I have a 16GB ipad and it says only 13GBs have been used up but it also says only 55MB are available?

I don't understand where the rest of my space has gone.

On a 16 GB device, you will only have 13 - 14 GB available for use. It sounds like you have your available space filled.

Similar Messages

I have been using Icloud but want to stop. I connected to itunes but it wants me to set up as a new phone.

I have been using icloud to back up my Iphone 5, but it hasn't backed up in a while because the backup is too big. I want to start syncing to itunes instead but when I connect to itunes it wants me to use a backup that is over a year old or set up as a new phone. If I set up as a new phone will I lose everything that is on my phone now?

Hi denmardel,
Thanks for visiting Apple Support Communities.
You should be able to back up your iPhone to iTunes using these steps, without syncing or setting it up as new:
iOS: Back up and restore your iOS device with iCloud or iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766
To back up the content on your iOS device, follow these steps:
Make sure your computer has the latest version of iTunes.
Connect your iOS device to your computer.
Choose File > Devices > Back up.
To verify that the backup finished successfully, open iTunes Preferences and select the Devices tab. You'll see the name of the device along with the date and time iTunes created the backup.
Best Regards,
Jeremy

Just purchased Nikon D610. tried to import 3 images and got this message: The files are not recognized by the raw format support in Lightroom. How do I fix this frustrating problem. Have been using Lightroom for years also Nikon products without any prior

How do I import images. Have a message that says: The files are not recognized by the raw format suppot in Lightroom. Am using a Mac version 10.9.4. the import is from a new Nikon D610. Am using LR 4.4 Please help Adobe is useless as a support.

Each camera must be supported explicity and your LR version is years older than your camera.
According to Adobe's Camera-support page, you need at least LR 5.3 to work with your D610 NEFs in LR:
Camera Raw plug-in | Supported cameras
If you don't want to upgrade to LR 5, or can't due to your OS being too old, then it might work to use the latest DNG Converter and create DNGs from your NEFs, which should open in LR 4.x. You can find the DNG Converter here: http://www.adobe.com/downloads/updates

Hi i have been using pages but i recently opened maybe 7 individual pages and now no text appears. when i open a saved document in pages, it says the no of words it has but there is no visible text

i am unable to view text on my pages documents. even when i open saved documents it states how many words are there but no text is visible. this all happened after i pressed the pages icon 7 times in a row.
also now whaen i open pages several flip acreoss the screenalthough i previously closed them all

Retina display?
Jerry

So I have snapchat and i have been using it but it doesnt send me notifications...how do i fix that?

I have snapcat but when I recieve one i dont get a notification....how do i fix that so i get noticfications when i recieve one?

You may be able to restore the iPod to operation by:
- A reset. Nothing is lost
Reset iPod touch: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Restore from backup
- Restore to factory settings/new iPod
Otherwise you need service. Likely the screen needs to be replaced. To do it yourself see:
iPod Touch Repair – iFixit
Apple will exchange it for this price.
Apple - Support - iPod - Repair pricing
There are also third-party places like:
iPhone Repair, Service & Parts: iPod Touch, iPad, MacBook Pro Screens

I Have been using FF but now it won't open.

I can no longer open Firefox. I have tried the following solutions with no luck:
I tried to uninstall Firefox so I can reinstall FF and I got this message:
"FF must be closed to proceed with the uninstall"
"Please close FF to continue"
I tried to download a new FF install. When I got to the Mozilla setup wizard and chose standard install I got this message:
"FF must be closed to proceed with the installation"
"Please close FF to continue"
I have also gone into task manager and closed the open FF processes and restarted the computer. I still could not open FF.
I have also tried opening the profile folder and deleting the "parent.lock" file, per a previous suggestion I received.
I need help.

