I think my MacBook Air has a virus or something?
I used to watch the OC all the time and there was always pop ups but I would just exit out of them. Now everything keeps "quitting unexpectedly" including finder. I tried to restart but it won't let me type in the admin name/password. What do I do?
I'm not sure what "the OC" is. Can you explain? It's unlikely these issues are related, or are caused by malware, but details will help to be sure.
Sounds like you may have some serious system issues or even potentially a hardware issue. Try starting up the machine in safe mode. Does that work?
When you say it won't let you type in your login credentials, do you mean it's not accepting them, or that it simply isn't responding at all to keyboard inputs?
Similar Messages
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I think my MacBook Pro has a Virus.
I've had my pro for over a year now, have updated it to the newest software and everything. Last night my computer looked like it had a mind of it's own. It would open and close different things on my desktop, it wouldn't let me close out of anything or even use my mouse pad correctly, also when in Safari it would zo in and out without me even touching the mouse pad, and would change pages and click on things when I wouldn't even touch the mouse pad. If anyone can help me out with this problem, because I was under the assumption that Macs didn't get virus.
There are several possible causes for this issue. Take each of the following steps that you haven't already tried until it's resolved. Some may not be applicable.
1. Follow the instructions in this support article, and also this one, if applicable. A damaged or defective AC adapter could be the cause, even if it's the right kind.
2. Open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and delete all pointing devices other than the trackpad, if applicable. Disconnect any USB pointing devices. By a "pointing device," I mean a peripheral that moves the cursor in response to user input, such as a trackpad, mouse, trackball, or graphics tablet. A plain keyboard is not a pointing device.
3. Boot in safe mode and test, preferably without launching any third-party applications. If you don't have the problem in safe mode, but it comes back when you reboot as usual, stop here and post your results. If you can't boot in safe mode, do the same. If you booted in safe mode and there was no change, go on to the next step.
4. Reset the System Management Controller.
5. If you're using a Bluetooth trackpad, investigate potential sources of interference, including USB 3 devices.
6. A swollen battery in a portable computer can impinge on the trackpad from below and cause erratic behavior. If you have trouble clicking the trackpad, this is likely the reason. The battery must be replaced without delay.
7. Press down all four corners of the trackpad at once and release. If there's any effect, it's likely to be temporary, and the unit needs to be serviced or replaced.
8. There's a report that a (possibly defective) Thunderbolt Ethernet adapter can cause the built-in trackpad of a MacBook to behave erratically. If you're using such an adapter, disconnect it and test.
9. There's also a report of erratic cursor movements caused by an external display that was connected but not turned on.
10. If none of the above applies, or if you have another reason to think that your computer is being remotely controlled, remove it from the network by turning off Wi-Fi (or your Wi-Fi access point), disconnecting from a Bluetooth network link, and unplugging the Ethernet cable or USB modem, whichever is applicable. If the cursor movements stop at once, you should suspect an intrusion.
11. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine and/or external trackpad tested. -
My MacBook Air has recently started having substantial WiFi connectivity issues. How do I fix this?
For the last couple weeks my MacBook Air has started having some mighty substantial connectivity issues.
When I wake it from sleep, or if I'm using it for an extended period (say, more than 5-10 minutes), the connection will become extremely unreliable. This primarily happens with browsers, or the Twitter application. For example, if I start a call on Skype the call will continue to function just fine, but I won't be able to connect to any websites through any browser. I've tried Safari, Chrome, and Firefox while the connectivity problems are occuring. When they do occur, a full shut down and cold boot are required to make it work again for a short while.
Does anyone know what might be causing this? I've done numerous checks for malware using Clam Xav and Sophos Anti-Virus. (I didn't suspect that this would be the issue, but it was still something that I decided to rule out.) Additionally, I've tried connecting using both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands on my wireless router. Neither seems to be more successful than the other. (Note: The 5GHz works perfectly and without interruption on my iPad and desktop PC. The 2.4GHz works perfectly with my iPhone 4S and Xbox 360. I feel that with that in mind, I can safely rule out the router as the root of the problem. Both of these examples go on for very extended periods of time. I game regularly using both my PC and Xbox 360.)Hi Jollified,
Does your sound work when you try to use head/earphones? If so, try the following:
Plug your Headphones into your Mac.
Play a sound through them (a song for example), then stop the sound.
Make sure 'Preferences' is isn't open. If it is, Quit.
Launch System Preferences > Sounds.
While the Sounds tab is open and set to 'Headphones', pull out the Headphones from the jack.
You should see your Mac reset to 'Internal Speakers'
Also, I see you have tried resetting the PRAM, have you tried resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)? Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac - Apple Support
As for your MacBook not sleeping when you close the lid, there are many reasons this can occur.
