I7-2600k and P67A-GD65 (B3) OC Vdroop voltage offset?

I'm looking to get a stable 42x OC out of my 2600k, I'm using a P67A-GD65(B3) with the latest BIOS(4.3). I currently have a 40x OC via the turbo multipliers. I want the CPU to underclock and undervolt when idle in the interest of heat and lifespan, so I want to leave the multiplier and vcore on Auto. Currently, auto vcore with this 40x OC results in 1.256V under full load. With a manual OC (multiplier and vcore), I was able to get 40x stable at 1.185V.
I understand this motherboard does not have a voltage offset function, but from my research Vdroop can do a similar thing? If I wanted to offset my vcore by -0.050V what would I set the Vdroop to?

Quote from: Chike on 30-March-15, 04:37:00
Vdroop should never be negative, but why not just vcore to whatever you want?
With EIST and c-state CPU multiplier and voltages should change according to load.
I know but with vcore on auto it uses a lot more voltage than is necessary. I want to use as little voltage as possible to keep temperatures down and have the CPU last a while.
When I manually set vcore, the CPU will underclock when idle, but voltage will stay at whatever value I set. I have all the power saving stuff, EIST, C1E, C-state, etc enabled.
My question is if it is possible to use the Vdroop function to decrease the voltage under load?

Similar Messages

High voltage on Low Vdroop Setting P67A-GD65 + 2600k

Dear members of the MSI-HQ user forum,
My attempts on overclocking my 2600k processor has been stalled for quite some time now.
I've been at 4.3GHz for a very long time because I wish to keep my Vcore set on Auto (I don't want my voltage set manually because it will remain at that voltage all the time).
I've been playing around with a lot of settings and none of them have worked.
The main problem is I want to be stable at 4.3GHz but with Vdroop set to Auto, it will only deliver 1.288V during a Prime95 torture test. 1.288V is not enough because after 10 min. I will get the 0x124 Bluescreen, which is too little Vcore. I have manually found out that 1.296V will do the trick! But again this is set manual... After switching to Vdroop set to Low Vdroop the Vcore voltage JUMPS to 1.42V during stress test (Prime95 & IBT)!! Waaaay too high. This will only get worse if I set my processor speed to 4.4GHz, Vcore will then be 1.44/1.45V and so on..
Bios is updated to version 1.H. I updated from 1.8 to 1.C to 1.H, didn't make any difference. I've also played around with bios settings but nothing solves my problem. Eup 2013, spread spectrum, C1E, Overspeed protection all disabled. Tried all C1 states. PLL overvoltage disabled & enabled. Memory both tested @ 1333MHz & 1600MHz auto&linked settings (according to spec). And so on.
I really want to overclock further then 4.3GHz (at least that one stable) using Auto Vcore. Or my voltage is too low (Vdroop set to auto) or too high (Vdroop set to Low). Please help :(
My system specs are:
Windows 7 64Bit
Intel i7 2600k
MSI P67A-GD65 (B3)
Corsair XMS3 8GB 1600MHz dual channel memory kit

To quote from a recent Ivye Bridge article:
Quote
Today Intel defines three different voltages for every Sandy Bridge CPU: LFM, nominal and turbo. LFM is the lowest frequency the CPU can run at (e.g. completely idle), nominal is the frequency it is specified to run at (e.g. 3.3GHz for a 2500K) and turbo is the highest available turbo frequency (e.g. 3.7GHz for a 2500K). Intel determines the lowest voltage possible for each one of those frequencies. Sandy Bridge obviously runs at more than just three frequencies, there are many more intermediate frequencies that it may run at depending on the current workload. The voltages at those intermediate frequencies are interpolated from the three points that I mentioned above.
There is no definition above that, and it becomes an extrapolation of a voltage above 3,7GHz. Considering that each CPU has slightly different characteristics, even within the defined frequency range, there is no knowing what each one will do and require outside that range. So the required voltage at those overclocked frequencies can vary quite a bit, and the extrapolated voltage range in auto voltage mode at a given frequency may not be enough for the individual sample, furthermore, it is limited in terms of the maximum it will consider and apply in auto mode. Once that critical point is reached, one has to be satisfied or resort to manual intervention.

