I need advice on a CCK purchase

I am looking to purchase a camera connection kit to use with my Nikon D5100 DSLR. I have the new iPad.
My Nikon can connect via cable or it also has an sd card.
My issue is that every time I look at reviews of the various accessories especially the CCKs there are complaints that iOS 5.1 won't support the device. I don't know what to do. I bought an iPad so that i could use it to immediately review photos in the field and so that I didn't have to purchase and wrangle multiple memory cards.
Does anyone have a suggestion? Are ther workarounds to the error messages that the iPad will throw or are there certain methods that have to be used in order for the iPad to be compatible with CCKs?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you
Salvatore

Some important points to consider:
You're going to have a real memory space problem using the iPad as you propose. Shooting in RAW + JPG mode means you are going to use up a lot of memory. Fast. My Canon 7D produces RAW files that are about 15-18 MB each, so even with my 64GB iPad2, the memory gets filled up really quickly. Luckily, your camera uses SD cards, which is good because the CCK accepts SD cards. Someone else may know for sure, but I think you may be able to do selective importation using the CCK, e.g., import only the JPG versions and not the RAW image files. This will save you space. However, you will still be facing the problem of what to do with the RAW images on your card.
I've been thinking about how to use the iPad as a photographic backup device in the field since the iPad2 came out. I've basically given up because the memory is really too small to be useful in storing photos, especially if you go on a trip of more than 3-4 days. I typically shoot 300-4000 RAW images in a week's vacation, and there is no way my iPad can store all of it. Instead, my approach is to use a portable photoviewer, like the Hyperdrive Colorspace or my Epson P-5000, or take my MacBook Air and a 500GB portable hard drive.

Similar Messages

Need advice on Wireless Router purchase.

I need some quick advice on purchase of a wireless router. I will be also needing to use a network switch to increase the available # of wired ports, as we currently have four wired devices (3 computers, one newish iMac and two older Macs, and a blue ray player, and we will be adding a Wi console to the wired network soon too). The wireless is mostly for a year old laptop. We are currently using a 5 year old at least Linksys wired router. Security is not an issue as far as others sneaking in to the network, I think, as my nearest neighbor is maybe a mile away (pretty rural here).
Would it be best to buy an Airport Extreme base station, or can I do better, and/or save some money with another router?
Thanks

I will likely connect our printers either via an ethernet cable or via USB.
For reference, the AirPort Extreme can share a printer connected to it by USB. It can also work with printers attached to one of its Ethernet ports. However, for the latter, the printer would need to be network-ready (meaning it has a built-in feature for sharing.)
As for 2.4 and 5 GHz radio bands, I don't know the difference.
The most important thing about bands is how they compare on speed vs. distance. The higher the frequency, the higher the potential speed, but at the cost of distance ... and vice versa for the lower frequency band.
Using the AirPort Extreme as an example, with a wireless client (capable of accessing either band), it will experience the best speed-related performance close (within the same room) on the 5 GHz but will most likely only connect on the 2.4 GHz band when in another room.
Also, I am concerned about firewall protection, from pinging or whatever, but I lack technical knowledge of it. I essentially would like our home network to be secure from incoming pings or attacks.
The AirPorts are very easy to set up. They pretty much run right out of the box. They offer very good security but they are not "commercial-grade" ... meaning they offer only a certain level of protection. However; note that increased protection typically comes with more complexity and maybe more difficult to configure.

Need advice on what to purchase:FCE,iMovie09,Soundtrack,Garageband.