First of all, check out Apples article on the issue: OS X Yosemite: If your Mac won’t go to or stay in sleep If you find these steps don't help, try a few of the following:
A common cause for the Mac not sleeping is your printer. If there are queued jobs waiting to be printed, but your printer is switched off, for some reason you Mac just wont like it and simply will not go to sleep. System Preferences > Print and Scan > Open Print Queue
Do you have an Ethernet Cable connected? People have reported in the past that removing their Ethernet allowed their Mac to sleep. This goes for other things you may have connected directly to your Mac also.
Try heading into your Mac Preferences > Sharing and deselecting 'Internet Sharing' as well as 'Printer Sharing'.
Also deselect Wake For Network Access by heading to System Preferences > Energy Saver > Power Adapter > Wake For Network Access.
Energy Saver > Schedule > Startup or Wake - Uncheck.
Alternatively, set your system preferences to Never Sleep, and put into Sleep manually: System Preferences > Energy Saver > Computer Sleep > Never.
Good luck! -
MacBook Air has been overheating
It seems as if my 13" MacBook Air has been overheating since I downloaded Lion. It happens as soon as I open the cover and sometimes I can smell an electrical burning smell. If that happens, I immediately turn it off & let it cool down. It's gotten to the point where I can't use it for more than a few minutes.
Thanks everyone!Hi Everybody,
Thanks for your replies to start with.
I have tried to install Coolbook now and has it running. When using 'throttling' and letting it change CPU speeds (I think..) the problem still remains. When watching a video or other demanding task the temperature goes way up. Running a CPUTest (small or big) gets CPU temperatures of up to 84-85 C. Fan of course at 6200rpm all the time.
Right now, I have Coolbook set to 800Mhz and 0.9V. Apps running are Firefox, Skype, Mail and iTunes with no audio playing. CPU temperature at 56 c and fan speed (as usual) at 6200rpm. I can use the computer now. It is still lagging and not very fast at all. Sometimes text appear 1-2 seconds after I have written it on the keyboard.
So Coolbook has made a difference for me, but only when putting the CPU speed down to 800MHz. I wouldn't call reducing the CPU speed to half a 'solution' though and will not keep that as a long term solution. Reducing voltages for higher CPU-speeds 0.9875V for 1600MHz does not work, it still heats up massively.
Have used the MBA for the whole day today and can't recall a single time the fan has not been around 6200rpm except right after boot.
Thanks for the tips on upgrading to 10.5.8. I will try that right away and let you know how it works out.
Have also considered buying some cooling device but just as you say that feels like a bit of a last thing to resort to.
I'm surprised Apple hasn't responded stronger to this. Had this happened in the car industry we would have seen thousands of cars being sent back to the garage to be fixed.
If this only has to do with some specific production weeks then the right thing to do would be for Apple to let those people have their computers either fixed or replaced. -
My macbook air has a strange noise
My macbook air has been making a noise sometimes. I upload a video so you can listen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wum4vd7Aimo&feature=plcp
I dont think it is the fan, it doesn't sound like that... anyway, it is at 1997 RPM right now and there is this disturbing noise.
Thanks you in advance!They are the fans. Reset the SMC > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964?viewlocale=en_US
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hi, my macbook air has no longer free memory space. I haven`t done anything since it started to comunicate me that. now when i turn it on all i can see is de apple on the top left corner and the rest of the monitor is blue. how can i get some memory space since i can`t even onpen the finder?/
Choose Preferences from the Finder menu, click on the General tab, and uncheck the box to open folders in a new tab.
(117195) -
My MacBook Air has OSX Version 10.9 and suddenly I can no longer access iPhoto. THe message says, 'You can't use this version of the applicaitonn iPhot with this version of OS X. You have iphoto 9.3.2." When I try to update iPhoto, I get a message saying I signed in with a different apple ID and password. This all happened about the same time I got a new iphone. The iPhoto icon has a circle with a line through it.
southiechics wrote:
HEY APPLE! We need help with this. I'm having the same problem. What gives?
Start a new discussion and post it in the iPhoto forum.
Ciao. -
Hi, my built in webcam has stopped working on Skype following an update. Does this mean my macbook air has blocked videochat on skype? How can I fix this problem?
See this thread:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5306216?tstart=0
FIX:
1. You need Time Machine
2. Go to folder /Library/CoreMediaIO/Plug-Ins/DAL/
3. Copy AppleCamera.plugin to good place (usb memory stick is the best place).
4. Go to Time machine in date that skype work fine.
5. Change AppleCamera.plugin with file from Time Machine
6. Restart system, Now skype need to work with camera.
If that doesnt pass,
Suggest looking here, much success has been found:
http://community.skype.com/t5/Mac/OS-X-10-8-5-broke-Video-on-MacBook-Air/td-p/18 91729/page/4 -
my mac book air has a virus which is creating a lot of issues...how do i get rid of it? is there a free software to detect it and remove it?
