I life 08 and power pc g4
Is their any way I can use I life 08 on a pc G4. can I up grade or do I just bite the bullet and buy an new computer?
Hello and Welcome to Apple Discussions.
Personally I don't find iLife 06 all that pleasant on my 1.25GHz G4 iMac, however that said you can run most of the iLife Apps on the iMac G4 depending on which exact model you have and how much RAM you have. iMovie 08 won't work on any iMac G4 however given the lack of features in it and the universally poor reviews it's getting you should opt for the free download of iMovie HD (6.0.4) which is a more powerful editor and included with iLife 08.
http://www.apple.com/ilife/systemrequirements.html
mrtotes
Message was edited by: mrtotes: Sorry Keith, I started writing before you posted...
Similar Messages
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Poor battery life and high temperatures on MacBook Pro Retina 15"
I'm having never-ending problems with poor battery life and high temperatures on a MacBook Pro Retina 15"
I took it in for service and they told me it needed a new logic board and replaced it. When I asked why they were vague about the reasons, they said "it just needed one, it failed some test". I now have the computer back and it runs the same way it always did. I bought this laptop because it was supposedly capable of high end video editing in 1080P (or so Apple's website claims) and also photo editing.
"The processor, graphics, all-flash architecture, memory, and display in the 15-inch MacBook Pro give you unprecedented mobile video editing capabilities. Super-responsive flash storage delivers up to nine streams of 1080p ProRes (HQ) content for multicam editing in Final Cut Pro X,3 while the latest quad-core processors on the 15-inch MacBook Pro decode multiple streams of video, and a powerful GPU renders millions of pixels onto the screen. With flash storage that offers up to four times the performance of a traditional hard drive,1 you can even edit four streams of uncompressed 8-bit 1080p HD video, right from the internal storage on your 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina display.4"
However, when I'm just browsing the web and emailing it runs quite warm and battery life is quite poor. Sometimes doing those same activities I would say it gets so warm it's almost uncomfortable to have on your lap and the fans are running fast enough to become noticably noisy. I'm also driving only one screen at and a time and I heard that the MacBook Pro can supposedly do three screens.
If actually try to do something like video editing with final cut pro the laptop gets really hot, the fans are on full blast and battery life drops to only an hour or two. I think when I rendered just a 3 or 4 minute clip once I got less than hour of battery life. I will have to time again.
Anyway most people (including the sales guys) are telling me no way this is not normal. When I play with demos in the store browsing the web they are not getting warm or hot to the touch. My friend's 2013 MacBook Air is also NOT getting warm to the touch doing the same activities.
I installed iStat Pro so I could check the temperature and fan speeds. I'm seeing temperatures of 70+ on the GPU, 85+ on the GPU diode and 65+ on the CPU heatsink along with elvated fan speeds above 5K which becomes noticeably noisy. I understand that might be normal for the most processor intensive tasks but it really doesn't seem right for just light web browsing and e-mailing. (I also may have viber and skype open but that shouldn't matter). CPU usage is usually running between 2-10% as this is all happening to.
Furthermore, straight from the specs:
Intel HD Graphics 4000
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 1GB of GDDR5 memory and automatic graphics switching
I am assume "GPU" and "GPU diode" are temp measurements on the discrenete NVIDIA video card, especially since MacBook Airs from the same and newer generatio do not have this reading. Since Apple Claims the graphics "automatically switches" it seems all the harder to believe the GPU is reaching 85+ when in theory it shouldn't even be activated. I mean, shouldn't the INtel HD Graphics 4000 be capable of simple web browsing and e-mailing? Especially with only one screen activated (be it it the internal or an external)?
What should I do here? When I asked the repair guys "OK well what is the normal operating temp range for the various sensors" they said "Sorry Apple doesn't provide that info".Yes I have.
Just web browsing and basically doing nothing I'm hear a lot of aduible fans, I'm getting 85C+ on GPU diode, 65+ on cpu heatsink. I since installed anohter program that shows me not just the CPU heatsink but the cores and the cores are at 90C+.
Seems like a lot of heat for doing nothing. Not only that but I have these problems with no external monitor while on battery power too.
