I have the 13 inch macbook pro bought in august 2011,the battery life instead of 7 hours lasts only for 3-4 hours why is this so

i was very impressed when i saw the 7 hour battery life of the macbook 13 in the store . but after using the system it only lasted 3-4 hours completely , same was the case for windows 7 pro. all the other functions of my mac are working fine.I buyed the system pin packed in front of me.I questioned the retailer about this but he had no clue what was happenig which caused this.I think this has something to do with china as my mac has been assembled in china and designed by apple californiahttp://computershopper.com/laptops/reviews/apple-macbook-pro-13-inch-2011-versio n these are the specs and the review of the system.but remove the phenominal battery life from the pros.I'm new to apple so please also provide me a location where i can get apple support in Pakistan

The 7 hour battery life is maximum that can be expected with minimal drain, but 3-4 hours either means you are using it very, very hard or the battery is bad. OR the gauge needs calibration, see below.
Turn off WiFi if you are not using it, and dim the display to also save battery power. It also depends on the applications that you are using.
One months is awfully fast for you to lose that much battery time. If the laptop was new, then I would talk to the seller about an exchange, at least exchanging the battery.
Have you tried calibrating the battery? See
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.6/en/9036.html
for how. Please note, this only calibrates when the MBP charges the battery and resets the calibration of time or percentage of battery charge left. The lithium battery does not have a memory.

Similar Messages

I have a 13 inch Macbook Pro. I have bought it just 5 months back. All of a sudden, i am unable to turn the mac on. It doesn't even get Charged. What could be the issue ?

I have a 13 inch Macbook Pro. I have bought it just 5 months back. All of a sudden, i am unable to turn the mac on. It doesn't even get Charged. What could be the issue ?

If you're unable to turn it on, let alone even charge it then it definitely sounds like a battery issue to me. I'd wait for someone else to reply just to be sure but I think somehow the battery by the sounds of it must have died. However, I could be very wrong.
If you're still under applecare which you should be then it should be an easy free fix. Hope this helps!

I have a 13 inch MacBook Pro (2009) & the "White Screen of Death" is present. Need help?

I have a 13 inch MacBook Pro (2009). Recently I bought an extended hard drive because I had used up the memory on my iDisk. As I was running the Time Machine back up on my new extended drive, the battery on my Pro ran out causing it to shut down. Once I hooked up my Pro to the power cord & logged in, the "White Screen of Death" appeared on the home display. Obviously the battery still works, my phone is able to charge along with the extended drive, I am able to adjust the lighting on my keyboard along with adjusting the brightness on my screen, but the "White Screen" remains. I need help in determining the cause of this issue & the steps I'll need to take in order to resolve this. I love my Pro, all my documents, photos & music are on it & the last thing I want to do is kill my wallet by buying a new Pro. So could someone on here please help me? It would be greatly appreciated & I thank you in advance!

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 8
This step applies only to a Mac Pro tower, not to any other model. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions.
Step 9
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

Dear all, I have a MacBook Pro bought in April 2011. Last April, it got stuck while the wheel was spinning and I had to force it shut. That cost me my hard drive. Now, it's stuck again. I tried esc, cmd tab, moving the trackpad on the apple, but no. HELP!

Dear all, I have a MacBook Pro bought in April 2011. Last April, it got stuck while the wheel was spinning and I had to force it shut. That cost me my hard drive. Now, it's stuck again. I tried esc, cmd+tab, moving the trackpad on the apple, but no. HELP!

Dear John,
thank you for your prompt reply. After I sent the email, I left the wheel spinning to see if it would eventually stop. It didn't, but after a while the screen turned blue, so I decided to switch everything off with a forced shut-down. I could not restart with the OS DVDs because I am currently away from home, but fortunately everything was more or less fine after restarting. It then got stuck again, I forced it shut again, restarted again, and now it seem to work but I won't overdo it and will switch off smoothly after writing this (unless it gets stuck again). Last April I have replaced the HD, so it's now just under 6 months old. And, of course, since the crash occurred when I was abroad and had backed up just before I left, I have lost only a few days' work. Still, and I know this will make me hugely unpopular here, with my 5 previous laptops running on MS Windows I never had a problem. Which does not mean I loved the OS, or I would not have switched to Mac.
Anyway, and this is the main reason for this message, thank you very much again for your speedy intervention.
Claudia

My iPhone is about 6 months old now and I would say I don't use it that much. Yet for the last month or so the battery life has been going down and today after having charged it to 100% this morning, it was at 5% at 4 pm this aft. help!!

my iPhone is about 6 months old now and I would say I don't use it that much. Yet for the last month or so the battery life has been going down and today after having charged it to 100% this morning, it was at 5% at 4 pm this aft. help!!

