I decided to make my guide

I decided to make my guide available online and thanks to the internet I package my potty training method is a video book and audio course that you can instantly access right from the privacy and
NO2 Extreme Surge comfort of your home this course will save you all the frustration pain and embarrassment you faced by not following a proven plan I had to learn the hard way but you don’t
inside my guide I revealed the six crucial building blocks you need to take your child through if you want to see results in as little as three days building block number one deals with readying your child for potty training even if they currently shown no
interest in being potty trained I'm going to give you sup my alltimebest tips.
http://www.maletestosteronebooster.org/no2-extreme-surge-review/

How are you populating the DDList - is there scripting that parses the incoming XML or is it simply a binding exercise?
Paul

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Hi my name Abukar I had an old apple ID and I had problem with signing it so I decided to make a new apple ID with a new email address, so how can I link with two apple IDs and how can I get back all my previous apps that I purchased before, I cloud stuff

Hi my name Abukar I had an old apple ID and I had problem with signing it so I decided to make a new apple ID with a new email address, so how can I link with two apple IDs and how can I get back all my previous apps that I purchased before, I cloud stuff

It is not possible to do that.
Allan

New itouch user here, We had a wireless connection with a password all set up but we couldn't remember the password meanwhile there are other connections around us but locked. So i decided to make a new one yet it still will not allow to go on safari HELP

new itouch user here, We had a wireless connection with a password all set up but we couldn't remember the password meanwhile there are other connections around us but locked. So i decided to make a new one yet it still will not allow to go on safari after i type in the password PLEASE HELP ive turned on and off etc

My guess is that the security settings on your router and iPod do not match.
For a test, change your router so there is no security. See if you can connect and get to the Internet. If that works, set up the router with security and use the same settings for the iPod.

Possible to make a guide into a mask or selection?

Is this possible? I want to use a guide made from an object, as a cookie cutter for an image that I've placed under it. thanks!

Thanks,
This actually worked to crop the OUTSIDE of my circle, but for some reason the hole in the middle of this circle was never masked
When working with more than one guide/ path, I keep bumping into a few rules.
I think if I can get this, I'll start to understand how to separate my layers better.
"The selection cannot contain objects within different groups unless the entire group is selected."
I get this message even when I select "entire groups"
"Can't make the selection into guides. Guides cannot be created or released within the selected object types."
Well, I wasn't trying to create guide, actually. (lol)
So my real question is, where can I find an advanced tutorial that focuses specifically on layer order/simplification, as opposed to just creating some nice Illustrator image?
I seem to be inadvertently creating a surplus of extra paths and layers and groups that I don't even need, (i can prove it by throwing them out) lol!

Has mail changed so that Apple Mail is deciding to make all new email accounts IMAP?

I am unable to create a POP mail account on my computer or my iPhone today. I have 8 other email pop accounts with the same server. Trying today to replicate the same steps with a ninth email account, APPLE Mail is deciding that it is IMAP, and will NOT let me revise the "account type".
Does anyone know if this is a system-wide change effecting new email accounts within the past few days?

You should be adding the Mail accounts by using System Preferences', Internet Accounts.
Correction, that should be: You should be adding the Mail accounts by using System Preferences', "Mail, Contacts & Calendars."

With version 10.6.8 why is it when I insert a CD it decides to make multiple copies across my desktop, not let me access the CD then spit it out?

We have a Mac Mini server installed in our office, and it has Snow Leopard (Mac OS X version 10.6.8) installed. It also has iTunes (10.6) installed. We updated this machine to these versions last week and have noticed a very strange bug:
Whenever a CD is inserted into the CD drive it seems to read the drive and then attempts to open iTunes. Whilst opening iTunes, an Audio CD folder icon starts shooting across the desktop, appearing in random positions (as a folder icon not the expected CD icon). The process does eventually stop and leaves 3-4 folders on the desktop but none of these are accessible.
After the process has finished, by going to the finder and looking at the available drives, there are about 10-15 Audio CD folders that have suddenly appeared on the left hand side which are all greyed out and Audio CD icon which is also greyed out. The drives are entirely inaccessible and cannot be used.
Oddly, if you disable the preference to open the CD using iTunes this problem goes away, similarly if you unplug the network cable (we are on a Windows domain) the problem also disappears. It only affects Audio CDs - data CDs are fine.
This problem also was not occurring before we upgraded to version 10.6.8 and 10.6. Anyone have any ideas? We are all a bit baffled here!