What is the difference between MSI P67A-GD65 with P67A-GD65(B3)

please help me

Quote
P67A and P67A-GD65-GD65 (B3)
What exactly are you talking about?
Quote
please help me
Help you with what? Help you how?

MOVED: what is the difference between MSI P67A-GD65 with P67A-GD65(B3)

This topic has been moved to Intel Core-iX boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=148725.0

Quote
P67A and P67A-GD65-GD65 (B3)
What exactly are you talking about?
Quote
please help me
Help you with what? Help you how?

P67A GD65, OC genie 2 button in Control Center, doesn't boot anymore

My conf. (sorry I don't speak english):
i7 2600k
MSI P67A-GD65
2x2GB Kingston Hyperblu PC-1600
SSD Vertex II 160GB
Gygabyte gtx 560TI SOC
- OC Genie 2 in motherboard pressed
- Yesterday in Windows 7 x64, I clicked the OC genie button in control center, I click on no reboot, I click again on the oc genie button (to leave it as it was), no reboot. All OK. Today PC can't boot anymore: fans on, 6 phases leds on, 6 phases GTX leds on, no USB, no video...
What I can do, or did I broke the motherboard with two mouse clicks?

do >>Clear CMOS Guide<< with power cord removed
also what psu you use?

P67a-GD65 System Freezes and Recovers During 3D gaming and Online Video

The Problem:
Temporary system freeze with audio stutter. The system recovers 30sec - 2min later.
Key presses made during freeze will execute after system recovers (ctrl+alt+delete for example)
Usually, but not always, I see an error message in the system tray and I do NOT experience bsod.
This happens seemingly at random from 3D accelerated applications, and web browsing. Games such as BF3 (moderate), WoW (seldom), Planetside 2 (frequently), Minecraft (seldom), Hawken (seldom), etc.
Also happens frequently in both Internet Explorer 9/10, Firefox, Chrome, and Steam store browser. Typically when watching steaming video (youtube, HULU, flow player, etc)
but Pandora audio streaming also seems to create the conditions where this happens.
Error Message:
"Display driver stopped responding and has recovered
Display driver NVIDIA Windows Kernal Mode Driver 314.07 stopped
responding and has successfully recovered"
The problem also shows up in the Windows reliability history with the following data:
Source
Windows
Summary
Video hardware error
Date
‎3/‎6/‎2013 9:11 PM
Status
Not reported
Description
A problem with your video hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.
Problem signature
Problem Event Name:   LiveKernelEvent
OS Version:   6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
Locale ID:   1033
Files that help describe the problem
WD-20130306-2010.dmp
sysdata.xml
WERInternalMetadata.xml
Extra information about the problem
BCCode:   117
BCP1:   FFFFFA8011E0C4E0
BCP2:   FFFFF8800654A198
BCP3:   0000000000000000
BCP4:   0000000000000000
OS Version:   6_1_7601
Service Pack:   1_0
Product:   768_1
My System Hardware:
CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.5ghz
Motherboard: MSI p67a-gd65 (B3 stepping)
Memory: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: Originally MSI 6950 2GB. Replaced with EVGA 670 FTW 2GB.
PSU: CORSAIR HX Series HX850 850W
HDD: 3x Western Digital WD RE4 WD5003ABYX 500GB in Raid 0
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 with all updates
Case/Cooling: Silverstone Raven 2E with Thermalright silver arrow cpu heatsink
What I've tried:
Updated all motherboard drivers and bios (4.3) to current versions (no improvement)
Updated display drivers (in safe mode with driver sweeper. No improvement)
Updated Realtek Audio drivers for onboard sound (no improvement)
Updated Intel Rapid Storage drivers (no improvment)
Cleared CMOS and tested system at default settings with no overlock (no improvement)
Flashed 6950 back to 6950 stock bios and removed overclock (no improvement)
Replaced old 6950 with new GTX 670 (problem still occurs in the same exact way)
Tried GPU in 2nd PCIe slot. No improvement.
Checked GPU Temps. GTX 670 fan profile in EVGA Precision X set to keep temp below 70 degrees Celcius. Card maxes at 60 degrees under heavy gaming load.
Complete reformat of raid array with fresh install of Windows (4 different times) Seemed to help for a few days, then freezes came back
Ran OCCT and Prime 95 Torture tests separately for a few hours at stock and OC settings. System stable with core temps of high 50's overclocked, and low 40's stock.
Ran Memtest86 for 10 hours with zero errors.
Used digital multimeter to test 12v rail on PSU. Noted solid 12v reported. Didn't test other rails.
Unplugged PSU cables from motherboard and reattached firmly
Ran HD Tune and Data Life Guard Tools for error checking on hard disks. Zero errors found.
Disabled Windows Aero (no improvement)
Updated Adobe Flash Player to latest setting (no improvement)
Removed Adobe Flash Player (no improvement)
Turned off Adobe Flash hardware acceleration (no improvement)
*EDIT: Forgot that I also adjusted Nvidia driver profiles for apps that have frozen to include power preference to max performance
All of my hardware with the exception of the new 670 was purchased and configured back in February of 2011. This problem first occured in BF3 multiplayer sometime in early 2012,
and has gradually been happening more frequently. Web searches found many individuals with this error, but the solutions are all over the map, and I've tried just about everything that I've found.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the motherboard, but I just can't find a clear answer or solution. Maybe it's the raid array? I really thought replacing the GPU would solve my trouble here
and I was...NOT happy when it happened again with the new 670 that I scored for $250 after amazon gift cards. I typically get kicked/disconnected during online game play when this happens and I'm ready to be done with it. I was hoping to fix the issue without needing to buy new hardware, but I don't see any other way at this point.
My patience runs thin. Please help!

