I have selected to use Browser.urlbar.autocomplete but when I am on hotmail my email addresses don't come up (not auto completing0, so I have to enter in the whole address every time annoying when you have more than 1 email address.
The auto complete used to work on previous versions and seems to work on some websites but not on the Hotmail website.
The auto complete used to work on previous versions and seems to work on some websites but not on the Hotmail website.
Similar Messages
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What do I do if one contact I need to enter has MORE THAN ONE ADDRESS
What if I want to enter someone's home and work address under the same card? Can I do that? Or if someone has a summer house... Can I put more than one address under the same card and name?
Can I put more than one address under the same card and name?
Yes, but you can only send email to one of those addresses when you use that contact. That is, you have to pick a default address for the card when you send an email to that person or company.
Mulder -
when you double click the circle buttom, and the little bar pops up from what you have been using... is it using data while being in there? is it a good idea to minimize evertthing out of there often so its not using more data ? or does it not matter?
thanks!Not sure if it uses data, but that allows you to multitask. To save battery life you should close out of all the apps.
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What do I do when I'm half way through a movie on Apple TV. The movie then quits. We go back on to the movie home page and it says you have already rented this movie, please go to settings, then downloads and select downloads but we can't find downloads
Try signing in and out of itunes on apple tv, do you have lastet OS?
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i buy a macbook air with my friend and i changed the apple id also.at first i can update the application but now its impossible to update the application.when i clock to update it shows the id of my fren andsomebody do you have idea to solve this problem.
The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You — not the previous owner — must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1. You don't own another Mac.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the previous owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
2. You do own another Mac.
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
Once booted in Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Apple customer service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support. -
Every time I login, I have to select Country. It takes more than one attempt to select one.
Every time I login, I have to select Country. It takes more than one attempt to select one. What could be done to save it so I don't have to select it repeatedly?
Is this PSE 12? You should not be logging out. In PSE 12 log in = activate. When you log out you are deactivating PSE. Just leave it logged in.
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1. What's the difference between private mode in Safari which i have to turn on every time again when opening safari.
It's a two click activity which i would love to be able to set in the preference as default. It's tyering when have to do it everyday a few times. (Yes, i'm one of many who have the "i like safari but since the update crash everyday a few times" syndrome...
Yes, i have updated my system.
Yes, i have repared disk permissions with disk utility.
Am open for any other help in both cases. Thank you upfront
2. and the "tell websites not to track me" under Safari - Preference - Privacy.That box should prevent websites using trackers to log your movements on the Web to benefit advertisers. I have no idea if it does.
Safari can keep your browsing history private. When you turn on private browsing, Safari doesn’t remember the pages you visit, your search history, or your AutoFill information, so your partner cannot see where you have been, but you must also remember to also turn off acceptance of cookies.
In all other respects Private Browsing is not as private as you might think:
http://www.switchingtomac.com/tutorials/how-to-make-safaris-private-browsing-fea ture-actually-private/
http://www.insanely-great.com/news.php?id=9054
and then Apple's own advice from here: http://www.apple.com/pro/tips/privacy_safari.html
"Note that the Private Browsing option does not prevent Safari from collecting cookies (the preference files automatically generated by many websites). The Reset Safari option clears all cookies. If you want to delete only certain ones, choose Preferences from the Safari menu, click the Security tab, and then click Show Cookies. You can select and delete individual cookies from the list that appears. Careful, though — if you’re a frequent web user, this list can be very, very long."
which is itself incomplete, the relevant part being 'If you want to delete only certain ones.
To that end it is useful to have Safari Cookies installed, which is the only cookie manager available for Safari:
http://sweetpproductions.com/safaricookies/
which automatically deletes all cookies not marked as 'favourites' when closing Safari. It does the same for Flash Cookies, but they are subject for themselves:
From this website:
http://machacks.tv/2009/01/27/flushapp-flash-cookie-removal-tool-for-os-x/
For those who do not know about Flash cookies, more properly referred to as Local Shared Objects (LSO), they operate in a similar way to regular browser cookies but are stored outside the purview of your browser, meaning you cannot delete them from within your browser, whether Safari, Firefox, Opera or any other. Typically they are issued from sites or 3rd party sites that contain Adobe Flash content. Since virtually all internet advertising is delivered in Flash, Google/Doudleclick and all other internet advertising companies are sure to be tracking your browsing behavior with Flash cookies. These companies can see you traverse the Internet as you come upon the plethora of sites that contain their embedded advertising. Check out the Wikipedia entry here.
In Mac OS X they are stored in the following location:
/User’s Home Folder/Library/Preferences/Macromedia/Flash Player/#SharedObjects
The settings for the Flash cookies are stored in:
/User’s Home Folder/Library/Preferences/Macromedia/Flash Player/macromedia.com/support/flashplayer/sys
In OS X Local Shared Objects, or Flash Cookies, are appended with a .sol suffix. Flush deletes all the Flash cookies (.sol) and their settings.
Flush can be downloaded from that page.
If you want to retain certain Flash cookies but not others, the excellent add-on for Safari called SafariCookies now includes a setting for automatically deleting flash cookies you don't want to retain, when Safari is shut down, in the same as it deals with ordinary cookies:
http://www.sweetpproductions.com/safaricookies/index.htm
which not only does that but much more equally useful stuff!
This article covers the issue in more depth:
http://www.wired.com/epicenter/2009/08/you-deleted-your-cookies-think-again/
Flash cookies are also known as 'Zombie Cookies' and are used by a number of firms, including Hulu, MTV, and Myspace. Graham Cluley, senior technology consultant at the internet security firm Sophos, told BBC News that the source of the trouble was Adobe Flash itself, which he called "one of the weirdest programs on the planet".