Ok Fellas, let me give you a clue: Games, particularly those that make heavy use of graphics and sound are notoriously power hungry. In fact, when I was in the Navy many years ago, the folks working on the NTDS (Navy Tactical Data System) computers used a version of Space Invaders to load test the AN/UYK-43 computers.
I have also noticed that all of my laptops (I have a brand new Toshiba dual core, an older Toshiba single core, plus 2 Dell dual core machines) have significantly shorter battery life when I play Company of Heroes than when I am just reading e-mail or surfing the 'Net. I have also noticed the same behavior when I play games on my 4th gen Touch and my iPhone 4.
The fact is, iOS 5 did make some major improvements as well as adding some nice functionality like iMessage, wireless synch, and such, but the down side is that depending on how you use the device battery life can be shorter that what you may have experienced with pervious versions of iOS. Its just the nature of the beast...
We now return you to our regularly scheduled programming.....
Oh John.... Oh Marsha.....

TS2634 The battery life on my new iPad is only about five hours when apple claim ten hours is this normal

The battery life on my new iPad is only about five hours when apple claim ten is this normal

Apple's note on 10 hours: Battery life varies by use and configuration; see www.apple.com/batteries for more information.
Check out here for battery saving tips: http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Keeping screen brightness at 50% or less is one of the easiest ways to conserve battery. Turn off Bluetooth and LTE if not in use is also useful.

I have a 13 inch macbook pro 2010 I want to switch the hard drive wat hard drive can i use i know i need a 2.5" but i dont know the dimensions of which one will fit?

Can someone tell me if anyone of these will fit with my 13 inch macbook pro 2010 model
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX33160(ME).aspx
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX31974(ME).aspx
Thanks everyone

The only thing is someone told me the max height for a hard drive for the macbook pro is 9.5mm and some other people tell me is 9mm but both drives are over 9 but the seagate one is 9.5 do you happen to know the max height thats my only concern really?

I have a older intel MacBook pro, now when I try to start up instead of the apple logo I see a file folder with a question mark. Need some help please.

I have a first gen MacBook pro with intel chip. All of a sudden when I try to start up instead of the apple logo I see a file folder with a question mark. Phone support wasn't much help since it is a older machine. It's either a software issue or the hard drive went. Any ideas on how to fix if it's a software issue would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Thanks I tried that and when I click repair it tells me
Invalid volume header
Checking hfs plus volume.
Invalid b-free node size
Volume check failed
Error: the underlying task reported faliure on exit.
1 hfs volume checked
1 volume could not be repaired because of an error.

I have a 17 inch macbook pro running on OSX 10.8.5 but i wanna run mavericks 10.9.1

when i go in to the app store to download mavericks 10.9.1 it says please log into this other email i have never in my life seen before? so how coud i completely dump this computer out so that it is like a brand new computer and will allow me to run the newest up to date software?

Your issue sounds like something with the Mac App Store. Whoever installed your last update may have used their own personal email address and now that is linked to your computer.
I believe you can try to "sign Out" of the App store and put your valid email and password in and see if it will allow the download. For further assistance you'd have to direct your questions to the Mac App Store section of this site as it is not a Macbook Pro issue per se.

MacBook Pro bought in August 2013 Black Screen and Can't See the Cursor

I took the OSX update in the beginning of November and now when I lift up the lid of the notebook and press 'on' I get a black screen and can't even see the cursor. I've tried pressing command + control + p + r. I've also tried command + s. Neither seems to fix this issue. Are there any other suggestions to try? Thanks in advance.

Hi spartan220,
If you are getting no video on your MacBook Pro, I would suggest that you troubleshoot using the steps in this article -
Apple computers: Troubleshooting issues with video on internal or external displays - Apple Support
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Brett L

My macbook pro has an X in the battery sign, and it will not run unless it is plugged in, why is this?

Can someone please help I don't know what happened.
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number:          W012050PSD3BA
Device Name:          bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:          0000
PCB Lot Code:          0000
Firmware Version:          0201
Hardware Revision:          000a
Cell Revision:          0158
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):          0
Fully Charged:          No
Charging:          No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          0
Health Information:
Cycle Count:          0
Battery Installed:          No
Amperage (mA):          0
Voltage (mV):          0
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Wake on LAN:          Yes
Current Power Source:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          2
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
Reduce Brightness:          Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed:          No
AC Charger Information:
Connected:          Yes
ID:          0x0100
Wattage (W):          60
Revision:          0x0000
Family:          0x00ba
Serial Number:          0x00782abb
Charging:          No

I had this problem and went to the Apple Genius bar 3 times and everytime they said it was a logicboard failure.. they repaired my logicboard 3 times and within a week of use the x icon would show up.. and it would only run when the power adapter was plugged in.
But as i was fed up going back and forth to the Apple store.. I left the charger connected for about 3-4 days and one the 4th day I pressed the battery button on the side and Voila! It lit up the amount of battery charged.. Keep in mind that the battery light on the left hand side didnt lit up when I pressed the button when the x battery icon showed up
Not to sure how long this will last but I just checked my battery information and now it shows how much cycles and etc it has.. (when before it had all zeros)
I've found that the x battery icon only comes on when the battery is fully depleted (sometimes)!
Btw I have the early 2011 macbook pro 13" unibody model so I wasn't able to take out the battery beneath!
Hope this works!

