I need a heat sink/fan for p7-1254

my desktop is getting really loud and i need to replace the fan and possibly also the heat sink, but i dont know what to search for. Can you help me?!
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Here it is on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-P7-Desktop-CPU-Cooling-Fan-Heatsink-644724-001-/360760738117?pt=LH_Defaul...
Part No. 644724-001
HP is out of stock at partsurfer
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I need a heat tollerant Mac for my studio

I need a really good mac for my new music studio (to run Logic on). My ancient Mac is a G4 Platinum.
I live in South Australia, and just like New Mexico it get very hot here in the summer. You can expect it to average 38C to 45C for a lot of the hottest part of summer and I know that a lot of computers can't take the heat. We have a pile of dead laptops that attest to that.
If all I wanted was a PC laptop I'd go get a dell M4700 as it is MIL-STD-810G 3rd part tested & compliant to deal with high temperatures, but I need a Mac for this purpose (PC's suck at smooth audio/video).
Although I would prefer a new one, if the best answer is an older model with a different case (and perhaps water cooling) I will deal with it. computer producers seem to want everyone to live inside of an air-conditioned space where the temp is pushed down under 80F. There are a lot of consumer grade laptops that hit 50C just rfom burning a DVD, but are definitely not rated to that temp.
If there was a way to put water cooling on the new Mac Pro (without violating the warranty) that would be my anwser. It really bothers me that

Laptops... waiting for the next die shrink from Intel that will deal with heat better and not need fan.
Broadwell for mobil, but Intel has its IDF conference coming in next week with new generation of Xeon too (though don't hold your breath as to if they will find their way into Mac Pro workstation in early 2015 as can happen as in 2008 and again in 2009 with previous chips)
the Mac Pro is not a laptop. It is a cylinder and it probably is quiet and able to keep it self cool very well - but no system can run cooler than ambient temperature unless it is water-cooled perhaps. Just not the PowerMac G5s! no way. Heat, noise, old and half of liquid cooling units failed. H100 unit in a PC?

Heat Sink Screw for V40z Opteron Daughter Board

Would anyone know where to get a Heat Sink Screw Assembly for a V40z Opteron Daughter board?
It's the Type A, with external threads on the spring assembly and internal threads on the standoff. see
http://docs.sun.com/source/817-5248-20/chapter4.html#83890

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Heat sink part # for Dual 1 GIg QUicksilver . . .

Is this a correct heat sink # ? 805-3096 B ?
(Thought it was 805-3706)
Anyone?

Thats the official part number of the kit including the springs, but the heat sinks also have a white tag on the bottom with a part number.
I have one I pulled from a dual 1gig QS and it reads 805-3706 (white tag)
Any clues as to the these white tags with numbers on the bottoms of the heat sinks?

I need a replacement CPU fan for a HP Pavillion MS225 All In one desktop.

I have been told that the part is proprietary but HP no longer makes the part - and I have not been able to locate even a used or refurbished fan. How can this happen? The computer is less than 2 years old!!!!
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It's been solved by RedRose0528, here
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Replacement Fan for DV7-6195US

Greetings All,
I need to order a replaceent fan/heatsink for a DV7-6195US notebook. I can't seem to find the part # or any other info. for this on the usual pages. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thank you in advance.
--- Gary

Gary,
Specs: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c02863098
Manual: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02842278.pdf
The manual only lists fan/heat sink assembly for Intel processors with 2GB discrete graphics system & not for 1GB discrete graphics, which is present in yours.
This is your Laptop's HP part surfer link:http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?SearchText=LW170UA
In there too, only UMA & 2GB graphics system cooling fan/heat sink assembly part numbers are listed,
Only part for 2GB discrete graphic system is listed- 666391-001 (partsurfer) or 653627-001 (manual) .
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L30LKW?pc_redir=1408522867&robot_redir=1
But, from this thread - http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware/Cooling-Fan/td-p/3475779 , spare part number for 1GB discrete graphics such as yours is listed as 666390-001.
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?SearchText=666390-001
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3DY1S03962
http://m.ebay.ca/itm?itemId=221496259906
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=390914163035
Through online stores, I could find that both are compatible with your laptop model - 666390-001 or 666391-001.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Visruth
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How Should My Heat Sink Gel Look?