Deciding best purchases.I am attracted to moving up, seeking a better visual experience for editing. Looking at Final Cut express, Soundtrack, Garageband, ilife09 with iMovie09. The more I read the more confusing it is. I am often lining up educational audio to video for hiqual pro product (voiceover mixed with 1 track of music-usually only 2 track audio). I am experienced somewhat in Audacity. I might need noise clean later. With multi versions out there and changes to stuff (this dropped this added) what should I do. This all started because I was told I should/could be using garageband instead of Audacity and then importing my iMovie06 into it. But then I can't export it back as project tro iMovie06 I think. I was told move up to iMovie09 since FCE is too complicated for now. But it appears FCE allows visual tie in of audio and video but then I don't know what version of FCE to get (Soundtrack was dropped form latest version FCE). Do I still need to use garageband with FCE for audio editing?

+" ... Do I still need to use garageband with FCE for audio editing? ..."+
It depends on what you need to do. Audio can be edited in FCE, which includes a good set of audio filters & effects. I've done some pretty extensive audio editing in FCE and even when I did have SoundTrack I never used it. If you're adding voiceovers or additional audio tracks then I'd say FCE can do what you need and you don't need an external audio editor. (Except perhaps for sound cleaning, for which I suggest SoundSoap.)
Overall, I'd suggest spelling out exactly what kind of video & audio editing you think you need or want to do. Then with those requirements you can figure out which software is best suited to your needs.

I need advice after purchasing a MacBook Pro in the USA for use in the UK.

Hello all out there,
I bought a 13 inch MacBook Pro in the USA last week and brought it back with me to the UK. I had been given an Apple World Adapter kit by the gentleman in the apple store, however I realised today that it isn't for the MacBook Pro and is only for iPads, iphones and ipods. This means that despite paying around $40, I am stuck. I need advice as to how to charge the laptop in the UK now? Is there an adapter for this or can I use any ordinary USA to UK adapter and stick it to the one I have from the USA?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Zainab

AFAIK, the World Adapter kit has a replacement PLUG for the power brick. What you need is just something that can go into your country's wall socket, as the power brick itself is universal and can work from 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz.
In other words, you ARE aware that the power brick has removable plugs on the AC end, right?

Need advice on video software.

Need advice on video software.
I currently use adobe elements 3 and have done so for a few years now with no problems. my os is XP and my system is a couple of years old, but we do have a brand new win7 machine in the house.
I am currently look at Cyberlink PowerDirector 8 Ultra OR Adobe Premiere Elements 8. Reviews for both softwares seem very good BUT, when I dig deeper into user reviews instead of editor reviews do I find problems.
Major problems with program crashing all over the place, at start up etc, and it is still not getting along with any win7 machine? Major problems with drivers. Honestly, I do not want to have to jump through dozens of hoops to get any software to run. After I pay for it, it should run, period.
Has anyone else here used both softwares and can you give an honest opinion of each?
I am also asking these same questions on the cyberlink site.
I would like to upgrade my video software to take advantage of the new features that are coming out but I really don't want a big headache trying to run one or the other. To be fair, when I bought adobe elements 3 I had also bought pinnacle, which has gathered dust since my first week with it, which is why elements was purchased. That was money wasted and I do not wish to repeat this. I would like to go with Premiere Elements 8 but remain very unsure.

If your newer machine is Win7 64-bit, it might be worth waiting for SP-1 to be issued, and then hope that 64-bit drivers are fully included. The 64-bit drivers now seem t be an issue at this point, and that will affect any NLE program.
Also, and regardless of which particular program you choose, optimizing your computer, the OS, the hardware, and the resources management, will go a very long way to insuring success. Few programs can tax a computer, as an NLE can - any NLE. Video and Audio editing will stress your system, like almost nothing else can, except for heavy-duty CAD, or 3D work, though those are usually done only on specialized, optimized computers, designed just for those applications.
Not the specific advice that you seek, but it's the best that I can do.
Good luck,
Hunt

