I own a t2i and am will be going to Switzerland, is it worth it to get a full frame camera,opinions?

I am a novice photographer in training, I am planning a once in a life-time trip to switzerland and want to get the most out of the landscape/mountain shots that I can.
Any opinions on whether my t2i will suffice, or how to make the most of this camera, a certain lens mm etc. (ofcourse I do not want to buy a lens that is above the t2i's paygrade)
or
get a full-frame camera with a high caliber lens, L-wide angle stuff etc.
Thanks for your consideration.
Randal

If you have to ask the question, then the biggest thing you can do to improve your photography is to practice with what you have.  You most certainly do not need to move to full frame to get great trip photos, especially if you’re talking about landscape photography.  If you really feel the need to buy some stuff then I’d recommend a decent lens.  But honestly, and not to be critical, but based off the jargon in your post you don’t know your way around a camera all that well.  You can’t just buy a fancy lens and expect it to produce award winning photographs.  At this stage in the game technique will do far more than technology.
Make sure you have a decent range covered (e.g. 18 mm to 250 mm) and just go have fun.  Shoot in RAW so you can fix (some of) your mistakes after   Practice as much as you can before hand and learn to use the semi-auto functions like Av.  Make sure to not only take practice pictures, but review and edit them…  you learn the most from your mistakes.  Try to make the mistakes before the trip.  As someone who bought his first dSLR before a year long backpacking trip around the world, I wish I had the time to follow this advice beforehand. 

Similar Messages

  • HT5621 Me and my daughter are using the same Apple id and we share the same iCloud account. I want to change her Apple id so that she will have her own icliid account and I will have mine. how do I do it?

    Me and my daughter are using the same Apple id and we share the same iCloud account. I want to change her Apple id so that she will have her own icloud account and I will have mine.
    1. how do I do it?
    2. how do I  transfer her stuff which is in my icloud storage to her new icloud account once this one is created?
    thanks,
    Ari

    To migrate her device to a new account, start by saving any photo stream photos she wants to keep to her amera roll (unless already there) by opening your my photo stream album, tapping Select, tapping the photos, tap the share icon (box with upward facing arrow, then tapping Save to Camera Roll.  If she is syncing notes with iCloud, you'll need to open each of the notes and email them to her so she can later copy and paste the text into new notes created in her new account.  Then go to Settings>iCloud, tap Delete Account (which only deletes it from this device, not from iCloud), choose Keep on My iDevice and provide the password to turn off Find My iPhone.  Then sign back in with a different Apple ID to create her new account and choose Merge to upload the data.
    Once you are on separate accounts you can each go to icloud.com from a computer and delete the other person's data from your account.

  • HT1725 I downloaded an album and all of the tracks will play about 3/4 of the song then stop and play the next song.  I went to itunes store and it said the songs fully downloaded. So how do I get the full song into my library?

    I downloaded an album and all of the tracks will play about 3/4 of the song then stop and play the next song.  I went to itunes store and it said the songs fully downloaded. So how do I get the full song into my library?

    If your country's iTunes Store allows you to redownload purchased tracks, I'd delete your current copies of the tracks and try redownloading fresh copies. For instructions, see the following document:
    Downloading past purchases from the App Store, iBookstore, and iTunes Store
    Otherwise, I'd report the problem to the iTunes Store.
    Log in to the Store. Click on "Account" in your Quick Links. When you're in your Account information screen, go down to Purchase History and click "See all".
    Find the items that are not playing properly. If you can't see "Report a Problem" next to the items, click the "Report a problem" button. Now click the "Report a Problem" links next to the items.

  • I have CS4 Photoshop on my iMac with Mavericks. I am going to upgrade to Yosemite, and don't think it is compatible with CS4. Do I get the full Photoshop CC version for $9.99 a month, or do I need to buy any additional things?

