I love my neighbour but not that much

Since purchasing my new macbook I can now see a list of other 'available networks' in my airport drop down menu (could never see these on my powerbook.. but maybe thats the power of airport extreme for you) Obviously I always log on to my default but I was wondering if anyone could be piggybacking onto my adsl connection without me realising and taking up bandwidth. Is there a way to check and indeed to restrict?
THE BLACK MACBOOK Mac OS X (10.4.6)

I'm guessing BabbleFish's translation of the Spanish manual is a little lacking? ;-(
The most common URLs for accessing a router via a browser are http://192.168.1.1 and http://192.168.1.254 (check the router’s manual and/or the manufacturer’s website). Have you checked the manufacturer's website to see if there's an English translation of the manual available?
If you never entered a password to connect to your preferred network the first time (after which it'd be stored in Keychain), then your WiFi Access Point (WAP) or base station or WiFi modem (there are almost as many names for that as there are for USB thumb drives) would indeed be wide open. There should be options in the router's setup page to enable security; look for the initials WPA (best but requires a security server), WPA-PSK (good), and/or WEP (better than nothing). Note that most WAP's will show WPA when they're really WPA-PSK. Also look for numbers; the longer the number of bits used for the password key, the better (a 128-bit key is better than a 40-bit key).
You can get some additional WiFi security by setting the WAP to not broadcast it's network name. The network can still be used if you already know the name, and there are sniffer programs that can find a WiFi network not broadcasting it's name, but going quiet on the name does block most casual snooping. Look in the modem's browser setup for "SSID" (Service Set Identification) to see if you can disable broadcasting it.
I haven't found a good utility for checking who's on a particular net, but you can check your own computer's IP number (in System Preferences> Network> TCP/IP) and then use Applications> Utilities> Network Utility to manually ping through the address range used by your WAP; e.g., if your Mac shows an IP of 10.0.1.2, start pinging at 10.0.1.3 and head on up --- if the WAP's router is assigning IP numbers via DHCP, it should start at .1 and go on up to .255

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I have a iphone 5...I had 2k pics on it and as I kept adding more I got the storage is full message so I deleted all pics off and now I have only 300, a handful of apps and not that much music and I am getting this message again!!!! help please

I have a iphone 5 and I used to have 2k pics on it well I kept getting the " no storage is available" message so I deleted all of them and now I have 300 and a handful of apps and not that much music or videos and the message is coming up again..can someone shed some light on this for me? I have just about had it.

bring it to your local apple store, they will be able to target your problem accuratley.

I want to change my primary e-mail address that I use with Apple ID - help guide says Select Edit next to "Apple ID and Primary Email Address." But there is no 'edit' on that section there is on every other but not that one. Can anyone help?

I want to change my primary e-mail address that I use with Apple ID - help guide says Select Edit next to “Apple ID and Primary Email Address.” But there is no 'edit' on that section there is on every other but not that one. Can anyone help?

You can create an alias @icloud.com email address within your current account that will receive email in your current iCloud inbox (see http://help.apple.com/icloud/#/mm6b1a490a). (@me.com addresses are no longer available as new addresses.) Just be aware that you cannot use an alias address later to create a new iCloud account or move it to a different account.
Also, even if you created a new iCloud account with a new ID, your existing purchases would not be lost. They are permanently tied to the original ID you used to purchase them. You can also continue to use the existing ID for the iTunes store; it does not need to be the same as the ID you use for iCloud.

I have deleted my iCloud app from my iPad and cannot get it back. I've reset the home screen, everything else appears but not that

Not sure if I had to submit my question:
I have deleted the iCloud app from my iPad and cannot get it back. I've reset the home screen, everything else appears but not that

There isn't an iCloud app, I'm not sure what it is that you have deleted, but it isn't iCloud.

I have over 3,000 photos/videos from 4S iphone and need to get them to my new, "my passport studio(1Tb)" but no iphoto on passport... not that much space on mac book too... is there an easier way

I take lots of photos/videos of my kids and my iphone is hooked up to my macbook-pro and then new-my passport (1Tb) and having problems on transfering them to external hard drive (my passport). "My passport" does not have iphoto so I can't use it as a start up hard drive to my computer... I can't download on computer because it says it is full...
any suggestions,
thxs,

Move the Library to the Passport?
Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
3. Hold down the option (or alt) key while launching iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library' and navigate to the new location. From that point on this will be the default location of your library.
4. Test the library and when you're sure all is well, trash the one on your internal HD to free up space.
Regards
TD

I am trying to understand my Console System Log Queries, but not having much luck!!