Bstarling wrote:
I am unable to write down because the log is moving too quickly.
Well, you don't have to write down anything. Just click on the message and copy it. Then paste it here, or in a text editor (eg, TextEdit). And you can enter a string like "Audio CD" (w/o the quote marks) in the filter and see only messages containing it.
mds[71]: (Error) Server: Failed to register path "/Volumes/Audio CD"
That's the metadata server, used by Spotlight. AFAIK, Spotlight does not index audio CDs, so what is this about? I don't know. Maybe it's the cause of what you observe; or maybe it's another symptom. Thinking again of the network issue… have you maybe installed some third-party software related to both Spotlight and the network (Searchlight perhaps)?

FCP 7 Decides to Make My Life Worse

I am running FCP 7 on my MacBook. Since my internal hard drive lacks the room necessary for movie editing, I use an external hard drive, which is the only drive set to be used with FCP in the system settings. It has about 55 GB free, yet whenever I try to render, I receive an error:
"Insufficient disk space..."
I've researched solutions, and one that I've found is to delete the FCP preferences in the Library, and reboot. This works, for a short while, and then the message comes right back.
Does anyone know a permanent, or long term solution for this problem?

>I use an external hard drive, which is the only drive set to be used with FCP in the system settings. It has about 55 GB free
55gb of free space is good if you have a 250gb, 320gb or maybe even a 400gb hard drive. If it's larger than that, you don't have enough free space. But more important is the amount of free space on your boot drive. The boot drive free space is used for temp and swap files; when there's not enough space, the system can perform poorly and do strange things.
Bottom line, always keep about 15% to 20% free space on all drives.
-DH

*ALL IPOD 5G OWNERS* GUIDE FOR VIDEOS

Hello all you Ipod 5g (video) owners. like you, I was extremely exited by the coming out of this Ipod and bought it the first week or even day that it came out in stores. most likely, you had no idea how to get your videos and was extremely frustrated when you got that error from itunes saying "this file cannot be put on to your Ipod because it cannot be played on it" well I have been doing a week of research on forums google and apple.com and have decided to make this guide so all you new 5g Ipod owners will not have to go through the frustration like I did.
*This Method worked great for me and I hope it works great for you as well
First- you need quicktime pro there is no other solution from this that I have found so far, it will be well worth it after you get your first video or even your hundredth on the ipod. it is only 30 dollars too and as well as being able to convert and export your videos to Ipod format it plays your videos great and in full screen with great quality.
-Now you might have already done this and have spent about a day exporting the video to Ipod format finding that after about 15 hours of converting you get a video... with out audio!! that was one of the things that really got me mad. I'm guessing the file you tried to convert was mpg or mpeg 2? well I have a solution for that too! there is a program called virtual-dub http://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/virtualdub/VirtualDub-1.6.11.zip?use_mirror=c ogent it is freeware and works great. what it does is convert your files to avi with the audio and video, when at avi format, you will be able to export them in quicktime pro to an Ipod format with the audio and video in it. WARNING you will need a MASSIVE HARD DRIVE for this! make sure you have from 2-20gb of space depending on the hard drive, or better yet, have the avi saved to your Ipod hard drive! well.. after you have converted your video to avi format open it in quicktime pro, click on file>Export>save as an mpeg4 file (MUCH FASTER!!)>go to options> click on audio>make the audio settings as pass through as it will sound much better>go to video and change the image size 320 by 240>click ok. it should then start to export the file and take about 30 minutes due to exporting as a mpeg4 file is just much faster than exporting it specifically as the Ipod setting. remember to delete the avi file after you successfully get it exported as an mpeg4 file if you don't want your hard drive to become extremely full. then simply add your file to itunes and drag it to the Ipod video and enjoy! tip if you have alot of files I recommend making some folders like *converted to avi* and *ready to unload to Ipod* it made things alot easier for me.
please post comments criticizing and subjecting things to add to my guide

