Identifying Color Controls when calibrating

I am trying to calibrate my monitor with a Spyder3 Elite colorimeter and partway into the setup process I am being prompted to identify my displays Color Controls, in particular if I have Kelvin Presets, Kelvin Slider and/or RGB sliders.
After many searches, and even a chat with Apple tech help, I am still unable to find if any of these settings on my system exist. I'm not convinced that just because I can't find them, doesn't mean I don't actually have them. I have a mac pro desktop version 10.5.8 with 20"cinema display.
Any help is much appreciated

Several monitors on the market have a menu system and a method for making a lot of adjustments, including color adjustments. Apple displays do not have such adjustments or any kind of menu system at all. All adjustment is done on the host system, meaning the graphics card in the Mac Pro.

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Color Controls for Calibration?

Is there any way to access color controls so that I may calibrate my 23" CD with a Colorvision Spyder and PhotoCal software? The Apple calibration routine is pretty vague, and I need the CD to match a calibrated CRT sitting next to it. Thanks.

"...if some software can adjust the colors, why can't I?"
You can if you want to run the Apple color calibration tool (Sys Prefs / Displays / Color / Calibrate). But if you want to use the Spyder, you have to use the Spyder software which is designed to work with the device.
DD

My screen went high-contrast. color profiles and calibration didn't help. It looks fine before I log in though!

My screen went high-contrast. color profiles and calibration didn't work well -
HOWEVER-
It looks fine right before I log in!
Is there a way to repair the color profiles or whatev?
I Installed Photoshop Elements and Premiere Elements a couple weeks ago that's when I think it began

I found it! "Enhanced Contrast" was set in the "Universal Access" control panel
Thanks, whoever posted that!

Boolean button changes color briefly when pressed

Hi, I am using Boolean button as a toggle, so I only want text changes when it is pressed with no changes to button appearance.
I am able to change the color for On in properties to match the Off color (I am using the Silver palette so normally On is yellow), however when the boolean button is changes to On, there's a brief changes of color still. Is there any way I can get rid of it?
In fact some of my buttons blink black while others blink yellow. I have no idea where that is set.
Thak you very much.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

There are 4 colors for booleans ON and OFF plus going from ON to OFF and going from OFF to ON
You only see the transition color when you have the Mech latching set to "latch when released"
Set it to "Latch when pressed" and you will not see the transition colors
You can set all 4 colors by using the Colors [4] Property
Colors [4] Property
Short Name: Colors[4]
Requires: Base Development System
Class: Boolean Properties
To Use: Create a property.
Array of up to 4 (Foreground Color, Background Color) pairs, where Foreground Color is the foreground color of the Boolean control and Background Color is the background color of the Boolean control. Color pairs include False, True, True to False, and False to True.
You can set the color of the front panel object by wiring a hexadecimal number with the form RRGGBB or by wiring the color box constant to the property.
This property is similar to the Colors option on the Appearance page of the Boolean Properties dialog box.
If the Boolean control has four (Foreground Color, Background Color) pairs for the four states, this property always returns an array of four (Foreground Color, Background Color) pairs when reading. When writing, you can pass in an array of length 1, 2 or 4. If you pass in only one element, this property uses that element value for all four states. If you pass in two elements, this property uses the first element value for the False and True to False states. Similarly, this property uses the second element for the True and False to True states.
If the Boolean control has only one (Foreground Color, Background Color) pair for all four states, this property returns an array of one (Foreground Color, Background Color) pair when reading, and uses the first array element when writing. You cannot change a Boolean control with one (Foreground Color, Background Color) pair to a Boolean control with multiple (Foreground Color, Background Color) pairs.
This property only uses the True to False and False to True states when you set the Boolean control to latch or switch when released. You can get and set these (Foreground Color, Background Color) pairs even if you do not have the control set to latch or switch when released; they just are not used.
Because this property does not change the data of the Boolean control, you can set it at any time.
You can use the this property for Boolean controls on the Classic, Express, Modern, and Silver palettes. You cannot use this property for Boolean controls on the System palette.
Omar

Photo losing color/contrast when using "save as" to save it.

