I'm using a 2007 MacBook Pro and having a problem updating to IOS 6. Is this possible on my device or is my computer too outdated for the IOS 6 update?

I aquired my used MacBook Pro when entering college three years ago. When the IOS 7 iphone update came out yesterday I updated my iphone. After the update I attempted to sync my iphone to itunes on my MacBook Pro. When attempting to do this I recieved a pop-up that stated I would not be able to sync my iphone with IOS 7 to itunes until I downloaded itunes version 11.
I then visited the itunes site to download this version of itunes. When attempting the update, I recived a pop-up that stated I was unable to download this version of itunes because my MacBook Pro does not have IOS 6 installed.
I am not sure how to install IOS 6 or if my computer is able to update to IOS 6 since it was made in 2007. I occasionally have difficulties updating other programs because my computer is outdated and I was wondering if IOS 6 is the same.
Thanks for your help.

It sounds like it is not allowing you to install the newest version of iTunes because you do not have OSX 10.6.8 installed. Click on the  -> About This Mac and check the version number. If it is anything less than 10.6 you need to purchase Snow Leopard from Apple.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard

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Just bought a used Oct '13 MacBook Pro and I can't sign into the App Store as it still displays the old owners user ID in the login box (in fixed grey text). Any ideas of how I what I could do? Thanks.

Just bought a used Oct '13 MacBook Pro and I can't sign into the App Store as it still displays the old owners user ID in the login box (in fixed grey text). Any ideas of how I what I could do? Thanks.

The first thing you should do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. How you do that depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1. You don't own another Mac.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc, which you can get from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. I suggest you install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. If you don't have the media, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
2. You do own another Mac.
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
Once booted from the disc, the USB device, or Internet Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive, which is what you should do.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
You should then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. If you want to upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Apple customer service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it under your ID. In that case, contact iTunes Support.

After having yet another problem with my MacBook Pro and having to wipe the drive, I am now unable to sync my iPhones etc without erasing all the music on them. Is there a way around this? I have no other library!

After having yet another problem with my MacBook Pro and having to wipe the drive, I am now unable to sync my iPhones etc without erasing all the music on them. Is there a way around this? I have no other library!
iTunes is a mess! It couldn't find it's own libraries and I was forced to create a new one. Now I don't know where my music is or if any's missing.

columbus new boy wrote:
How crap is that?
It's not crap at all.
It's not that simple. For example, I've 3500 songs on my MacBook but don't want them all on my phone, so I have to manually select each song again???
There has to be a solution.
Why not simply make a playlist with the songs you want on the iPhone?
and maintain a current backup of your computer.

How do I synch my iPhone5, MacBook Pro and Apple TV so that my iTunes downloads appear automatically on all three devices?

How do I synch my iPhone5, MacBook Pro and Apple TV so that my iTunes downloads appear automatically on all three devices?

Let me see if I've gotten this right! You want to remove an account from BOTH machines? Do this for your new machine first, then for the other.
Click the Apple logo on the top left of the screen, System Preferences, Users and Groups (under Systems), unlock the lock in the window if its locked (you need to know the password), select the user that you wish to remove, and click the - sign next to the + sign for Login options. A window will pop up with some options. Select Delete this user and securely, and click 'Delete user'.
After this, do an update from the App Store.
Thats all there is to it.
For the other machine repeat the process except for one thing. Before you delete the user in this case YOU, you will have to give Administrator priviledges to your son bu checking the box 'Allow user to administer this computer'.
Do NOT do anything from Finder ... if you dont know how to fix the consequences of the problems caused.
There is no need to unauthorize your iTunes account on your new machine. Do it on the old machine though.

Hi, I want to format my macbook pro and i don't know what to choose from this list---: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) Mac OS Extended Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive, Journaled) Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive)

Hi, I want to format my macbook pro and i don't know what to choose from this lis
Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
Mac OS Extended
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive, Journaled)
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive)

MAC OS Extended (Journaled)

I am now using a different MacBook Pro, and want to install my CC, I have done that and downloaded the Photoshop App but its a trial version. How do I get the full version of the apps?

I had a new MacBook Pro that was damaged and I am now using a different MacBook pro as my primary computer (running yosemite 10.10.1).
I did uninstall the Creative Cloud off the old MacBook before I stopped using it.
I have downloaded the Creative Cloud and signed in using my adobe username and password, but when I went to download the Photoshop App it is only giving me the TRIAL VERSION.
How do I make sure that the apps are the full version that I have already paid for? (I do know that my subscription is still current)
Thanks for your help
- Shawn

Shawn I would recommend utilizing the steps in Sign in, activation, or connection errors | CC, CS6, CS5.5 - http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/activation-network-issues.html to resolve the connection error which is likely preventing the software from authenticating.

