I REGRET CHOOSING THE 5800XM
I know some of you are in love with it but there's a whole lot of others who'll agree with me on this one. My 5800XM is one of the worst in history, what happened to customer satisfaction? The fone crashes a lot, the photo gallery shows no photos but I can view the photo indivisually in file manager, the music player doesn't refresh & songs disappear from the library while still available in file manager, you have to pay for plenty of applications which are normally free (i.e: PDF reader, quickoffice, etc.), I initially taught that as a smartphone it was supposed to come bundled with those apps but it wasn't. I really regret it, I wish i'd opted 4 a Sony Ericsson or Samsung. I tot of upgrading to the N97 but with it's own problems that I caught up with here, I guess it's goodbye to my 10 year long relationship with NOKIA.
Lets see
- phone crashes - mine never did, but then again the first batches of the 5800 was problematic (or due to problematic firmware installation)
- Photo Gallery shows no photos - a common problem with corrupted cards. A virus from the PC may have set the pics to become invisible. It can be seen in a PC where viewing invisible files are enabled, but not on the 5800. Just set the pics to visible on the PC and reformat the card to get rid of the corruption
- PDF, quickoffice etc - its not the 5800's or Nokia's fault. If you go to the Adobe or Quick website these things arent free. They sell it and not provide it free. Even if you went for Satio from SE or Samsungs's Omnia HD you'd still pay for those stuff. Even if it was a smartphone, its also xpressmusic which by standard even when using s60v3 does not have these office apps bundled as it is targeted at a market of people who do not use these things a lot (teenagers), as of the moment AFAIK only the n97 and the mini get it bundled. All other s60v5 (5530, 5320) does not have it bundled. If you went for an s60v3 phone though, like n86, n85, these are available for free. So dont get mad at Nokia for this. One of the reasons why its cheap is that they did not pay for the licenses. It would be more expensive if they did. Getting an SE or Samsung with the same OS wouldnt help. You'd still be in the same situation.
- If you are buying an SE for the same amount you dished out for the 5800, you'll be getting a dummyphone with no option to get PDF or quickoffice even if you paid for it, or an old outdated smartphone probably to get those. For samsung, this one would have been a decent alternative, although you might get less features for a similar priced phone which runs s60 as well. For a WinMo samsung you'll have to choose an older model or shell out more.
If you find my post helpful please click the green star on the left under the avatar. Thanks.
Similar Messages
-
Choosing the Right Power Supply
First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs -
Step 1. I open a web page.
Step2. I press ctrl+d.
Step3. I do not see the window where I choose the folder I wish the bookmark to be saved in.
Step4. I clicked the star button on the right corner of location bar.
Step5. I see the window now.
Step 6. When I move the cursor down that window to choose the folder it again disappears.
Step 7. I randomly click at a spot in the area where the window disappeared.
Step 8. I realize that it does not go away but stays hidden disappearing.[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV050BObT9I]hello bdavis106, please refer to [[Find and manage downloaded files]].
-
Can i choose the resolution of my external display for when the lid is closed when my lid is open
When I close the lid of my MacBook Pro for an external display apple chooses a resolution that isn't compatible with my display can I choose the resolution when the lid is open in any way of my external display for the mode when the lid is closed?
Hi there, I had a similar problem and was unable to resolve it. I spent about an hour on the phone with a very helpful AppleCare rep who was also completely stuck. It would seem that the only solution is to choose a setting with trial and error while the lid is closed.
My MacBook ended up getting stuck on a closed-lid reoslution that wasn't supported, so I had to do a screen-share with another device to see what the video card was sending to the external display and change it back that way. -
This process does not appear to work for me. I'm running 10.8.3. I created a new user for a guest staying with me. They have gone now and I am attempting to either change the password or delete the user. It won't allow me to choose the user I created. I am logged in as myself and it states that I am an "Admin". The user I'm attempting to change is listed as a "standard" user and there is a white checkmark inside an orange circular background on the user pic in the list of users.
Can someone help me? I am having a hard time believing that OSx will allow me to create users and allow them use of my computer and it's drives, yet it will not allow me to change the password so I can monitor what they might have been doing while logged on? What if this were my child? This guest left under sketchy circumstances, and I'd really like to be able to ensure they were not using my computer to do illegal things or to have illegal communications.