When I first started using CS6 I would edit my photos and when I used "save as" to save my photos then open them in a different photo viewer they would have lost a lot of color and contrast. When I reopened them in CS6 they still had no color. This is all occured on my PC. I used to use PSE 7 (on my PC) and the "save as" function to save them and they turned out fine. I recently got an iMac and when saved on there the same way and reopened in a different viewer they'd have the correct color, but when opened on my PC the color would be lost again. Also tried opening the images I saved on my PC in CS6 on the iMac and they still had no colo/contrast. So that would mean it's not a monitor calibration thing. I'm trying to figure out how to save my photos so they have the best quality they can have for printing and also the correct color for clients to view on their computers. Hope this all makes sense, it's a little confusing. Any help is much appreciated!! Thanks!
PS: I did use the "save for web" option on my PC and the photos have the correct color that way! But those aren't the proper size and stuff for printing. Also I'm very new to iMac and full photoshop so I'm not sure what sizes/pixels/color modes/etc are normal or what photos are supposed to be.

It has to do with embedded profiles and what app you are using to open on PC

I upgraded to Mavericks and now I get a LOT of the spinning colored disk when loading a program or almost anything.

I upgraded to Mavericks and now I get a LOT of the spinning colored disk when loading a program or almost anything?

For memory check out OWC http://eshop.macsales.com/, Crucial: http://www.crucial.com/ and Kingston http://www.kingston.com/us/. You will need to know your Mac the year and season your Mac was first sold and model number which can be found here:
 > About This Mac > More Info… > System Report > Model Identifier:

Specific colors skewed when exported

I'm working in a CMYK workspace on a vector graphic with multiple shapes. The above photo is a portion of the graphic as it appears in Illustrator. There are only three color swatches being used.
When I export the file to a PNG, this is what happens:
The two shapes that make the creases of the hand come out a dull color that looks as though the opacity was lowered. I'm using the exact same color swatch for these two shapes as I am for the other blue areas seen in the photo. I've even tried to retrace the two shapes entirely, but I had the same result. My guess is that it has something to do with the yellow area, but I don't understand why it would be having trouble when the yellow shape in the bottom-left corner functions normally when a blue shape is placed in front of it.
Any solutions?

Looks like the color is set to overprint (right blue bar is same color set to overprint)
Select all
Window >> Attributes >> Overprint (uncheck both fill and stroke)
Also if you are exporting to an rgb format such as .png, you will have better color control in document color mode RGB, and use the color palette with RGB colors.

Simple color control panel.

My largest beef with Lightroom is that for the most part, the HSL sliders are good for creative color but difficult and slow for color corrections. And the white balance controls are terrible for color corrections when used to an RGB system as used in Photoshop (RGB Histogram, RGB Curves and probably the most useful, least appreciated tool the Color Balance controls.)
What I suggest is either a panel on the main Develop module with essentially the Photoshop Color Balance controls (perhaps plus a density slider) with the ability to switch to an RGB Histogram or Curves mode as well. Or better yet, an additional module that has these controls plus Density, Gamma, Contrast, Saturation, Vibrance and a customizable display of one or several images for easy color corrections and display of reference images and/or a selected image in the set to help aim color and skin tones towards.
Any improvement in the speed and ease of color correction would be great.

Color shift when using save for web

Hello,
I am converting my psd files to jpegs using "save for web". I am noticing that the colors are shifting from the original after saving for web. The color shift does not happen if I just convert the psd files to jpegs by using "save as". The psds have a profile of RGB1998. I am using CS3 and my monitor is color calibrated.
Do I need to convert the psd documents to sRGB first before I go to "save for web"?
The preview doesn't look any different if I check ICC profile in the save for web window. I have been told that you are not supposed to embed the ICC profile in the document when saving for web because most monitors are untagged.
Anyway I am wondering if I have to accept a color shift when saving for web or is there something I can do to get the saved for web jpegs to more closely match the original psd?
Thanks a lot for your help.