I just bought a MG5420 printer to use with my macbook pro, and for some reason my laptop only detect

I just bought the MG5420 to use for my macbook pro, and my laptop only detects it as a scanner. I installed the included set up CD but can't get printer to work/connect with my macbook. how do i get the mac to recognize the printer?

Hi chinesechecker ,
To ensure the most accurate information is provided, please let us know if you are using your printer through the USB connection, or through the wireless setup. Also, please let us know the specific version of Mac you have (ex. 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, etc).
If this is a time-sensitive matter, additional support options are available through the link below:
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/standard_display/contact_us_consumer
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Purchased a used Late 2011 Macbook Pro and cannot get find my Mac to work. What do I need to do?

So I purchased a used late 2011 Macbook Pro from a friend. I am trying to get the find my Mac app set up but it won't let me because I believe he still has it as one of his devices. I texted him a couple days ago to ask him to remove it, but it doesn't seem he has or is in any rush to do that. I was debating re-installing the entire OS to give myself a fresh start. Will this give me the ability to set my computer up on the find my Mac app or is it tied to something more than the hard drive/OS.

Esteban1015 wrote:
I actually think I will be upgrading the hard drive size. So to confirm, when I reinstall the OS on this new hard drive, I will be able to add this as my own device within the Find my Mac app?
Yes, after you zero out the drive.
Which os is installed?
Just out of curiousity, what happens on my friends end to this device?
It's your friends problem not yours. Your friend will have to get his "Find my Mac" app.

Overheating macbook pro and start up problems

Hi
I have a 2007 macbook pro that had system 10.4 on.
I did a system update on it to 10.6.8.
Now It wont work at all - I cant even get past the spinning wheel at start-up!
Also before I did this it was getting very hot quite quickly.
Ive done some research and I think it may have a faulty logic board also.
Basically I just need to know if the mac can be rescued or if its time to sell for spares!
Thanks
Gareth

Is your 2007 MacBook Pro a Unibody? (I keep forgetting when the Unibody form factor was released)
If not, remove the battery and try to reboot without it: this will downclock the processors (I know I'm technically cutting corners here, but it has the same effect as downclocking the processors), and help keep your Mac's working temperature at a manageable level.
If you've got 10 USD to spare, install CoolBook on your machine; it'll undervolt your logic board, thus making it disperse less heat.
Of course, if your logic board is already toast...
I were you, I'd zero the hard drive after backing up my personal data (try booting in Safe Mode by holding the Shift key until you get the grey Apple backdrop and the progress bar), then reinstall Snow Leopard as clean install, with the battery removed (provided you can actually remove it, of course). Worked for me the last time I had to reinstall on a prone-to-overheating 2006 MacBook Pro.
Message was edited by: FrenchToast, who's got a cold. Microbes, anyone...?

I recently purchased, from the APP store, Lion for use on my MacBook Pro. I wish to upgrade my IMac to Lion also. Do I need to make a 2nd purchase or will the single purchase suffice? If the single purchase will suffice, how do I facilitate ?

I recently purchased, from the APP store, Lion for use on my MacBook Pro. To upgrade my IMac to Lion, need I make an additional purchase? If not, how do I facilitate the IMac upgrade?

No, you do not need to re purchase Lion. You can re download Lion on all your authorized Macs using the same Apple ID.
How to re download apps from the Mac App Store:
Open the App Store. From the menu bar click Store > Sign In
Click Purchases from the top of the App Store window.
Select which apps you want to re download. Then right or control click where you see Installed then click Install.

2007 Macbook Pro and Snow Leopard

After the upgrade to snow leopard my macbook pro won't start anymore, it does spin up, chimes and then just has a black screen, no pointer, can't use the function buttons. I have tried all the usual suggested reboots, nothing works, any ideas for a "at home fix"?

Try reinstalling:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.

Macbook Pro and Vga projector problem

Ok this is probably an easy question for someone clued in on apple tech.
I have a macbook pro 15 (2010) I connect to my classroom projector via a vga cable to the mini-port on the side. When the projector shows the picture it is not what i want to show, but a blank homescreen. If i go back to my macbook and drag the document or movie all the way to the right, so it is off the screen then it shows up on the projector screen. After it shows up I can use it, but have to use if from the projector screen as I can no longer see it on my computer.
Have I messed up my settings, or is this normal. I would just like to plug the projector in and see what i see on my screen on the projector screen, at the moment I can choose either edit on my mac but the class can not see it, or edit on the projector which is hard as the mouse is on the mac.
Can anyone offer a suggestion
Many thanks
Aky Hunt

I know what to do on a PC but not a macbook. Basically it sounds like your display is extending to the second screen, not duplicating (meaning what you project and what you see on your mac screen are the same)
Try to poke around in the set up slideshow or display settings of your program (keynote?) and see if there are controls for extending or duplicating the screen.
What program are you using? If there's a forum for it I can ask the hosts to move this to the specific forum and see if it can get you a more precise answer faster. Or we can just get them to move it to the macbook forum.