I don't know what to do. They already replaced the logic board. Others seem to get advertised battery life out of Apple products and not have products that get **** near hot enough to burn you while just web browsing or watching a movie let alone advertised tasks like Photoshop and Final Cut Pro. -
How do I stop an app from waiting? I have tried to reboot by holding the home key and power button to power down. The app is still grayed out and waiting so it cannot be deleted. Also, I have tried to sync the apps from my laptop and tried downloading new appswith no success. Can you help? Thanks
If there are multiple apps trying to download at once, only one can download at a time and the rest say "Waiting" until it is then their turn. Try this. Double tap the icon of the Waiting app, and it should resume the download.
How to Solve the Problem of An iPad App Download Stuck on “Waiting”
http://ipadacademy.com/2012/06/how-to-solve-the-problem-of-an-ipad-app-download- stuck-on-waiting
How To Get Rid Of Your iPad App Download Frozen Problem
http://www.sidelineapple.com/how-to-get-rid-of-your-ipad-app-download-frozen-pro blem-and-not-lose-years-of-your-life-video/
iTunes: How to resume interrupted iTunes Store downloads
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1725
Another thing to try - Turn the iPad Off & then back ON.
If that doesn't work:
• Log out of your iTunes store account. Go to Settings > Store > Sign Out Then press the Home button.
• Then press and hold the Home and Sleep buttons simultaneously and don't release them when it brings up the Turn Off screen; keep holding them until the Apple logo appears.
• After restart, the Waiting should be gone.
Cheers, Tom -
Battery Life and apps - specifically: Whatsapp, Gr...
Experiment: Smartphone battery life and Web 2.0 applications
Objective: To determine the battery life of a Nokia Symbian S60v3 {or ^3} phone under the use of web applications, the majority of which are social networking apps.
Apparatus: Nokia S60v3 FP1 (E90 Communicator, E71, etc) {or ^3 (N8, E7)}, Gravity, Nimbuzz, Nokia Email, Joikuspot, Whatsapp, MXit, BirdStep SmartConnect & Lights On. 3G/GPRS internet connection.
Method:
Install the latest versions of the softwares mentioned, activate Whatsapp (through sms). Use all apps as desired.
With Nokia Email, set sync period for wake/daytime only, i.e. when you are awake - say 06h45 to 22h45, daily.
For Network mode, select dual mode (S60v3: Menu/Tools/Settings/Phone/Network; ^3: Menu/Settings/Connectivity/Network)
At commencement of sleep period (first night), exit all apps. Set your alarm. In the morning, check Log (S60v3: Menu/Log; ^3: Menu/Applications/Tools/Log), scroll across to the list, note all Packet Data connection attempts.
Use applications at will on day two, shutting down/going offline with those you do not require. If the battery gets flat, charge it, continue to use apps/browsers if you can/need.
At commencement of sleep (second night), select go offline for Nokia Email (S60v3: Nokia Email {main menu}/Options/Go Offline), exit all others apps. In the morning, check and note Log parameters.
Repeat steps 4, 5 & 6 with varying Network mode (step 2). In all cases, phone should stay in a non-offline state - people should be able to reach you via phone call or sms at all times.
Make sure you clear browser cache every night prior to bedtime. You should check Browser (Menu/Web/Options/Clear Privacy Data/Clear Cache). Further, remove or disconnect battery to completely freshen the system.
Finally, delete Whatsapp, and repeat step number 4.
Observation:
The results for steps 1 to 8, inclusive, are essentially similar, in that access points (S60v3: Menu/Tools/Settings/Connection/Access Points & Menu/Tools/Sett. wizard, alternatively use your service provider to define access points) are activated throughout the sleep period, as follows (13 July 2011):
Internet .Vodacom(01): 00:38; 00:46; 00:54; 01:03, etc.
Internet.GPRS: 00:37; 00:41; 00:45; 00:49; 00:52; 00:57: 01:00 , etc.
Internet.GPRS(Joiku): 00:38; 00:46; 00:54; 01:02 , etc.
Vlive!: 00:39; 00:47; 00:55 , etc.
WAP.Vodacom: 00:39; 00:48; 00:53; 00:56 , etc.
Vlive!Streaming: 00:41; 00:48; 00:56 , etc.
Vlive!MMS: 00:43; 00:51; 00:58 , etc.
Internet.Vodacom: 00:37; 00:42; 00:45; 00:50; 00:58; 01:01 , etc.
BS_Gravity App: 00:41; 00:49; 00:57 , etc.
BS_Browser: 00:42; 00:50; 00:58 , etc.