    I have CS4 Photoshop on my iMac with Mavericks. I am going to upgrade to Yosemite, and don't think it is compatible with CS4. Do I get the full Photoshop CC version for $9.99 a month, or do I need to buy any additional things?

    Thanks, I was thinking so. I installed my CS4 from a CD in 2008, and it looks like Adobe has taken another approach to selling their products. I'll be downloading CC Photoshop a little later today.
    cw
          From: Brucgovn <[email protected]>
    To: Chris Warot <[email protected]>
    Sent: Saturday, May 2, 2015 11:27 AM
    Subject:  I have CS4 Photoshop on my iMac with Mavericks. I am going to upgrade to Yosemite, and don't think it is compatible with CS4. Do I get the full Photoshop CC version for $9.99 a month, or do I need to buy any additional things?
    I have CS4 Photoshop on my iMac with Mavericks. I am going to upgrade to Yosemite, and don't think it is compatible with CS4. Do I get the full Photoshop CC version for $9.99 a month, or do I need to buy any additional things?
    created by Brucgovn in Adobe Creative Cloud - View the full discussionYes, you will get full version Photoshop cc 2014 as well as Lightroom CC 2015 with Photography plan  If the reply above answers your question, please take a moment to mark this answer as correct by visiting: https://forums.adobe.com/message/7505683#7505683 and clicking ‘Correct’ below the answer Replies to this message go to everyone subscribed to this thread, not directly to the person who posted the message. To post a reply, either reply to this email or visit the message page: Please note that the Adobe Forums do not accept email attachments. If you want to embed an image in your message please visit the thread in the forum and click the camera icon: https://forums.adobe.com/message/7505683#7505683 To unsubscribe from this thread, please visit the message page at , click "Following" at the top right, & "Stop Following"  Start a new discussion in Adobe Creative Cloud by email or at Adobe Community For more information about maintaining your forum email notifications please go to https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1516624.

  • I bought an iphone 5 from the UK, after unboxing it i found a scratch on the chamfered edge, and when i shake it, i hear sound of a loose part inside it. now I am in Egypt and i'm not going back to the UK. how can i get help in Egypt to get it replaced?

    I bought an iphone 5 from the UK, after unboxing it i found a scratch on the chamfered edge, and when i shake it, i hear sound of a loose part inside it. now I am in Egypt and i'm not going back to the UK. how can i get help in Egypt to get it replaced?

    iPhone warranty is not international, but is valid only in
    the country of original purchase. Since you bought the iPhone
    in the UK, your warranty is valid anywhere in the EU but not
    in Egypt. You can gry taking it to an Apple authorized reseller,
    but don't be surprised if they tell you they cannot do anything.

  • HT4743 I downloaded a Mad Men Season 5 2nd show and it stops after 13:20... How do I get the full show or my money back?

    I downloaded a Mad Men Season 5 2nd show and it stops after 13:20... How do I get the full show or my money back?
    This is soooo frustrating!!

    No, never had any problems before. I heard another friend had the same problem with that episode. But I don't know what I can do about it.
    And yes, tried to restard the episode. Just freezes at that exact spot.

  • I have an alias file that will not delete or drag and it will not open to original file. How do I get these off my Mac?

    I have an alias file that will not delete or drag and it will not open to original file. I have tried everything I know and they still wont delete. Can someone please help me?

    Check out KB Article:  http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1526 You can't empty the Trash or move a file to the Trash 

  • I am using Windows 7 64-bit on a partitioned hard drive on a MacAir.  The trackpad will only work with a click.  How do I get the full function of tap and scroll?

    I am using Windows 7, 64-bit on a partitioned hard drive on a  2012 MacAir.  The trackpad only works with clicking.  How do I get the full function of tap and scroll? (I have this on a 2011 Mac Pro with 32 bit Windows 7 and it works properly.)

    Windows Control Panel>Boot Camp Control Panel>Trackpad.

  • I own a Toshiba and it will not let me update my Apple software. What can I do?

