I think I ruined my motherboard

I opened my mac yersterday just to clean the dust for a long time I bought it on february of 2012, its a mac book pro 13" , I was surprised of how cool it looked and I touched to mother board and that it just touched it, cleaned the dust and then when I put the cover again I doesnt turn on, Im so sad my mac was like my baby, when I plug the charger it appear a slighty green light.
Does anybody have any idea what could have happened? do you think the warranty will cover this? thanks everybody

you sure you just touched it?
touched WHAT on the logic board?
use any solvents?
what did you DUST it with?
static charge likely fried it.....NOT you touching
static discharge from your "dusting"

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I think I ruined my motherboard or battery

Yesterday I opened up my computer to clean it and I touched the mother board I was so corious, then after I closed it it won't turn on, Its really the stupidiest think I have ever done in my life, does warranty covers it? also if I plug the charger it doesnt show up the green light, pleas someone help me!
Its a mac book pro mid 2012, 13 inches

Touching the logic board in itself does not cause this type of failure.
Taking the back off does not void the warranty.
Sounds more like the battery connection is not tight.
take it in for a free assessment.
Genius reservation http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
on-line https://getsupport.apple.com/GetproductgroupList.action
check warranty https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do

I think I ruined my Macbook Pro...

I was watching TV last night when I reached for a bottle of water and knocked it onto my laptop's keyboard. I immediately grabbed a towel and dried it off as best as I could... It still worked, but I noticed some of the keys wouldn't respond to typing so I turned my laptop off in order to dry out; I figured it since it was just water everything would be OK in the morning once it dried.
Well it's been +12 hours and the keys that didn't work after the spill still don't work. Is my laptop ruined? I can't even log in, now, since some of the keys that won't work are keys needed for my password...
If it is indeed ruined, would I be able to plug another keyboard in (maybe via USB port?) so that I can still use it until it can be replaced, or would that require me to log on to install software?
Thanks
Message was edited by: cgermany

It's really important to turn the Mac over and drain out as much water as you can, and then remove the battery and let it dry for at least 3 days, and preferably 5-7 before attempting to put power to it. The length of time will vary--if you live in the high desert as I do with 6% humidity like I do, 5-7 days is recommended by the local AASP. If you are in a humid area, let it dry longer, and maybe seal it up with a desiccant like Neuroanatomist suggests. Keep in mind that water can work its way deeper into the machine over time, so it is really important not to put power to it too soon. The machine needs to be bone dry.
The good news is that water is one of the more innocuous things to spill. There is a very good chance that once it is totally dry, everything will work.
Good luck!

I think I ruined a SuperDuper backup with TM

I use Super Duper once a day to create a bootable backup, and TM to back up files on an hourly basis. (If anyone can suggest a better system, please do!)
I won't go into why, because I don't think it is relevant, but I have to totally restore my hard drive. In trying to restore from TM, I accidentally restored to my SuperDuper backup drive, not my internal hard drive. I noticed the mistake and stopped the restore. However, now my SuperDuper backup is no longer named what it was named before. Now it has the same name as the internal drive I was trying to restore from TM. I am afraid that means I made the same mistake before, did not notice it, and wiped out my Super Duper backup.
If I made the mistake only once and stopped the process, would TM still have changed the name of that volume?
Are there any specific signs I can look for to determine if my Super Duper backup is intact, or if it got wiped out and replace with a TM backup?
I hope this is clear—thanks for your time.
Ben

iRabb wrote:
Thank you again, Pondini.
Sure. And thanks for the stars.
After your explanation that a restoration from TM is bootable, I began to wonder what the purpose of my Super Duper or your CarbonCopyCloner is. Is it merely to avoid having to reboot from the Leopard disk and restore from TM, or is there another purpose(s) for it?
Two reasons: First, when your HD dies, you can boot and run from the clone immediately; you have to wait to get your HD repaired (or you have another external disk/partition) to restore from TM.
Second is a bit like a belt plus suspenders. No app is perfect, and all backup apps depend on hardware, which is also not perfect. Plus, TM, being so very fancy and sophisticated, and fairly new, may not be quite as reliable as CCC, SD, or the like.
And backups are one area where many of us have learned, often the hard way, that +Paranoia is Prudent!+

Are you thinking of a new motherboards

was just over at slashdot and spotted a pointer to this:cool:
http://www.geek.com/splashtop-linux-des … /index.php

I'm old school: I like my ON/OFF switch- gives me absolute control over those dam' cylons (and the MAX energy saving). The problem these days is everybody trying to juggle too many things in the air at the same time, and giving up our free will and power of decision in the process. But I'll stop here with the propaganda.

I think I ruined the protective plastic window on my iSight webcam. Help!