Basically, an app is active throughout the the night. All data connections are outwards, last 5 or 8 seconds, a few last 34 seconds, most receive/transmit zero data, a few receive 1 kB. The final connection was an outward 12 minute 55 second at 05:08 using the Internet.Vodacom access point, sent 65 kB & received 360 kB.
Upon deletion of Whatsapp, no data connection attempt is made throughout the sleep period.
Conclusion: There is no way of turning off completely Whatsapp. Further, general phone use throughout the day disguises minute-by-minute data connection attempts by Whatsapp. This is wholly unacceptable app development in light of limited battery development for all smartphone platforms. All other apps installed on these devices have kill switches if you do not wish to continue use. All other apps, including the pricy Gravity, operate within the limits of the battery technology available and within the capabilities of the Symbian system. I do not think the trade off - all-encompassing IM service over sms sacrificing battery life is fair.
Facts:
BS_Gravity App & BS_Browser are access points defined in the Birdstep SmartConnect Client for Nokia ESeries phones. It's a client that aggregates normal network operator access points as well as Wi-Fi access points so that you do not have to continuously change access points on apps. BS_Gravity App for Gravity and all other social IM apps, BS_Browser for Web browser and Opera browsers.
Following deletion of Whatsapp, my E90 is back to around 4 hours battery duration under heavy use, primarily a very active Gravity & Web browser, up from about an hour with Whatsapp.
I am extremely content with general day to use of my Nokia phones, E90 & N8 alike. The E90 continues great operation, what I'd expect, the N8 covers base primarily browser capability - all other strengths complimentary.
Joikuspot is a considerable power user for extended use, but this is understandable, as the app gathers and transmits data which requires lots of power - basically, it's like having a 3G connection going boths ways. I'd imagine that any similar app on any competing platform saps power.
Recommendation: Install an on/off switch on the Whatsapp application. Please. Thank you.
Symbian connected me to the world, to my dreams.. Thank-you NokiaI found unacceptable issues with the software, namely very high battery use. Many consumers will come to Nokia first before they complain to a developer - if indeed they ever do complain there. Use of the app in question paints Nokia batteries in a much harsher light than reality - people should be aware of this before they install the software.
There's a software issue here (developer x), and a software solution (developer y). The following link explains how to use y to defend from the excesses of x: http://softvision.posterous.com/39438314
Symbian connected me to the world, to my dreams.. Thank-you Nokia -
Important!! Improve the life and performance of the battery.
Reduce the operating temperature and increase battery life
The battery in your notebook PC is designed to provide the necessary amount of energy for the processor while maintaining HP high safety standards. As a result, the battery may not charge or may stop providing power to the notebook when the battery temperature exceeds the specified, design safety level.
If the battery life appears shorter than normal, the battery stops charging before it is 99%-100% full and the battery appears warmer than usual, the battery has most likely reached its designed "no charge" safety state. The battery will no longer charge until the temperature condition is corrected.
Try one of the following methods to correct the battery temperature:
When charging the battery, do not use applications that require large amounts of system resources such as graphic or memory intensive applications, heavy and extended hard drive usage.
Turn off your notebook and remove the battery to allow it to return to a safe operating temperature.
Make sure the notebook PC is operating on a hard surface. Using the Notebook PC on a bed or sofa may block the vents causing the notebook PC to heat up and shut down.
By taking these steps, the battery will return to its normal operating temperature range and continue to charge and discharge as designed.
Calibrating the battery while PC not in use
Recalibrating the battery requires a cycle of a complete charge and a complete discharge. To recalibrate the battery while using the PC is not is use complete the following steps.
The recalibration may take 1-5 hours depending on the age of the battery and the configuration of the notebook PC you own. The PC should not be used while you perform the following steps. Completing all the following steps will also calibrate the battery so that the power meter readings are accurate.
Shut down the notebook PC
Connect the AC Adapter to the notebook PC and to an electrical socket.
Charge the Notebook PC until the Battery Charge light is Green. This indicates the battery is completely charged.
Press and release the Power Button to start the computer.
Press the F8 key several times when the HP Logo displays.
When the Windows Advanced Startup Menu displays, select the Startup in Safe Mode option.
Remove the AC power adapter from the notebook PC.
Allow the battery to discharge completely until the notebook PC turns off.
The battery is now calibrated and the battery level reading on the power meter is now accurate.