I finally got it to work! I've tried EVERYTHING. Finally I was able to rip one of my DVDs onto my computer and get it to work on my iPod, following the instructions here:
http://www.dapreview.net/content.php?article.234
EXCEPT, once I got the AVI file, I just used Videora to convert it, using these instructions for the settings: http://www.pspvideo9.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2232&sid=8265c7c6225de6ffe4c4ac6 5afe25ea2
The sound and everything worked!
So I would suggest Videora for converting AVI files, just follow those instructions. For the DVD ripping I used DVD Decrypter, which I think uses VirtualDub as a part of the software. (DVD Decrypter: http://www.afterdawn.com/software/videosoftware/dvd_rippers/dvddecrypter.cfm )
Be careful when choosing the dimensions for your video though! I ripped a widescreen DVD and it looks very weird converted into 320x240 because the original was 560x240. I'm gonna try to make it more proportional.

THE GUIDE FOR PUTING VIDEOS ON YOUR IPOD!

Hello all you Ipod 5g (video) owners. like you, I was extremely exited by the coming out of this Ipod and bought it the first week or even day that it came out in stores. most likely, you had no idea how to get your videos and was extremely frustrated when you got that error from itunes saying "this file cannot be put on to your Ipod because it cannot be played on it" well I have been doing a week of research on forums google and apple.com and have decided to make this guide so all you new 5g Ipod owners will not have to go through the frustration like I did.
This Method worked great for me and I hope it works great for you as well
First- you need quicktime pro there is no other solution from this that I have found so far, it will be well worth it after you get your first video or even your hundredth on the ipod. it is only 30 dollars too and as well as being able to convert and export your videos to Ipod format it plays your videos great and in full screen with great quality.
-Now you might have already done this and have spent about a day exporting the video to Ipod format finding that after about 15 hours of converting you get a video... with out audio!! that was one of the things that really got me mad. I'm guessing the file you tried to convert was mpg or mpeg 2? well I have a solution for that too! there is a program called virtual-dub http://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/virtualdub/VirtualDub-1.6.11.zip?use_mirror=c ogent it is freeware and works great. what it does is convert your files to avi with the audio and video, when at avi format, you will be able to export them in quicktime pro to an Ipod format with the audio and video in it. WARNING you will need a MASSIVE HARD DRIVE for this! make sure you have from 2-20gb of space depending on the hard drive, or better yet, have the avi saved to your Ipod hard drive! well.. after you have converted your video to avi format open it in quicktime pro, click on file>Export>save as an mpeg4 file (MUCH FASTER!!)>go to options> click on audio>make the audio settings as pass through as it will sound much better>go to video and change the image size 320 by 240>click ok. it should then start to export the file and take about 30 minutes due to exporting as a mpeg4 file is just much faster than exporting it specifically as the Ipod setting. remember to delete the avi file after you successfully get it exported as an mpeg4 file if you don't want your hard drive to become extremely full. then simply add your file to itunes and drag it to the Ipod video and enjoy! tip if you have alot of files I recommend making some folders like *converted to avi* and *ready to unload to Ipod* it made things alot easier for me.
please post comments criticizing and subjecting things to add to my guide

You see Daniel. I Told you there would be more interest over in the iPod section.
Unfortunatly, the app only works on Mac OS X .
*nathan

[GUIDE] A1 and A1107 Unbrick fix/full factory restore

Updated Sept 6, 2012"
This post is for discussion of the Knowledgebase article on restoring the A1/A1107 to their factory states. If you have questions about the process of following this guide, please post them here and someone will take a look and try to help out.
Please do not post feedback on the ICS ROM here, or problems you're having with the ICS ROM, as it is off-topic. If you wish to discuss these issues, please check the other forum threads, or start a new thread if your problem has not been discussed before."
- posted on behalf of gmarkall
Thanks everyone!