I am trying to understand my MB late 2011, much better than I do, whilst looking through my console messages, I realised I don't have a clue as too whats what, I seem to be getting a lot of system errors - Is this normal?
Why are Mac Books soooo complicated - !
I would copy and paste my system messages - but once again I am 2 thick - don't know which bits - if any would need editing!
Any advise would be a great help.
Thankyou in advance.
la9

You would use the Input button on your remote to set the Input to RGB PC and you'll also need audio cables to the TV because the Mini-DVI does not carry audio using a 3.5mm stereo headphone jack to RCA sound plug. You attach it from the headphone jack of your MacBook to the appropriate input plug on your TV.
When you first hook it up it will probably have the display set in Extended Desktop mode. The Menu Bar and Dock will be on the MacBook display and your background screen on the TV but you can move the cursor onto the TV screen.
In System Preferences>Display on the MacBook screen there should be an Arrangement tab when you have the MacBook hooked up to the TV and both screens working. When you click the Arrangement tab do you see two monitors side by side? One of them will have a Menu Bar at the top. Just click on the Menu Bar and drag it to the second monitor. That will make the second monitor your main screen. You can now use your MacBook in Clamshell Mode with a wired or Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131 When you disconnect from the TV your Menu Bar will automatically change back to the MacBook.
Or if you want to work on the MacBook screen while showing it on a TV you can check the Mirror Display box on the lower left hand side of the Arrangement tab under the two monitors box.

OutOfMemoryError on Jtable with not 'that' much data

Hi,
Im getting outofmemoryerror when using my jtable. The dataset is collected from an xml file at the moment (soon to be changed to mysql as were getting too much data for xml) but anyhow, of course it depends which pc you are on, but when accessing our programs applet sometimes we will get this outofmemoryerror with only 1056 lines. Now I know lots of people are going to say just cut down the number of lines displayed, use a filter, etc etc, and we are working on adding a filter, but for now I need all of the lines to be displayed, and well I have seen people displaying 10,000 lines or more before getting this error.
Maybe I am doing something simple wrong. Please take a look.
Im not really sure what code to supply you with, as the StudyTableModel wont be of any use really....
Im just after some advice really. Why do you think I am getting my OutOfMemoryError with so few rows?
Thanks, and if you want any code supplied, then just ask :D
James

I meant profiler, sorry typo.
Wikipedia explains it best: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Profiler_%28computer_science%29
You'd want a memory profiler.
If you're still a newbie than getting this stuff to work might seem like a big task and could take some time, but in the end it will definitely be worth it, since knowing where your problem is is much, much better than guessing ;-)

I purchased an itune. It has me Authorize and I do and it keeps coming back saying Authorize again. My other tunes will play but not that one? Help from anyone would be great.

I purchased a song from i tune. I try to play the song but am asked to AUTHORIZE, I do that and it comes up saying to AUTHORIZE again and again. Have you any ideas out there. Thanks.

Thanks very much I have contacted them via this. Just hope they respond quickly- rather annoing! Greatly appreciated though

Sounds Great in Logic 7.2 Express, but not so much when bounced to AIFF

When I play my track in Logic it sounds great, but when I bounce it and play the .aiff it doesn't, it sounds less dynamic, not as rich.
Can someone give me some advice/tips about bouncing? What are the best settings for the best sound quality? The track well end up on a cd.
Thanks!
You can listen to the work in progress here (levels are not finished and this is an mp3):
http://www.djgecko.com/mp3/05yesterdaystomorrow.mp3
Dual G5 2.0 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Hey B,
The track seems fine dynamic wise, (apart from some audio clicks here and there). Are you using any audio interface? If yes, that can be the cause, after bounce you probably earing from the mac output.
If you're recording at 24 bit (44.1KHz), use dither at bounce, to have a nice 16 bit.
You can also use the mastering plug-ins on the Output 1-2, on channel strip, click on the inserts arrow>logic express>mastering and choose>final master pop or dance to see wich one you like best. This loads a bounch of plug-ins at the master that will give a nice push to your mix. Watach the levels if it's too hot, bring down the compressor gain.
Best regards,
Jorge

Thought I fixed the problem, but not so much...

