I NEED TO LOCATE MY MACBOOK BRO ASAP
STOLEN MACBOOK
Done. Also set up firmware password with Apple so that when the thief or whoever he sells it to goes online the memory will be wiped. It was stolen two days ago and, so far, no one has tried to go online with my stolen Macbook Pro. What I would like to know if there a nationally available list of stolen Macs to which can add my Macbook Pro's serial number. This could help both potential buyers of used Macs and police to locate the thieves and maybe the stolen Mac.
Similar Messages
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Help needed on a new MacBook Pro asap :)
I have just purchased a brand new MacBook Pro.. Do I need to install any anti virus software on to it or is it already protected and therefore not needed?
Also, is there an equivalent to Microsoft Office (incl. Word, Excel, Powerpoint etc) that you can purchase/download for the MacBook Pro?
Thank youYou do not need any anti-virus software for a Mac.
But if you wished to have one installed, ClamXav is the one to get.
Install all system,security and applications updates released by Apple.
If you are used to Microsoft Office stick with Microsoft Office for Mac.
An equivalent to Microsoft Office would be iWorks from Apple. -
My old Macbook Pro (10.4) died and I need to locate from the HDD where Netscape mail data resides so I can import it onto my new laptop, any ideas where it is located? I have tried home/library/mail.
Might be in /Home/Library/Netscape/ or in /Home/Library/Applications Support/ folder.
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Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro?
Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro with retina display?
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
What is the best way to remotely lock/clear/locate a macbook pro or iphone 6 if they are lost or stolen?
macbook serial C02LG23EFH00
running latest OS
thanksHi
See here for remotely wiping and securing devices when stolen, you will need to use icloud with the find my mac/iphone feature
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2701 -
HT1519 Do I need to buy a new battery ASAP if the cycle count is way over limit?
My macbook OS X 10.6.8 (late 2007) is listed as having a maximum battery cycle of 300; my system reports 415 cycles and I have never calibrated. Do I need to buy a new battery ASAP? Would calibrating help?
A solid state drive or 'SSD' is a flash based storage drive used in newer Macs and PCs that give a significant speed increase as well as reduced power consumption due to not having any moving parts like a hard disc drive or 'HDD' s which work on spinning magnetic platters driven by a motor.
They are backwards compatible as they come in the same sizes as previous HDDs (physical size) and connect to the same Sata interface, so are simply a swappable item. Smaller SSD storage sizes are not too badly priced these days, however the larger drives are still fairly expensive. -
I need to upgrade my macbook ram and hard drive pls help
Hi all,
I need to upgrade my macbook's RAM and hard drive as after 3 yrs of use it is showing signs of aging.
I am novice in hardware stuff. I am planning on doing it entirely by myself and on tight budget will need to compare the prices across sellers and buy a suitable peice of kit. Please help
Questions:
1 - How to find out which RAm do I need to buy and what is the maximum I can go on my macbook?
2 - How to find which hard drive to buy and what is the maximum my macbook will support?
3 - Can I buy the SSD drive instead of SATA for this macbook?
Some of the specs are listed below:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: MacBook
Model Identifier: MacBook5,2
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MB52.0088.B05
SMC Version (system): 1.38f5
MANY THANKS FOR READING AND REPLYING TO MY POST
[email protected]Hi Chefjeegar
Yes that screwdriver kit has the #00 phillips screwdriver that you need to access the RAM and hard drive. You'll also need the Torx driver to change the hard drive. http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Computer-Technician-Precision-Torx/dp/B0000934GO/r ef=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1348072554&sr=1-1
For a good explanation about RAM look at the page on OWC http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/MacBook/DDR2/
In the UK Amazon or eBay might be your best bet for cheap RAM but read the description and reviews carefully. For a little more expensive but with a better warranty is Crucial UK http://www.crucial.com/uk/
A good resource for working on your MacBook is ifixit.com http://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Core_2_Duo
Is your external hard drive formatted for Mac? To transfer your current hard drive I like the free application Carbon Copy Cloner. It makes a bootable copy of everything on your hard drive http://www.bombich.com/index.html Check that it's set up right by booting up from the external drive. Put the new drive in your MacBook, then format and partition the new drive. Then use Carbon Copy Cloner to transfer your OS back to the new drive.