I was trying to clean my iSight webcam. Used some glasses cleaner spray. And tried wiping it with a glasses cleaning cloth. But there seemed to be a white speck on the cover so I might have gotten a little rough scraping at it. And it looks like the cover is all messed up now. As if there was a tint on it that is scratched of from most of it, so there are dark and light parts on it now. Does anyone know how I could get a new plastic piece for it? Is this going to take a lot of time and be expensive?

To The Apple Discussion Boards!
Check out _*EZ Jim Nov 5, 2007*_ posting in the following thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1220986

BIOS 4.2 P67A-GD65 flash failed and motherboard HS ?

Hi,
I just ruined my motherboard MSI thanks, I possesses a P67A-GD65 and I wanted to put the last bios 4.2, the pc is stable at 100%, not overclocked etc .... I run the flash freeze win7 64 and freeze .... Now this does not boot anymore when I turn on the pc it'm black screen, it goes off, it turns on black screen in a loop ....
is there a method to reflash the bios or is what it is .....
Service thank you in advance

Try what froggy said but frorm the sound of it, you bricked the board.
If after clearing the cmos et al, you cannot post you will need to either take it to a computer shop or return it to msi for a bios flashing. I think shipping costs a little more than the computer shop but it only takes a few minutes.

MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR Nforce2 (Socket A) Motherboard (MB-003-MS) Features NF2 chip

I tried to install 3 of the Crucial Ballistix Tracer (1 Gig Each) in this motherboard (MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR Nforce2 (Socket A) Motherboard (MB-003-MS) Features NF2 chipset) and it will not run stabilly no matter what I tried. Is this a bios conflict with the memory? If so, are there any new bios updates? I have tried cas settings and voltage settings but nothing works. It will how ever run perfectly with only 2 sticks in single channel mode. It will not run same 2 sticks in dual channel mode. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone know of any new motherboards with maybe NFORCE 4 Chipset that support all 3 sticks of this memory and an AGP graphics card? Im thinking of a new motherboard but I still need to have AGP and SATA.
Barton 3200 core proc.
System has ran fine for a solid year until I tried new memory. Please help!

Quote from: freakytiki4u on 07-November-06, 23:42:33
Ok I tried to use relaxed FSB by -10 and relaxed mem timings but still unstable due to the motherboard trying to use dual channel memory. If you can modify the bios to where it will not have the capability of dual channel memory I truly believe it will work. Will u try this for me? I would greatly appreciate it as I am really not ready to spend all the money on new equipemtn when this suits my needs for now.
sure but as i said before this is gona be experimental and risky. Here we go:
MSI K7N2 Delta ILSR Experimental MOD E1(Disable Dual CH ability)
Procedure is automated in best possible safest way to BIOS update.
Prepare a blank diskette in a good condition(newest one etc.)
]execute file under XP will make bootdisk with automated BIOS update procedure. when diskette is ready, reboot PC and boot from FDD(floppy), wait a bit, then you will be asked for final confirmation about BIOS update process, press a key to proceed, after BIOS update is complete, ensure that you got successfully output message from flash program. then power down your PC, remove power cord from the PSU, hit power button several time to drain caps electrify, touch with hands some metal for ES discharge, and Clear CMOS.
pull back power cord, power up your PC, when you see CMOS checksum error,(expected msg) hit F1 to continue to re-build DMI pool data, then reboot and enter in BIOS, LOAD BIOS DEFAULT, and SAFE AND EXIT.
NOTE: Ensure your PC is stable before proceed with BIOS update.
NOTE: Use it at own risk, chance of failure is big, cannot guarantee results and safest as provisional mode which can guarantee it will work stable with features. also cannot test it personally before give you. (don't have mobo anymore)
Using it may end with dead mainboard (BIOS chip re-flash will be required, if somethink goes wrong)

K8NGM2-FID: bad PCI-e x16 slot on motherboard?

Computer boots fine, but I do no get any video output when booting from a PCI-e graphics card. I've tried 2 eVGA GeForce 7600GS cards and 1 PNY 7300GT and they all have the same problem. Components and detailed description are below. I assume my motherboard's PCI-e slot is bad, but don't want to RMA it unless I have to (don't want to be without it for 2-3 weeks).
Components:
AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Venice 2000MHz
MSI K8NGM2-FID micro-ATX
2x512MB Corsair ValueSelect PC3200
Onboard GeForce 6150 / eVGA 7600GS / PNY 7300GT
Samsung SP0822N IDE 80 GB Boot Drive
2x Samsung SP2504C SATA 250 GB in Raid 0
Samsung IDE SH-S162L/BEBN DVD R/W
SeaSonic S12 380W Power Supply (+3.3V@22A, +5V@21A, +12V1@10A, +12V2@15A, [email protected], +5VSB@2A)
Hauppauge PVR-500 Dual TV Tuner (PCI)
Vbox Cat's Eye DTA-150 HDTV Tuner (PCI)
D-Link Wireless G USB adapter
Windows Media Center Edition 2005
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2nd eVGA 7600GS: I returned the video card to the store and got an identical replacement. I have not been able to get any video feed on this video card either. I have tried enabling [Both exist and OnChip VGA by frame buffer select] in the BIOS and that didn't help. I hooked up a monitor via DVI to the onboard graphics and a monitor via VGA to the video card (and vice-versa), and only the onboard graphics displayed anything. I unhooked nearly all components - USB devices, PCI cards, additional Hard Drives etc. and still could not get a video output from the card. I have reseated the card many times. It’s almost like the motherboard is not detecting that a PCI Express video card is installed. The Device Manager only shows the GeForce 6150 Display Adapter. eVGA suggests a 400 Watt Power Supply, and I only have a 380 Watt PSU.
PNY 7300GT: Installed and went into the BIOS, made sure everything was correct and rebooted. I got a video feed from the card, but when windows detected new hardware, the computer froze so I had to restart. I have not been able to get video output from the card ever since. Card only requires a 300W power supply with 12V rating of 20A or more.
I've been using this motherboard for about 8 months without any problems until I tried installing a PCI-e video card. So, do you think it's my motherboard or something else?