MacBook Pro and Vizio HDMI problem

I have a 2010 Macbook Pro, a new Moshi Mini DVI to HDMI converter, HDMI cable, and a Vizio VW32L (32 inch HD TV). The MacBook detects the TV, but the TV only shows "Retrieving Data..." for a few seconds and then goes to blue with "No Signal!" showing.
Is there anything I can do? Is there something I don't know that would prevent this from working? Are there any settings on the TV or MacBook I can fiddle with to make this work?

No MacBook Pro uses mini-DVI. It uses mini-DisplayPort if it is newer than a certain generation, otherwise it uses DVI-D. Are you sure you got the right cable description?
What does your Apple menu -> About This Mac -> More info
say about your MacBook Pro x,x model.
MacBooks without the Pro name have used mini-DVI prior to a certain age, and after a certain time started using mini-Displayport. Knowing your exact model will tell us what connector you should be using.
If you are using a Pro and definitely a mini-DVI, I'm surprised your MacBook Pro sends any signal let alone doesn't get damaged in its port.

Macbook pro and Logic 9 problems

I have a Macbook pro 1,1 (2006), 2.0 intel dual core processor and have been using Logic 9 for a few weeks and it has been ok at times but really struggles others. I only have 2gb of ram, does anyone know if I can upgrade the ram (from what I've seen I can't) or another way I can get Logic to run better on these specs? It has real problems when I try to run my tascam soundcard and itunes at the same time. Just trying to avoid having to spend on another mac!
Thanks!
ERB

Hey, thanks for the interest Jazzhead! I'll try and explain it a bit better here. So when I'm in the normal arrange view, you know how there are two channel strips along the left hand side? The track you have selected, plus the output track. Well when I'm trying to move my cursor around or zoom in/out using the trackpad in the arrange portion of the screen, sometimes what I'm doing with my fingers changes the volume on those channel strips. If I have a full mixer up, it will effect some of those channel volumes all though that is less of a problem. It's just really annoying when you go and zoom out of the session using the track pad, and you accidentally put the 1/2 Output to +6dB and not even realize it.
Thanks again,
Cam

Macbook Pro and Thunderbolt USB problem

I have read a few threads regarding problems with the Thunderbolt displays and Macbook Airs. None of the suggestions in there work for me including doing an SMC Reset.
Here is my problem. I have a brand new Macbook Pro 17", 2.5Ghz Core i7, 8gb ram, 750Gb HD etc., new Thunderbolt display. Running OS X Lion 10.7.3.
In the back of my display I have plugged in a USB mouse from Logitech, an Apple full size keyboard and my wired ethernet connection. The monitor and peripherals stay at work and I take the Macbook Pro home every night. If I do not follow a certain sequence every morning, my computer freezes. I put the power connector in first, open the lid, wait for the screen on the laptop to show the login prompt, login and then and only then can I plug in my Thunderbolt connector. Once I do this, my second screen lights up and my mouse, keyboard and ethernet connection works. But if I plug in the Thunderbolt first before power up or if I plug it in before logging in, then I have a high probabilty that the USB hub on the back of the monitor will stop working altogether. Then I have to move my mouse and keyboard over to the laptop and everything works great (my ethernet keeps working fine though). My mouse scroll for whatever reason goes into high gear and starts scrolling much faster and I have to slow it down.
Now, this works 90% of the time. But there are days, like today, where this process does not work. And when it doesn't, either I have to move the USB devices over or like today, the machine freezes and no longer responds to any input. It appears to still be working as the screen updates but I can never regain control of it via any keyboard or mouse.
My co-worker has the exact same setup and exact same problem. We also have 10 Thunderbolt displays here (all new) and same problem with ANY I choose. So this is not a hardware issue. Something is wrong with the driver code for some device. And my co-worker has an Apple mouse so that's not the issue either. If this can help Apple with debugging, here is another interesting tid bit. 3 weeks ago, I had a non Thunderbolt display. And for 6 months with an older laptop, I had issues with it's USB hub. Same kind of problem. Some days, the USB hub in the monitor would work and others it would go dead until a reboot was performed.
I think a driver needs some fixing somewhere.
Thanks,
EJK

For the past 3 days I have had no issues after trying something different. After reading btully's post, what I decided to do is power off the Thunderbolt display every morning before I plug my laptop in and so far this seems to work. 3 days is not a data point but perhaps if others try too for a bit, we can see if this solves the issue for some of us. I will keep you all posted and see if this continues to work.
One thing to note as well, is that if I power off the Thunderbolt display while logged in and do not retract the plug first, the system hangs often. I am not sure if I am imagining this as I think once you power off the display it must be just like pulling the cable out no??
Anyways, one thing is clear, there is a problem somewhere with either Thunderbolt display firmware or Mac OS X drivers.

I'm using a 2007 MacBook Pro and having a problem updating to IOS 6. Is this possible on my device or is my computer too outdated for the IOS 6 update?

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