Quote from: Froggy Gremlin on 11-March-13, 15:28:36
Might want to ask for the special archive to return the mainboard to pre-Ivy support UEFI/BIOS and then test again with everything set to auto/stock/default.
Already tested that before updating to 4.3. I started having the problem on 1.8, then 1.J0, then 4.3.
Quote from: Bernhard on 11-March-13, 15:30:29
Just a shot in the dark.
The length of time that your CPU has been running at the OC could have accelerated the eventual degradation.
Have you tested your CPU in another board or do you have access to a "known good" CPU to test in your system ?
I do not have another 1155 lga board to test the cpu in unfortunately, hence the CPU stress testing. Based upon previous experiences with multiple overclocked systems that I've run at much more aggressive overclocks, I don't believe I'm seeing a processor failure, though I can't rule out the possibility.
Quote from: xmad on 11-March-13, 23:26:01
Quite a few components can cause this.
Do you have a friend that could lend you a psu to test? A weak of failing PSU can often be the cause of something like this?
No I don't have another PSU to test. I did use a digital multimeter to test the 12v rail, as well as the motherboard contacts for testing voltage to the cpu and system They were all right in line with what I'm seeing reported in the bios. I did not test these contacts while the system was under load however, so I may need to do it again.

P67a-GD65 (b3) boot problem (reboot and select proper boot device)

