I want to buy high resolution mu

I made a search on this before posting but didn't find what I was looking for. I bought the Audigy 4 a while back and really enjoy the performance and quality. When I bought this sound card it came with a DVD 24 bit music sampler. I've been shopping on the web and in?stores for high resolution music (24 bit, or "aiff" format)?and can't believe I have found none. Is it me?not looking at the right place or is this not available on the market yet?thanks?

The only "hi def" music you'll find will be super audio CD's and DVD audio "CD's". I doubt you will find anything in an uncompressed format online as that would take up way too much storage space and bandwidth.
SACD's are "better" because they offer an enormously high sample rate. 2.xxx MHz, I can't remember the exact rate. It also has a bit rate of only . DVD "CD's" (which aren't CD's at all) can hold more data, so the songs can be recorded in a much higher sample rate over conventional CD's. You won't, however, be able to play them on normal CD players, and it would be impracticable to rip them to your computer.

Similar Messages

Help High Resolution Thumbnails - Taking forever!!

I have 1700 photos in my iPhoto libarry. When I open the app today, I was asked if I wanted to generate high resolution thumbnails. (I had been asked before but clicked - Ask Later). Today, with no much happening, I said yes.
It's been almost 4 hours - and the status bar has not even moved 1/2".
I've searched the data base and have seen that it can take some time - especially for poeple with large libraries. But 1700 photos and 4 hours. That just does not seem right.
Any ideas? Just have patience? Or is there a problem?
Tim

Hi Tim,
What ultimately happened? I have a brand new MBPr and roughly 4,000 photos... A few hours here and my progress bar is "stuck" on 95+%...
Keith

Want a High Resolution LED Display

Hi,
I am considering of buying a T400 soon, probably this summer. My major concern about the matter is that the WXGA+ (high resolution 1440x900) display is no longer available, on both US and Canadian website. From what I read in this forum, such spec is discontinous, and I am frankly very disapointed. Basically, I consider that as a deal breaker. A choice to make between resolution and display brightness + power saving is a decision I can not make with my conscious mind.
I really hope that the high res LED display will be back soon, and I would appreciate a representitive from lenovo to confirm this.
I heard there are numerous issue related to the LG vs. Samsung LEDs and also the negative feedback on the keyboard issue since the launch of new T400. As the Flagship of the range, I truely hope that the Thinkpad engineering team do not repeat silly mistakes like these to ruin the name of Thinkpad.
thanks

Yes Trevor thats me! I thought that was you! How are you doing?? Great to hear from you :-)
A couple of things as i stayed up late last night looking around.....
I have looked at the Dell Precision M4700 and because its got the older processors & its not as expensive as the M4800 but would seem to work well for me. Im looking for something that is not too high a resolution like 1920x1080 (and even that is pushing it on a 15.6" screen im sure), good viewing angles, lots of RAM, decent NITS, decent sRGB coverage and that wont break the bank. Easy chore huh?
I think with this purchase im going to have to make some compromises and by getting this machine i think i will be ok. Im sure they will probably come out with a high resolution fix the day i get my lower resolution display but hey, thats the way it goes huh?
Im using a very old MacBook Pro right now that is 1200x800 and it is excellent so im sure i'll be fine with a 1920x1080 display.
One thing that has me confused is when i look at Dell's website it states that all of their machines are approved for Photoshop CS6. Kind of funny they would say that if that includes the high rez version no?
Also, they have something called an "optimizer" which i beleive is software that works with your computer to optimize it for certain applications on the fly. It lists it as working well with Photoshop. That would in no way be a solution to the high rez display issues would it?
I even saw a video that had the highest resolution display with Photoshop on it and it looked fine! Did they Photoshop that??
Any insight you can give me before i pull the trigger would be most appreciated. I am getting a Windows machine because i have to run QuickBooks for Windows on it and i dont want to use Parallels or Boot Camp. Just me but i dont like the idea of doing that (i know im wierd!)
Hope to hear from you all soon!
Thank you so much for the great help!
best to you,
rick

I am trying to save a photoshop CS6 psd file to jpg and get an option jpg, jpg2000 or jpg stereo, I choose jpg and then Mac 256 colours, normal or interlaced. I just want regular jpg with a high resolution. What am I doing wrong, never had this problem

I am trying to save a photoshop CS6 psd file to jpg and get an option jpg, jpg2000 or jpg stereo, I choose jpg and then Mac 256 colours, normal or interlaced. I just want regular jpg with a high resolution. What am I doing wrong? , never had this problem before. Help!!!