Major Issues with installing 4tb internal. Really need advice please

In the process of a long needed upgrade to my 2010 Mac Pro Quad core 2.8 and have run into a serious headache that I really need advice on so I can get back to work. I've already spent 2 days dealing with all of this...
Just did a new SSD install and Migration which went fine but I'm also updating the rest of the internal drives. My main (non boot) drive was being upgraded from a Seagate Barracuda 3tb to a 4th Deskstar NAS (it was showing as compatible with my desktop, see links below). My 3tb ran fine for years but now due to it being heavily used I want to switch to a new drive and I can also use a bit more space.
The issue I'm running into is that initially on boot, my system was telling me it couldn't recognize the disk and it wasn't even showing up in Disk Utility. I had to purchase a SATA USB 3 kit to attach it as an external to get it to show which worked without problem. With the USB kit I was then able to partition it (GUID, Mac OS extended journaled) and format it properly. After reinserting the drive into my tower as an internal it failed to show again. After a few attempts of restarts and trying various bays it popped up but showed as a non formatted drive and I was told again that the system didn't recognise it. I was then given the option to initialise and was then actually able to then format and partition it though Disk Utility while it was installed as an internal.
Figured that was problem solved but when I went to check the drive and getting ready to transfer files over I noticed that Disk Utility was only allowing the First Aid and Partition options but not Erase, RAID, Restore which I'd never seen before. I then also noticed that none of the drive connection info was in the same format nor will it even provide drive bay info, connection info or read/write status (See screen shots). This is what I can't figure out and really need to clarify before I put full trust into using this drive.
Any info would be greatly appreciated...
Deskstar 4tb internal info which is installed in Bay 2
3tb Seagate which I trying to retire and transfer from.
Here are the weblinks to the Deskstar 4tb drive and the compatibility list but I support isn't allowing me to add direct links so add the www. before hand.
(Drive - eshop.macsales.com/item/HGST/0S03664/) (compatibility list - eshop.macsales.com/Descriptions/specs/Framework.cfm?page=macpromid2010.html).

What OSX version?
Disk Utility in later versions of ML and I think Mavericks have problems formatting with 4 TB internal drives.
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1661024
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/112266/why-doesnt-my-mac-pro-see-my-new -4tb-sata-drive

Syncing iPod to new user account-need advice

Hey All! I set up a new user account for my friend on my imac, so he will want to sync his iPod Touch to iTunes, iPhoto, iCal, etc. in his new user account. I know there are plenty of freeware and shareware apps to get his music from the iPod into iTunes, but need advice concerning everything else oh his iPod.
I know I'll first get that pop up window that says his iPod is synced to another computer, and that I use "cancel" rather than "sync and erase". After doing that, I guess I use one of the shareware apps to get the music transferred over.
Now, after that, if I do a regular sync, will iTunes transfer his apps that are on the iPod?
Do I need to open iPhoto and download the photos on his iPod into iPhotot before doing a sync?
What about text messages? Will they remain in tact?
I don't think he uses the calendar on his iPod so no worries there....
What about Playlists that he has on the iPod? Will just the music transfer with the shareware apps or playlists also?
Will Notes be saved?
Thanks for your help. Don't wanna screw up his iPod by setting up this user account for him.

Apps are tied to the ID I assume the new account is just on the iMac and not a new iTunes account?
Yes, you can import photos into iPhoto the same as you would off any camera.
You would need to transfer purchased content (like apps). You can't do that via sync as it's a new computer and all content will be erased as you are aware.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1848
What happened to your friends computer? Was there no backup?

Ready to take it one higher ...need advice on best way to get more audio in

Nearly ready to upgrade to LP7...need advice on more gear.
Longtime Logic user, my old rig running with an Audiowerk 8 card (dont laugh too hard please, its worked great for years! ).
Now, after purchasing a MBP and LE7 ... how best to upgrade even further, to be able to record say 4-8 tracks (live instrument) at a time, into the optical or Firewire ports. I have an external 750Gb FW drive.
Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
Unfortunately, all of the boxes and gizmos Ive looked at so far seem to duplicate functions I already have, esp mic preamps (dont need any more of those !). I prefer 19" rackmount devices as they work well with portability, and fit into my SKB rig easily.
TIA

Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the
Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the
optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's
a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
if you really want to use the pre's on your mackie, and it has multiple bus/aux outputs which I presume it does, then you can easily set up a device such as the 828 to take all your input channels from the mackie, and then to run a bunch of return pairs back out to it.
depending on your budget there are prob a few others for you to look at. RME and metric halo always get rave reviews from users, but are pricier. also the focusrite sapphire might be worth a look, as well as the apogee ensemble.
also I just noticed you are using logic express, not pro. so there may be some limitations on the number of simultaneous inputs and outputs that I'm unaware of.