If you are not using the notebook regularly then please unplug the AC adapter and shut down the notebook. By following these practices will improve the life and performance of the battery. Here is a quick list of Do's and Don'ts for the care of your Li-On batteries:
Do's
When you receive a new Notebook or Tablet PC, leave the battery to fully charge overnight.
Condition a new battery by using it until it is fully discharged, and then re-charge it fully. Doing this once a month will help to accurately calibrate your battery.
Always ensure the battery is recharged as soon as possible after it becomes fully discharged. A battery will be permanently damaged if left for an extended length of time in a fully discharged state.
Remember that a Lithium-Ion battery will slowly deteriorate; a new battery will always perform better than one that is 6-months old.
Remember that the battery half-life is rated for a certain total number of charge/discharge cycles (see your User Manual or Quick Start Guide for the rating). For example, a battery that is rated for 3 hours and 500 charge/discharge cycles, will still be considered as within specification, even if it only lasts for 1 hour 45 minutes after 500 charge/discharge cycles.
Heat is the worst enemy of a battery. Allow plenty of air to circulate around the Notebook/Tablet PC, so that the battery is kept as cool as possible when charging and also when in use. If provided, use the integrated 'legs' under the Notebook to raise the notebook and improve air circulation.
Remove the battery if storing for several months (the battery should be at approximately 50% charge or higher).
If you use a NoteBus or if charging your Notebooks or Tablet PCs in a confined space, allow for adequate ventilation in order to keep the batteries as cool as possible.
Don'ts
Do Not - Expose the battery to excessive heat or cold (i.e. outside the range of 10-35 degrees Centigrade ambient).
Do Not - Store the battery in a fully charged state (store batteries with about 50% charge).
Do Not - Allow a nearly flat battery to be unused for more than a month or so. The battery will slowly discharge until it becomes fully discharged and this will permanently damage the battery cells.
Do Not - Charge your Notebook/Tablet PC inside a carry case - the battery may overheat.
Do Not - Charge your Notebook/Tablet PC when stacked on top of each other - the battery may overheat.
Remember: Your battery is slowly degrading all the time, even if it is not used. Keeping your battery as cool as possible will slow down this degradation considerably.
For more information please visit the following links:
How to Improve the Performance of the Battery
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01297640&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en
10 Tips to make your Laptop Battery last longer
http://labnol.blogspot.com/2006/03/10-tips-to-make-your-laptop-battery.html
Disclaimer: By clicking on the link above, you will be leaving HP.com to visit a web site that is not maintained by HP and where the HP privacy policy does not apply. This link is provided to you for convenience and does not serve as an endorsement by HP of any information or contacts that you may find on this non-HP site.
||-Although I am working on behalf of HP, I am speaking for myself and not for HP.-||
//Click on Kudos if my reply was helpful and answered your question//
||-If my answer solved the problem please mark the topic as the accepted solution-||I hope the above article will help you guys..
||-Although I am working on behalf of HP, I am speaking for myself and not for HP.-||
//Click on Kudos if my reply was helpful and answered your question//
||-If my answer solved the problem please mark the topic as the accepted solution-|| -
SX 280 - The Life and Times of the Lowly Battery
I know there is another thread about the battery issues on this camera. I have even posted there, but that thread is long and Canon seems to have forgetten about its issues with the battery. So, here is a new thread that will hopefully get Canon's attention. I do think they decided that the issue is closed after the latest firmware "fix," but it still is a problem. So, ...
Canon, please convince me to keep the SX 280. Please tell me that the latest firmware change to 1.0.2 was only one step in the process of resolving the poor battery life and hasty shutdown during the recording modes.
Do you monitor battery levels differently in picture mode and recording mode? It sure seems like it. You definitely display different levels. Is the level displayed in each mode an anticipated level and not a true level of power remaining? If this isn't the case, then I do not understand why the levels are very different in the picture-taking and video-recording modes. If the battery level starts flashing red (low battery warning) in the video mode, it should be flashing red in picture mode. Instead, we see the battery level display fully charged or partially charged when switching to the picture mode from the flashing red of the video mode.
Zooming puts a drain on the battery. No argument here. But, I think that what the camera is doing is monitoring the battery level during a zoom and if it sees the battery level drop below some line, it triggers the red-flashing or shuts off the camera. I think that the camera should allow the zoom to complete, THEN check the battery level. It might not be that low. Of course this only seems to be an issue during recordin mode.