Try to boot the computer in Windows Safe mode with network support (press F8 on the boot screen) as a test to see if that helps to uninstall Firefox.
You can also remove the Firefox program folder manually on disk.
*(32 bit Windows) C:\Program Files\Mozilla Firefox\
*(64 bit Windows) C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox\
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Uninstalling_Firefox
See also:
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser_will_not_start_up
A possible cause is security software (firewall,anti-virus) that blocks or restricts Firefox or the plugin-container process without informing you, possibly after detecting changes (update) to the Firefox program.
Remove all rules for Firefox and the plugin-container from the permissions list in the firewall and let your firewall ask again for permission to get full unrestricted access to internet for Firefox and the plugin-container process and the updater process.
See:
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Server+not+found
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Firewalls

I have been using firefox but since Mac update i am receiving this message: your firefox profile cannot be loaded. it may be missing or inaccessible.

Message trying to open firefox; your firefox profile cannot be loaded. it may be missing or inaccessible

Firefox is already running but is not responding
https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Firefox%20is%20already%20running%20but%20is%20not%20responding
Check and tell if its working.

Have been using good ole cannons from 70 h 80's for years.Need to update and understand new technolo

Have been using the cannons for many years mostly scenic areas. Quit using them eight years past.
I am retired and need to update and understand what you have so l can start over.Thanks for your help, Edgar.