Hi gmarkall
I have been teacher for forty years and I am ashamed I never did (being paid) the half you are doing for free for people you dont know leaving anywhere in the world.
The thing I like the much in your post is "I decided to make this guide available early, so that you may familiarise yourself and prepare for when the links are available."
That's great because if the download has been immediately available everybody , myself first, so tired of a bricked device, would have tried without even read the entire post and then would have cried because it doesn't work.
Regardless the result of the process for my device, I want to thank you and, as I cannot reward you, I'll now spend a bit of my time to try to give solutions on the net to people in my subject (economics).
If the web is a good thing, it's too (mostly) for this
Greetings
jfa from Montpellier, France

A64 Tweaker and Improving Performance

I noticed a little utility called "A64 Tweaker" being mentioned in an increasing number of posts, so I decided to track down a copy and try it out...basically, it's a memory tweaking tool, and it actually is possible to get a decent (though not earth-shattering by any means) performance boost with it. It also lacks any real documentation as far as I can find, so I decided to make a guide type thing to help out users who would otherwise just not bother with it.
Anyways, first things first, you can get a copy of A64 Tweaker here: http://www.akiba-pc.com/download.php?view.40
Now that that's out of the way, I'll walk through all of the important settings, minus Tcl, Tras, Trcd, and Trp, as these are the typical RAM settings that everyone is always referring to when they go "CL2.5-3-3-7", so information on them is widely available, and everyone knows that for these settings, lower always = better. Note that for each setting, I will list the measured cange in my SiSoft Sandra memory bandwidth score over the default setting. If a setting produces a change of < 10 MB/sec, its effects will be listed as "negligible" (though note that it still adds up, and a setting that has a negligible impact on throughput may still have an important impact on memory latency, which is just as important). As for the rest of the settings (I'll do the important things on the left hand side first, then the things on the right hand side...the things at the bottom are HTT settings that I'm not going to muck with):
Tref - I found this setting to have the largest impact on performance out of all the available settings. In a nutshell, this setting controls how your RAM refreshes are timed...basically, RAM can be thought of as a vast series of leaky buckets (except in the case of RAM, the buckets hold electrons and not water), where a bucket filled beyond a certain point registers as a '1' while a bucket with less than that registers as a '0', so in order for a '1' bucket to stay a '1', it must be periodically refilled (i.e. "refreshed"). The way I understand this setting, the frequency (100 MHz, 133 MHz, etc.) controls how often the refreshes happen, while the time parameter (3.9 microsecs, 1.95 microsecs, etc.) controls how long the refresh cycle lasts (i.e. how long new electrons are pumped into the buckets). This is important because while the RAM is being refreshed, other requests must wait. Therefore, intuitively it would seem that what we want are short, infrequent refreshes (the 100 MHz, 1.95 microsec option). Experimentation almost confirms this, as my sweet spot was 133 MHz, 1.95 microsecs...I don't know why I had better performance with this setting, but I did. Benchmark change from default setting of 166 MHz, 3.9 microsecs: + 50 MB/sec
Trfc - This setting offered the next largest improvement...I'm not sure exactly what this setting controls, but it is doubtless similar to the above setting. Again, lower would seem to be better, but although I was stable down to '12' for the setting, the sweet spot here for my RAM was '18'. Selecting '10' caused a spontaneous reboot. Benchmark change from the default setting of 24: +50 MB/sec
Trtw - This setting specifies how long the system must wait after it reads a value before it tries to overwrite the value. This is necessary due to various technical aspects related to the fact that we run superscalar, multiple-issues CPU's that I don't feel like getting into, but basically, smaller numbers are better here. I was stable at '2', selecting '1' resulted in a spontaneou reboot. Benchmark change from default setting of 4: +10 MB/sec