Any help would be appreciated. (It's odd that it was so simple to "create" a user and set a password for them.......but it's complicated or a little known process to reverse.
Thanks.Here are two screen shots to show you what I am seeing. The first screen shot shows it allowing me to select (highlighted in blue) my admin user (which is what I am locced in as). The second screen shot shows it allowing me to select the "Guest" user (highlighted in blue). However when I click on the user "Orion" nothing happens. It will not change to highlight that user.
-
It happened all of a sudden, any site that requires a new window to open to sign up for something or to choose something it just won't do it. I can't forward any emails because in order to choose the people I'm sending the email to, a new small window with my address book pops up and Mozilla won't let it happen. How can I change this back to the way it was?
Mike,
Are any of your other applications going wonky, or is it just Logic?
I'm afraid I've never heard of this particular problem before, but if it were happening to me the first thing I would do is delete my "com.apple.logic.express.plist" file in Library>Preferences, then repair permissions in Disc Utility, and finally restart my computer. Then I would launch Logic and see if the problem has been corrected. It's amazing how much these two steps can accomplish.
If that doesn't resolve the issue I would launch Logic and go to Preferences>Audio Units Manager to see if all my plug-ins are properly validated. -
In the report builder 6i when I choose the query type as Express Query .....
In the report builder 6i when I choose the query type as Express Query and go to next step where on pressing the connect button I am getting the following error.
REP-6029 : Express error.
How can I solve this problem ?
Thanks
Nanda KishoreDiId you download Oracle Reports Developer/Server Release 6i for Express, Files for Oracle8i for Windows NT from OTN?
If so, could you provide me wih more information?
Thanks
Elaine -
Unable to open the photos in reviewer, every time I click on the photo on , it says do not have permission to view the photo. Please open the item in the finder choose the item and click on <get info>. What am I suppose to change in the setting on <get info>
Back up all data.
This procedure will unlock all your user files (not system files) and reset their ownership and access-control lists to the default. If you've set special values for those attributes on any of your files, they will be reverted. In that case, either stop here, or be prepared to recreate the settings if necessary. Do so only after verifying that those settings didn't cause the problem. If none of this is meaningful to you, you don't need to worry about it.
Step 1
If you have more than one user, and the one in question is not an administrator, then go to Step 2.
Triple-click anywhere in the following line on this page to select it:
{ sudo chflags -R nouchg,nouappnd ~ $TMPDIR..; sudo chown -R $UID:staff ~ $_; sudo chmod -R u+rwX ~ $_; chmod -R -N ~ $_; } 2>&-
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window by pressing command-V. I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, you may have to press the return key after pasting.
You'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you don’t have a login password, you’ll need to set one before you can run the command. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator.
The command may take a few minutes to run, or perhaps longer if you have literally millions of files in your home folder. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign ($) to appear, then quit Terminal.
Step 2 (optional)
Take this step only if you have trouble with Step 1, if it frightens you, or if it doesn't solve the problem.
Start up in Recovery mode. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select
Utilities ▹ Terminal
from the menu bar. A Terminal window will open.
In the Terminal window, type this:
res
Press the tab key. The partial command you typed will automatically be completed to this:
resetpassword
Press return. A Reset Password dialog will open. You’re not going to reset a password.
In the dialog, select the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name) if it's not already selected.
Select your username from the menu labeled Select the user account if it's not already selected.
Under Reset Home Directory Permissions and ACLs, click the Reset button.
Select
▹ Restart
from the menu bar. -
My computer's anti-virus software recently expired. A few days later, I went to download a new anti-virus software . . . when I opened up Firefox, I received a warning that claimed Firefox was infected with "Trojan-BNK.Win32.Keylogger.gen", and gave me two options: "Activate XP Security 2011 (recommended)" (this was a $60 charge and required credit card info) or "Continue unprotected (Dangerous)"
Since I needed to install new anti-virus, I figured I would continue unprotected, download my new software quickly, and remove the virus. But when Firefox opened, it gave me a message saying: "Firefox alert. Visiting this site may pose a security threat to your system!". Gave me three options:
1. "Get a copy of 'XP Security 2011' to safeguard your PC while surfing the web (RECOMMENDED)"
2. "Run a spyware, virus and malware scan" (I already did this)
3. "Continue surfing without any security measures (DANGEROUS)"
I tried clicking on different links, but the same warning kept showing up, even on verified and safe sites. I tried to choose the third option so that I could download my anti-virus software quickly, but nothing happened when I clicked on it - the page reloads and the warning shows up again.