There is no need to download anything to solve this problem.
You may have installed one or more of the common types of ad-injection malware. Follow the instructions on this Apple Support page to remove it. It's been reported that some variants of the "VSearch" malware block access to the page. If that happens, start in safe mode by holding down the shift key at the startup chime, then try again.
Back up all data before making any changes.
One of the steps in the article is to remove malicious Safari extensions. Do the equivalent in the Chrome and Firefox browsers, if you use either of those. If Safari crashes on launch, skip that step and come back to it after you've done everything else.
If you don't find any of the files or extensions listed, or if removing them doesn't stop the ad injection, ask for further instructions.
Make sure you don't repeat the mistake that led you to install the malware. It may have come from an Internet cesspit such as "Softonic" or "CNET Download." Never visit either of those sites again. You might also have downloaded it from an ad in a page on some other site. The ad would probably have included a large green button labeled "Download" or "Download Now" in white letters. The button is designed to confuse people who intend to download something else on the same page. If you ever download a file that isn't obviously what you expected, delete it immediately.
Malware is also found on websites that traffic in pirated content such as video. If you, or anyone else who uses the computer, visit such sites and follow prompts to install software, you can expect more of the same, and worse, to follow. Never install any software that you downloaded from a bittorrent, or that was downloaded by someone else from an unknown source.
In the Security & Privacy pane of System Preferences, select the General tab. The radio button marked Anywhere should not be selected. If it is, click the lock icon to unlock the settings, then select one of the other buttons. After that, don't ignore a warning that you are about to run or install an application from an unknown developer.
Still in System Preferences, open the App Store or Software Update pane and check the box marked
Install system data files and security updates (OS X 10.10 or later)
or
Download updates automatically (OS X 10.9 or earlier)
if it's not already checked. -
Now i want to burn it to a dvd using a flashdrive and burning it on another PC that has a burner. Does anyone know how i can do this? My macbook air HAS IDVD....
Here are dedicated discussion forums for iMovie and iDVD, where you might more likely find help.
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My MacBook Air has a blinking file folder icon on a blank screen with a ? In the middle of the icon. I've tried turning my computer off and on three times with no luck. Any recommendations on how to fix the problem?
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1. -
The display on my MacBook Air has recently started flashing. Are there any fixes that I might try before sending it in for repair?
The display on my MacBook Air has recently started flashing. Are there any fixes that I might try before sending it in for repair?
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How come my macbook air has so little space. I deleted everything that I don't need and everything that has the most space I'm told NOT to delete. Everything I find is in either KB or very low MB.
Check what is in your SSD/ storage on your macbook Apple Icon > about this mac > more info > STORAGE tab on top
recommend handy useful APPS such as :
Disk Expert
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/disk-expert/id488920185?mt=12
Disk Map
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/disk-map/id715464874?mt=12
dont need them, but theyre very useful.
also the best is DAISY DISK
https://itunes.apple.com/app/daisydisk/id411643860?mt=12&ign-mpt=uo%3D4
See here for answer about the OTHER which is taking up space:
http://pondini.org/TM/30.html
and here:
http://pondini.org/OSX/DiskSpace.html
See Kappys excellent note on the rest of “other” files taking up your space:
What is "Other" and What Can I Do About It?
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage. -
my macbook air has gotten slow this past week i have changed browsers and the beach ball keeps coming up all the time and on a game i play it says the network is slow can anyone help me
Go step by step and test.
Restart the router. Restart the computer.
OS X 10.7 Lion / 10.8. Mountain Lion
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH3915
Start up in Safe Mode.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH4373
Repair Disk
Steps 1 through 7
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH5836?viewlocale=en_US
Reset SMC.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
Increase Disk Space
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH10677?viewlocale=en_US
Best. -
My MacBook Air has reverted to iphoto 7 and seems resistant to upgrade. I am on OS X 10.7.5, and in the process of upgrading to Maverick. Any ideas?
Nope
for sure iphoto did not "revert" to a previous version - if the version has changed it is due to something you did and you need to share that
What exactly is your problem? To upgrade to Mavericks backup yoru system and download and install OS X 10.9.x Mavericks - then purchase iphtoo '11 Version 9.5.x from the app store and install it - tehn download and run the library upgrader (it is downloaded to the utilities folder in your aplicatiosn folder) and then launch iPhoto '11 version 9.5.x to finish the upgrade
LN
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