Idea pad s400 battery problem

I own a s 400 with 1 month old,i am getting only 1.5 hour battery back up. Is it a common problem. Can i get a free battery replacement?

Good day and welcome to the community.
Your best option would be to call Service and discuss battery replacement options, if any, available to you.
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Similar Messages

  • S400 Battery Problems

    I have recently purchased an S400 and I am experiencing problems with the battery.
    I have the battery settings set at Optimised and I have the notification of low battery switched on.
    When I turn on my computer it will often say that I have 50-60 percent battery however when I use it without the AC power after a few minutes my computer will shut down due to low battery with no warning.
    When I switch the computer back on with AC power it will show the battery as around 5 percent.
    Any advice to resolve this problem would be appreciated!

    hi Catherine08,
    Welcome to the Lenovo Community.
    The battery life expectancy of the Lenovo S400 is up to 5hrs according to this pdf data sheet. If you're getting less than advertised especially if you have 50%-60% (2-3 hrs) more but only lasts a few minutes, try to fully drain the battery and charge it up to 100%. (do this on 3 cycles)
    If the same problem occurs then this is an indication that the battery is already wearing out (probably has dead cells already) and you need to contact Lenovo to have it replaced. Support phone list here. 
    Hope this helps.
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  • Ideapad S400 Battery Problem

    Hi all ,
    4 days back i bought a Lenovo S400 Ideapad with i3 processor(2nd gen), I am really concern about the battery back up its giving , currently its giving 1.5 - 2 hrs . any solution guys . 
    In Flipkart they have quoted 5 hrs as battery back up , so its a bit of concern that so early it should not give this poor backup .
    hoping for a reply .
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    hi Ranjan07,
    Welcome to Lenovo Community Forums!
    On Lenovo sites it also says 5hrs battery life, but this is an idle mode which means no application running and minimal brightness.
    Windows is calculating your remaining battery hours of usage by checking your current  discharge rate vs. The remaining charge.
    You can use Passmark Batterymon to check the discharge rate, high discharge rate is caused applications / Background applications / services and power settings like brightness and wireless/Bluetooth.
      On my lab PC here, discharge rate is around 15884mW so If we have the same discharge rate and battery charge of full 32000mW It will only last for about 2hrs.
    My system is running on Windows 8 and I tried looking around seemed that there are steps to lower down the discharge rate by adjusting some settings like this on this Post
    http://www.friedbeef.com/top-15-ways-to-extend-your-laptop-battery-life/
    You can also fully charge your battery and see if the full charge will count as 32000mW, If it is nowhere cose to that then that definitely is a defective battery.
    But still if the computer is already on minimal usage lower power settings, still your getting 1.5 to 2 hours,
    You can always contact Lenovo Technical support for assistance.
    Best Regards
    Solid Cruver
    Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!
    If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"! This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.
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  • Connection problems with idea pad and public network

    My Lenovo Idea Pad connects fine at home on our ATT internet connectoin, but will not connect to a local public network at a local departent store.  Anyone having suggestions email me at xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  Thank you!\
    Richard
    Moderator note; e-mail address removed to stop the spambots getting it

    I just saw your post and I resolved this on mine for my wired connection. I'm willing to bet that the issue is the same for wireless. Here's what I found.
    Issue:
    During the installation, iTunes installs some network components related to mobile device support over ethernet(Apple Mobile Device Ethernet Service - netaapl.inf). At the same time, according the logs, the install process removed OEM18.inf. This almost exactly coincided with the time that I saw the network connection die (preceded it by a few seconds).
    Basically, iTunes appears to be removing a required network component.
    Resolution:
    After installing iTunes and the network connection breaking, remove the network device from Device Manager and allow Windows to reinstall it automatically.
    The following instructions are for Windows 7, but they are close enough to follow for other versions of Windows.
    1. Click the Start button (Jewel in Vista and Win7).
    2. Right-click Computer and click Manage in the menu that appears (type your password or click Yes if prompted).
    3. On the left side of hte Computer Management window, click Device Manager.
    4. Click the arrow (or plus sign) next to Network Adapters to expand that section.
    5. Right-click your network adapter and click Uninstall in the menu that appears.
    6. Click OK.
    7. Reboot.
    Windows should automatically detect and reinstall your network device on boot.