The battery gets quite warm, almost hot. I wonder if battery life "improves" when used in cooler temperatures.
I am not sure if I am going to keep the camera. I am hoping that Canon opens it eyes and ears and uses its intelligence to really determine the cause of the battery problem and FIX IT. For now, Costco's excellent return policy will allow me to test this camera a bit longer. My tests actually show a respectable amount of battery life, but there is still a problem in the video recording mode. I am not much into video recording, but if I have it, I expect it to work. It would really be nice to know how much battery power is remaining when doing anything on this camera. I just want ONE BATTERY LEVEL that is displayed the same while in any camera mode.I hope the above article will help you guys..
||-Although I am working on behalf of HP, I am speaking for myself and not for HP.-||
//Click on Kudos if my reply was helpful and answered your question//
||-If my answer solved the problem please mark the topic as the accepted solution-|| -
Hi folks as in the title:
My Ipad 4 froze up and rebooted automatically numerous times.
It then immediately froze up completely and didn't try and reboot itself.
I then hard restarted the device using the home and power buttons simultaneously.
I got the Apple logo and saw my desktop for a moment and then it froze up.
Hard rebooted again only this time I saw "connect to iTunes".
I connected the device to my MBP and iTunes where I was told it was in restore mode.
I followed the on-screen instructions in iTunes to restore the device.
I spent 15minutes downloading the necessary files etc only for the restore to fail through error code '1600'.
I explored this error code in Apple support and followed all Apple's suggestions, and subsequently tried the restore each time.
I have now exhausted all fix options for '1600'...and I can't even get 'connect to iTunes message' on my iPad device now.
Any suggestions would be welcome please?
Kind regards.Thanks for the response Demo.
Unfortunately I don't have another computer with which to try a restore from.
I've tried to reboot the iPad again using the sleep and home buttons (whilst it is unplugged from my MBP) and it remains completely lifeless. I know there is 80% battery life in the device as I had it charging when it malfunctioned.
I've tried recovery mode through iTunes in excess of 15 times now all yielding the same and inevitable result of 'error 1600'.
I think it's time to get to know the team at my local Apple store... -
my ipod will not charge or turn on or show any sign and its not jailbroken and i tried holding the home and power button and all that stuff but nothing works please helppppppp
Go through the steps here and see if anything works for you.
iOS: Not responding or does not turn on - Apple Support
You might have to bite the bullet and restore the device if nothing else works. If that doesn't bring it back to life, make an appointment at an Apple Store and let take a look at it. -
3g iPod battery life and hard drive head...
Hi all!
I have a 3G 20GB iPod, and sometimes the battery drains itself out even with a brand new battery and the iPod being shut off.
I can barely get 4-5 hours of playing time, no backlight, equaliser, and no songs skipping.
I found out that you can hear the head of the hard disk moving even when the iPod is turned off. One of my relative has a 3G 15GB iPod and she's experiencing the exact same problem of battery life, and her iPod's hard drive make's the exact same noise. And she also has a brand new battery.
So can you listen to your iPod, (even between times when the iPod has stored the data to it's RAM the head of the hard drive is still making some kind of movement) and tell me what you think.
I've tried to install all previous versions of iPod software to no avail.
For now I have completely erased the drive with "zero all" along with a surface test by Tech Tool Pro, and it seems to have made a difference.
Time will tell, post your observations and I will keep you posted.
QuickSilver 933 Mac OS X (10.4.8)MrSpike wrote:
The largest detractors for battery life are the obvious ones like backlight usage, anything that makes the HDD seek (FFW, skip track, etc...) using EQ, and volume. There are many other areas but most are pretty minor. Alot of it actually depends on the chip that regulates energy to the player. Supposedly we will be seeing new chips that double or triple battery life on these mp3 players in the near future but we shall see.
Hard disk is by far the biggest user, backlight uses some (but you wouldn't have the backlight on, and it's not good for the life of the EL panel either). EQ seems to have issues on some players where it uses far too much power in my opinion, specifically the Smart Volume function. I hope Creative can address the power demands of this if possible. Creative managed to double the base battery life of the Touch with the changes they made in some of the hardware, so greater li'ves are definitely achievable.
Rich_T: I've used your excellent test data as the start of a battery curve graph I'm putting together. I'm taking Creative's benchmark data and anything else I see to try and create curves for the players under different circumstances. I think once we have a base curve for one circumstance we can probably extrapolate it to all the other players, at least as a guess.