Twr - This specifies how much delay is applied after a write occurs before the new information can be accessed. Again, lower is better. I could run as low as 2, but didn't see a huge change in benchmark scores as a result. It is also not too likely that this setting affects memory latency in an appreciable way. Benchmark change from default setting of 3: negligible
Trrd - This controls the delay between a row address strobe (RAS) and a seccond row address strobe. Basically, think of memory as a two-dimensional grid...to access a location in a grid, you need both a row and column number. The way memory accesses work is that the system first asserts the column that is wants (the column address strobe, or CAS), and then asserts the row that it wants (row address strobe). Because of a number of factors (prefetching, block addressing, the way data gets laid out in memory), the system will often access multiple rows from the same column at once to improve performance (so you get one CAS, followed by several RAS strobes). I was able to run stably with a setting of 1 for this value, although I didn't get an appreciable increase in throughput. It is likely however that this setting has a significant impact on latency. Benchmark change from default setting of 2: negligible
Trc - I'm not completely sure what this setting controls, although I found it had very little impact on my benchmark score regardless of what values I specified. I would assume that lower is better, and I was stable down to 8 (lower than this caused a spontaneous reboot), and I was also stable at the max possible setting. It is possible that this setting has an effect on memory latency even though it doesn't seem to impact throughput. Benchmark change from default setting of 12: negligible
Dynamic Idle Cycle Counter - I'm not sure what this is, and although it sounds like a good thing, I actually post a better score when running with it disabled. No impact on stability either way. Benchmark change from default setting of enabled: +10 MB/sec
Idle Cycle Limit - Again, not sure exactly what this is, but testing showed that both extremely high and extremely low settings degrade performance by about 20 MB/sec. Values in the middle offer the best performance. I settled on 32 clks as my optimal setting, although the difference was fairly minimal over the default setting. This setting had no impact on stability. Benchmark change from default setting of 16 clks: negligible
Read Preamble - As I understand it, this is basically how much of a "grace period" is given to the RAM when a read is asserted before the results are expected. As such, lower values should offer better performance. I was stable down to 3.5 ns, lower than that and I would get freezes/crashes. This did not change my benchmark scores much, though in theory it should have a significant impact on latency. Benchmark change from default setting of 6.0 ns: negligible
Read Write Queue Bypass - Not sure what it does, although there are slight performance increases as the value gets higher. I was stable at 16x, though the change over the 8x default was small. It is possible, though I think unlikely, that this improves latency as well. Benchmark change from default setting of 8x: negligible
Bypass Max - Again not sure what this does, but as with the above setting, higher values perform slightly better. Again I feel that it is possible, though not likely, that this improves latency as well. I was stable at the max of 7x. Benchmark change from the default setting of 4x: negligible
Asynch latency - A complete mystery. Trying to run *any* setting other than default results in a spontaneous reboot for me. No idea how it affects anything, though presumably lower would be better, if you can select lower values without crashing.
...and there you have it. With the tweaks mentioned above, I was able to gain +160 MB/sec on my Sandra score, +50 on my PCMark score, and +400 on my 3dMark 2001 SE score. Like I said, not earth-shattering, but a solid performance boost, and it's free to boot. Settings what I felt had no use in tweaking the RAM for added performance, or which are self-explanatory, have been left out. The above tests were performed on Corsair XMS PC4000 RAM @ 264 MHz, CL2.5-3-4-6 1T.