I posted a question a few minutes ago regarding my iPod's Wi-Fi being extremely slow. So, I read a few postings about it and someone suggested to reset the network settings. I did that, but now I can't connect to Wi-Fi at all. I am at school and the Wi-Fi here is not locked so I don't have any info to input to be able to "join." Please help!!!

Try resetting the iPod:
Reset iPod touch: Press and hold the On/Off Sleep/Wake button and the Home
button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
Next the troubleshooting here:
iPhone and iPod touch: Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
It would be nice if yu could get the administrators of the network to power off and then back on the router.

Nexus One has these same issues, but not that many people own them.

http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/android/thread?tid=34ae2c179184c33e&hl=en
here is the post from googles forums.
I think its a secret bug from google lol.

People should look at this.

In April 3o,2012 and May 9,2012 some purchases of $38.75 and $24.51 were made and they were not made by me because i never spend that much. Thing is that on February 7,2012 my ipod was stolen and i havn´t gotten it back since, i need to know who did this!

In April 3o,2012 and May 9,2012 some purchases of $38.75 and $24.51 were made and they were not made by me because i never spend that much. Thing is that on February 7,2012 my ipod was stolen and i havn´t gotten it back since, i know have a new ipod and have made some purchases but never that much. I need to know who did this !!!!!!

The most immediate thing you need to do is to call your credit card company and report the unauthorized charges. Your card company can contact Apple if they need additional information.
Next, log into your iTunes Store account and see if the purchases are reflected in the Purchase History. If they are, immediately change the password to your iTunes Store account, making sure it's not something easily guessed or looked up. Then go here:
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/
and follow the instructions to report the issue to the iTunes Store. Whether or not they'll do anything for you I don't know, particularly if you didn't change the password after your iPod was stolen.
If the charges are not reflected in the Purchase History, then it's most likely a fraudulent charge to your credit card directly rather than an unauthorized purchase through your iTunes Store account in which case it will be up to your bank to handle.
Regards.

Logfile switches too fast, but not much content inside..

hi guys,
Glad to be back.
I am having this problem at the moment.
I am on a development db, there isn't alot of actual users.
I have 5 redolog file of 128mb each.
However, they are filling up fast -> from v$archived_log
/rdsdbdata/db/SOCIALSG_A/arch/redolog-36159-1-781327165.arc     36159     28-AUG-12 05:13:57
/rdsdbdata/db/SOCIALSG_A/arch/redolog-36158-1-781327165.arc     36158     28-AUG-12 05:08:50
/rdsdbdata/db/SOCIALSG_A/arch/redolog-36157-1-781327165.arc     36157     28-AUG-12 05:03:52
Almost 5 minute per logswitch.
But i have no idea why is it filling up so fast, and thus i use logminer to go into the redolog and have a look.
Inside view v$logmnr_contents, I do not see plenty of transactions (about only 250 rows)..
so how do i know which is the rows that is actually filling up this 128mb ? 250 rows of data only, it can't be that big -> (128mb?)
I check individual archivelog file size (blocks * block_size) in v$archived_log and it isn't even 100mb yet.
Is there any other reason why my logfile are switching so fast ?
What should i do next?
Regards,
Noob

hello,
5 minutes per logswitch is not that much. the recommended logswitch frequency is 3/hour.
I've seen dbs, with several logswitches per minute.
So that is not really that high. check:
General Guideline For Sizing The Online Redo Log Files [ID 781999.1]
as to 250 rows -> 128MB, that means that each row has +-500KB. depends on what is being loaded/updated/etc.
so you should just prepare for the number of archivelogs that will be generated on average on any given hour or day (space wise)
also, archivelogs are usually smaller than your redo logs.
BR,
Pinela.