Your description of the issue is not clear:
What format, bit depth and color was your original file "from the net"? It sounds like it was a Color Indexed GIF, which would cause what you are describing.
In the Macintosh Finder, select said "net image" and do a Get Info on it (Command+i). When the Info box appears in the Finder, take a screen shot and upload it here by using the little camera icon in the Reply Editor in the forum's web interface.
If the image is a 256-color GIF, remember the rule: GIGO = garbage in, garbage out.

Want a higher resolution image of an email Collage (Created in iPhoto)

Situation:
I created the image below using a iPhoto template (Cork Board) in the (Share -> mail) option. Unfortunately the resolution of the final image is pretty low. (Final image is just 434 kb)
Problem:
I want to take canvas print of a size of at least 12 X 16. My local photo shop tells me that I need a higher resolution image for a clear print.
Can somebody help me figure a way to increase the resolution of this image??

That template is designed just for emailing and not for printing at the recipients end as the actual image files are added to the email as attachments.
If you want to create a stylish 12 x16 or larger poster use an application designed for that. You could use Pages (part of iWork) to create a poster with fancy frames, background etc. For posters with just many photos OmniGraffle is a very good application (but maybe a bit pricey). I created this 20 x 30 poster with it:
Click to view full size
But Pages would give you the most possibilities for design.
OT

Want to buy the new MacBook Air 13in i5 processor, but I have to know if this will run RuneScape on high quality SMOOTHLY. Thank you

Want to buy the new MacBook Air 13in i5 processor, but I have to know if this will run RuneScape on high quality SMOOTHLY. Thank you

I can say World of Warcraft runs smooth.

Why am I am getting high resolution signals on any of my photos that I want to print how do I remedy this problem so that I can print photos and also make a book

How can I change my photos from high resolution to be able to print them or put them into a tabletop book?

You're going to need to explain this a bit better
What are "high resolution signals"? How are you printing? Why would you want to change your photos from high resolution for printing, they higher the resolution the better they will print.
Regards
TD

Want to put low resolution photo that was emailed to me on canvas. Can it be saved at higher resolution in elements 10?

I was emailed a photo that I would like to print on canvas, but it is only 746 kb and will be grainy on a large 11x14 or 16x20 canvas. Can it be saved as a higher resolution photo with Elements 10?

Hi,
You may increase the resolution of the photo, but, even with Adobe powerfull rezising algorithm, it is not possible to (re)create details that have disappeared when the photo was shrunk.
The photo will appear blurry.
The best solution is to ask to send you a higher less compressed version of the photo.

How to fix lost connections to original high-resolution pictures in iPhoto and how to import an iPhoto Book from one iPhoto library to another

Hi there,
I am using a MBP Pro with 8 GB cache and 1 TB HDD from beginning of 2011 with OS X Yosemite and iPhoto version 9.6 (910.29).
I created an iPhoto Book to print which contains my best pictures of 2013 and 2014. Then I got an error message when I wanted to print the book, saying (translated from German):
Book could not be created.
With photo p233432343.jpg there was an error. The original version of that photo with full resolution could not be found or is damaged. Please replace the photo or delete it from your book.
When I enquired further, I found out, that many, many pictures in my iPhoto library have that problem - only the thumbnail picture is found by iPhoto, but not the one with the high resolution. When looking at the photos in detail one sees that they are not sharp because obviously the photo book only refers to the thumbnail. When I went into the iPhoto Library using Finder, I saw that the original high res photos are still there. As there are an estimated 3000 photos with a lost connection (some still have, it but about 1/2 of my photos don´t), it does not make sense to import those photos manually. This photo book is just the tip of the iceberg, so to say.
Then I looked for solutions in some forums. I had two lPhoto libraries, one on my HDD (120GB) and one on an external HDD (175GB). Assuming there might be problems, I have deleted (moved) the one on my HDD, because the "right one" is the one on my external HDD and started iPHoto again using the alt key. But that did not work either.
I then tried to repair my iPhoto library using iPhoto Library Manager, and merged and rebuilt libraries. The library that came out was crap - all folders that had lost connections to the high resolution pictures now have zero photos in it. Also it is lacking the projects, including the photo book I created.
Then I went to find out if there is a way to import the iphoto book project from the old, corrupt library into the new, repaired library but could not find anything. It can only be exported as a file structure or website. As the file structure is missing the high res pictures, that does not even solve the "little" problem of the photobook.
I would REALLY appreciate your help on the two questions:
1- Can you advise what I need to to do to to get the connection to the high resolution photos established again ? As it is more than 3000 photos, I use an automated way of reestablishing that connection. Probably an answer to this question would make question 2 irrelevant.
2- Do you know if there is a way to export and import a book project created in iPhoto from one library to another ?