Hi Edgar,
While there are occasional Canon tech wizards on here to help out, mostly it's conversations among Canon users.
You are basically wanting to go from film to digital, which can be both easy and very, very complex. Some of the modern DSLRs can be used in a highly automated, almost "point n shoot" manner. Or you can get as involved in using them as you wish, using less of the automation, usually with more consistent and pleasing results... but a much steeper learning curve.
If your Canon are from the 70s and 80s, they are manual focus lenses and cameras with the FD mount. Some of those were fantastic, but simply aren't usable on modern Canon, which use EF mount. So you are most likely starting from scratch.
I'd recommend one of the more entry-level models, perhaps with one or two kit lenses to get started learning to shoot digital. But it sort of depends upon your budget, how much you want to spend. I don't know where you are in the world... I'm in the US so below I'm refering to the current US model designations Canon offers (and international designations are in parens). All these models are "EOS".
The Canon Rebel T3 (1100D) is the most entry level model. If bought in kit, it usually comes with EF 18-55mm lens.
Rebel SL1 (100D) is a very compact camera, in kit usually comes with 18-55mm lens.
Rebel T3i (600D) is a bit larger and adds some features... in kit it's often offered with 18-55mm, or sometimes with 18-135mm, or sometimes in a 2-lens kit with 18-55mm and 55-250mm.
Rebel T5i (700D) is the top of the Rebel series line and mostly adds features related to videography. It can be found in kit with the same options as the T3i.
EOS 60D is a mid-grade model, using a true pentaprism (the Rebel series use a penta-mirror). With higher top shutter speed (1/8000 vs 1/4000 on the Rebels), somewhat different controls (more direct access to things commonly used by more advanced photographers). The 60D is being discontinued right now, but you will still see a lot of them in stores.
All the above have essentially the same "APS-C size" 18MP sensor (except T3/1100D which uses a 15MP sensor). T5i and 60D have a similar, more advanced autofocus system.
EOS 70D is the new model that's replacing the 60D, has a new 20MP sensor, as well as a more sophisticated autofocus system than any of the above.
60D and 70D in kit usually come with 18-135mm lens, but sometimes there are alternatives.
The EOS 7D is the top of the line APS-C size sensor, a fairly pro-oriented camera with less support for new digital shooters, a sophisticated and fast autofocus system. .
Finally there are also and so-called "full frame models EOS 6D, 5D Mark III and 1DX (sensor is 24x36mm, same image size as most 35mm film cameras shoot). The 6D is essentially an entry-level, more compact full frame model. 5D Mark III is a mid-grade model, and the 1DX is an uber expensive pro-oriented, high speed model. You might be tempted by these initially, coming from film cameras. But be aware they not only cost more initially, are a bit more limited in lens choices, plus the lenses for them will generally tend to be larger, heavier and more expensive. The APS-C or "crop sensor" models can use all EF and all EF-S lenses. While the "full frame" models can only use EF lenses. EF-S lenses are specifically designed for crop sensor cameras. EF lenses were designed for film or have been designed for full frame, but are also fully usable on crop cameras. So, crop cameras can essentially use any lens Canon has made since around 1990 and onward.
I'd recommend you start with one of the crop sensor models.... graduate later to one of the full frame models, if you find that necessary. Today's crop sensor cameras are actually quite capable. You can make a pretty large print from them, with little loss of image quality. You'll just have to "re-think" focal lengths, from what you are accustomed to. For example, a 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera is no longer a "standard" lens. It acts more as a short telephoto, like an 80mm would on your film cameras (nice for portraits). If you want a standard lens on a crop sensor camera, you'll want something around 30mm. The 18-55mm kit lenses, for example, cover approx. the same angle of view range as a 28-90mm zoom would on your film cameras.
Now, seeing that you are an experienced SLR user, you probably don't need the automation and newbie support of some of the most entry-level models. But also going from manual focus to autofocus (which, when used right is faster and more accurate than I ever was with manual focus, and I was pretty good!)... I'd suggest starting out with one of the simpler AF systems.
The T5i or 60D might be good choices for you. Go compare in a store, if at all possible.
Just as was true in the days of film, lenses still tend to make more of a difference than the camera they are used upon. In other words, the entry level kit lenses might be a low cost way to get into modern, autofocus, digital cameras... but if you're budget allows you might want to consider some more advanced lenses. In the kit lenses, I would recommend the "STM" (stepper motor autofocus drive) models... they are the latest and greatest. But there are even better, in particular the USM (ultrasonic motor autofocus drive) which are often found in otherwise upgraded lenses. For example, for crop cameras there are the EF-S 10-22mm, EF-S 15-85mm USM, EF-S 17-55/2.8 USM and EF 70-200/4L USM lenses. These are fast and accurate focusing, with top quality optics. Most of these lenses also have or are optionally available with Image Stabilization (IS), which is great and allows handheld shots that were near impossible with your older gear. Highly recommended.
Shop around and don't forget to allow some room in your budget for other necessities. You'll need memory cards (the entry level models and T5i, 60D that I recommended all use "SD/SDHC" memory cards). You also might want a spare camera battery (most entry level models use LP-E8, the 60D uses the larger LP-E6 to get about twice as many shots per charge). There are also accessory battery grips available for most models mentioned, which give secondary controls that are nice when shooting with the camera in portrait orientation, as well as adding a second battery to double the number of shots you can take. Most of the lenses mentioned don't include the lens hood, which I highly recommend buying, too.
All these Canon cameras come with a complete software suite, all you really need to get started cataloging and editing your images on your computer (some other manufacturers sell certain softwares separately). However you still might want to look into some third party softwares. Adobe Elements is an excellent and affordable introduction to Photoshop, which is arguably the "big daddy" of all image editing softwares. There are others... some cheaper, even some free... and you don't really need to rush into adding softwares unless you simply want to. The included Canon software is fine to get started.
I guarantee you will find yourself shooting a lot more digital images, than you ever did with film. For one, after the initial cost of the camera, lenses and basic gear, you will feel like "shooting digital is free!". It's not really (camera and memory wear out eventually, upgrades come along, and digital storage & backup fill up rather quickly). But it's certainly cheaper than shooting film. Last time I shot a lot of film I figured it cost a minimum of 50 to 75 cents per shot (common 35mm film with local, consumer grade processing, 4x6 prints or contact sheets... $15 to $20 per 36 exposure film). Digital reduces that to around 5 cents per shot, on average.
You'll also love high ISO shooting with your new DSLR. Any of the above cameras can be used at ISO 1600 with much better results than any film at that rating. With a little extra work, ISO 3200 and 6400 are quite usable... perhaps even higher! I rarely use lower than ISO 200 now, where with film the bulk of my work was at ISO 50 and 100.
You also will enjoy the immediate feedback you get being able to review your images on the spot, right on the LCD screen on the back of the camera. The histogram, in particular, is very helpful once you learn to use it. Heck, you can even shoot tethered to a computer and see your images full size on a computer monitor immediately, if you wish... Or download them and view them just minutes after pressing the shutter release button!
Get some books about digital photography. In addition to something more general, I also highly recommend getting one of the guide books specific to whatever camera model you choose. That will complement the manual that comes with the camera. If you get an image editing/cataloging software, I'd recommend a book specifically for that, too. Another book I recommend is "The DAM Book - Digital Asset Management for Photographers"... which can be found and bought online. It's very helpful setting up your "workflow", and the sooner you do that, the better (it's the pits having to go back, reorganize and potentially redo thousands or hundreds of thousands of images).
There are also good online tutorials about many aspects of digital photography. For example, I highly recommend the three half-hour videos on YouTube about Canon autofocus systems and how to get the best results with them... beginning with this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAx86nblZ2g This is a few years old now, but still quite relevant... the 50D is discussed at length, but it uses an AF system that's virtually identical to the 60D, for example. It also might help to know some of the features of the more recent, more spphisticated AF systems, which are discussed a bit. There are other videos and online tutorials at the Canon Learning Center, on YouTube, and elsewhere. Some are model specific... such as the AF system of the 7D (which is largely carried over into the 70D now).... and the even more advanced 5D Mark III/1DX AF system.
Other users here and at other forums online can be a big help, too. Don't be afraid to ask questions (we've all been there at one time or another).
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