Hello All,
I have the following problem;
When I start my computer sometimes it starts normal or I get the following warning;
Reboot and select proper boot device.
If this happens, its stays for a few seconds on A2 at the lower right corner , then MSI mainboard screen, and then the above warning.
When i use the reset button, it starts normal or same problem.Sometimes i need to restart it like 5-7 times to get it started normal.
My system info:
Mainboard: MSI P67A-GD65 (MS-7681)
Chipset: Intel Sandy Bridge
Processor: Intel Core i7 2600K @ 3400MHz
Physical Memory: 4096MB (2 x 2048 DDR3-SDRAM)
Video Card: AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series
Hard Disk: Seagate ST31000528AS ATA Device (1000GB)
Hard Disk: Seagate ST3200822AS ATA Device (200GB)
Hard Disk: Seagate ST3200822AS ATA Device (200GB)
DVD-Rom Drive: XMTQ FGPIR0DURGHI
DVD-Rom Drive: Toshiba Samsung SH-S223C CDDVDW
Monitor Type: LG L1915S - 19 inches
Monitor Type: ACER X233H - 23 inches
Network Card: Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter
Network Card: Wireless-N 300 USB Adapter WNA3100
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate Professional, Media Center 6.01.7600 (64 bit)
DirectX: Version 11.00
Windows Performance Index: 5.9 on 7.9
Mainboard bios: 1.9
Hopefully someone can help me.
Thanks,
Tammo

Zalman ZM660-XT
AC Input Range Voltage 100VAC ~ 240VAC ±10% DC Output
Frequency 50Hz~60Hz Output V. Output Load Rating Combined
Power
AC Input Current
(Rated) 115VAC 9.5A Imin Imax Ipeak
230VAC 4A +3.3V 0.8A 30A 35A 155W 660W
PFC Type Active PFC +5V 0.5A 30A 35A
Power Factor 99% Maximum
+12V1 0.5A 20A 22A 636W
Inrush Current Limit
(@ Cold start at 25°C) 115VAC 80A +12V2 0.5A 20A 22A
230VAC 60A +12V3 0.5A 20A 22A
Efficiency 88% Maximum @230VAC, Typical load +12V4 0.5A 20A 22A
DC Output
Voltage
Regulations Output V. Regulation Range At Full
Load -12V 0.0A 0.8A 22.1W
+3.3VDC ±5% +3.14V~+3.47V +5VSB 0.1A 2.5A 3.5A
+5VDC ±5% +4.75V~+5.25V Protection Features
+12V1DC ±5% +11.4V~+12.6V Over Voltage Protection(OVP)
+12V2DC ±5% +11.4V~+12.6V Over Current Protection(OCP)
+12V3DC ±5% +11.4V~+12.6V Short Circuit Protection(SCP)
+12V4DC ±5% +11.4V~+12.6V Over Temperature Protection(OTP)
-12VDC ±10% -10.8V~-13.0V Under Voltage Protection(UVP)
+5VSB ±5% +4.75V~+5.25V Ambient Temperature
DC Output
Ripple
& Noise Output V. Specification At Full
Load Operation 0°C ~ +40°C
+3.3VDC 50mV Storage -20°C ~ +80°C
+5VDC 50mV Ambient Humidity
+12V1&2DC 120mV Operation 5%RH ~ 95%RH
+12V3&4DC 120mV Storage 5%RH ~ 95%RH
-12VDC 120mV Dimensions
+5VSB 50mV 180(L) x 150(W) x 86(H) mm

P67A-GD65 & i7-2600K BIOS update

As the title of this topic states, I have a P67A-GD65 board with an i7-2600K CPU. I read a lot about updating the BIOS to version 4.x (current version is 1.19), but I got confused whether I can safely update the BIOS of my mainboard with this CPU or not. Some people seem to succeed and some don't. Is it possible to update the BIOS from 1.19 to 4.x with this combination of MB and CPU and if so, which exact version should I choose and is there anything I should absolutely not do wrong in the process?

All 4.x bios versions are meant for using Ivy Bridge cpus (ME8). In most cases overclocking Sandy Bridge cpus doesn't work with those or not properly. On the other hand all new versions work that way and a newer version is needed for supporting latest Geforce GTX7x0 vgas. So if you want to use latest stuff on your board switch to the latest bios (4.3). If no hardware change is planned stick to the latest Sandy bios (1.19).
If wanting to upgrade to 4.3 use the attached archive and >>use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<. With the tool point to the attached and NOT unpacked bios archive (Mode1: Point to Archive) and let the tool prepare a flash stick for you.