Would love some advice on a new purchase . . .

I want to buy a new laptop. I currently have a 2001 PowerPC G4. 500MHz with 640 RAM. I'd love some advice on a new purchase. Sorry if this gets long-winded.
These are my desires:
(1) A serious upgrade in speed, into the Giga world. I work for a law firm, and I do a lot of research. Lexis-nexis seems to put a serious strain on my G4. I see some of the new models are over 2 gigs. I've read that 2 gigs is not 4x faster than 500Mhz, in the linear sense. Will going from 500 to 2 gigs nevertheless be substantially noticeable.
(2) More memory. In the near future, my employer is going to give its attorneys outside access to our email system and hard drive files. It would seem to me that I'll need to clear as much memory to make room for that. It look like most of the new models have a max space of 2 Ghz. That's more than 3 times the space i currently have. I'd like to think more memory will make my OS run more smoothly. If that's true, I wouldn't mind spending more money to get the biggest memory chip.
(3) I do a lot of word processing. I grew up on Macs (California girl), but I gave up on AppleWorks a couple years ago. I hated it. I purchased Word:Mac and have been very happy with it. Nevertheless, Word:Mac slows me down. Again, that seems to be consistent with the whole need for more speed and memory.
(4) I want wireless connectivity. I assume new Macs come with this capability (Airport?), but I'm not sure if I'll need an upgrade during the buying process. And I really have no idea how buying the airport hardware/software impacts my need what I have to but from my ISP (my cable company).
(5) The 15 inch seems like a nicer upgrade; 17 would be nicer, but I don't need it.
(6) I really don't want to spend more than $2500.00. But I'll spend a little more if it makes sense.
(7) Protection. I've read that Tiger is substantially safer than other OS's. That said, if someone could infect/corrupt/whatever my files (or access client files), that would be a disaster. I've read that Norton slows your down and is unecessary with Tiger.
There's a lot of pretty cool things Mac offers that I DON'T use. Like making movies or the isight stuff. I'm mainly a girl who is either writing, researching, emailing, or reading stuff online.
I'd love some advice. Some of the stuff I've read online has left me with too many questions.
Thanks!
Lindsay