1 - Select the thumbnail of one of the problem photos and use the File ➙ Reveal in Finder ➙ Original menu option. This will take you to the folder containing the original file with that file selected by the Finder.
You can also use Find Any File to search for that file (get the file name from the Info pane in iPhoto). You will find the thumbnail version and maybe an edited version also. Made sure what is found is the large, original version and note were it's located. Search all of your drives with FAF just in case.
If you don't fine the full sized version then the only recourse is to use a file recovery application like SubrosaSoft FileSalvage on your drives to see if any of your full sized photos can be recovered. If you find enough files to make the purchase of the software worthwhile buy it and recover the files. However, since it may have been quite a while since you discovered the missing originals it seems unlikely you'll be able to recover any due to being overwritten.
2 - book projects are just entries in the library databases and can't be exported to another library.

Increasing physical dimensions of high resolution image?

I have an image that I want to use in a video, though it is not physically large enough to fill the 1920 x 1080 dimensions of the video, though it has a 300ppi resolution and video only needs 72ppi. How do I take advantage of the fact that it is high resolution image, and increase the physical dimensions of the image? Is there a way to do this?
Thanks.

Hi Marian.
Thanks for the excellent link. And I believe it is spot on.
***Warning: This is an off topic rant. And it's over 500 words.***
I did not get my first computer until 2001. Although I am a scientist at heart (university trained in chemistry and physics), and quite comfortable with technology, there was something deep within me that was resistant to buying a computer. Almost an inner foreboding. Even though I had already been using corporate computer nets (not the internet) since 1979, the PC seemed ominous to me.
And the internet seemed even more ominous. To the point that I didn't hook up to the web until 2006. I had a sense that the web was a double edged sword, and had the potential to diminish its users. Even though I had never been on line and had very little idea of what it was really all about. What I found was what I feared. A wasteland punctuated by oases of useful information. A wasteland in the literal sense. For every second saved on the task at hand, a minute is wasted by the distractions that bombard us on the way to saving that second.
I'm not saying that the web is bad. Just that it's fraught with danger. And the worst danger is the notion that a concrete answer to every question is just a Google away. And with that, the odieous notion that every question can be answered comprehensively in one quarter of an internet page, leaving the rest for advertising.
I do quite a bit of writing, and my first experience at writing for the internet was a disaster. Among other things, I am a fly fishing guide. A new internet fly fishing magazine had requested I submit a series of articles. Personal anecdotes about my experiences. The first article I submitted was about 2400 words. They loved it, but they said it said it was too long. So, I did a rewrite. It came in at 1800 words. And the rewrite took more time and effort than writing the original 2400 words. And the article was diminished. And still too long. They wanted it shorter.
At this point, I dug in my heels. I admitted I understood such constraints on paper publishing, but how could they insist on such constraints on web publishing? How much does is cost to add a web page to an article? It's just another page they could slather with advertising. To which they replied, no one will read an article longer than 1200 words. I was flabbergasted. I like long articles and books. I'm bummed when I come to the end. In the end, these folks had an editor hack it down to 1200 words and publish it over my signature without my knowledge or permission. When I saw the article, I was appalled. I didn't recognize it. And demanded they take it down.
Maybe the publisher was right about his readers having short attention spans. I hope not, but I'm afraid it's true. And this mindset is the 500 pound gorilla in the room that few want to address.
I'm not by any stretch suggesting we should turn back the clock of progress. Only that we need to be aware of the negative potential of any new technology. And resist that negative potential with all our hearts. Or our minds will suffer.
FWIW.
Peace,
Lee

I want to buy a MacBook Pro, but is it worth it?

The computer I buy is going to be my computer through High School and hopefully College, but a MacBook Pro is around $1000 to $1300 dollars right? So is it worth the cost?