P67A-GD65/P67A-GD55/P67A-GD53 Vdroop fix

Hi guys,
HQ just released this bios for the P67A-GD65/P67A-GD55/P67A-GD53 which should fix the Vdroop issue.
If someone on the forum wants to try, you can share this bios.
Model: MS-7681 PCB: 1.0/2.0/2.1 Author: Oasis Chen
Old Version: E7681IMS.431 Build Date: 08/23/2012
New Version: E7681IMS.432
Description for FAE:
1.Fix vdroop offset control function can't work normally issue and modify code to avoid chip bug issue.

Quote from: Svet on 09-October-12, 18:51:44
It's universal method and will perform full BIOS chip update[include required ME update] with regard less of current installed BIOS version
No it will flash only one, active one.
Thank You Svet. It`s nice to have new version of MSI HQ Forum USB flasher with ME update function Great job!
Bit offtop, sorry but I have to ask. Is it technically possible that flasher eventually get option to flash both bios chips on motherboards like P67-GD65?
Or maybe it is good thing that it can flash only one chip for now(?) I do not understand consequences. Pro and cons of having me7 and me8 on pri/sec bios chips?
I do not want to make mistake (using MSI flash procedure) but wanna try new VDroop/Offset feature of Click Bios II. Maybe it will cure my over 1.4V auto voltage on 4,5GHz
PS: Sorry, my English seams to be horrible. I hope You can read my mind, hehe...

MSI P67A-GD65 Turning on and off

Hi ppl,
Well, the thing is like this, I bought a new gaming rig (specs after this chit chat XD) and everytime I start the system it goes on and off (just 1 Power Phase led on when this happens), even when I plug the power cable off the cpu the system will try to start again for the last time. The system turned on just 1 time and let me flashed the BIOS to v.1.7, after that I could start windows 7 without problems then rebooted to make sure everything was ok and everything went crazy again as stated before.
My specs are:
Intel 2600K @stock setting (how couldnt be at stock settings if cant ( ) start my system)
MSI P67A-GD65
Kingwin LZ 1000W (already tested on my cousin PC)
2x4Gb G-SKILL @ Stock Settings (already tried using a single module on all off the slots)
CoolerMaster V6GT Cooler
2x320GB Western Digital 6 Gb/s
CoolerMaster Cosmos S Case (already tried to turn the system on outside of the case)
Well this is it, hope I can get some help.
Thanks.
Edit: Removed foul language
Henry

djmx,
Stop the use of foul language disguised or not.
>> Please read and comply with the Forum Rules <<
Edit: How did you flash BIOS, did you use the forum tool or some other method?

Post and boot P67A GD65 B3

I have a new build and when I reboot or cold boot the power phase lights (to phase 5) come on for a brief second,and then it powers off and then it will boot fine. Is this normal? It does this every-time.
MSI P67A-GD65 B3 MOBO
i7 2600K 3.4 GHz,Quad Core Unlocked LGA1155 Sandy Bridge CPU
16GBs 4X4, G.Skill Rip Jaws DDR3 1333 RAM
EVGA GeForce GTX 550ti GPU
Corsair AX 1200 PSU
Coolermaster H70 Hydro cooler
4 WD 1Tb Caviar Black SATA 6 = 3TBs with RAID5
Coolermaster HAF X 922 Chassis

Disable EuP 2013 in BIOS and see if it still does it.

Msi p67a-gd65 mouse and keyboard freeze - blinking caps lock.

As the title says, my mouse and keyboard suddenly froze while I was chatting on Skype and I noticed that my system was still running. In fact, my razer mouse light was also blinking. The caps lock had a sort of sequential blink, although I'm not sure.
Anyway, I had to use the power button to shut down the system and everything seems normal again. Does anyone know what would cause this? Is it a software issue or due to my board?
I'm running 64-bit Windows 7 Ultimate.

p67a-gd65 motherboard
Intel i7 2600K
2x MSI 6970 graphic cards
Seasonic SS-850HT 850W PSU
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
ADATA S599 system hard drive
ADESSO keyboard and Razer Deathadder mouse
This was the first time this sort of thing has happened. I did have to replace (RMA) my PSU once before due to a random shut down issue but that was resolved. I'm really curious as to why this would happen and I'm hoping it's a software issue and not something related to the USB ports on the board.