Yes, you can put an SSD in the MacBook. -
I need to upgrade my MacBook 13" white 2008 hard drive. I have found a WD6400BPVT western digital Scorpio blue 640GB (5400rpm) SATA 8MB 2.5" will this fit and work? Many thanks for any help
I had a 640GB HDD in my Early 2008 Macbook and it was just too much it would always freeze up the computer a bit for only a few seconds but ya. Then I realized that it was the size of the HDD that was causing it since the Early 2008 Macbook models can only handle a MAX od 500GB while the Early 2008 Macbook Pros could have a MAX of 640GB (Lucked out there!) lol But ya the Early 2008 Mocbooks can only handle a MAX HDD size of 500GB and that's it!! lol
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I am trying to use the locate my macbook that was stolen. How do I know if it is set up on the service. It shows on the list but just says it is offline and doesn't say when or where it last was. I am trying to either locate it or erase it. HELP
Since you can see it in your device list it must have Find My Mac activated, but you're going to have to wait for them to take it online in order to either locate, lock or wipe it. Until it goes online you can't do anything. http://www.apple.com/support/icloud/find-my-device/
iCloud: Locate your device -
What cable/adapter do I need to connect my MacBook Pro to a Sharp Aquos TV?
What cable/adapter do I need to connect my MacBook Pro to a Sharp Aquos TV?
I want to watch videos on youtube or read articles on my laptop, and I want a cable/adapter that will hook up the Macbook to the TV and display the webpage that is on the laptop.Of course it doesn't. But you can buy an adaptor from HDMI to the Mini-DisplayPort port on the computer.
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HT5299 which cables do I need to connect my macbook pro 2013 to an hd tv?
which cables do I need to connect my macbook pro 2013 to an hd tv? The port's on the side have changed from my previous Mac. Thank you.
If you have a retina MBP use a HDMI to HDMI cable.
If you have a non retina MBP, use a minidisplay port to HDMI cable. Insert the minidisplay end in the Thunderbolt port.
Ciao. -
What do I need to connect my Macbook pro to a display?
You need a cable,
You need a cable,
You need a cable...
You can find all kinds of cables here:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246
Or in the Apple Store -
HT1338 What cable do I need to connect my macbook pro to my television(hdmi)?
What cable do I need to connect my macbook pro to my television(hdmi)?
If your Macbook has a Mini Display port and you want to connect it to an HDMI input on your TV you can use the Apple adapter available here;
http://store.apple.com/us/product/H1824ZM/A/Moshi_Mini_DisplayPort_to_HDMI_Adapt er
A similar, non-Apple connector is available on Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Female-Adapter-Macbook-Pro/dp/B002HU629E/ref=s r_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325274750&sr=8-1
Hope this helps. -
What cable do i need to connect my macbook pro to the hdmi input on my tv?.
what cable do i need to connect my macbook pro to the hdmi input on my tv?.
hi Sam
It's actally an HDMI adapter that Apple sells.
You hook the small adapter up to your MBP and then HDMI cable to your TV. Please note adapter is for HDMI compliant for HDMI rev 1.3 and above:
My TV, which has DVI port also, besides HDMI gets its best resolution by DVI of which also sell at Apple store for the MBP.
Bottom line is check w/ your TV manufacture to be sure your flat screen supports 1920 X 1200.
Let 'er rip and...
cheers -
What cable do I need to connect my MacBook Pro to my TV?
What cable do I need to connect my MacBook Pro to my TV?
If your Macbook has a Mini Display port and you want to connect it to an HDMI input on your TV you can use the Apple adapter available here;
http://store.apple.com/us/product/H1824ZM/A/Moshi_Mini_DisplayPort_to_HDMI_Adapt er
A similar, non-Apple connector is available on Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Female-Adapter-Macbook-Pro/dp/B002HU629E/ref=s r_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325274750&sr=8-1
Hope this helps.
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