Quote from: TheBigMan on 19-October-06, 07:57:01
Try this:
Go into BIOS to 'Advanced Chipset Features' and in:
'Primary Graphics Adapter' -> PCI Express
'OnChip and PCIe VGA Selection' -> Disable OnChip VGA if have PCIe VGA
'OnChip VGA Frame Buffer Size' -> Disable
'OnChip VGA Trap' -> Disable
See if it helps...
Be well....
Yes, I've tried all that except setting the OnChip VGA Frame Buffer Size to Disable. I just tried that and I couldn't get a video feed via the PCI-e VGA or the onboard graphics, so I had to reset the CMOS.

Is my Toshiba Satellite L35 Motherboard bad?

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if you think it is overheating try cleanin it out. cleaning notebook vents.
if you want to really get in there and clean it out. A305 disassemble.
but only do the second if your warranty is over.
-civicman4-
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Post all info about your laptop and version of windows. We are working on it but still do not have the powers to read your mind.

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If it's from the same model MBA, it will work.
Check its "model identifier". A Mid-2011 MBA, 13 inch size for example, will be MacBookAir4,2.
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"My G5 is now getting its third motherboard in its less than two years of life."
You may be entitled to a new computer if you have AppleCare and/or the repairs were done under one of Apple's 2 Extension Repair Programs.
Suggest that you contact Customer Relations: 1-800-767-2775
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Thank you for responding but unfortunatly it still didn't work. It turns out that i have to set the hard drive to AHCI in order for me to install Windows XP. The problem in hand is i will be using this program called nLite.
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After overclock my 990XA-GD55 motherboard dead?

Hello people. Need help to identify problem. I installed my new 990XA-GD55 with AMD FX-8150. Every part was installed correct and it's worked perfect after one my stupid overclock test... I used Control Center to overclock my computer. All settings i clocked max as possible in Control Center. After that i heared some burst sound somewhere in computeer and after that my computer show black screen. When i turn on my computer, no speaker sound, no other booting. After all bios, battery and other parts clear nothing happens.... What the part may be dead? I think that the my motherboard dead... And also, i can't turn off yet my computer, just unplug power cabel. But to turn on it's possible, but black screen and nothing happens more... :(
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Quote from: bonehead2 on 05-August-12, 06:06:09
Hello again helpers. So, PSU is not dead, and with another friends 500W PSU everything are the same. The computer turns on, but black screen, no speaker sound, no boot, no nothing. All coolers work in all speed, case power leds do not shine and also can't turn off computer by the power button just need to unplug power cable. Seems my MOBO is really dead...
Well, this is lesson for me is how to do something crazy but with a little response before I get my best results. Now it will be expensive for me to back to the start. Hope that the other HW parts are ok... Thanks all for the help.
hopefully the other parts are ok, just start by getting a new motherboard as like i originally said you more then likely blew out a VRM or 2 or a capacitor!
in the future don't go so extreme immediatly go 1 small step at a time while overclocking in small incliments and test for stability between! just be careful and monitor what the system is saying temprature wise!

MOVED: MSI Z77A-G45 Motherboard Overclocking/BIOS help!

This topic has been moved to Overclocking, Undervolting.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=180369.0

BUMP
Oh yeah, so not only can i not overclock my pc anymore, it's decided to crash on me every 30 minutes, doesn't restart.. I've tried using a different PSU (Same 750w, different brand), I've tried it with one stick of RAM and the other, Taken the graphics card out, re-applied thermal paste on the CPU, All temps are fine (I don't have to be playing games, i could be sat idle and it will still turn off)...
I was originally thinking it's the PSU that's failing but now i'm thinking it's my motherboard. Thankfully i'm replacing it soon, but this has been a very trying period.

I think I ruined my motherboard

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