Blank Screen and flashing cursor on new build-P67A GD65 (B3). Help needed.

As per the title, a computer was built for me with the following specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500k
Cpu Cooler: Arctic Freezer xtreme Rev 2.0,
Motherboard: MSI P67A – GD65 (B3)
PSU: Super-Flower Amazon 550W
RAM: 4GB G.Skill RipJaws-X, DDR3, 1600
HDD: 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200rpm
Graphics Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 5850 Xtreme - 1 GB GDDR5
Disc Drive: Samsung SH-223C DVD+RW
Case: Cooler Master 690 II LITE Midi-Tower
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate
Everything went ok with the build and installation of the OS. Computer was booting ok. When I took the computer home that evening, powered it on and a blank screen with a flashing cursor on top left hand corner appeared. Tried several times but failed to boot up properly. Just to note that I can enter into the BIOS and it recognizes HDD, processor, Disk Drive and RAM. What I have done so far (of course with advice from computer experts as compared to me) are the following:
1. I removed all the parts except cpu and cooler then put them back. When I restarted a message appeared that win7 need to do a repair. It went thro the process and then it stated it can’t do repair. Did this twice. When I restarted the third time, a blank screen with the blinking cursor appeared again.
2. Cleared the BIOS using the button on the outside of the motherboard and also once using the jumpers inside the motherboard. After doing this, I pressed on the “”ON” button several times (with no power on to the computer) to dissipate any current that was left there.
3. Interchanged the RAM on different slots. Also tried using only 1 stick of Ram at a time.
4. Checked the HDD on another machine and it was ok. Formatted the HDD on the other machine, plugged onto new machine and tried to install OS again but no joy.
At this point, I’m now stuck after almost a month when the machine was built. Would it be the motherboard? RAM? etc. Just wondering if I should RMA the motherboard since it is just over a month when it was delivered.
A point to note, there is a message that comes up when it is booting stating no HDD is detected. I googled this but found out it was to do with a marvel adapter that needs to be disabled or something like that. However, it was mentioned that this wasn’t going to affect the performance of the pc as the BIOS can detect all the components.
I also noticed that when I switch on the pc, there is a small pause before it kicks on then there is a long beep followed by 2 small beeps. I presume this is normal.
Any help on this will be highly appreciated?

Quote
I also noticed that when I switch on the pc, there is a small pause before it kicks on then there is a long beep followed by 2 small beeps. I presume this is normal.
Disable EuP 2013 & that should take care of the pause. The beeps are normal at startup. Only time I have observed a blank screen & blinking cursor is if the system wasn't getting enough juice to initialize, or their was insufficient power in an OC attempt. What kind of +12V amps does that PSU you have provide?