  • Serious Battery Problem: Lack of Charge and Quick Drain

    I have a 15" Macbook Pro purchased late July/early August 2008, model number A1260 and has its software completely updated. I use the computer every day and, aside from the occasional cycling after getting the battery charge down to 0%, charge the computer every night.
    Recently, my battery seems to be dying a LOT quicker, with the worst case of me leaving my computer to fall asleep with "Better Energy Savings" settings activated at 72% charge and coming back after about 15 minutes of cooking to find that the computer had completely died. After plugging the computer in to a power source, it took 10 minutes for the charge to change from 0% to 1% and, after reaching around 18%, I unplugged the power source and plugged it back in, triggering a change in the battery monitor that made the 18% charge reading jump up to 81%.
    According to the System Profiler, my Power statistics are as follows:
    Charge Information:
    Charge remaining (mAh): 3016
    Fully charged: No
    Charging: Yes
    Full charge capacity (mAh): 3512
    Health Information:
    Cycle count: 564
    Condition: Fair
    Any ideas on what the problem might be or what I can do to solve it?

    Cycle count: 564
    That's over 2 years of charging once every day cycles that you accumulated in just a little over 1 year. Personally, I don't recommend taking the battery down to 0%; it sounds like you have been 'riding it hard'. Batteries don't last forever.
    If you purchased AppleCare, you can see what Apple says; without AppleCare, there isn't much you can do but buy a new battery.
    Note that: http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html says:
    For Apple notebooks with removable batteries — such as previous generation MacBook and MacBook Pro computers — a properly maintained battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles.
    You are well over that.
    Message was edited by: F Shippey

  • Idea pad N580 Clean install windows 8.1 experiment

    LOl , My sister has an  Idea pad N580 today at 9:00 am I will atempt a clean install of windows pro 8.1 ...
    Will report back for those that are interested in clean install for thier Idea pad's N580'S
    I have pre burned a dvd with all needed driversfor the conversion

    Do U have recovery Drive???? I mean do your PC has came with default Installation with Windows 8.1? Or u have a CD/USB and u want to refresh the whole system????
    Regards
    WAQAR AHMED KAMBOH
    Please click on the KUDOS BUTTON on the left of this post as a sign of THANKS GIVING
    Please click on ACCEPT AS SOLUTION if your problem Solved.

  • Anybody that has ever had, or still have battery problems....