(1) Comparing clock speeds isn't a good way to compare processors. That said, because of various architecture changes, the MBP is probably a solid 8-10 times faster than your G4 system.
(2) Definately max out the RAM. My advice is to get the stock, single 1GB stick from Apple, and then head over to Crucial and buy yourself another stick. It's fairly easy to install, and Apple gives you a step by step guide on the MBP manual. You could have Apple pop in another stick, but it'll cost you more than double what you'll pay by going with Crucial ($300 vs. $135)
(3) Office:Mac will work just fine on your MBP. It might be a little slow to open when you first boot up (6, 7, 8 bounces on the dock), but after that everything starts right up. It should make too much of a difference, but since Office is running through emulation the 2GB will help.
(4) The wirless in an MBP is the same as in every other computer: 802.11B/G compatible. It'll work with any router out there; no need to go out and buy an AirPort router from Apple if you already have one. Then again, at $200, I don't know that I'd ever buy an AirPort. A plain old Linksys for $50 should work just fine...assuming you even need a router.
(5) You said it. The 15" is nice, but the 17" is nicer. The 17" has a few other goodies (a few extra USB ports, a FireWire800 port, an extra FireWire400 port), but unless you have a ton of devices you're plugging in, or an external hard drive you're constantly reading from/writing to, they're a non-factor. If you wanna save some money, go with the 15"; if you wanna live a little, the 17".
(6) On the laptop itself, that shouldn't be a problem. You can get yourself a nice 15" with AppleCare for right around what you're looking to spend. Of course, depending on what addons and software you get (MS Office, a bag, mouse, etc.), you're probably looking at closer to $3000.
(7) You hit it right on the head. There's really not much you need to do. Turn on the firewall built into OS X; make sure your router is secure (MAC address filtering, strong pass code, WPA2 encryption); and make sure you change your passwords every so often (every month or two should be more than sufficient). While it's not entirely necessary, based on your line of work it, it would probably be wise to get yourself an external hard drive (HDD) onto which you can backup your files. A MyBook from Western Digital wouldn't be a bad idea. If you go with the 17", get the Pro edition for higher speeds with FireWire 800. If you go with the 15", get the Premium. And, to save some money, buy through Amazon.com
Some suggestions on what you should get to compliment your MBP:
The first is a nice bag to carry it in. I personally like Marware's black italian leather CEO Milano. But if you're not into leather or don't want to spend that kind of money (why money would be a problem when buying a $3000 computer, I don't know...), then check out Brenthaven. They have some quality bags with plenty of storage for all your gadgets and whatnot.
The second thing you needs is AppleCare. While I personally find it ridiculous that a person who just bought a $3000 computer doesn't get at least a years worth of tech support, AppleCare is well worth the money. It extends your tech over the phone tech support from 90 days to 3 years and your warranty from 1 year to 3.
Apple's tech support is second to none (and they actually speak english ), and the extended warranty is a must. The best part of all is being able to take your computer to the Genius Bar in an Apple store. There's nothing quite like being able to walk into a store and have a living, breathing person help you. No crappy music while your put on hold, no having follow directions over a phone... you just give your Mac to a genius and let them do all the work.
If for whatever reason you're unsure about getting AppleCare, you don't have to buy it right now. So long as you buy it and register your MBP within the initial warranty period (1 year), you're all set. So, feel free to try out AppleCare under your current warranty before you drop $300 or so on the extended AppleCare.
The final thing that I recommend you buy, especially if you plan on having this baby on your lap, is a cooler. That is, a laptop tray with fans to provide some extra cooling capacity. Your MBP (or any other laptop/portable, for that matter) sits on top of, or attaches to, the cooler and provides power to the fans via USB cable. I don't know that you'll be getting any burns if you use this thing on your lap without a cooler (or any kind of tray, for that matter), but it certainly isn't comfortable.
As for particular brands/models, I can't really give you one. These things are put out by a lot of smaller companies, and come in so many different variations that it's hard to keep track of. For example, the website I bought mine from no longer exists and I've yet to see anything else that quite resembles what I have. That's not to say these things aren't quality, but don't go looking for something from a name brand company. All I can say to do is search on Google or Froogle for laptop cooler. On the bright side, you'll find plenty of coolers to choose from and you'll have something totally unique.
Well, that covers the three musts. There other various things that you may or may not like...maybe a Marware protection pack or a mouse...but it's really a matter of preference from here on out. Personally, the only other thing I'm getting is a mouse. I've never been a fan of trackpads. I much prefer using a mouse, especially if I'm at a desk writing a paper or doing research. But that's just me...
Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck, and enjoy your MBP!
MBP: 17" Matte; 7200rpm 100GB HDD; 2gig RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

