for the user, then enter it again to verify. Using a password hint is recommended to help the user remember his or her password.
Click Create User.
For an administrator, select “Allow user to administer this computer.”
Last Modified: Nov 18, 2014
iTunes for Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8: Fix unexpected quits or launch issues - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203206
Follow the steps below to create a new user account in Windows Vista or Windows 7:
Choose Start > Control Panel.
Open "Add or remove user accounts." (If you're using the Classic view in Windows Vista, open "User Accounts," and then open "Manage another account.")
Select "Create a new account" and follow the instructions to set up the account.
Once you create the new account, choose Start > Log Off.
Log in to the new user account.
Open iTunes and see if the issue you're experiencing persists in this new user account.
Frequently asked questions about Apple ID - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204161
iCloud: Set up iCloud
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2609
Cheers,
- Judy -
After upgrading my iphone 4 to io6 i started loosing the historical sms messages from some senders including new ones received as soon as I open the message app. I am not happy with io6. please advise how i could downgrade to io5.1.1.
I have read a number of other threads regarding the loss of Messages, however, I am not aware of the reason it is happening. Check on the right side of this message under more like this and see if you can find an answer.
As to your question about downgrading software, there is no Apple supported method for downgrading software. -
I want to keep my albums and events as I move to my new computer?
I want to keep my albums and events from iphoto when I move to my new computer. I moving from iphoto version 8.1 to 11. From Old mac to new imac. And from Lion to Maverick. Thank you
Do you have any photos in it? If so then rename it before copying the old library to the Pictures folder. If you want to merge the newer library into the older one (assuming the newer one has fewer photos in it) use the paid version of iPhoto Library Manager to do the merging.
If the new library is empty then you can delete it. -
I just want to keep CSx updated and continue to use it like I have been.
I'm an individual.. One computer!, no team or bank of computers... Just me..
I don't need a cloud! I don't want a cloud!
I just want to keep CSx updated. and continue to use it like I have been.
Cost me about $600 every other year to keep this updated.
I can afford $600/every other year.
What do I need to do to keep using The Design Premium CSx ??Short answer: You are [or eventually will be] outdated and out of luck.
I've been a master collection user since it's been availaboe, but I've been struggling with this and other questions, and have come to the conclusion that I need to be proactive in looking for alternatives, so when the day comes that CS6 stops working on new hardware, I'll have options.
My biggest concern is that with the current CC model, if a user decides to stop, or can't afford, their subscription fee, thirty days later they loose access to ALL THEIR CREATIVE WORK-- without monthly activation, all the CC software STOPS WORKING!
Moreover, after everyone is on the CC hook, what is to stop Adobe from charging $100 per month, or $300.... As a huge company driven by investors and quarterly profits they will charge whatever the market will bear. Many will be held hostage to the subscription fee, no matter how high it goes, because they won't be able to afford to loose access their creative work. So... going forward the market will probably bear a lot more than $49 per month.
Then, if this wasn't enough risk, there is also the dependence on the web and Adobe's IT infrastructure to keep the software "activated". I know it is probably extremely unlikely, but what if they suffer a cyber-attack like many other large and theoretically "secure" companies? What kind of havoc could an attacker wreak with the creative community if suddenly all our software stopped working? You may laugh, but I just read an article today on cNet Security about how Twitter's domain registration was hacked by SEA-- at least for a brief time, SEA was the admin for the Twitter domain records.
Since hearing Adobe's plans, I realised that over the years, with the exception of 3D, I've gravitated to Adobe for all my creative work-- they really do make great software. Even though this represents a huge investment in time and "learning curve", I've started to seriously evaluate alternatives. When the day comes that CS6 is no longer working on new hardware, I hopefully will already be using other brands.