    Please join me in finding a solution.
    Lets all converse in this thread about battery problems. I Have noticed many many many battery and power problems going unresolved in this discussion forum and I think if we all get organized into one thread and work together we may find a solution.
    If you haven't read of my battery and power problem before here is the run down.
    -battery won't charge(0% and then eventually "No Batteries Availiable")
    -Battery is NEW. It is valid(works in other iBooks).
    -Its not the DC-in board. No, no... I replaced that and it did nothing, it probably won't help you either.
    -I've done all the pointless stuff.(Resetting PMU, PRAM, NVRAM, Deep Reset PMU)
    -Battery is Charged(Used my friends iBook). Yet my iBook will not power on from the battery.
    Now. I know many iBook owners are having the same problem. I have worked countless hours on this problem and I am never going to give up.
    Now throughout searching countless forums of Battery Problems I have gathered some observations.(All these observations are only taken from cases similar to mine)
    -They have the same problems I have stated.
    -All the Resets in the world don't help them
    -Some of them mention a noise coming from the iBook.
    -Some of them mention buying third party power Adapters.
    -The thread usually ends with them asking more questions and replies never come so they give up.
    -They all usually go unresolved or Solved in the case that they just buy a new laptop.
    So taking that I am pretty sure that this problem needs to be solved. I have been giving it a good try but without information I just cannot get too far.
    Any of you people with the same problem as me... We should all compare certain statistics and symptoms to see if we can zero in on what the problem is.
    These are my suspicions.
    I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:
    AC Charger Information:
    AC Charger (Watts): 45
    Connected: Yes
    Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter. Remember the faulty batteries? Could people be possibly making faulty power adapters and selling them now too? My friend has moved so I cannot test his "Apple" adapter to see if it works.
    I also think this may be the cause of these processor sounds(That are stupidly diagnosed as HD failures) that some people like me get. I found out if I turn the processor down to "reduced" the sound goes away. Maybe the "whizzing" sound could be a capacitor being overworked so it can provide the processor with power or the processor itself but I really think these issues are related.
    In saying that... This is what I want. Anybody out there that has the same(or similar) problems as I do, please do this:
    -State the issues you are having with your iBook.
    -Go to System Profiler and Under Hardware click Power, copy all of those statistics in the right pane and paste them in your reply.
    -Say what kind of iBook(or Powerbook) you have.
    -Say what kind of battery and what kind of Power adapter you have.
    -Ask for other statistics that you think might help you.
    -If you have any ideas of what the problem is please tell me.
    -And if you already know a solution please tell us all.
    We can all tackle this problem if we work together.

    I can't speak to all of your problems, but there are a few things that may help.
    +I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:+
    +AC Charger Information:+
    +AC Charger (Watts): 45+
    +Connected: Yes+
    +Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter.+
    You are incorrect about this. The adapter that shipped with iBooks, initially, was a 45-watt model. 45 watts is all it takes to properly run the iBook and charge its battery. The iBook registers the adapter as 45 watts because the iBook only takes the amount of power that it needs. A Powerbook needs the full 65 watts in order to run the computer and charge the battery simultaneously.
    Did you replace your DC-in board yourself? Has it ever worked since the DC-in board was replaced? Are you sure you got it plugged in properly?
    Yours is acting exactly the way my husband's did when his DC-in board needed to be replaced. That is, it would work from a fully charged battery, but would not charge the battery. A DC-in board replacement was the fix for his, and sounds like that would be the fix for yours, too. If you did it yourself before, maybe you need to either try it again (you could have received another bad one), or send it off to have someone else do it.
    Good luck.

  • !!HELP!! Iphone4 battery problem, water damaged.

    My phone is showing (for example) 27% battery, then turning off, then turning its self back on, then showing 2%,then turning off,then showing 56%,then staying on for a few hours and not going down at all no matter how much it is used.when charging the percent does not increase even after 6 hours on charge then will start going up and down when it turns itself off/on. The phone was dropped in water but was left to dry out and was fine initially. It also says "no sim" sometimes. Is this a battery problem or a problem with the actual phone? everything else on the phone works great, no lcd damage, no mic/speaker/camera problems. It is very strange. Any ideas? Also, the apple service charge of £126, does this cover more than one problem? As the glass on my screen is also smashed, would this be £252 to get both issues fixed?
    Thank you for any info you may have,
    Alan.

    The Out of Warranty fee is not to "fix" issues, it is for a replacement device.

  • Idea Pad N586

    I bought my Idea Pad in Sept. 2012 as refurbished.  Upgraded from original W7 to W8.0 in Feb. 2013.  In the past few months, however, I keep going in circles and am very frustrated:
    - Windows Updates reappear after being updated and some won't update at all.
    - I try to repair WU to no avail 
    - Upgrade to 8.1 is not in Windows Store
    - Standalone upgrade to 8.1 doesn't work (says my system doesn't support)
    - Lenovo update offers keep re-appearing after they've  been upgraded
    - Refresh doesn't work at all.  Gets to a point and "fails"
    - I even to re-install 8.0 from download, but it fails after 90% completion.
    I've tried all the "fixes" from Lenovo, Microsoft, Windows, Internet blogs, etc. and, as I said, I keep going around in circles and can't seem to catch my tail.
    Is it Lenovo?  Windows?  Other?  Or, have I learned a lesson about Lenovo and/or all refurbished laptop brands?