I think the reason why this question is asked often is because the FAQ entry is pretty lame and incomplete, especially for Mac users that by default have a color managed browser and by default have a screwed up rendering mechanism for untagged images.
Depending on your version of Photoshop, you can convert to sRGB before or during the Save for Web operation.
cesspool13 wrote:
...I have been told that you are not supposed to embed the ICC profile in the document when saving for web because most monitors are untagged.
You convert to sRGB for the systems that do not fully support color management.
and...
You include the sRGB ICC profile for the systems that do support color management.
Doing both covers your bum in most situations. You may choose to omit the ICC profile if you are working on common interface graphics that do not require strict color management. The ICC profile adds a few kilobytes to the file size that are not necessary on lesser graphic elements on a web page.

Blue Color Cast when Printing

I have just carefully calibrated (again) my Canon Pro 9000 Mk11 Printer and Asus Pro Art screen using Spyder equipment.
Printing in LR4.4 consistently produces a blue cast. I moved to Elements 11 and using the same just created profile printed the same picture/file.
No color cast.
I have LR5 Beta also so I printed same on it. No color cast - to all intents and purposes identical to Elements 11.
'Perceptual' setting used throughout and no 'Print Adjustment' used in LR.
I am using Windows 8 64bit.
Why should LR4 only produce a color cast? The settings have been carefully checked ...

Hello:
I'm not sure of site etiquite, whether I should ask another's advice about a separate problem, but my dilemma is so much like this and I have not been able to fix it on my own nor with Adobe or Epson's tech support.
I too am getting out of my printer only prints that have a blue cast to them. My printer is an Epson r2000. I print from Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CS 6 or now its Creative Cloud equivalent. Yesterday, the i7 laptop I have been using for photo editing (with a better monitor attached) started producing only bluish prints--intended to be black and white (the max whites are white but everything else has a blue cast). It also was apparent in color prints when I tested that alternative. I was not too concerned because yesterday FedEx also delivered a gonzo new desktop computer that I had ordered just for photo editing. I thought, "Well, I'll install all my Adobe stuff there and migrate the Lightroom files and everything will be OK." But, immediately, the blue-cast problem showed up on the new computer. I thought I probably "migrated" the problem when I brought over my catalog, images and settings from the laptop.
I reinstalled the newly installed printer driver and reinstalled the latests ICC files for the papers I use (Ilford Gold Fiber Silk and Gold Fiber Mono), but the problem persisted. I didn't yet know about blowing off the preset files.
I spent a lot of time on the phone with Epson yesterday and chatted at length (1 hour 39 minutes) online with Adobe tech support today. Adobe had me do what you recommended--blow off the preset files and begin again, all to no avail. On my own, I again deleted and reinstalled the printer driver and wiped out the preset files.
Still, I get a bluish overlay on my prints.
After reading your posts, I meticulously checked my settings. Everything seems alright.
I did one other thing. I printed images that had not been imported to lightroom in Windows Photo View through the same 13-inch Epson. They came out perfect.
Now, I just don't know what to do next. Epson and Adobe support have done their apparent best. I live in a small town at the end of the Columbia River where I am looked upon as one of the computer problem solvers (a degree in Literature notwithstanding).
I've thought of blowing off lightroom 5 and going back to version 4, but, as I understand it, that would mean losing all my metadata for some 40,000 images dating back to 1966, most of which I had to plug in by hand since they are from scanned negatives.
Do you have any advice?
I am a little anxious because I am supposed to have prints ready for a show opening on July 27.
Thank you in advance for any advice you may offer.
Paul
Paul Haist
Astoria, Oregon
503-780-3379
[email protected]

Changing default color scheme when exporting ALV report to Excel spreadshee

Hi all,
We have a bunch of FI reports created using OOPS in abap. Each of the reports has the functionality to be exported to an excel spreadsheet. When exporting to Excel, the headers are a very dark brown color, making them difficult to read and it has been requested that they are shaded a lighter color. I have not defined any sort of color scheme within the report itself, and I was wondering if there was a way to change the color scheme when exporting the report to excel. Let me know if there is anything that can be done, thanks!