"I think it's highly unlikely that these large companies have abused Flash cookies - which are different from browser cookies - with malicious intent," he said.
"I think it's much more likely that the vast majority of users are simply oblivious to the bizarre way in which Adobe allows them to configure the software."
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-10787882
And a more recent article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/21/technology/21cookie.html?_r=3&scp=1&sq=flash&s t=cse
[b]Tracker cookies and the invisible web:[/b]
– tags, web bugs, pixels and beacons that are included on web pages in order to get an idea of your online behavior.
Ghostery tracks the trackers and gives you a roll-call of the ad networks, behavioral data providers, web publishers, and other companies interested in your activity.
http://www.ghostery.com/about
This provides an extension to Safari (also available for other browsers) that shows you what data tracking is active on each web page you visit, and enables you to block them. -
I can't reset my security questions and answers. Every time I try to have the reset link sent to my rescue address all it does is ask me to verify the email. I keep doing this and still it wont give me access to the reset questions. Anyone know what else to try?
Jaisah 2nd gen ipod touch wrote:
... All I want to do is reset my security questions because I created my account about 7 years ago and I cant remember the answers ...
Forgotten Security Questions / Answers...
See Here > Apple ID: Contacting Apple for help with Apple ID account security
Ask to speak with the Account Security Team...
Or Email Here > Apple Support iTunes Store Contact
More Info > Apple ID: All about Apple ID security questions
Note:
You can only set up and/or change a Rescue Email Before you forget the questions/answers. -
I have an old iPhone 3Gs with software version 4.3.5, I am trying to use it again, and it works fine, but I have not been able to update the software. Every time I try, I get the following message:
"there was a problem downloading the software for the iPhone, the network connection could not be established". This happens even though I have a working internet connection.
Besides that, all the other functions work properly, even synchronize apps and library.
Will I be able to update the software?look around the forum tons of people repport that they can't update
makes you suspect that apples update servers can't meet the depand of too many users
trying to update at once -
Can i have more than one address book
Is it possible to have more than one address book on my computer. I would like to have 2 so I can use one for personal and use one for special projects
Until I tunes match comes out it does not matter. I cloud is for e mail, contacts, and calendars. Your I cloud ID MUST be an @me.com ID.
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I have business and personal e-mail accounts with different contacts. Can I have more than one address book on my iPhone?
Set up an additional user account and use one for work and one for personal stuff - each will have a separate address book. Turn on fast user switching for easy switching between the two.
AK -
Hello. I have an iPad2, and iMovie software. My main problem, for the moment, is the length of the videos: I can´t create a video with more than 56 seconds. When I try, the app shuts off... Can anyone help me?
Sorry. We can't help you. It's no longer an iPhone. Apple won't touch it.
Take it to whoever replaced the screen and see if they can help you.
iPhones are not user servicable and Apple does not sell iPhone parts at all. I'd be surprised if you were actually able to back it up at this point. It sounds like it's completely borked. -
I clicked on an upgrade box on my ipad and when the upgrade was done my ipad wanted my passcode to open it back up. I have not had to use a passcode to open up my ipad since I set it up and cannot remember the passcode. Every time I try a passcode it disables for longer and longer. It is now disabling for an hour at a time.
FORCE IPAD INTO RECOVERY MODE
1. Turn off iPad
2. Turn on computer and launch iTunes (make sure you have the latest version of iTune)
3. Plug USB cable into computer's USB port
4. Hold Home button down and plug the other end of cable into docking port.
DO NOT RELEASE BUTTON until you see picture of iTunes and plug
5. Release Home button.
ON COMPUTER
6. iTunes has detected iPad in recovery mode. You must restore this iPad before it can be used with iTunes.
7. Select "Restore iPad"...
Note:
1. Data will be lost if you do not have backup
2. You must follow step 1 to step 4 VERY CLOSELY. -
when i click on my external hard drive the screen goes dark and a msg pops up saying i have to shut down my computer by holding the power button and then restart it. when i do that i get the same result every time. it worked perfectly last night..
These instructions must be carried out as an administrator. If you have only one user account, you are the administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Ifou don't see any reports listed, but you know there was a panic, you may have chosen Diagnostic and Usage Messages from the log list. Choose DIAGNOSTIC AND USAGE INFORMATION instead.
In the Console window, select
DIAGNOSTIC AND USAGE INFORMATION ▹ System Diagnostic Reports
(not Diagnostic and Usage Messages) from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
There is a disclosure triangle to the left of the list item. If the triangle is pointing to the right, click it so that it points down. You'll see a list of reports. A panic report has a name that begins with "Kernel" and ends in ".panic". Select the most recent one. The contents of the report will appear on the right. Use copy and paste to post the entire contents—the text, not a screenshot.
If you don't see any reports listed, but you know there was a panic, you may have chosen Diagnostic and Usage Messages from the log list. Choose DIAGNOSTIC AND USAGE INFORMATION instead.
In the interest of privacy, I suggest that, before posting, you edit out the “Anonymous UUID,” a long string of letters, numbers, and dashes in the header of the report, if it’s present (it may not be.)
Please don’t post other kinds of diagnostic report.
I know the report is long, maybe several hundred lines. Please post all of it anyway. -
I would like to know if the download that are free why cann't you download more than 10 and then you have to pay for them
If it's free, then it's free no matter how many you download. iTunes might take some time if you download more than three. I have more than 400 apps and a 50 of them are free and I don't have problem.
Are you sure it was free?
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