Late 2008 MacBook Pro automatically switches back to "Better battery life"

Lately I've been using my mac for a little gaming (now that there's Steam and Starcraft 2), so I've been using the "Higher performance setting" in the Energy Saver preference pane.
But every once in a while I notice my games have automatically set me settings down. And sure enough, when I check, the setting has reverted to "Better battery life."
I know I'm not setting it back there. Anyone know why it would be reset?
My intuition tells me it has something to do with user switching. I use 2 accounts (1 for work and 1 for home) and will Fast User Switch between the 2 of them.
Any help is appreciated.

If you turn off IR (security prefs), turn off the keyboard backlight, and keep the screen backlight down you may be able to increase it a bit. Turning off wireless when not in use will of course increase it tremendously.
But if you have calibrated your battery it sounds about right. Just monitor your battery health with iStat Pro or Apple System Profiler.

My Macbook Air 11 (late 2010) not charging "battery replace now) message 28 months old only 6 charge cycles. what could cause this?

I've unplugged plugged in. Checked the charger. Nothing runing. I've Shut down rebooted ran diagnostics and just about everything resolution I could find on-line. Its almost always plugged in and has not been used on battery power in a long time. Its not run down to zero power before. Just suddenly shut off the other day and won't charge now. Says replace battery now, but I just want to see if it could be something else. Hard to believe the battery went bad like that.
Thanks
Model Information:
Manufacturer:    DP
Device Name:    bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:    0
PCB Lot Code:    0
Firmware Version:    301
Hardware Revision:    1
Cell Revision:    173
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):    0
Fully Charged:    Yes
Charging:    No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):    0
Health Information:
Cycle Count:    6
Condition:    Replace Now
Battery Installed:    Yes
Amperage (mA):    0
Voltage (mV):    5104

mattk68
always plugged in and usually in sleep mode.
So it was always plugged in, never discharged, and was never really OFF, just in sleep mode.
Sounds like you got some half-true 'advice' from some people.
It DOES shut down when fully charged and you cant "overcharge" your macbook....., and the "others" were correct that your battery should be cycled every couple weeks at least.
what they didnt tell you is "plugged in and OFF is one thing.......plugged in ALL THE TIME...AND in sleep mode (for years)......NO!"
Heres some info for the "next battery" :
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles DOWN on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery.
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your macbook and therefore you cannot 'overcharge' it when plugged in and already fully charged
If you leave your macbook plugged in all the time, take it off charge and drain the battery down to 15 or 20% every couple of weeks or so.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
LiPo batteries do NOT like to be dropped down to 15% or so often,....key word being "often"
A lot of battery experts call the use of LiPo cells the "80% Rule" ....meaning use 80% of the charge or so,.. then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook die from power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
**Also new evidence suggests that sudden loss of power can adversely affect data on a SSD (solid state drive).....again, dont let it ever shut down from total power loss
The only quantified abuse seen to LiPo cells is instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low.
Contrary to what some might say, LIPo batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity.
Same way you dont take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
*Also, if youre going to store your macbook away for a few weeks or more,... make sure it has at least a 50% or so charge.
*Cycle count / use/ lifespan is one thing that cant be countered.
Proper treatment is another thing. Just because LiPo batteries dont need conditioning in general,.. does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesnt need conditioning.
Just use and enjoy your new macbook,
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
but really all you would keep in mind is --"consider 15-20% is the same as 0% and recharge it"
and best "tip" is if its near a socket, .....plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)"

2015 Macbook Pro lists 74.9 Watt-hours last the charge on the battery, Mine says 66 Watt-hours. Is this right? This notebook is brand new.

11 cycle count. Wondering about those who own similar.

After looking at your original post, there is no technical information in it
that may help anyone reply to your question with a degree of accuracy.
•Mac notebooks: All about batteries - Apple Support
http://www.apple.com/batteries/maximizing-performance/
Good of you to question someone asking for more information, and tell
them to further learn from your vague request for general info without
identifying the exact model build series including display & cpu.
Glad you've figured it out. LOL!

Windows 8 ruined the battery life of my 230

hi people,
I updated my x230 to windows 8 yesterday since the power management tool had been updated too
but no matter what I do, I can't seem to get my power consumption to 6-7 watts like I could with windows 7, it won't go below 14-15 watts... so basically I have 5-6 hours of autonomy instead of my beloved 12-13 hours
I think it may be because of the metro interface that require constant updates to display fresh content
what can I do? did any of you encounter this problem? any idea of solution?

Yes. You may have to take the computer to the Apple store to have the battery replaced.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3371
For details:
http://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro/service/battery/

I have the 13 inch macbook pro bought in august 2011,the battery life instead of 7 hours lasts only for 3-4 hours why is this so

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