Hey all,
Is this enough heat sink gel for my fan fixture to board connection?
I was having problems with overheating while gaming, so I took my fan fixture out and cleaned it out real well. Doing this required me to pull it away from the board, and I'm not sure if I should have cleaned the heat sink gel off and re-applied some new.
Here are some photos of how the physical connection looks. I simply put it back and place, and here I am typing to you now:
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2241.JPG
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2240.JPG
Thanks!
Ross
P.S., my warrenty already expired (I'm aware that I would have voided it).

lead_org's idea of useing a credit-card or similar tool to spread the compound is a good idea.
My idea of iceing on a cake was a bit vague I suppose. The point was an even thin layer, liberally applied to fill the neccesary imperfections, yet thin enough to not be wasteful.
This excerpt from the Wikipedia artical on "Thermal Grease" may enlighten things a bit for all in question. There's more for those technically interested on the Wikipedia web site; referrenced via the link above, but I think the notes below should suffice enough info for the average person.
Purpose
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heatsink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the irregular surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the irregular surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat (see Thermal conductivity) than, for example, aluminium, a common heatsink material.[2] Surface imperfections inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye.
As such, both the thermal conductivity and the "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
Both high power handling transistors, like those in a conventional audio amplifier, and high speed integrated circuits, such as the central processing unit (CPU) of a personal computer, generate sufficient heat to require the use of thermal grease in addition to the heatsink. High temperatures cause semiconductors to change their switching properties to the point of failure while CPU power dissipation overheating causes logic errors as heat raises electrical resistance on the multi-nanometer wide circuits of the CPU core.[3]
Applying and removing
Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Flat and smooth surfaces may use a small line method to apply material, and exposed heat-pipe surfaces will be best prepared with multiple lines.[4]
Because thermal grease's thermal conductivity is poorer than the metals they couple, it is important to use no more than is necessary to exclude air gaps. Excess grease separating the metal surfaces further will only degrade conductivity, increasing the chances of overheating. It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.
The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. There are also purpose made cleaners for removing and purifying the surfaces of the contacts.
HTH.....
Regards,
Visible_Spirit

Best fan for this heat sink?

best fan for this heat sink?
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-109-118&depa=0
ty in advanced

Snakexor,
Hard to tell.
It really depends on your tolerance to noise and/or your goals - OC, pimped out rig, etc.
I usually prefer something on the silent side. SilenX were good for me, pretty quiet. I have XP90 though, XP-120 doesn't fit neo2.
Check out these guys:
http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=HS-004
They usually know what they are talking about. There are 3 fans suggested with XP-120 there.
Hope this helps.....

Static/crackling freezes/shuts down Toshiba L300 (already cleaned fan/heat sink)

Was slightly intermittent but pretty much unable to use the computer at this point. The only clues I can give is that there seemed to be 2 errors about usb so wondering if that could cause the static build up that freezes the computer? One was on shut down and the other was after static started and it seemed to be trying to grab a driver (for usb I think) almost as though the device disappeared but then the laptop froze. It wasn't too long ago one of three ports wasn't working but they all work recently (don't recall which one quit for a bit).
Unfortunately I need to fix it myself due to finances. How do I physically disconnect all the usb ports to rule them out? I probably did this when I took out the motherboard to clean the fan/heat sink but I don't know for sure which connection(s) they were.
If I'm way off please provide other suggestions. I REALLY appreciate any help given.

first off, please provide the entire model number of your computer. It is printed on the bottom. do not provide s/n.
Do you have a backup of all your personal data? If not, I would say that should be your priority at this point.
After that has been dealt with, the next question is "did you make restore disks when computer was still working?"
Can you get into recovery menu (spamming f8 on start up). If so, try going into safe mode and restoring the computer to a restore point at a point in time before the problems started.
When you cleaned fan/heat sink, did you reseat the heatsink. If not, you may want to open it back up and reseat the heatsink (i.e., remove old thermal paste and reapply).
L305-S5955, T9300 Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, 60GB SSD, Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Wind Box DC100 change fan/heat sink

Hi,
I just bought the MSI Wind Box DC100 with the AMD E-450 APU, which is nice and all. But the fan on this thing is so insanely noisy, I have had a look inside (I know, warranty voided and all that) and everything looks very proprietary. I am looking to replace the fan, or the whole heat sink including fan if possible. Does anyone know of any solution to that? I have not found any standard coolers that has the same form factor as the one used in DC100.

I completely agree with the first post; the fan in the Wind Box DC100 is insanely noisy.
I bought this tiny PC for using as a mediacenter, but the fan is always running and has a high pitch that it's impossible to ignore.
Even though I've been buying MSI motherboards and PCs for years, this is surely a serious design flaw; it's a real pity, because the DC100 is a nice computer in all other aspects. I solved my problem by removing the original fan and "fitting" a huge external fan (9 cm in diameter) on the left side. It was a LONG work, because I had to cut the internal steel chassis, then the external plastic chassis, find the correct pinout and solder the small original custom connector to the new fan, remove the old fan and adapt a heatsink to take its place, route the cable and so on..
Several hours of work, but the result is completely satisfactory; the new fan is impossible to hear at maximum speed when you are 10 cm away; it's almost like having a fanless PC.
I used an Arctic F9 Pro PWM, which is 12 Volt, while the computer outputs 5 volt in that socket; it's not a problem, because in this way the fan goes at half the nominal speed (2000 rpm @ 12 volt ==> about 1000 rpm @ 5 volt), which is more than enough to keep the CPU about 10° C below the typical temperature I experienced using the old fan, while being completely silent.
At startup the DC100 outputs a message that the fan is not working (it stays for 3 seconds, then the system continues booting without a problem); that's probably because the rpm it gets from the PWM signal is way lower than that of the original fan; the rpm value returned is correct indeed, and I can monitor it in Windows.
This is the colour scheme I used to solder the old connector to the new fan:
Original fan Arctic F9 Pro PWM
Black GND Black
Yellow +5 Red
Green Sign Yellow
Blue PWM Blue
The new fan is really good; it's isolated from the computer where it is attached by using 4 rubber ties which don't propagate vibrations to the chassis. I bought it for 4,38 Euro, which would be a real bargain, if only slightly less work to fit it to the PC were needed.