If anyone at Creative has any battery life figures for different scenarios (which I would be amazed if they didn't) it would be very useful -
Need to find the weight and dimensions of RSP and Power Module of ASR 9922
Need to find the weight and dimensions of RSP and Power Module of ASR 9922. I am unable to find the same in the data sheet. Please help
Regards
Thanveer
"Everybody is genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is a stupid."duplicate post
https://supportforums.cisco.com/message/4143520#4143520
Riv -
[865PE/G Neo2 Series] Memory timings and power settings anyone?
I'm not very good with computers, so I've just played around with the timings on my memory, but have not found one stable setting as of yet.
The memory is brand new and I've tested it for errors on my brothers computer and there's nothing wrong there.
Intensive harddrive usage, dvd playing and intense downloading while listening to music are sure ways to crash my system. "..........Not less or equal" is the most common error message, but there are
many many more.
Oh, maybe I should point out that overheating's not an issue, cause I've good fans and run my computer without sidepanels.
I also like to say that I have the first generation of p4 with ht and 533fsb.
I'm sure there's something I forgot to mention but here below I'll paste the system summary that Sandra gave me.
Would be forever grateful if someone could help me out with the memory timings and power settings for my board. Setting it to "auto by spd" gives me a very unstable system, so no avail there.
I'm running the mem at 2.70 and sometimes at 2.65, since these two settings seem to be the ones with least crashes.
The Memory installed are 4*512mb ,kingston 512 kvr333x64c25 pc2700
The PSU is a Tagan "TG480-u01" 480w
Many many thanks in advance guys.
SiSoftware Sandra
Processor
Model : Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.06GHz
Speed : 3.10GHz
Performance Rating : PR4118 (estimated)
Cores per Processor : 1 Unit(s)
Threads per Core : 2 Unit(s)
Internal Data Cache : 8kB Synchronous, Write-Thru, 4-way set, 64 byte line size
L2 On-board Cache : 512kB ECC Synchronous, ATC, 8-way set, 64 byte line size, 2 lines per sector
Mainboard
Bus(es) : ISA AGP PCI IMB USB FireWire/1394 i2c/SMBus
MP Support : 1 Processor(s)
MP APIC : Yes
System BIOS : American Megatrends Inc. V2.5
System : MICRO-STAR INC. MS-6728
Mainboard : MICRO-STAR INC. MS-6728
Total Memory : 2GB DDR-SDRAM
Chipset 1
Model : Micro-Star International Co Ltd (MSI) 82865G/PE/P, 82848P DRAM Controller / Host-Hub Interface
Front Side Bus Speed : 4x 135MHz (540MHz data rate)
Total Memory : 2GB DDR-SDRAM
Memory Bus Speed : 2x 168MHz (336MHz data rate)
Video System
Monitor/Panel : Iiyama A201HT VisionMaster Pro 510
Adapter : RADEON X800 Series
Adapter : RADEON X800 Series Secondary
Imaging Device : CanoScan FB630U/FB636U #2
Imaging Device : Video Blaster WebCam 3/WebCam Plus (WDM) #2
Physical Storage Devices
Removable Drive : Diskettenhet
Hard Disk : ST3160023AS (149GB)
Hard Disk : WDC WD1000BB-00CAA0 (93GB)
Hard Disk : WDC WD1200JB-00CRA1 (112GB)
Hard Disk : FUJITSU MPG3409AT E SCSI Disk Device (38GB)
CD-ROM/DVD : PHILIPS DVDR1640P (CD 63X Rd, 63X Wr) (DVD 8X Rd, 8X Wr)
CD-ROM/DVD : PLEXTOR CD-R PX-W4824A (CD 40X Rd, 48X Wr)