ConnorJ777 wrote:
The computer I buy is going to be my computer through High School and hopefully College
A MacBook Pro will last about 3-5 years depending upon use and abuse about the same with a quality PC laptop.
AppleCare will cover factory defects for 3 years, after that your coasting on your wear and tear upon the machine, which the keyboard, trackpad, ports and optical drive would likely suffer the most it has been in my experience.
In my honest opinion, being a Mac user from day one and using PC's, unless you buy the near top end model Mac's, your really screwing yourself with the lower priced models.
So anything 13" and under in the Mac laptops you can do a HECK of a lot better with a Windows 7 laptop PC of the similar specifications. Instead of paying $1600 you could be paying $400-800.
The trouble with PC's you have to do your home work to make sure your getting a quality product, a high resolution screen on Windows 7 looks fantastic just like it does on OS X.
So unless your willing to spend over $2000 for 15" or 17" MacBook Pro + Windows 7 to keep your skills up, you likely should just get a Windows 7 laptop PC to begin with.
Better to "fit in", at college you can do almost what you want as long as you pass the classes, but when you apply for a job you need to play the part and have a appropriate looking machine to match, as the choice in platforms tells volumes about the person.
Usually creatives use Mac's, that's their symbol. Engineers use Windows for CAD/CAM and it's hardware is based a lot on interfacing with Windows and generic PC's, which a Mac is not, even though it can run Windows.
So a engineer using a Mac would be sending a signal your a administrative engineer, one who has experience already and is now telling others what to do, as you don't need to interface with CAD/CAM or other hardware and thus can afford to carry a status symbol around, being a expensive Mac. Naturally you haven't reached this stage yet as your not even in college yet, so arriving on the job with a Mac would be the wrong choice for a recent college engineering grad.
However arriving on the job at a top ad agency with a Windows PC insted of a Mac would be viewed as inappropriate, because Mac's are viewed as the creatives choice for generating content.
So when choosing a platform your also sending a signal, so it's likely best to have both skills under your belt, question you need to ask is what do you want to do, what are your skils. Then you can get a idea which platform is best for you. I advise both, but I don't advise ignoring Windows, only do that if you can afford to do so.

Creating a High Resolution DVD in Encore 2.0 built in AfterEffects

I recently created a high resolution 2 minute movie in After Effects and rendered at a fairly high resolution (Composition size is 1650 x 1275) with Sorensen 3 with high quality settings. The final movie is 1650 x 1275 and about 300mb, it plays great in quicktime.
I need to create a high resolution auto-play DVD in Adobe Encore 2.0, but when I try to import the movie as an asset into Encore, I get a prompt that says "must be a 720 x 480 or 720 x 485 to read."
Ultimatly I went back and re-rendered out of After-Effects at 720 x 480, and the DVD works but it doesn't have the quality I want.
Am I missing something here when I output from After Effects or when I import to Encore? I was told I should build my movie (composition) at 1650 x 1275 pixels because it was DVD quality.
I am a newby. Please help if you can. Also, does anyone have a good book to recommend?

720x480 is the *only* serious resolution to use in DVD-Video.
You can use half-size, but I seriously doubt this would be of any interest to you even if it were supported.
As far as CS3 goes, we'll have to wait & see when it is released. I doubt it will have HD DVD capability, as burners are still pretty much vapourware.
Blu Ray is the only option left, and again the problems you will face are huge. Most Blu Ray players still are not at all happy with BD-R discs, and those that will require firmware updates to make it all work. Also, the spec is changing on October 31 making all current players obsolete at the drop of a hat. This is to enable BD-i and BD-Java support for things like P-I-P (Picture in Picture) amongst others. Players that are considered to be older will not get firmware updates, forcing early adopters to buy new machines.
Getting content replicated will also be problematic. Sony DADC are the sole licensees, with the *possible* exception of large companies like SonoPress, and it is very expensive. Here in the UK the up-front fee for the licenses alone is £20,000 according to our replication company, but I have already written to Sony DADC asking for detailed prices to be certain. I will post those when I get them.
Again, Pre Mastering is also another problem. The discs have to be
i perfect
or they will be rejected.
Lots & lots of luck.
You're going to need it.

Is high resolution display for macbook pro 15 available in india?

i was planing to buy a macbook pro 15 in in india but i really want a high resolution display.

There is no Apple Store in India yet, may be soon.
But there are stores that sell Apple products.
Contact them and find out about the products they carry.
Below find the link.
http://www.techpluto.com/apple-store-india/

I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog. Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog. Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

Welcome to the Apple Community.
It's do-able, but I don't think it's a great idea.
DVI
Some users with DVI have managed to get their TV's to work with DVI-HDMI cables. DVI carries no audio, so alternative connections need to be explored to enable audio. DVI doesn't necessarily support HDCP as well as other standards used by HDMI (which may or may not be an issue)
Analogue
There are hardware converters that will convert HDMI to various other types of output, however there are some issues with doing so that you should be aware of.
HDCP
HDCP compliant converters will not allow you to watch HDCP protected content such as that from the iTunes Store. Non compliant converters exist but we cannot discuss them under the Terms of Use for these communities.
Resolution and aspect ratio
I'm not aware of any converters that will scale the output from the Apple TV, any TV or projector which is used will need to be widescreen and support resolutions of 720p (Apple TV 2), 720p/1080p (Apple TV 3)
DAC
DAC (Example Only - Not a recommendation or suggestion that this is suitable in your circumstances)

Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives:  None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income.   Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location:  This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description:  Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value.  $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy.  Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance

Georgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho.  2. Credit Negatives:  Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying.  5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval  8. Location:  Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy.   Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage.  ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth

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