My current thinking: If Apple makes FCP 11 a professional tool again, that would be my first choice for video. If they don't, I've been taking a hard look at Sony Vegas-- or there is always Avid. For compositing, while I really know and love After Effects, I have a copy of Eyeon's Digital Fusion that came free with Lightwave3D that I've never even installed. It is now out of the closet and sitting on my desk, waiting until I have a few minutes to install it to give it a try. For photo editing and vector graphics, I've been looking at the Corel suite-- I haven't used Corel in years, as it always seemed "clunky" compared to Illustrator, but it is a viable alternative, and used and loved by many. Photoshop is an industry standard and I've used it for fifteen years, but I also have both Gimp and Cinepaint on Mac, and use them frequently already. They aren't as capable or as slick as Photoshop, but they do everything I need, so photo editing is covered. As far as web tools, Dreamweaver is nice, but web development can be done with any editor. Flash (and all browser plugin technology) is being supplanted by HTML5 and Javascript, so loosing Flash, going forward, is no great loss. I haven't used it in over a year anyway, but f I really need 2D animation there is always (gasp) Silverlight, and maybe also other tools that I'm currently unaware of. InDesign isn't a concern for me as I almost never do print.
So bottom line for me: If Adobe works out a compromise where the software keeps working even if the subscription lapses, then it would be a different ballgame for me. I'd even be willing to agree to pay two or three year contract before the perpetual license kicked in. However, as it stands, the CC subscription (and potentially vanishing software) represents a level of trust in Adobe that I'm not prepared to give. -
Keep .dng "original" AND adjusted version... or just revert to CR defaults for "original" condition?
As with everyone, my file space requirements are growing rapidly. So, for my workflow, from my camera I'm planning to keep the .jpg and .cr2 (Canon) converted to .dng as my "original" files (then dump the .cr2). I'll then take the .dng into camera raw and create a .psd to work on. That .psd would become the finished product which I'll keep that along w/a .tiff and .jpg version of it. (Total of 5 files)
At first I was going to keep both the original .dng AND the .dng after adjustment in Camera Raw (save w/[DONE] hosted in Bridge) - but in the interest of saving some space I thought I could instead save only the adjusted .dng.
That way I'd have saved my adjustments, but if I ever wanted to "start over," or try another processing round for the file, I could just make a copy of the adjusted .dng and reset everything to 'default' in Camera Raw so that the file would be (I think...) just as it was right after the .cr2 -> .dng conversion.
Is there any major/critical flaw to this plan? I don't want to start to do this and then find out 1,000 images later that I overlooked something I shouldn't have.Steep Ascent wrote:
Is there any major/critical flaw to this plan? I don't want to start to do this and then find out 1,000 images later that I overlooked something I shouldn't have.
Well, you do know that Camera Raw has the ability to store Snapshots, right? So, when you get finished with an image you can save a snapshot so you can keep a record of your image adjustments. You could then also do a snapshot of the Camera Raw "Defaults" will in essence be whatever you have set as the default for your camera...
But no, as long as you are sure you'll _NEVER_ need to use the camera makers raw processing software, saving out a DNG with your snapshots should not produce a technical issue down the road...
With the possible exception of the fact this stuff keeps getting better and better so while your PSD might be state of the art given today's processing, the next version of Camera Raw may be capable of producing better results. You are under no obligation to reprocess your images once you are done with them, but nice to know you can if you want to... -
I used the small key that comes with the air but it doesn't seem to be doing much. Am i supposed to be reinstalling OS X or iLife? I tried OS X and I didn't see much difference except for the return of my system preferences and safari which had initially disappeared, but I'm still missing the App Store and iPhoto. I can't reinstall iLife either.
Try a few things: 1) restart in safe mode (restart holding the shift key) and this will repair the drive (if need be) and trim/delete cache files. Restart normally.
2) if you use iPhoto or Aperture launch the program and then empty the trash folder of the program(s). Launch your Mail program and check out how much is in the Trash and Archive folders. You can delete the really old stuff if there is any.
3) Download omniDiskSweeper (free) to see what's on your drive. Be careful about deleting anything that isn't in your personal drive space and be very careful about deleting anything in the Library folder. -
If I delete a 1.6Gb video, the 'other' increases by 1.6Gb.How do I fix this permanently?
Sounds like you're trying sync different iTunes libraries on different computers. You can only sync with one at any particular time. If you sync with one and try to do so on another the second will want to delete everything form the first. Can't think of any other reason why what you are doing should be a problem.