CD-ROM/DVD : AXV CD/DVD-ROM SCSI CdRom Device (CD 32X Rd) (DVD 4X Rd)
CD-ROM/DVD : AXV CD/DVD-ROM SCSI CdRom Device (CD 32X Rd) (DVD 4X Rd)
CD-ROM/DVD : AXV CD/DVD-ROM SCSI CdRom Device (CD 32X Rd) (DVD 4X Rd)
CD-ROM/DVD : AXV CD/DVD-ROM SCSI CdRom Device (CD 32X Rd) (DVD 4X Rd)
CD-ROM/DVD : AXV CD/DVD-ROM SCSI CdRom Device (CD 32X Rd) (DVD 4X Rd)
Logical Storage Devices
1.44MB 3.5" (A:) : N/A
Hard Disk (C:) : 149GB (101GB, 67% Free Space) (NTFS)
Xp (D:) : 112GB (2.1GB, 2% Free Space) (NTFS)
Big (E:) : 93GB (9GB, 10% Free Space) (NTFS)
Jimjimjim (F:) : 38GB (2.1GB, 5% Free Space) (NTFS)
Bologna_2 (G:) : 3.9GB (UDF)
CD-ROM/DVD (H:) : N/A
Bfv_3 (I:) : 486MB (CDFS)
Doom 3 roe (J:) : 650MB (CDFS)
Sims2ep1_1 (K:) : 650MB (CDFS)
Bf2 dvd (L:) : 1.9GB (UDF)
CD-ROM/DVD (M:) : N/A
Peripherals
Serial/Parallel Port(s) : 1 COM / 0 LPT
USB Controller/Hub : Intel(R) 82801EB USB Universal Host Controller - 24D2
USB Controller/Hub : Intel(R) 82801EB USB Universal Host Controller - 24D4
USB Controller/Hub : Intel(R) 82801EB USB Universal Host Controller - 24D7
USB Controller/Hub : Intel(R) 82801EB USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 24DD
USB Controller/Hub : Intel(R) 82801EB USB Universal Host Controller - 24DE
USB Controller/Hub : USB-rotnav (hub)
USB Controller/Hub : USB-rotnav (hub)
USB Controller/Hub : USB-rotnav (hub)
USB Controller/Hub : USB-rotnav (hub)
USB Controller/Hub : USB-rotnav (hub)
USB Controller/Hub : USB-enhet (sammansatt)
USB Controller/Hub : Stöd för USB-skrivarport
FireWire/1394 Controller/Hub : OHCI-kompatibel IEEE 1394-värdstyrenhet
Keyboard : Logitech HID-Compliant Keyboard
Keyboard : HID-tangentbordsenhet
Mouse : HID-compliant MX310 Optical Mouse
Mouse : HID-kompatibel mus
Mouse : HID-kompatibel mus
Human Interface : Logitech WingMan Force 3D USB (HID)
Human Interface : HID-kompatible konsumentkontrollenhet
Human Interface : HID-kompatibel enhet
Human Interface : Logitech Virtual Hid Device
Human Interface : Logitech Virtual Hid Device
Human Interface : Logitech USB MX310 Optical Mouse
Human Interface : Logitech WingMan Force 3D USB
Human Interface : USB HID (Human Interface Device)
Human Interface : Internet Keys USB
MultiMedia Device(s)
Device : Audigy X YouP-PAX A4 v1.00 Audio Driver(WDM)
Device : Creative Game Port
Device : Pinnacle PCTV Stereo PAL Capture Device
Printers and Faxes
Model : Microsoft Office Document Image Writer
Model : Canon PIXMA iP4000
Model : Adobe PDF
Power Management
AC Line Status : On-Line
Operating System(s)
Windows System : Microsoft Windows XP/2002 Professional (Win32 x86) 5.01.2600 (Service Pack 2)
Network Services
Adapter : Intel(R) PRO/1000 MT Desktop Adapter #2Thanks for your answers.
Danny: 1. Yes, I've put my memory in my brothers computer, and ran memtest there, and it came out ok, but on mine it crashes almost instantly.
2. Yea, I have 2 fans blowing into the case and one out, so airflow is good, cpu is also cool and seems to be happy ;-)
Geps: I can't say I understand all these numbers but there are som specs here as an example, Tagan TG480-U01 480W ATX
I can't imagine that this psu ain't enough, and if so.....I've been had by the dealer. -
How do I use sqrt() and pow() math functions?
I tried starting with import java.lang.Math.*; and using sqrt() and pow(), but I get an error response in compilation.