Quote
Hm...I wonder which one is telling the truth, the BIOS or A64 tweaker.
I've wondered this myself. From my understanding it the next logic step from the WCREDIT programs. I understand how clock gen can misreport frequency because it's probably not measuring frequency itself but rather a mathmatical representation of a few numbers it's gathered and one clk frequency(HTT maybe?), and the non supported dividers messes up the math...but I think the tweaker just extracts hex values strait from the registers and displays in "English", I mean it could be wrong, but seeing how I watch the BIOS on The SLI Plat change the memory timings in the POST screen to values other then SPD when it Auto with agressive timings in disabled, I actually want to side with the A64 tweaker in this case.
Hey anyone know what Tref in A64 relates to in the BIOS. i.e 200 1.95us = what in the BIOS. 1x4028, 1x4000, I'm just making up numbers here but it's different then 200 1.95, last time I searched I didn't find anything. Well I found ALOT but not waht I wanted..

How to make guides on a master page more effective

I have a grid of guides on a master page. They are visible in my working pages, but they don't have that "magnetic" quality that I expect - things don't snap to them. I have layers in the master page and layers in my working pages. Can someone help me sort out what I need to do to make the guides more effective? CS4 on a Mac.

Guide Options "Snap to zone" 1px?
Also, 1 pixel isn't much, maybe you're not seeing the snap. Try 5 pixels

JS CS3 How to make guides

I just gave a try to creating guides in CS3 with this sophisticated snippet:
var lyr = app.activeDocument.layers.add();
var gd = lyr.pathItems.add()
gd.setEntirePath(Array(Array(100,0), Array(100,100)));
gd.guides = true;
and was hit by two surprises:
1. I expected the guide to spread across the entire doc. I thought that despite the coordinates, the engine would extend the line by default, since by mousing in UI, I never managed to make a guide covering only a portion of a doc.
2. Upon creation, the guide was selectable and moveable, showing the anchor points, basically it appeared as any other line, only with strokeColor appropriate for guides. (After a few clicks it kind of morphed into a real guide)
So my guess is that I'm doing something wrong here... Any ideas?
Regards,
Artur

Hi Kasyan,
Ole is probably right that the way to go would be a platform-specific
script.
You can do it using an idle event without it being too much of a
resource drain. You can do something like this (in CS3 using a
persistent engine):
if(yourUniqueNameIdleCounter == undefined){yourUniqueNameIdleCounter=0}
yourUniqueNameIdleCounter++;
if(yourUniqueNameIdleCounter>60){
yourUniqueNameIdleCounter=0;
do your check();
This would increment the number every second or so. Every time the
number hits 60 (about a minute -- give or take, depending on a lot of
factors) your check will be run. For every other idle event, the only
thing done would be incrementing the variable...
Harbs
http://www.in-tools.com

Zero Out All Data and GUID

I'm just formatting a second hard drive for backup purposes. I've decided I want to zero out all data to ensure that the drive maps out bad blocks, and then I'm going to create a GUID partition just in case I decide to make it a boot drive in future.
Three questions:
Why doesn't Disk Utility give you the option of Zero Out All Data and GUID partition as a 'one stop shop'?
Is there any disadvantage to having a GUID partition on a backup drive?
Are any remapped bad blocks found during the zeroing process retained after the GUID partition erase?

Zeroing and GUID don't always go together. AIUI, GUID is only compulsory for a boot partition for Intel Macs; and it is recommended for volumes used by Time Machine. Otherwise, Apple Partition Map will usually be required since it can be read by both Intel and PowerPC Macs.
The disadvantage to having a GUID partition is that it won't be readable by PowerPC Macs.
Simon

How to add a guide?

Hello,
I am working on a trifold brochure. I couldn't find a template, then decided to make a new one. But the problem is I can't divide the document into pieces by guides. I watched some tutorials (videos) for other softwares, but the methods doesn't work. Can you describe how to add a guide to a document? Thanks in advance.

Guides are on the tool panel (3rd icon from below - where I gues your default tool is warp tool), point on arrow then select Guide Tool. Next, point on the ruler then drag&drop in place
Have Fun!

I decided to make my guide

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