MSI P67A-GD65 and other 1155's whine

Hello MSI and community.
Recently I decided to build a PC especally for minimun noise.
I waited a long time for the B3 boards so I wouldn't have to go through the trouble of returns. Sadly this didn't work out.
First of all I ordered the cheapest and first mobo(gigabyte ph67-ud-b3) that was relesed. Soon as I plugged it in and Windows 7 got to boot screen (from the DVD) it started giving off a high pitched whine.
After alot of research I RMA it and ordered a Asus P8H67-M LX. Loaded it up and thought woohoo no whine, then as soon as windows finishes installing the drivers (first time on windows) of goes the whine again.
I RMA that 1 too and bought the MSI P67A-GD65 advertized as "whistle free" as well as people on another forum saying they didn't hear anything from theirs. This one does the same but I can't keep sending back boards for RMA and want to keep this one so I'm here hoping to try and resolve the issue with MSI.
I have tested these boards with Casecom 500w, ozc gamextream 700w, antec true power 650w and coolermaster pro m 600w with them behind a door to eliminate any fan noise.
MSI GPUS: 8800GS, 8800GTX and 560TI as well as onboard from the h67 board.
I've tried many differant BIOS settings, nothing but disabling C-STATE (fully disabled) effected it. (I havn't manually played with volts)
On the other 2 boards I noticed it seemed to dim when I unplugged all USB devices and in their BIOS it was c3/c6 I had to disable, MSI board doesn't whine as loud as the other 2 but it's more constant but with a morse code type theme to it which seems to be coming from CPU socket whenever the PC is idle, it's equally noisy from either side of the board. It's very annoying and accually gives me a headache as maxium distance.
Alot of people have said their 1155 board don't make a sound but 3/3 for me have so I'm not sure what to think.
I'm currently running with c-state disabled but Turbobooster only seems to go to 25% and slower clock speed on my i5-2500k and I assume for power usage, all things I don't want.
Can you give any information at all? Might it be possible to correct with a BIOS update? I'm open to any suggestions and will keep checking back here.
Hope you will be able to work with me on this issue.
Thank you in advance, I've prefered to go with MSI all my computering life.
Paul

Quote from: HU16E on 22-March-11, 04:18:14
Used the same CPU cooler on all three? That would be my wild guess.
I test it fanless of course but no I have used mutiple heat sinks aswell.
Quote
What's wrong with throttling down at idle or low usage? Who sits at a stop light with the engine at full throttle?
I'm not too sure what disabling C-state accually does but when running Orthos I saw speed was at 3.6ghz instead of the 3.3 while disabled.
Quote
Contact MSI Tech Support by opening a ticket & ask them. This is a user to user forum, being as such, MSI will most likely never read your thread.
Thanks, I didn't realize that.

MSI P67A-GD65 keeps turing on and off...

I have had the follwing build since about march this year.
8GB Mushkin Silverline #996770 (2x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz 9-9-9-24
MSI P67A-GD65 Intel P67 (REV B3) Socket 1155 DDR3 PCI-Express Motherboard
Intel Core i7-2600 3.40GHz (Sandybridge) Socket LGA1155 Processor - Retail
XFX ATI Radeon HD5750
It was all working reasonably fine but I had notice it getting abit noisier so thought it was time for a bit of a clean to remove dust from fans, heatsinks etc. which it drastcially needed.
Anyhow, put it back together and now it turns on and off on start up at a period of about 5 seconds. (It has done this about 11 time before I unplugged it) Checked connections but everything SEEMS fine there. Unsure what it could be and could do to get it back up ASAP.
All was working fine prior and upto cleaning (which was today).
Also I currently have no computers to test bits on but I have done a Bare bones test with no look.
I am secrectly hoping one of can tell me its the heastink as I do have another of those (in fact a better one which I should really put on) but I somehow doubt it would be the issue.
Anyhow I hope this is enough information but I will promptly reply as soon as I can if you need to know anything else.
Thanks,

If it does not POST should it go I still get some output to the screen? I remember many years ago I could get to the BIOS but not boot with no RAM in. Should this happen with this board? All I would like to do is eliminate as many components as possible.
I am not sure sucessfully POST ing is necessarily important in this instance as the issue is (to me)a little odd. Even if it does not POST should it stay on for more than a second and secondly if it does turn off should it stay off and turn on and off ad infinitum? Just to not I am not using the case power switch just in case this had for whatever reason got jammed (this has happened on a computer I had to fix once (I am not a professional but often get roped in to "can you just have a quick look at..."))
Once again a huge thanks for the continued support on this, I have had far more useful advice/questions asked so far from you than I have from MSI themselves and actually had responses unlike my retailer (I will have ot try call them tommorow).

I7-2600k and P67A-GD65 (B3) OC Vdroop voltage offset?

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