TS4268 Why have I been charged for iMessage activation now, when I have been using iMessage for more than one year?

I received a message on my iPhone saying that some charges could be applied due to activiation of iMessage. My question is: why have I been charged now, if I had already activated iMessage and I have been using it for more than a year.

We are basically users and can't really help with activation. So unless a staff member can check in, you need to speak to Customer Service.
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/service1.html
Serial number and activation chat
or
800-833-6687
Monday—Friday, 5am—7pm PT

I have a wireless keyboard for my ipad and it says to charge it connect it to my pc. can i charge it by connecting it to my ipad?

I have a wireless keyboard for my ipad and it says to charge it connect it to my pc. can i charge it by connecting it to my ipad?

No. The iPad's port won't put out enough power. You could probably plug your keyboard into your iPad charger and charge it that way, but it won't charge off the iPad.

I want to tether my iphone5 to my ipad and verizon says I have to pay more

I want to tether my iphone5 to my ipad and verizon says I have to pay more. I have the 2g data package with my phone. I was understood that the hot spot feature was not charged for. I would not have upgraded my phone from a basic phone to the smart phone if I had not realized that the data would not be able to be used with the phone and ipad.

Sorry I should have proofed my post. English is terrible

I have 4 apps on my phone and 17 pics and my phone keeps saying storage is almost full.. i have a 16gb phone and it says only 12.1gb are being used, why does it keep saying my storage is full?

i have 4 apps on my phone and 17 pics and my phone keeps saying storage is almost full.. i have a 16gb phone and it says only 12.1gb are being used, why does it keep saying my storage is full?

Can you connect to a wifi source on the device? Enable wifi in settings on the device itself. If you don't have wifi at home, there may be a local hotspot you can use for this.
The reason this happens is carriers don't want people downloading huge files that would slow their network as well as eat up your data plan.

