I need to benchmark my iMac

I have a 24" 2.8 GHZ iMac. I need to bench mark it. It has an ATI Radeon graphics card. I am running Enemy Territory Quake Wars and I'm desperately wanting to bench mark it to figure out the frame rate.
Help!

Some of the basic test tools, such as the one linked to, below
only check the machine through use of tests in the utility; and
can't tell how fast some other application or game is running.
Intech SpeedTools:
http://eshop.macsales.com/Catalog_Item.cfm?ID=4528&Item=INTSPEED
X Bench: http://www.xbench.com/
Other tests can confirm javascript and things such as developers
of browsers would want to know; such as SunSpider 'javascript
benchmark testing' would provide; for example...
{ http://webkit.org/perf/sunspider-0.9/sunspider.html }
There should be others out there more akin to the type of tests
you are seeking, to find out how your computer performs.
Good luck & happy computing!
PS: you may check into the Intel iMac threads for more specific
information on your newer model flat panel computer; this is
primarily a discussion area for PowerPC G4 iMac models.
edited.

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I need to use my iMac to run some Windows software and was thinking of using Parallels Desktop 9 to help with this. Do you still have to partition your drive with Parallels and does this leave you open to viruses?

I need to use my iMac to run some Windows software not available for Mac and was thinking of obtaining Parrallels Desktop 9 to help with this. If I use Parrallels do you still have to partitian your drive and does this leave you open to viruses?

You do not have to partition your drive - Parallels creates a disk image which contains your Windows installation. You do have to exercise anti-virus measures in the Windows partition, although such malware cannot affect the Mac filesystem.
Matt

I need to connect my Imac 27'' (newest version) up to 3/4 monitors (all 40'' LCD tv's with VGA and HDMI connections) with extended display to all external screens, not duplicate images. Is this possible?

i need to connect my Imac 27'' (newest version) up to 3/4 monitors (all 40'' LCD tv's with VGA and HDMI connections) with extended display to all external screens, not duplicate images. Is this possible?

I would suggest you visit an Apple dealer, preferably an Apple Store if there's one in your city, and ask for assistance in determining what you need. The questions and issues you bring up are rather complex to address in a technical support forum and would be better addressed in person where you and the salesperson can ask questions back and forth to arrive at the optimal setup.
Regards.

Do I need to bring my iMac to one to one?

I have a one-to-one appointment coming up, and I'm not sure if I need to bring my 27" iMac with me. The workshop is for Final Cut, and some media in my projects is on the computer, not my external drive.

From what I know, you don't need to take the iMac. The workshop is done with one of the iMacs at the Apple Store. I would recommend you to copy your projects to an external drive and take it if you want to have them a look at the Apple Store

Do I need to defragment my iMac?

Hi Guys,
I have a question - do I need to defragment my iMac? I have noticed it is getting slower.
blueheron11

Well, I'm going to put a contrary view to others you have received here, blueheron.
Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.
Cheers
Rod

Do I need to calibrate my iMac screen

Do I need to calibrate my IMac 27inch screen, if so how?

If you are a home user, you don't need to calibrate your screen, as it's precalibrated. If you want to calibrate it, you can do it in System Preferences > Displays > Color > Calibrate

How much do I need to by an iMac 27inch

How much do I need to by an iMac 27inch ?

iMac - Buy iMac Desktop Computers - Apple Store (U.S.)

What software do i need to upgrade my iMac 10.6.8 to in order to use iCloud?

I recently joined iCloud and I need to make my iMac desktop compatible. I was told my the Apple store associate that I need Snow Leopard software and can purchase it online for $19.95. I did some research and am not sure if he gave me the correct answer. I want my personal desktop to sync with my personal new iPad air for work purposes.
Does anyone have the answer?
Also, when upgrading desktop software, do programs and files get wiped out or are they saved?

You do need Snow Leopard because it includes the app store application which you need to go further. However, according to your profile, you are already running Snow Leopard (10.6.8). If you have that, you can - depending on your Mac model - upgrade and pay for Lion or Mountain Lion or, the newest version: Mavericks which is free. However, you do need to check if your Mac meets the system requirements.
If this is your Mac:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac-core-2-duo-3.06-21-inch-al uminum-late-2009-specs.html
then you can install Mavericks.
Make sure you have a minimum of 4 GB RAM (more would be better).
Not sure why an Apple employee would tell you to buy Snow Leopard if you have it installed.