    hi eet,
    Welcome to the Lenovo Forums.
    Just to check, when you connect via the Ethernet, are you still getting the same problem?
    When connected via the Wireless, can you try the following:
    - Open an elevated command prompt, type ipconfig /all and observe the TCP/IP IPV4 address
    Ethernet Adapter Wireless Area Connection:
    DHCP Enabled ..............   xxx (value should be Yes  No)
    DHCP Server  ..................  xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx
    TCP/IP IPV4 Address .....  xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (preferred)
    Subnet Mask ....................  xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx
    Default Gateway ..............  xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx
    - If you get a valid IP address (192.xxx.xxx.xxx / 172.xxx.xxx.xxx / 10.xxx.xxx.xxx) then there's most likely a security software that's interfering with the internet connectivity. If you have Mcafee, Norton, AVG, etc., try to temporarily uninstall these softwares, reboot the PC and observe.
    - If you get a 169.254.xxx.xxx IP address then you're most likely getting a DHCP failover (APIPA).  check this thread and try the script made by cbautis2 to refresh the winsock and TCP/IP configurations of the PC and observe. In addition, ensure that the DHCP Client service is running under services.msc.
    Let me know how it goes.
    Regards
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    If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"! This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.
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  • Battery problems - with no usable Apple support nearby

    Hi all,
    Over the past few weeks, my MBP (2.2 SR MBP) has been turning itself off completely whenever the battery power drops to about 45-50% of capacity. There are still three (or sometimes four) lights showing on the bottom of the battery in these cases, but there just doesn't seem to be enough power left to restart the machine. Only if I plug in the AC adaptor I can restart normally, whereupon the on-screen battery meter still shows around a half of full charge. However, if I unplug the power adaptor, the computer will shut down completely again within a couple of minutes. My cycle count is currently at 54 and my battery health usually shows at around 96-100%
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    Thanks a lot,
    Message was edited by: Linh Nguyen

    This is indeed very strange, Nguyen. Your battery seems to be in excellent health according to the figures you cite, though it is a little strange that it indicates that the battery is not fully charged when it certainly appears to be. Usually when problems of the kind you mention occur the numbers indicate that the battery has a heavily reduced full charge capacity.
    It may be a good idea to try resetting the SMC - see http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1411 and http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1894
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    Finally you might try checking the actual battery connection terminals. Remove the battery and make sure that both the contacts on the battery and the computer are clean and undamaged. You could clean them with a little isopropyl alcohol if necessary.
    If none of these suggestions help at all, then it may be that your MacBook Pro has an internal problem causing excessive current demand - perhaps an internal short circuit of some kind?
    You may end up having no alternative other than seeking hardware repair from an authorised Apple dealer, I'm afraid. Is the computer covered by warranty or an AppleCare agreement?
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    Rod

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  • Ipod Battery Problem (No not the usual question)

    I have a new 30gb 5g Ipod which is the successor to my 15gb 3g Ipod so Im not new to the whole Ipod thing, but I was wondering if I have a battery problem: (Events leading to problem)
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    I think this is a 5th generation iPod that would clearly be under warranty.
    It really does sound like A faulty battery - it's quite common for the battery meter to dip noticably after an hour of use on a fully charged battery because the meter is not really accurate and reflects the battery charge based on what drain is occuring at the time. What is needed is to fully charge the iPod over 4 hours or so, then set it to play continuously and monitor how long it takes until it switches off. That should give a reasonably clear idea of how well the battery is performing.
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  • Idea Tab A3000, Driver Problem

    Hi.. I have two major issue for my Idae Tab 3000H having double SIM without calling facility.
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  • ITouch battery problem!