My computer is still without anti-virus software because Firefox will not let me surf the internet. Please help!It sounds as though your PC is infected with fake antivirus software. The detailed cleanup instructions vary depending on which fake AV you have. However, as a first step, try this:
Download the following on a different PC, copy them to a USB flash drive or CD, and then run them on the infected PC:
Malwarebytes Anti-malware : http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php
SUPERAntiSpyware : http://www.superantispyware.com/
Hopefully these will get you back online safely. If not, search for clean-up instructions for the specific malware. -
How can I choose the volume which I want to restore by Time Machine? I have two volumes.
Does anyone know how to restore one of two volumes from Time Machine?
I have been using SSD and HDD on my MBP.Today, I replaced an old HDD to a new HDD and tried to restore from Time Machine.
Unfortunately, Migration Assistant couldn't choose which volume I want to restore.
On Time Machine, I could choose the location, but it was just a copy, not a restore.
Some files address has been changed, so I have to correct the location for every apps on SSD.
For example, "/Volumes/Macintosh HD/Users/" has changed to "/Volumes/Macintosh HD//Macintosh HD/Users/"
I want to make a new HDD be exactlly same as an old HDD, so I don't need to adjust file locations or rename the address.
Thank you in advance.In SCORM-compliant LMSs the "mechanism" for transferring interaction data is via JavaScript variables. SCORM uses a standard JavaScript API that all compliant LMSs are supposed to understand and interpret correctly. (I use the words "supposed to" because the reality tends to be that they all interpret the standard a little differently.)
If this is a "locally developed LMS" then all bets are off. You should in theory be able to transfer quite a bit of information, but with a home-grown roll-your-own system at the other end, you have no way of knowing how it will handle that information.
You need to talk to whoever built or is currently in charge of this LMS, hopefully someone with technical knowledge and expertise. Get them to tell you how much of the SCORM standard is actually supported. Only then will you know if you can use some more advanced Captivate functionality to pass more scoring information (e.g. interaction data as well as score/pass/fail).
If your current LMS is truly only able to accept a couple of values, and your customer wants more than this, handball the issue back to them. They'll either have to upgrade their LMS or revise their requirements. -
How do I choose the $40.00 Icloud plan? When I attemp this, it doesn't allow me to click "next."
The only way it allows me to click "next" is if I choose the $100.00 plan. The email that was sent to me says that I should upgrade or reduce storage because my plan will be reduce to 5GB as of September 30, 2013. Please advise.Try Settings>iCloud>Storage & Backup>Change Storag Plan. If you are a former MobileMe user you should see Purchase Current Plan listed between the 20GB and 50GB options.
-
Is it possible to choose the serial port if only the run time engine is installed
I have an application, which communicates over the serial port. When I use the full version of Labview I can change the serial port without any problem from Com1 to Com2 (similar to the example “Hardeware input output -> serial -> Labview serial vi"). When I build an application and try to run this program on a computer where only the run time engine 6.1 is installed, it is not possible to choose the serial port. Since there is no “Measurement and Automation Explorer” available on the run time engine and no directory C:\VXIpnp is created, when the run time engine is installed, I do not see a way, how I can satisfy the computer with the information it needs for configuring
the different ports. Any suggestions?Hi Daniel,
Before LV6.1 there was LV5.1 In LV5.1 the way to Spedify a resource was to use a string control with correct VIsa Resource Class identifier. For eg. "GPIB0::11" or "ASRL1::INSTR". With Introduction of VISA Resource Name Control and linking with MAX, These names are Available from Pull Down List and Can be Aliased, meaning ASRL1 which is Serial Port 1 can be called COM1 and so on. However the old method still works with all 6.1 Controls. Only thing is you have to make sure you Dont Conflict the Class Names ie Use "GPIB::.." instead of "ASRL..." when addressing Serial Port VI's.
To solve your Problem I would Build a Menu ring with COM1 to COM4 in the Pull Down List.