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Error "Expected end of color space" when opening converted OTF - PDF.

Hi experts,
I need help. I'm converting from otf to pdf and it works fine. However when i tried putting a bitmap 256 color to the smartform and generate pdf with CONVERT_OTF FM the pdf result in an error "Expected end of color space" when opening the document and it goes blank.
Can anyone tell why ?
Thanks,
Felix

Hi Peter,
I can open it with another acrobat version. However, the image is not displayed. Do you know why?
Thanks

? about image resolution/color correction when apple prints photo book

My first time making a photo book. I color correct and sharpen all of my images in Adobe Lightroom 2 first. Then I save the jpegs and import into iPhoto to make a book. Is there an option for turning off auto color correction when the file is uploaded to apple for printing? Is there an accurate way to tell how the photos will print on the specific paper they use? Also, what print resolution should the photos be set to? Is 180 dpi enough? Thanks in advance.

first read the Apple pages - http://www.apple.com/support/photoservices/preparation_tips/ - and all of its links
Second - I suspect you will be disappointed. Based on reports on these forums almost everyone who uses iPhoto exclusively to preprocess photos is extremely happy with the results. very often people you over process their photos using a third party program (including Lightroom, Photoshop, etc) are unhappy because the printing process is optimized for point and shoot cameras and iPhoto processing - it is NOT a professional desktop book process
There are no options re color correction - it is built in again aimed at sRGB, point and shoot cameras and iPhoto processing
Plus there have been reported incompatibilities between iPhoto and Lightroom
The print resolution is what it is - if it will be less than 180 dpi you will get a waarning - it can be greater
The papers they print on are specified here - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3412
LN

Trouble with slow Macbook Air. I have first generation MacBook Air and have a hard time keeping hard drive from being full. Right now, I have almost 5 gigs available, but mac is slow and I keep getting color wheel when I use Mail. Any suggestions?

Trouble with slow Macbook Air. I have first generation MacBook Air and have a hard time keeping hard drive from being full. After trashing many docs, I have almost 5 gigs available, but mac is slow and I keep getting color wheel when I use Mail. I'd like to install Lion, but now I'm afraid it will slow down my machine even further. Do I have enough free hard disc space? Is Mail problem related to free hard disc space? Thanks for your help!

7gb of free disc space is required to install Lion. Read this about how to free up disc space: http://pondini.org/OSX/DiskSpace.html. Also, advice on how to speed up your mac: http://www.maclife.com/article/feature/25_ways_speed_your_mac

Preserving Black color values when converting color PDF to grayscale

I opened a full colored PDF document (exported from InDesign using Profile: Euroscale Coated v2) in Photoshop and tried to convert it to grayscale (image > mode > grayscale) and noticed that the black color values changed. text for example that was 100% black in the PDF document became a screen of 91% black.
is there a way to preserve color values when converting full color PDF documents to grayscale?
or in other words WHICH is the correct way to convert full color PDF documents or full color InDesign files to grayscale?
I am using Adobe CS 3, Acrobat 8 Professional, on Mac OS 10.5.5

Before you open the PDF in Photoshop, set PS's Color Settings to Photoshop 5 Default Spaces. When you open the PDF set the Mode to Grayscale in the Import dialog. Just remember to reset your color settings when you're done.
Edit: Also, if you want to match black percentages as well as 100% black, set the Photoshop Color Settings to Photoshop 5 Default Spaces with the Gray working space to Dot Gain 20%.

Identifying Color Controls when calibrating

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