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I have an iPhone 4S. When I want to update an app, it asks me for a password for an Apple I.D. I no longer use, because I don't know the password for it. The rest of the places where my I.D. Is listed, like in iTunes, has the password I want to use. How can I get the phone to disable the unusable I.D. and substitute the one I have the password for?
beairson wrote:
I have an iPhone 4S. When I want to update an app, it asks me for a password for an Apple I.D. I no longer use, ...
It should be Noted that anything Downloaded with a Particular Apple ID is tied to that Apple ID and Cannot be Merged or Transferred to a Different Apple ID. -
I want to delete the last 2 sheets in a Pages document. I select them in the thumbnails, but can't delete them.
When I choose delete, the 1st five pages are deleted.
What do I do?"2) The last page, p 6, is not in a Section. When I delete p 6 ....pages 2 - 6 are deleted.
Only page 1 remains."
Every page in a Pages word processing document is "in a section". It may be the only page in its section, or it may be in the same section as several other pages. From the behaviour you are describing, I'd suspect your document has two sections: section 1 contains only Page 1, section 2 contains pages 2 to 6.
When you click on the Page 6 icon in the sidebar to the left of the page, you'll see a yellow border around all or part of that page icon.
If the yellow border contains only page 6, then Page 6 is in a section by itself, and pressing delete will delete only page 6.
If the yellow border contains page 6 AND any other pages, then all of the pages within that yellow border are in the same section, and pressing delete (while the icons are selected) will delete all of the pages in that section.
To delete only page 6 (the last page in the document) you need to either:
Delete any text content (including invisible characters, and preferably including any other objects) on that page, following the suggestions by Peter above,
OR
Click immediately after the last text character on Page 5, then go Insert > Section Break to place Page 6 into a section of its own. Then click on the Page 6 icon in the sidebar, check that the yellow border encloses only page 6, and press delete.
Regards,
Barry
PS: It's pretty easy to add extra pages to a document without seeing the invisible characters that cause the page to appear. Not as easy as it was in Appleworks, fortunately where the personal record for one of my Grade 5 students was a 3 page document with over 1000 extra blank pages sent to a printer. AppleWorks read the enter key as a column break (which acts like a page break on a single column document). On a keyboard with a number pad, enter is in a very convenient location to rest a book (or an arm) while thinking about your writing (or chatting with your neighbor). -
I am trying to retrieve folders- they do not appear in Thunderbird, but are on the hard drive.
1. I have used Thunderbird for 5 years or so, using at least 3 mail addresses at a time. I stow useful mails in folders and subfolders for reference. I regularly use Mozbackup.
2. Recently I found that one of the main folders was missing, a search of the hard drive revealed that the.msf folders are there, but I dont know how to restore them.
3. In an effort to retrieve them from a Mozbackup file, i found that email addresses 1,2 and 3 were available.
This was not useful as email addresses 2 and 3 had been replaced by email addresses 4 and 5 3 years ago. (Mozbackup issue)
4. Thus I now have only folders from email 1 and all other from emails 4 and 5 have gone.
Would be grateful for any help
Graham, Cape Town, South Africare: 2.'' Recently I found that one of the main folders was missing, a search of the hard drive revealed that the.msf folders are there, but I dont know how to restore them.''
*.msf files are indexing files. They do not contain emails.
If there is eg:
Inbox file with no extension is an mbox file; this is the file with emails.
Inbox.msf is the indexing file. Does not contain emails.
If you have imap mail account, then you would need to synchronise a subscribed folder to get a copy into your thunderbird Profile. Then it will create an mbox file.
If the Folder was only a subscribed folder, but not synchronised, then there will not be any emails stored in your profile folder.
Subscribed foldres only download headers and when you select to view an email, a copy of the folder or xx emails if that option is selected, is downloaded to a temporary folder which is used to get quicker access to emails. These emails are not stored in your profile, they are stored on the server.
So, please tell us what you use.
re: mail accounts 1, 4 and 5
Are the mail accounts IMAP or Pop?
If mail account 4 and 5 were IMAP mail accounts, then these emails will be stored on the server.
So create new IMAP mail account and you should see all emails on the server.
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