Next, If I use the Traditonal Serial Port VI wich accepts the Integer as Seria
l Port #. I just Wire the Menu Ring to this VI.(Remember COM1 is 0, COM2 is 1 for this VI)
If I use VISA Config Serial Post. I build an Array Constant with Corresponding VISA Class Names So in our case a String Array Constant of 4 elements "ASRL1::INST" to "ASRL4::INST". I Use Index Array Function With the Index Wired to my Menu Ring. The Array Input Terminal Wired to the Array Constant. The Output of this Array will be correct Visa Class Name Based on slection of my Menu Ring. I can Wire this as Input to my VISA Config Serial Port Vi.
I have attached a Small VI to Illustrate this.
Drawback: You must Predefine what Ports you will Want to Use. Basically you define all the cases.
I hope this Answers your Q!
Good Luck
Mache
Good Luck!
Mache
Attachments:
Serial_Port_Select.vi 36 KB -
Flexible Report - choose the cols (and # of cols) on the fly - PDF
Hi
I have a user community who would like to be able to choose the columns in a "Flexible Report" when they want to run a report to output to the browser, and then to PDF.
Now, I've played around a bit with setting up a number of page items - say 5 - called COL1..COL5 and setting the values from list-boxes and then running a report SQL:-
Select :col1 COL1,
:col5 COL5
from my_table
etc.
This produces the data, but its pretty tacky and the column names are COL1, COL2.... - also tacky, and the number of columns is fixed.
Anyone got any slick ideas on how to do this so the column names and # are variable?
I have tried a javascript example (posted elsewhere in the forum) that runs the report with all it's columns, and allows the columns to be shown / hidden depending on the state of a ccheckbox. This is very cool but it doesn't translate the flexibility to PDF output.
For those who have used Discoverer - I need a mini-Discoverer reportwriter!!
Any input greatfully received - Thanks in anticipation.
Mike
Message was edited by:
Mike Machi
see this thread,it may help you...
column name/table name
regards
vally.s -
C7 breaks down after choosing the resolution for a new project
Hello Community,
finally I succeeded in installing C7 on my MacBook Pro with Mavericks 10.9. But it breaks down every time after I choose the resolution for my project. The beachball appears for one second and then C7 breaks down.
On the same MacBook I can open C7 on another account. But I want to use C7 on my account.
Has anybody expereienced the same problems?
Has anybody a solution for my problem?
Cheers,
TomHi there,
can you please try deleting preferences by using the "CleanPreferencesMac" present in the Captivate installation location/Ultils folder, relaunch Captivate and see it resolves the issue or not.
Thanks,
Nimmy Sukumaran. -
While using a drop-down menu i.e. File, edit, image, or even when saving as and choosing the file type; the list appears and I am able to highlight what i want but cannot click on anything. This is becoming incredibly frustrating. It happens at random time and a restart of the computer is all that helps, then with out any notice it starts to do this again. Mac Book Pro i7 2.2 16 GB 1333 Ram, (2) 450GB SSD both internal to machine. At this point I am losing file because I am unable to save in the file type I need. Does anyone out there know how to solve this issue?
Thanks
philI haven't been unify photoshop much in the past month, but I did try your suggestion and it seemed to work for a while. Today when i went to save a document the same thing happened: click on file>save at this point I can not click on save even though it is highlighted. Tryed to use command s that brings up the save dialogue box, but when I try to change file type I again cannot select it from the drop down menu.
Maybe you are looking for
-
I can no longer crop and scale my photos to fit my screen as wallpaper with the OS7 update.
As stated above.
-
Switch sim card from old phone into 3GS?
Will it void my iPhone warranty if I take the sim card from my old phone (Nokia E62 if that matters) and put it in my new 3GS? I'll still have the data plan attached to my AT&T account, right? I want to switch sim card so I have all my contacts, but
-
Can i upgrade premier pro CS3 to work on win 8.1
Can I upgrade premier pro cs 3 to work on win 8,1.... Terry
-
Is it possible to use my old visioneer 2400 scanneron thenew mac mini
is it possible to use my old visioneer 2400 scanneron thenew mac mini
-
One button on the logic board of a 1st generation iMac G5 (PPC) is an alternate power button. Does anyone know what the purpose of the other button is?