Need Advice: Re-Ripping ALL of my CDs using ALAC/Apple Lossless

I need advice from some experienced users (having searched for answers for a couple of days and not finding a comprehensive solution). I want to "upgrade" my iTunes library (95% of which is from my CD collection) from ACC (the default iTunes file format) to ALAC (lossless format). I realize that music purchased from the iTunes store will remain in ACC format, but I am using this opportunity to "archive" or "digitize" my CD collection. I have some, but not a lot, of non-critical tags, album art, etc. set up with my current library. I will be saving all of the music files in a new folder on a single hard disc on my network (with backup). I use iTunes Match. I have Windows PCs, Macbook Pro (OSX), iPhone, iPad, iPod. Given these factors, I am seeking recommendations:
Does it make sense to "start over" and create a brand new iTunes library?
(this would certainly give me time to complete my project while still using my current iTunes library)
If yes, what do I need to do in order to "activate" the new library once it is complete in order to reset iTunes Match and all of the other devices using my iTunes library? What complications can I anticipate?
If no, what is the best way to replace the existing albums in my iTunes library with the new ALAC files? Do I simply insert the CD and import it with my new settings? Will iTunes take care of the rest (saving the new file, deleting the old format, matching tags, etc.)? What complications can I anticipate?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of allowing iTunes to "Keep iTunes Media folder organized" and "Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library?"
Any other suggestions, warning, smart alec remarks?
I know there are a lot of questions bound up in this post, but if you have converted your iTunes music collection to one of the lossless or uncompressed formats, I would love to learn from your experience (and am guessing others will as well). Thanks!

In most cases you should be able to re-import your CDs to the existing library - iTunes will automatically replace your media files and retain all previously added metadata. This does depend on the library being the same one as you originally imported the CDs in AAC format (i.e., the same computer or the result of a complete library migration). You should experiment with a couple of CDs to verify this behavior - I've done this successfully to "update" some of the older content of my library which had been imported as 128kbps AAC to 256kbps..
Obviously this approach will put your media into the existing library media folders, which is going to be the simplest approach. If you subsequently want to move the library to a different drive, see turingtest2's user tip on Make a split library portable. If you're concerned about running out of disc space on the drive that currently hosts your library, you could follow these guidelines to move the library to a second, larger drive before starting to re-import using ALAC.
This is the approach I'd recommend, though there are a couple of other possibilities:
Create a new, empty library on the second drive by holding down SHIFT as you start iTunes; when you see this prompt:
click on Create Library..., navigate to the second drive and create the library there (best approach is to create this in a new iTunes folder in the root of the drive. This will guarantee "clean" imports but you'll not be able to re-use any metadata, artwork, playlists, etc. contained in your current library. To switch between libraries, SHIFT-start and use the Choose Library... option to select the library you want to be active.
On the second drive, create a folder called iTunes in the root and a folder called iTunes Media inside this. Then, with iTunes running against your current library, select Edit > Preferences > Advanced, change the iTunes Media folder location to the one you've just created (i.e., X:\iTunes\iTunes Media, if the second drive is "X:". Also make sure that the Keep iTunes Media folder organized and Copy files to iTunes Media folder... options are checked. When you re-import your CDs the media files should be placed on the second drive ... note, though, that I've not verified that this approach will work - in theory it should do but you should definitely test with one or two CDs before going any further. This approach will result in a "split" library where your library database is on the C: drive and the media divided between drives (since your iTunes Store purchases will still be on C:). This is generally not a good idea (if for no other reason than making creation and maintenance of a backup of your library more difficult). Again, tt2's notes on Make a split library portable describe how to bring the library into a consistent, well-formed layout.

Newbie needs advice on audio interface

just purchased iMac 27" with Lion...have nice sounding Taylor 810 accoustic...want to record guitar and vocals, strictly a hobby. need advice on audio interfaces...willing to spend $600 on the Duet 2.0 if it's as good as the web reviews say it is but???... will I hear a difference with a $250 interface like a presonus firestudio mobile (vs. $600 Duet 2)?... want something that sounds great and works well with GB/Lion....thanks

To be honest, if using mics, you will get more out of picking up the FireStudio Mobile and spending the difference (or more) on treating the room you will be recording and mixing in.
As far as Lion is concerned, just check with Presonus about compatibility.
If you pick up the FireStudioMobile, it ships with Studio One Artist. It has a better comping feature than GB does...
TBH, if this is strictly hobby stuff, by the time you treat your recording environment, pick up decent mics, a second hard drive, stands, cables, monitors, headphones, a handful of plugins, another DAW or two, furniture etc, etc, you will not be too concerned about ownng the FireStudio... Its a great little unit that is very reliable and has a solid build.