//** 1/pi calculation program using Ramanujan's forumula **//
//** by n=2 iteration, double precision value for 1/pi repeats **//
import java.lang.Math.*;
import java.io.*;
public class CalcInversePiRamanujan {
public static void main(String args[]) {
double n=0, term, four_n_factorial=1, n_factorial=1, inverse_pi=0;
inverse_pi = four_n_factorial * 1103 * 2 * sqrt(2) / 9801; //** initial value for n=0 **//
System.out.println(inverse_pi);
for (n=1, four_n_factorial=1, n_factorial=1; n<=3; n++) {
four_n_factorial *= (4 * n);
four_n_factorial *= (4*n-1);
four_n_factorial *= (4*n-2);
four_n_factorial *= (4*n-3);
term = four_n_factorial;
n_factorial *= n;
term /= pow(n_factorial, 4);
term *= 1103 + 26390 * n;
term /= pow(396, 4 * n);
term *= 2 * sqrt(2);
term /= 9801;
inverse_pi += term;
System.out.println(n, term, inverse_pi);
System.exit(0);
}all methods in math class are static so you have to call them as
Math.pow() and Math.sqrt() you dont have to import any additional packages as Math is a class available in java.lang package
you have to change your
System.out.println(n, term, inverse_pi); to
System.out.println(n+ term+ inverse_pi);
math class also provides the value of Pi you can access it using Math.PI -
Poor battery life and WiFi connectivity on iPhone 5s
I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.Puneet_Agg wrote:
I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.
Where exactly did you buy this new 5S? -
3GS battery life and current location problems
I have a 3GS. Until I took a holiday in Mexico it worked fine. On return, the battery life is one half or less as before. I thought I may have picked up a virus or something connecting to the local WiFi (data roaming turned off). I restored a backup and no change. Then I noticed that the 3GS was not able to find its location. I tried several suggestions from several forums to no avail.
The details:
I recently took a holiday in Mexico. On return I noticed that the battery was not holding a charge as well as it did before I departed or while I was in Mexico for that matter. On return it takes two to three charges to make it thru the day. My first thought was a virus or malware. I did some research on the forums and it was suggested that I do a restore. Ironically, gratefully, I had done a backup before I left so I preformed a restore. There was no change to battery usage. Trying more trouble shooting I discovered that my iPhone cannot find its current position. Once again I researched the forums. I tried changing the international location and back again, resetting the network settings and turning airplane mode on and off. I was able to find a location that was incorrect (several blocks away compared to right on before my holiday) one time and now once again my iPhone cannot find its/my location. On occasion, not every time, when trying to find my location I receive an error message “Could not activate cellular data network”. My theory is the battery life and in ability to find its location may be connected.
Any help will be appreciated.I read this and felt a funny coming on....
I know its not funny when an appliance that we depend on doesn't work right, but my funny bone said, "Did you shake the phone to reset the GPS, and did you fly backwards from Mexico to reset everything as it was before you left?"
Forgive me!!!!
Message was edited by: De Gomment -
Hi!
I purchased my AppleTV in Miami, but I live in Argentina.
I have not been able to get my device running correctly, and altough I've read tons of things online, I still have no solution to my problem.
Here's the thing: after everything's plugged in and ON, I see the Apple logo briefly, then the TV displays a sign that says no signal, check pwoer cords and power source.
But everything is plugged in and connected properly, otherwise, I doubt I'd be seeing the apple logo, right?
I tried changing the HDMI cable, reversing the ends, switching ports, hard resetting the ATV, and trying a different TV. No luck.
I read there is some issue with Samsung TVs, and most LED and LCD tvs down here are Samsung.
On the other hand, I cannot return it or exchange it, since I bought it in the states.
Oh! One of the tvs I tried it on displays a little sign that reads "connected at 1280x720 @60hz", and only THEN, goes to the "no signal" sign.
Please!!! I am being driven up the walls here.... HELP!!Try this:
Change the Apple TV resolution:
Press and hold the Menu and Up button on your Apple Remote for six seconds.
The Apple TV will automatically cycle to the next resolution at approximately 20 second intervals.
Press Play on the Apple Remote to keep the current resolution or Select to manually cycle to the next resolution. -
I want to remove the monitor from my 17" Macbook Pro 2008 to use as an external for my Macbook Pro 15" 2012. How can I convert lvds to Thunderbolt and power the monitor?
It's almost impossible. The new iMacs have a Target Display Mode, but it's built to do that. Without ripping your screen out, finding an acceptable power supply, frame, and whatever electronics to convert a Thunderbolt signal to the screen, the cost will be much larger than buying a cheaper HiDef monitor that runs with an HDMI to Thunderbolt cable to your MacBook 15. In fact, you can sell your 17" MBP for a lot of money, unless it's broken or something, buying you a really sweet monitor.
By the way, I found your answer by searching this forum. I would suggest using the search function here in the futuere.
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