Need a fan for smart touch hp IQ525

need a fan for HP Smart touch IQ 525, one without heat sink

Hello Ken1946:
Welcome to HP's forum. Here is the HP's computer parts store link. http://h20141.www2.hp.com/hpparts/default.aspx?mscssid=5C23B42DD7924AC695BCE2B23D69B63A&cc=US&lang=E... Use live chat its much faster and the operator will make sure you are ordering the correct fan for your Touchsmart. Least this department know what they are doing. You are welcome frrw.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems with their imac fans being extremely loud when running at slow speeds? When the computer heats up enough for the fans to run at higher speeds they quiet down. New HD fan was just installed.

I have an imac that I've had for a couple years. The fans have always been loud when running at the slower speeds. When the computer heats up enough for the fans to run at a higher speed the fans quiet down. I had installed SMC fan control after multiple attempts with Apple to get the fan issue resolved. That seemed to keep the fans quiet enough. I've never had a problem with overheating. Recently the fans were becoming loud again even running at the slightly higher speeds so I took it to my local Apple store and they replaced the hard drive fan. I got it back and it's now as loud or louder than ever!! And, now SMC fan control won't "stick." The fans will speed up, but then gradually go back to the lower "loud" levels. I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

Thanks jared,
I'm still dealing with this issue through Apple. Some time after I posted this, I contacted Apple again. They did start a case up for me, as I was experiencing the same behavior on two different machines, with two different versions of Windows.
So far it remains unsolved. I've logged iClouds for Windows on my desktop, which is brand new, then logged for awhile after completely uninstalling Norton Security Suite, depending on the Microsoft security for some time, and finally logged after I uninstalled iCloud for Windows, restarted, installed a clean download, and connected using a completely different test account, which Apple set up for me. None of this made any difference. Looking at the logs, it seems every 10 minutes, iCloudServices.exe creates a new TCP connection to confirm I'm using less than 5GB on iCloud, (which I am by a good margin, using less than 2GB), it seems this connection is not closed, and when the next iteration rolls around 10 minutes later, a new TCP connection is created. I come very close to having 6 TCP connections created per hour, until I restart my computer. This works out to... 6 x 24 = 144/day.
Perhaps the article you posted will shed some further light on this. I'm thinking seeing the state of the connection through netstats, at the least, could help.
For the last week, I've been putting a hold on further logging, as Apple wants me to create a new user account on one of my computers, install iCloud for Windows there, and log it running in the other account. This however basically means I cannot use my computer for a fair number of hours, and I've been busy enough with work the past week that I haven't the time or energy to afford to set this up and run it. I've had need of my computers too much for the past week.

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

I need an new Fan for my MacPro

Hi,
i need a new Fan for my MacPro only the Fan because with the ball-bearing its something wrong when it's slow rotage (about 500rpm) it makes .klack*..klack...
I dont won't to send the Mac away for two Weeks only for replace the Fan.
(i don't have two)
I think i have warranty beacuse i have bogth it on Nov 10, 2006.
It's possible that Apple send me only the Fan? It's that behind Memory expansion Slots.
It will be cheaper and easyer for both sides.
Message was edited by: Zeljko

my only concern is that unless they inspect it themselves, i don't think they'd be willing to just send you a new one, because they don't know that you actually need one. I think they'd be suspicious, possibly thinking that you just want to sell the fan to someone else. However, they may work with you on this. I suggest you call Apple.

My ical is not populating after i reinstalled my operating system - my Outlook 2011 is ok but I now want to sink my iphone 4 with my outlook and i presume i need ical to be populated for this

My ical is not populating after i reinstalled my operating system - my Outlook 2011 is ok but I now want to sink my iphone 4 with my outlook and i presume i need ical to be populated for this

Generally this is a sign that the iPhone had previously been
hacked/modified/jailbroken and the update relocked it to the
original wireless carrier. If this is the case, only that wireless
carrier can unlock your iPhone. You must contact them to see
if they offer unlocking and if you qualify.
Where did you acquire this iPhone?
What wireless carrier did you use before this problem?
Does the app Cydia appear on your iPhone?
What does it say when you look at Settings=>General=>About=>Carrier?

I need a heat sink/fan for p7-1254

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