    Every time I turn my PC on it prompts me to do an Apple Software update. I go through the motions and right before it is about to finish it says error occurred. If the problem persists please go to Tools and download it manually (which I have already tried of course). Please help!

    Hey Mmiikkeedd,
    Thanks for the question. I understand you are experiencing issues updating iTunes. The following article may help to resolve your issue:
    iTunes: About the "A secure network connection could not be established" alert
    http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1470
    "iTunes could not connect to the iTunes Store. A secure network connection could not be established.
    Make sure SSL 3.0 or TLS 1.0 is enabled in the Internet Options control panel, then try again."
    If you continue to have issues, you might want to try the steps outlined in this article:
    Trouble installing iTunes or QuickTime for Windows
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1926
    Thanks,
    Matt M.

  • HT4528 I have a rotating blue box and blue bar that goes across my screen.  Any way to get rid if it? Happened after I updated to latest soft ware.

    Any help be great

    You turned on Accessibility features.
    General >> Accesibility >> Switch Control and turn it off again.

  • Iphone 6 128 camera freezes...sometimes with a blurred image and sometimes just freezes black.  I have to reboot phone to get past the frozen camera screen.  It happens several times a day.

    I go to take a photo and the camera either shows repetitive blurred image or is just black.   The entire iPhone 6 128 is locked in the camera freeze.  The only way to use the phone is to shut off power and reboot.  Is anyone having this problem on the iPhone 6?

    i have been having the same problem today. I have however narrowed it down further: when I am zoooming in on a shot, take the shot, then slide to another mode like from a still shot to video  (without uzooming),= freezing. I am taking my iPhone back to apple to see what they say if I don't an answer on the forums here. Not happy with this btw!

  • I am trying to change the color of a background layer and it will not accept the color I want

    I am trying to change the color of a background layer and it will not accept the color I want

    If you want to get help you may have to provide a lot more details about what you are doing (which tools or commands do you use, what exactly happens when it fails, …)?

  • I have tried to download the update for itunes several times and it will not complete, i get an error message

    I have tried to download the update for itunes several times. Each time it get to the installation part and stall and then reverses and give me an erorr message. My current version when I open it, it says there is an error and I will not be able to download a CD into itunes, although I have completed several CD downloads.

    Go to http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/new/ and download the full installer. Run the installer and you will be up-to-date. Sometimes the updater just gets in a weird state...

  • I can not get the new verison of Itunes to load and it will not let me open my old one.

    I can not ge the new iTunes to load and it will not let me open the old one.

    Do you get an error message when you try to open iTunes? If so, what does it say? (Precise text, please.)

  • T3i sensor size vs. full frame and how does that effect lens measurements?

    I am new to both photography and the T3i camera. I have been reading Jeff Revell's book "Canon EOS Rebel T3i / 600D: From Snapshots to Great Shots". In chapter two he talks about "Lenses and Focal Lengths". In discussing wide-angle lenses he says
    "As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
    Latter he discusses normal lenses and says
    "The normal lens for full-frame and 35mm cameras is the 50mm lens, but for the T3i it is more in the neighborhood of a 35mm lens."
    I understand that there is a 1 / 1.6 ratio between the T3i and a Full Frame camera. In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
    Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
    When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
    Thanks in advance for your assistance.
    --Jesse
    P.S.  I could not find a publisher’s forum for this book or I would have asked the question there.