    Hello!
    Is anyone having issues with their 1G iTouch's battery life?? Mine is about ~6months old and it seems to be sucking the battery juice even when I'm NOT using it.
    I shut OFF the Wifi and the My Location feature. It goes on stanby within a few minutes (it's still on the default time when I purchased it)! The iTouch is shut OFF when NOT in use!
    The only things that'll drain the battery are:
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    3. Movies - rarely watch the movies now, better to watch on LCD monitor or TV!
    4. Music - obviously I use this feature but less now since I use my nano!
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    I check up and charge up the iTouch ~3 days without using it! What gives?!
    Any suggestions for improved battery life?!
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    Daching,
    With your first point....
    I thought that it wasn't possible to diminish battery life by charging your iPod battery too much and that it makes no difference how full your battery is when you use it, just so long as you don't let it diminish completely.
    My old mp3 player did have diminished battery life from overcharging but I think the iPod Touch and other recent ipod versions don't have that problem.
    MrMojo,
    My iPod does strangely run out of battery if I leave it plugged into my computer overnight, but it doesn't affect the battery life.
    I have no idea why your battery is running out so quickly but like daching said, exposure to magnets can affect battery life of any electronic device like computers and iPods and this might be the problem
    sorry i can't help much

  • "THE" battery problem, or something even worse???

    My PowerBook is only a month old. I calibrated the battery the first time I used it, and it held a charge for about 2 hours the first few times. Then is started getting freaky.
    Here's what happens:
    -Battery only charges to 96 percent, then the green light goes off and it doesn't continue to charge.
    -If I then unplug the cable, I get about 20 minutes of battery life at best.
    -If the battery drains completely and shuts down and I plug the computer in, I can't turn it back on. I have to wait several minutes, and then it will suddenly work again.
    -When I finally do get it to turn on after a full discharge, my date is set to 1970.
    -When I remove the battery and try to work with power only, I can't turn it on at all. It will only turn on at all if the battery is in.
    That last point in particular is making me worry. It seems like it may not be the battery, but something else. Any ideas?
    I checked the apple site to see if my battery is one of the batteris affected by "the" problem, but it isn't.
    PowerBook G4   Mac OS X (10.4.3)  
    iBook G4   Mac OS X (10.4.2)  

    You're right -- Apple is aware of the bad batch of batteries. I talked with an Apple tech today and he was very excited about hearing there was some type of thing that happened when I jiggled the AC connector in it's socket. As I mentioned above, on a battery from the "bad" batch, the mAh went from 800-ish to 4600+ just by moving the connector in and out a little -- he immediately escalated the call to his supervisor, as there may be some issue with not only the bad batteries, but also/or the charging circuitry (at least in my PBook). From the two of them (the rep and the sv), I had the feeling there's been no discussion (in their camp) of problems beyond the now-accepted bad battery issue, so at least now they are aware of other possibilities, FWIW. But, like I said, it may just be my PBook.
    It's been 24 hours since I this happened, and the battery ran for over four hours non-stop the first time it reset, and I've used it on and off today, with the charge dropping to 85% a couple of times, and it still shows a cur/max mAh as 4563/4570 on XRG.
    For those of you (with October, 2005 hi-res PBooks) having battery problems, call Apple for a replacement battery. If you're thinking of also jiggling your ac connector in its socket on your PBook to possibly get the same result I did (described above), be advised that all it took for my unit to change or somehow reset the charge factors was a very SLIGHT, subtle pressure, and it could more accurately be decribed as a very gentle in-out manipulation that was only lasted a split second and it was hardly an exact motion. That's all -- it was an inadvertant result and I can't promise you will be able to repeat it (I don't know that I could repeat it). The important thing is that it happened, and tso I'm reporting it. For the record, I'm NOT advising you to start wiggling and yanking connections -- use your heads, kids
    AZB
    Performa/G3 iMac/G4 eMac/G5 2.0dp/and my 15" G4 1.67 DL PBook w/2G RAM ROCKS!!!   Mac OS X (10.4.3)   My Macs are like my children, I love them all equally (even the ugly ones)...

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