HT1212 i have forgotten the password to my ipad and it says connect to itunes but my computer cant connect to the ipad because of the code and i need it know how to wipe the whole ipad and start from scratch?

i have forgotten the password to my ipad and its says connect to itunes but i cant connect it to my computer because of the code on the ipad so i need to know how to wioe the whole ipad and start again like a brand new ipad?

iOS: Device disabled after entering wrong passcode
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1212
How can I unlock my iPad if I forgot the passcode?
http://tinyurl.com/7ndy8tb
How to Reset a Forgotten Password for an iOS Device
http://www.wikihow.com/Reset-a-Forgotten-Password-for-an-iOS-Device
Using iPhone/iPad Recovery Mode
http://ipod.about.com/od/iphonetroubleshooting/a/Iphone-Recovery-Mode.htm
Saw this solution on another post about an iPad in a school enviroment. Might work on your iPad so you won't lose everything.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
‘iPad is disabled’ fix without resetting using iTunes
Today I met my match with an iPad that had a passcode entered too many times, resulting in it displaying the message ‘iPad is disabled – Connect to iTunes’. This was a student iPad and since they use Notability for most of their work there was a chance that her files were not all backed up to the cloud. I really wanted to just re-activate the iPad instead of totally resetting it back to our default image.
I reached out to my PLN on Twitter and had some help from a few people through retweets and a couple of clarification tweets. I love that so many are willing to help out so quickly. Through this I also learned that I look like Lt. Riker from Star Trek (thanks @FillineMachine).
Through some trial and error (and a little sheer luck), I was able to reactivate the iPad without loosing any data. Note, this will only work on the computer it last synced with. Here’s how:
1. Configurator is useless in reactivating a locked iPad. You will only be able to completely reformat the iPad using Configurator. If that’s ok with you, go for it – otherwise don’t waste your time trying to figure it out.
2. Open iTunes with the iPad disconnected.
3. Connect the iPad to the computer and wait for it to show up in the devices section in iTunes.
4. Click on the iPad name when it appears and you will be given the option to restore a backup or setup as a new iPad (since it is locked).
5. Click ‘Setup as new iPad’ and then click restore.
6. The iPad will start backing up before it does the full restore and sync. CANCEL THE BACKUP IMMEDIATELY. You do this by clicking the small x in the status window in iTunes.
7. When the backup cancels, it immediately starts syncing – cancel this as well using the same small x in the iTunes status window.
8. The first stage in the restore process unlocks the iPad, you are basically just cancelling out the restore process as soon as it reactivates the iPad.
If done correctly, you will experience no data loss and the result will be a reactivated iPad. I have now tried this with about 5 iPads that were locked identically by students and each time it worked like a charm.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Try it and good luck. You have nothing more to lose if it doesn't work for you.
 Cheers, Tom

I have 16GB Ipad and its capacity is only 13.8GB?

I have 16GB Ipad and its capacity is only 13.8GB?

Buy a 4 gig flash drive and you'll find that the actual storage is like 3.7 gig. that's part of the issue, the way computer memory is measured and rounding (it's the same with everything)
And then like the other said, the operating system of the ipad takes up more space. I think my 32 gig Touch really has 27 gig and change in free space

Currently have been using my ipad 2 to pull up emails from my verizon. Last week verizon updated to my Verizon 2.0 and I can not open my emails or scroll down on my emails. Called verizon and Apple and no one could help me open or access my mobile emails

Currently have been using my ipad 2 to open and read my emails from Verizon.
Last week Verizon upgraded to My Verizon 2.0 and it is not compatable with the ipad 2.
I can't open my emails or scroll down to read them. I called Verizon and Apple and no one can help me..
Has anyone experienced this same issue on their ipad?
Frustrated verizon ipad user.

You can also go to https://www22.verizon.com/ForYourHome/VZRepair/vziha/Service.aspx?ihaweb=EmailSe tup
and it gives you a step by step on adding your account. However don't use the server port number they give you because it does not work. I followed the same steps without changing the number and it worked.
The problem I have is that I can not see the folders I created on my Verizon email account, when I open it on my iPad. I have called Verizon & gone to the Apple store and neither had an answer except to say it was the other's problem.
Can any one help?

I have a 16GB ipad and it says only 13GBs have been used up but it also says only 55MB are available?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for