I Need a way to test computer Power Supply

Im running a 2005 Dell XPS
Intel Pentium 4 3.4GHz
I get a BSOD (Blue Screen of DEATH) every once in awhile. Mostly at startup.
The code seems to be something with hard drives.
Now being an old maching and adding 2 more drives for a total of 3 i had to us splitters to power everything.
I also have a Nvidia 9800GT card with 1024MB RAM with 2 six power ran to it also.
I have looked on the outside of my case but cant see what my PSU power is.
I know I could open it up but was wondering if there was any software kinda like CPU-Z that could read what is inside my computer ?
Maybe something that could add up all that is inside and see how much is being used ?
I will be building a new i7 soon but for now this is what I have.
I ran the PPBM4 test and think im going to take over the LAST spot.
Here are the results:
Powered by DESIGN,   Personal or Computer ID
DELL, Computer Manufacturer
XPS,   Computer Model
329.6, secs Total Benchmark Time
54, secs AVI Encoding Time
179.6, secs MPEG Elapsed Time
96, secs Rendering Time
Intel,    CPU Manufacturer
Pentium 4 550,    CPU Model
3.4,    GHz CPU speed
1,    Number of CPU chips
1,    Total Number of Cores
3,    GB RAM
4.2.1,    APP Version PPBM4 DV
XP 32,    OSVersion
SATA,    OS Disk Interface
1000,    GB OS Disk Capacity
7200,    OS Disk Speed
SATA,    Project Disk Interface
500,    GB Project Disk Capacity
7200,    Project Disk Speed
750,    Preview Disk Interface
500,    GB Preview Disk Capacity
7200,    Preview Disk Speed
SATA,    Output Disk Interface
500,    GB Output Disk Capacity
7200,    Output Disk Speed
Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT,    Graphics Board
This test really shows how slow my computer is,    Comment
ENjoy: GLenn

Glenn:
On most motherboards I've owned there is a Hardware/Health area of the BIOS where voltage problems are indicated. The power supply is one of the most neglected pieces of hardware on a computer.
There was a time when Dell used power supplies on their computers that had the positive and negative leads that connect to the motherboard reversed. Of course the motherboard was designed to accept this reverse setup. This pissed a lot of people off, because a standard replacement power supply would blow out the board. I don't know when Dell discontinued this practice, but you should check your Dell model before replacing the power supply.
I recommend you find your power supply model# and then use one of the online power supply wattage calculators to see if your power supply is supplying enough wattage. I believe newegg.com has one of these calculators.

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I have never heard that rumor, a volt is a volt, an watt is a watt.
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Two internal drives should not be a concern for heat, but the DIGI and video cards could be taxing heatwise and also taxing the power supply just a tad..
I don't have any recommendations for a PCI slot cooling fan - they're pretty generic items. When shopping, look for one with the highest CFM airflow and lowest dB (noise) rating you can find. This is a balancing act, as higher CFM ratings usually mean it's going to make more noise. Here's one from Antec at ZipZoomFly to give you an idea. Cracking the case door open isn't a good idea, as it negates the designed airflow characteristics and unless you provide additional airflow to the components, ad may actually make it run hotter than with the door closed.
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1. Product Name and Number:
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2. Operating System installed (if applicable):
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3. Error message (if any):
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1) The laptop works perfectly fine using the battery.
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4) No chaging light turns on when pluged into AC.
5) When the battery is pluged into the battery slot on the laptop, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns off.
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Like many who have experienced the failure, the loud cap gun like sound when the PS failed was a sound I didn't want to hear.
Because this system is the workhorse of my business it was imperitve that we ether got it back up and running or replace it. After a quick call to Apple, even though the system is out of warrenty, I realized this was going to be an in house repair, one because of the cost invloved, and two because of our time frame.
My thought was how bad can a power supply replacement be? We replace them all the time on our Web Servers and other Linux based systems.
To those of you that have done this G5 repair I'm sure you are snickering about this time.
We were able to locate a new power supply and had it over nighted. To those of you ready to tackle the job here is our experience:
1. Remove the fans, both the front and rear.
2. Pop off the covers on the processor heat sinks so you can get to the allen head screws that hold the processors in place. ( Yes you have to pull the processors to remove the power supply) Make sure you have a 2.5mm allen head driver with at least a 5.5" shank so you reach the screws that hold the processor in place.
3. Mark the processors, A or B, top or bottom, you want them going back in the same slots.
4. Once you have loosened the screws (leave them in the posts, no need to pull them out) pull each processor straight up. Don't wiggle them or rock them, you don't want to bend any pins.
5. If you have the lower RAM slots filled I would pull the RAM, you'll need the room to get the Power Supply cover out of the way. Again be sure to mark the modules so there is no mismatch.
6. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the PS cover in place. I found that if you lift the front of the plate up and then slide it to the front, it clears the case. It IS tight to remove this cover, be careful not to jam it against the logic board. I also found its flexable so I could torque it a little from the middle to pull it out.
7. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the case, they hold the PS in place.
8. Remove the 3 connections from the logic board.
9. I found that with the case laying on its side, I tipped the power supply up horzontialy towards the top on the case, and then it lifted stratgit out.
10. Pop the new in the samew way the old one came out, and make the connections to the logic board. The front connection is a pain because the pig tail isn't all that long, so you end up doint it with one hand.
11. Reinstall the 4 screws on the bottom of the case, and reinstalled the PS cover using 2 screws.
12. Put you processors back in place, first the top and then the bottom, be careful here, you don't want to bend any pins, line up the posts and push straight in, you'll feel it seat itself. Tighten up the screws. Don't overtighten these they need to be snug.
13. Replace the ram, and the top covers for the heat sink and your fans.
At this point you should be all set, replace the dust covers close up the case and fire it up and all should be well.
We of course cleaned up the case before replacing the PS and we DID run into a problem with the top processor not seating properly. When the machine booted we got to a gray screen and that was it. I suspected a processor wasn't seating properly and when I pulled the top processor I found a piece of dust between the pins. Of course when I removed the dust I bent a pin, and spent the next 20 minutes realigning it it with a safety pin. I know bad idea but I was desparate. We got incredibly lucky with the alignmnet and the machine booted and has been running like the bear it is.
We have built and service a lot of machines over the years, and I have to tell you pulling processors to change a PS just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I also have to take issue with the unavailability of information from Apple. I KNOW they want you to use their services but not all of us are in the position to lay out 250 for a PS and another 300 for labor and wait 10 days:)
I was in touch with a couple of people I know that stated when they pull the PS they also pull the logic board. I didn't find that to be necessary in our situation.
Like always when you open the case take the necessary precautions with static discharge and electrical hazards.
Hope this helps somebody out there, I know there wasn't a whole lot of info I found for the task in detail.
G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

You really need to call Apple and ask about your particular machine. Sometimes Apple will still honor the extended warranty if it applies, even if you're beyond the expiration, and your machine might fit a narrow set of circumstances that doesn't apply to everybody else.

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