Hi, i need to upgrade my iMac 3.06 intel OS X 10.5.8 to OS X 10.8.5. how do i do it? Barry

Hi, i need to upgrade my iMac 3.06 intel OS X 10.5.8 to OS X 10.8.5. How do I do it? Finbar

Start by checking if you can run Snow Leopard:
Requirements for OS X 10.6 'Snow Leopard'
http://support.apple.com/kb/SP575
The OS 10.6 Snow Leopard install DVD is available for $19.99 from the Apple Store:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard
and in the UK:
http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard
but nobody knows for how long it will be available.
When you have installed it, run Software Update to download and install the latest updates for Snow Leopard to bring it up to 10.6.8, or download the combo update from here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399
Check via Software Update whether further updates are required.
You should now see the App Store icon in iTunes, and you now need to set up your account:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4479
To use iCloud you have to upgrade at least to Lion, but some functions are only available in Mountain Lion:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4759
You can also purchase the code to use to download Lion (Lion requires an Intel-based Mac with a Core 2 Duo, i3, i5, i7 or Xeon processor and 2GB of RAM, running the latest version of Snow Leopard), or you can purchase Mountain Lion from the App Store - if you can run that:
http://www.apple.com/osx/specs/

Hi. at the moment i am still using 10.5.8 version of MAC OS X. what do i need to upgrade my IMAC to the latest OS system? thanks

hi. at the moment i am still using 10.5.8 version of MAC OS X. what do i need to upgrade my IMAC to the latest OS system? thanks

System requirements
2 GB of RAM
8 GB of available hard disk or solid state storage
To upgrade from an old version of OS X, the computer must be running at least v10.6.8.[7]
The following models are officially supported:[7]
iMac (Mid 2007 or newer)
MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer)
MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer)
MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer)
Mac Mini (Early 2009 or newer)
Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer)
Xserve (Early 2009)
The following models support AirPlay Mirroring:
iMac (mid-2011 or newer)
Mac Mini (mid-2011 or newer)
MacBook Air (mid-2011 or newer)
MacBook Pro (early 2011 or newer)
The following models support AirDrop:
MacBook Pro (late 2008 or newer)
MacBook Air (late 2010 or newer)
MacBook (late 2008 or newer)
iMac (early 2009 or newer)
Mac Mini (mid-2010 or newer)
Mac Pro (early 2009 with AirPort Extreme card or newer)
Your Mac...
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac-core-2-duo-2.66-20-inch-al uminum-early-2009-specs.html
You have to call Apple to get 10.6 first somehow, as they removed it from the online store.

Why do i need to restart my imac everyday like ten times to get it to work, also the screen displays little digital squares.

Why do i need to restart my imac everyday like ten times to get it to work, also the screen displays little digital squares.

Hi Matt,
I purchased my imac in November of 2010 and below is a cut and past from Hardware overview. It has 1 TB hardrive, with 670 GB free. When i start up in the morning, it boots normal then freezes. Half the time i can get it to restart before it freezes, other half i have to power down then restart. At the same time throughout this process the little pixel squares show up sometimes in a single line or two aross the screen, then sometimes more random. After about 7 times of rebooting, everything runs fine for the day with no weird pixels. then i shut down at night, and start the porcess over in the morning. Thanks for your help!
iMac
Model Identifier:
iMac11,3
Processor Name:
Intel Core i5
Processor Speed:
2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors:
1
Total Number Of Cores:
4
L2 Cache (per core):
256 KB
L3 Cache:
8 MB
Memory:
4 GB
Processor Interconnect Speed:
4.8 GT/s
Boot ROM Version:
IM112.0057.B00
SMC Version (system):
1.59f2
Serial Number (system):
Hardware UUID:
AF510593-DDA2-513F-AE18-631B726F0BB1

HT1595 whwat app do I need to connect my Imac to my apple tv for general use

How do I connect my Imac to my Apple tv wirrelesly i tried using a trial version of Airparrot burt it did not have any sound, I have connected to I tunes to play videos and Films and it works fine, but i would like to connect to my tv for genneral use Do I need an app like airparrot if so what is the best app ?
I am using Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5 (11G63b)
Thanks Graham S.

Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
If this program doesn't work, open  > About this Mac and tell us the generation of your Mac. AirPlay Mirroring needs a Mid 2011 or newer iMac, so if your iMac is supported, open App Store and purchase Mountain Lion

Need help with my iMac ... it keeps freezing up on me no matter what I do.