Need advice about certification: do J2SE 1.4 or wait for 1.5 to go out?

I need advice here! I am studing for Java Programmer certification (310-035) and I know now that the certification does not have any expiration date, instead it's version based. So, if I get now a J2SE 1.4 certification, soon it will be outdated... I guess!
Does anyone know or have any ideia of WHEN java 1.5 sdk will be avaliable, and anyone can tell me how long it will take for a new 1.5 programmer certification be avaliable for general public?

Do both. 1.5 is far enough away that you do not want to wait for it.
And besides, 1.5 has enough new stuff in it that you'll want to recertify anyway.

Need advice on on a Mac Pro 1,1 Media Center

I currently have a 2009 Mac Mini running as my home media center, but I recently came by a FREE Mac Pro 1,1 and have decided to repurpose it as my media center so I can migrate my Mac Mini to my bedroom TV where it will live an easy life doing nothing but run Plex Home Theater, Netflix, and EyeTV. This machine falling into my lap was also quite timely because my 4-bay Drobo is running low on available expansion and another Drobo isn't in the budget at the moment.
This vintage mac pro is running Lion 10.7.5, has 1 old and crusty 500GB hardrive, dual x5160 processors, 4GB RAM (one stick i'm pretty sure is toast judging by the red light and the kernel panics), and the standard NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT 256MB graphics card. It will be used primarily for the following: network storage for iphoto and itunes libraries, streaming video, Plex Media Server & Plex Home Theater, and Handbrake encoding. I also have a goal of safety of data for my movies, photos and music as this machine will supplement my current Drobo storage.
My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
Here is where I need advice because I am not very familiar with RAID and the differences between hardware or software raid. Am I better off getting four drives of the same size and setting them up as RAID 5 (I think) using Apple's RAID utility or should I throw in three 1TB drives and then install a fourth 3TB or 4TB drive as a Time Machine backup for the other three?
Should I upgrade the OSX to the technically unsupported latest version? Or is it not worth the trouble for this application?
Also, is there any benefit to upgrading the graphics card to the ATI Radeon 5770? Would this yield an improved image quality? I am outputting to a Denon AV Reciever and subsequently to a 100" projection screen, if that makes a difference. I also noticed the 5770 has an HDMI port, wich would be nice, but not necessary since I can use a DVI converter and woud still need to use the optical audio out anyway.
Much obliged for any input

My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
PCIe cards that use or support SSD are not bootable until you get to 2008 (and that is limited too).
Green are not suited for any form of array unless say NAS and WD RED. Better option would be 3 x 2TB WD Blacks in a mirror, and too many people only use two drives, well 3 is much easier safer and works better. Might want to invest in www.SoftRAID.com product even.
Best price and quality, got my 1,1 with 8 x 2GB (ideal is 4 or 8 DIMMs)
2x2GB FBDIMM DDR2 667MHz @ $25
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
With price of 250GB SSD $155 I'd go with that or stick with $89 for 128GB .

When I try to download the latest version of itunes to my i phone, I get a message saying songs I have purchased on the phone need to be moved from "purchased" to a Library before continuing with the download. How do I do this?

When I try to download the latest version of itunes on my computer, which is tethered to my iphone, I get a message saying the music on my phone needs to be moved from "purchased" to a Library. I search and can't find instructions on how to do this. Please help!

Transfer Purchases = iTunes > File > Transfer Purchases
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848

I need advice on a CCK purchase

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for