    Jesse-T3i wrote:
    "As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
    In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
    Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
    When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
    The fast answers are:
    When he mentions the 35mm as the basis for determining what's "wide" he is referring to the APS-C crop-frame size sensor.
    There is no nomenclature to indicate if you are "full frame" vs. "crop frame" on a lens because all lenses are reported in true focal lengths.  There is a nomenclature to indicate if the lens was designed to only project an image circle onto the sensor which is large enough for "crop frame" ... which is what the "EF-S" lens is.  If the lens is for "full frame" (which also works on all crop-frame) then it will have the designation "EF" for most lenses, but Canon also has a few specialty lenses such as the "TS-E" (tilt shift) and "MP-E" (macro photo) lenses which also provide full-frame sensor coverage.  Incidentally... this is just Canon's way of tagging a lens... Nikon uses the terms "FX" and "DX" (for full frame and crop frame respectively).  Everyone has their own tag.  Just remember that focal lengths reported are true (well... there's a TINY bit of round-off allowed) and ignore the sensor size.
    Here's the background which may help you understand why this is.
    The "normal" focal length is based on the human eye, and to understand it, it's easier to think in terms of "angle of view" rather than "focal length."
    If you sit and stare straight ahead without moving your eyes or head to "look around", there is an area of vision that the average person can see (and it does vary), but the "angle of view" for that area is about 40 degrees (horizontally). Of course our vision doesn't present our brain with a nice little rectangular image... it fades and is irregular, but it's generally accepted that the angle of view covers about 40 degrees.
    The LENS that provides 40 degree angle of view coverage on a "full frame" camera turns out to be a 50mm lens.  Images taken with such a lens will seem neither stretched out nor compressed... they'll seem "normal" to your brain.  Also, if you can see an object without having to look around to take in the view, then your camera can "see" it with that lens.  
    A "full frame" camera is one which has a sensor size which is approximately the same as a single frame of 35mm film.  The dimensions are roughly 36mm x 24mm.  
    There are many different crop frame sizes, but for DSLR cameras, the most popular (by far) is the APS-C size.  This means the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame for the "Advanced Photo System - Classic" film.   You can think of this as being roughly 21mm x 14mm (although it varies by a just a few millimeters -- on your camera it's really 22.3 x 14.9mm).
    If you were to use a movie projector and movie screen and you projected an image so that it fit perfectly on a 12' x 8' screen and called that "full frame", then a "crop frame" would be derived by shriking the movie screen down to about 8' wide by about 5-1/3' tall but (and here's the key) without doing ANYTHING to the movie projector.  Essentially that means you're projecting an image intended to fit ona 12x8' screen... but the real screen is smaller.  What happens to the part of the image that doesn't fit on the screen?    It just spills off the sides and is lost.  That is EXACTLY what happens inside a crop-frame camera.
    Canon EOS "EF" lenses are designed to project an image large enough to fill a full-frame sensor ... so when used on a crop-frame camera some of that image just spills off the sides.   This means that if your lens was providing a 40 degree angle of view (measured horizontally) then the crop-frame is only capturing the 26 degrees in the middle of it.  If you want a 40 degree angle of view again... you'll need to change lenses.
    And this is where your author suggests a 35mm lens is "normal" for a camera with an APS-C body.  The math actually works out in the neighborhood of a 31mm lens, but nobody actually makes a 31mm lens... and a 35mm focal length (commonly available) is pretty close.  Also 28mm lenses are commonly available and are ALSO pretty close.  It's my personal opinion that 28mm is probably a bit more normal than 35mm, but that's because as an avid amateur astronomer, I am fairly used to looking through Plossl design eyepieces which provide a 50 degree apparent angle of view and my eye actually can see the edges of the frame, but if I go a bit wider... I can no longer see the edges of the field without "looking around" (regardless... 40 degrees seems to be the established norm and THAT is the value that everything is based on.)
    For purposes of buying lenses, the focal lengths are NOT converted or adjusted in any way.  For example, Canon makes "EF-S" lenses designed specifically to work with their crop-frame bodies.  So when the kit lens that comes with the camera says it is a zoom with an 18-55mm focal length range... it really is 18-55mm regardless of sensor size.   (Canon isn't multiplying or dividing focal lengths and putting a different value on the box just because it's intended for a crop-sensor camera.)
    Hope this helps.
    Regards,
    Tim
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Maybe you are looking for