Hello all,
I need help to figure out why my iMac keeps on freezing up on me. I used to have Norton SystemWorks installed but I recently uninstalled it because I found out it was poison to Mac OS X. I've used Memtest to check the memory in my iMac. The result of the test came up fine.
You can go to 'Cooling fans for iMac?' (one of my post) to read all of the solutions I have tries out. This post is the original post to try to fix the problem but it FAILED.
In the last week, I've backed up all of my data to my external hard drive. Then I totally erase my internal hard drive and made sure to zero out the drive. After, I proceeded to install Mac OS 9. I had some problems installing the system at first. I finally installed Mac OS 9 and upgraded it to the latest version of 9. Next, I tried to install Mac OS X 10.3 with difficulty. I then finally installed it. I notice during and after installing the both OSs, my iMac keep on freezing. After I installed Mac OS X 10.3, I updated the OS. And yes, while updating the OS, I've experience the same problem as before. I now have my system back to where it was before I did a fresh install of both Mac OS 9 and X.
You guest it, my iMac is still freezing up on me no matter what I do. Can someone please help me with this problem? Can he/she tell me what is going on with my iMac and how to fix it? All the help I can get would be appreciated. Thanks for you time and effort.
P.S. After trying all of the previous suggestions from other users, I came to an conclusion that one of the hardware in my iMac my be failing. I know for curtain it is NOT my memory. It my be something else inside my iMac.
iMac 500 MHz PowerPC G3 256 MB SDRAM 30 GB HD Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Rainbow -
I've read the thread you linked to above and the only thing I find missing in the saga is any mention of the PRAM battery. If it is depleted (and it would be getting close to depletion if it has never been replaced) it could be causing your problem.
Do you see any strangeness in the time or date displays? That would be a sure sign that the battery is dying. I haven't run into the problem of a bad battery causing constant freezing but it wouldn't hurt to check it out.
As far as temperature effects, the usual pattern of overheating would be a shutdown of the whole computer, a designed-in precaution.
Forgive the battery tutorial if you've already dealt with that possibility.
Schadow
FP iMac 800, 9.2.2/10.1.5; eMac 800, 9.2.2/10.4.6; iMac 266, 8.6 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

What do I need to make my iMac + xbox 360 hook up to my current router

I need to find a way to make my iMac wireless and don't know what would be best for my set up. I have cable broadband through a rca router, which then hooks up to my vonage phone device, which then connects to my linksys WRT150N which has an emachines pc through ethernet and a sony laptop wireless connected to it. I want the iMac, which is downstairs to be hooked up to the internet wirelessly if possible and my son also has a wireless adapter for his XBOX 360 that he wants to use as well. I know this sounds tres' complicated and I have given lots of information here but if anyone knows what I should get for this situation, I would be most appreciative! Airport of some sort? Third party stuff that's compatible? I am so confused!
Message was edited by: Samiskins

Achieving data rates of 54 Mbps requires that all users have an AirPort Extreme Card and connect to an AirPort Extreme Base Station. If a user of a Wi-Fi Certified 802.11b product joins the network, that user will get up to 11 Mbps and AirPort Extreme users will get less than 54 Mbps. Actual speed will vary based on range, connection rate, site conditions, size of network and other factors.
imac specification I am guessing your imac g4 is usb 2 and requires an airport extreme wireless card.
The xbox360 wireless adaptor should be able to connect to your router.
To enable the imac to stream photos, movies, music to xbox360 you'll need a piece of software called Connect360. you get that here: http://www.nullriver.com/products/connect360
I'll give you my network setup if yours fails.
Two Apple Extreme N routers, First router hardwired to cable modem and the "bridged" second apple router. The first router also has a HP laserjet 24/7 connected to its usb port and one more hardwire to a pc laptor downstairs(no wireless card in the piece of crap windows machine). Second router hard waired to Vonage and an Apple Express router which I set up to create its own network. The xbox360 upstairs wirelessly connects to the Apple Express. I also have apple TV wireless to first apple Extreme router. Everything works fine and network is extremely fast.

Lost a 2 hard drives, have 7 k photos on a touch that I need to load on IMAC with a new hard drive, how do I do it. Just never went from a Touch to iMac. I have the cable hooked up and then what, I don't want to mess up,my last chance to save 7k pics!

Lost my hard drive and also an Ipad, but have 7 k photos on a Touch that I need to load on fixed IMAC with a new hard drive, how do I do it. (There were more photos than the 7k, but they were saved on other drives, thank goodness). 7K pohotos on the Touch are no where else, must be saved! Just never went from a Touch to iMac. I have the cable hooked up and then what, I don't want to mess up,my last chance to save 7k pics! New Aperture and IPhoto on IMAC with no other photos loaded on the new hard drive yet.

I'd ask in the iTouch forum where there are more iTouch users there than here and they should know how to off load the photos. It might take a 3rd party app.
OT

I need to benchmark my iMac

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