Back to my mac - iCloud enabled, but not working

Last year I made very regular use of Back to My Mac. Time and again I had no problems using my Mac Book Pro and connecting to my Mac Pro back home - did this from all over the place.
Then last month, my DSL router died and I had to upgrade.   The Netgear switch I had used stopped letting Back to My Mac work - turned out there was a glitch and I was one of the few who had a working unit, but not that it had tanked I could not get it back. All systems would get an error when trying to enable Back To My Mac instructing me to review my settings, enable UPnp, etc...
So now I have a new Netgear R6300 and my MiniMac, Mac Pro and Mac Book Pro all can have Back to My Mac checked without an error showing up. Can uncheck and re-check and the spinning wheel does it's thing and the box shows properly with no error.   Great - but apparently not really.   All these systems are in the same network, so of course they can see each other from within my network - no need for Back To My Mac at all.
But as soon as I try and connect from outside my network I can't.   The Netgear R6300 provides a guest wireless network (that can't see or share the home network), so I can grab another IP address and effectively be outside my home with the Mac Book Pro.   Again, no error when I look at iCloud - and I can uncheck and recheck the Back to My Mac box and the handshaking necessary seems to be fine - but I do not get my home systems appearing in the Finder Shared list as they once did.
The systems in my house can't see the Mac Book Pro either.
As I have a group of static IP addresses from Centurylink I can use a fireware adapter and directly connect a network cable to the M1000 DSL modem - and directly pull one of my other IP addresses for the Mac Book Pro and have it completely out from under the Netgear R6300.   But the situation is the same - the Mac Pro and Mini Mac both appear to be configuered for Back to My Mac (can check, un-check and recheck without an error), but they can't see the Mac Book Pro.   Likewise the Mac Book Pro appears properly set for Back To My Mac - but it can't see either the Mac Pro or the Mini Mac.
It makes no difference whether I enable the Centurylink M1000 DSL firewall or have it disabled.   UPnP is activated on the Netgear R6300, and if I turn it off I get an error when trying to set up Back to My Mac with any system funneling through the R6300 that the connection can't be made and I should check things like UPnP.    So when it is enabled there certainly seems to be at least some sort of semi proper handshaking going on.
For diagnostic purposes only, I have stretched a really long Cat 6 cable accross the room and plugged the Mac Pro directly into the M1000 DSL too - pulling yet another static IP from my assigned block. Now the Mac Book Pro and the Mac Pro can see each other via Back to My Mac - but neither can see the Mini Mac, and it of coruse can't see either of them.
I am not wedded to Netgear, but I have had lousy luck with Linksys and Asus - the Asus. The Mini Mac is a server (web and email) and Asus would not properly route mail to the Mini Mac and their Tech support was both difficult to reach and unable to explain why, just go try another.   The Linksis EA6500 was dead out of the box, and again Tech support suggested to just go get another one.   Asus was truly horrible to work with, but I would try another Linksis - but I have had flakey history with Belkin and Linksis which is why I went to Netgear.
So I know that the Centurylink M1000 does not appear to be the issue as devices connected directly to it can enjoy Back to My Mac.   I know that the Netgear R6300 appears to be working but clearly there must be something wrong somewhere.
I don't seem to be caught in a double NAT issue, and I don't have extreme firewall issues in play.   Much as I would like and intend to put stiffer rules in place, right now I just want to get thigns working.
Clearly I am missing something. Suggestions - even for a different router know to be working in a small but robust network with cable and wireless would be most welcome.   All three systems are running OS X 10.8.3 - the Mini Mac also running server. Both the Netgear R3600 and the Centurylink M1000 have the latest firmware.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Is the Extreme in bridge or router mode.. most people are finding it has to be in router mode to work although I don't think that is specific in the instructions..
You should not need to access the extreme to get into the Mac though.. do you have a hard disk on the AE you are trying to access??

Hard Drive Shows Up In System Profile, But Not On Desktop

I took the old hard drive out of my intel mac mini (60gb fuji) and installed it on my power mac g5 (1.8 single); it worked long enough for me to copy all my old files over before it randomly froze and i had to restart. after that the new drive only shows up in the system profiler and not on the desktop. in the system profiler it states its capacity but not how much is available, like the main drive. any ideas on how to get the old drive working again?

figured it out, thanks!

I love my neighbour but not that much

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