If you haven't already, why not give "blue/green screen" a try?
Legacy FCP and FCE could always do blue (or green) screen but FCP X makes it a real doddle to get a good key.
For my test I simply used a very cheap blue bedsheet fastened to a wall and without more ado filmed myself babbling for a couple of minutes.
The resulting clip was imported into FCP X and the Keying Filter was added.
There are numerous adjustments you can make, but none of these was necessary as the result was automatically OK.
Here are frame grabs showing the original bedsheet and the final result with a street scene superimposed.
You can click the images to enlarge and examine the edges which look pretty clean........... especially considering the the lack of time and expense incurred!
Obviously anybody can achieve the above results with no effort, so take a look at this short video from Vimeo showing how some of the special effects in "The Great Gatsby" were achieved.
For a visual feast I suggest downloading it and playing on an HD TV.
https://vimeo.com/68451324
Now hasn't that pro clip inspired you to try blue/green screen ........... or maybe it's completely demoralised you?
Ian R. Brown wrote:
just a few years ago, this would be the worst 'color key' ever!
it is really impressive, how the automatics 'know' what is you, what is not.
now, add aside you a trackermarker, and you can create pans, camera movement etc .....
Similar Messages
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I live out in the country and have slow broadband. The download took a few minutes short of 12 hours. I have 3 Macs to upgrade to Mavericks and read that I could copy the installation file to an external drive and use that to upgrade the others.
Before the first installation, I checked the Downloads folder for the file but couldn't see it. I though ok, I'll run the install and look for it afterwards. Still couldn't find it afterwards so have googled and found that the installation file is deleted automatically after the installation. Bloody brilliant. I now have another 12 hour download to run.Clock Kate wrote:
My main complaint still stands...why not give us the option to save the installation file before it is deleted. Not user friendly.
If Apple were to bring up a dialog explaining all the consequences of running the installer and asking for your confirmation of each one, that would be frustrating and confusing. Most people have one Mac, they install the OS and it is not needed again. It just takes up space. If you want to create an installer disk, there are instructions for doing so.
Congratulations. You have learnt how the installer works through your own experience! All it cost you was your time. Not all experience is so easily gained. -
Why not give more actual 3D model in multisim with elvismx?
In multisim 10.x with elvismx4.0 environment,some componet 3D models take on very simply 3d models.
For example,a lamp appear a two terminal componet,or like a capacitor.
why not give more actual 3D model in multisim with elvismx4.0.3) Inserting the TV image in the After Effects Composition: Whether I do it as a 2D or 3D image, any still or clip that I want to "play" on the television is always in front of the 3D living room model - though I can move a camera inside the room, I can't move any objects it seems.
You are misunderstanding Photoshop Live 3D and overestimating its potential, that's why. Just like any other 3D-ish effect (Shatter, Particular, Form, Card Dance etc.) it is a peek through a window in a 3D world, but not AE's own 3D world. There is no interaction beyond the plug-ins and effects responding to the AE camera. That's all it is. The rest must come from within the effect/ plug-in itself, but in this case it doesn't, because PS 3D by itself is lamer than lame. Anyway, long-standing and well known limitations in AE's "3D". Not all is lost, though. If you can work your way around building a UV pass as explained here, you might be able to stick your content into the scene rather seamlessly, after all. And lucky for you, you can try this for free these days using a PixelBender filter. I'd still recommend the commercial Re:Map because of the quality, though...
Mylenium -
IF YOU HELP MY NANO upgraded when you install PERFECT BUT DOES NOT APPEAR ON THE SCREEN NOTHING BUT as if you were OFF if turned PLEASE HELP OR MORE AND HAS THE NEW UPDATE
iPod not recognized in 'My Computer' and in iTunes for Windows
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Why is there a green screen when trying to watch any videos on any website?
I currently having trouble trying to watch any type of videos. On Youtube, Abc Player, any videos I try to watch all it gives me a green screen. Audio is playing fine. But the display is just a green sreen. I've tried about all I can do but it gives me nothing.
I've clicked on the right on a video into settings. But the Adobe would not show me the Display to Enable the hardware. I don't know what else to do.
I've also checked if the ActiveX Filtering was checked I unchecked it and stuff but still gave me a green screen on every video.
I'm just tried of not being able to fix this. The Adobe Flash Player it up to date. I have a HP ENVY m6 Notebook PC. With Windows 8 Installed.Hello ToriTorres,
You question seems quite general, and this is a CQ5 dedicated forum dealing with CQ specific questions. If your problem is linked with Adobe Flash Player, please try to post in the corresponding forum http://forums.adobe.com/community/flashplayer
Regards -
Can you crop, resize and move a clip using green screen?
This is what I'm trying to do:
Film an outdoor shot of a mountain in the distance, then film myself in front of a green screen pretending to climb. Crop that "climbing clip" ...reduce the size, and move it so it looks like I'm climbing the mountain.
I'm hoping this is possible with the express version of Final Cut... even better if it was possible with iMovie HD.
Thanks!
SpenceHi Spencer,
Yes, you should be able to do it in FCE. You would have to play with the green screen clip in wireframe mode in the Canvas to resize & move it. Probably can't be done in iMovie. -
Flash videos not working, show green screen
In all of my browsers (firefox latest version, chrome latest version, IE 8) flash videos on sites like Youtube and others will play audio but will only display a green screen (no video). I have updated flash "successfully" several times.
Also, I have tried uninstalling flash player several times but it never actually uninstalls, despite saying that the uninstall was successful. I have tried uninstalling on a clean reboot, with no programs running. What do I do?
EDIT: More info: On the adobe.com/software/flash/about page the flash video plays and the little box says "You have version 10,1,82,76 installed" so flash is definitely still installed. I also tried rebooting multiple times between uninstalls.Hi, glad you solved your own problem On the Uninstalling, removing it from add/remove or control panel/programs & features doesn't do it. In your case, glad it didn't since you ran the test, and Flash Player is working fine now(without the h.a)
If you ever need to Uninstall Flash Player, be sure to use the latest Uninstaller from Adobe since it changes each time a Flash Player Update is released.
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/141/tn_14157.html
You can always find the latest Uninstaller just be looking at a few threads here on the forum.
Thanks,
eidnolb -
nếu id thực thi của tôi Táo này tôi quên lý do tại sao as a Táo không cho phép tôi để đảm bảo
Me forget me now is not remember a password to restore redistribute it once again the computer Táo Tai sao khong cho 1 Ngôi Sao to resolve 'any comments apply my Thích Như các ...' Táo such as this tag but do not have ai would like to use the product which is a directory
iphone 5s imel 013790002840040
http://Google Translate:
Chỉ có chủ sở hữu trước của điện thoại có thể giúp bạn với điều này. Họ phải cung cấp ID và mật khẩu để kích hoạt điện thoại, hoặc xóa nó và loại bỏ nó khỏi tài khoản của họ như đã giải thích ở đây: http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4515. Nếu bạn không thể liên hệ với chủ sở hữu trước đó bạn sẽ không thể kích hoạt điện thoại.
Only the previous owner of the phone can help you with this. They have to provide the ID and password to activate the phone, or erase it and remove it from their account as explained here: http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4515. If you cannot contact the previous owner you will not be able to activate the phone. -
If you're ipod shuffle will not turn on....Try this!
Okay everyone after reading all your posts that were similar to mine I'm hoping that you can also use what woHope this helps others out there with the same issues.
Here's my problem....I've got an ipod shuffle that mysteriously stopped playing after being able to do so for several months.
Here's what I've done...All the reset, restore,recharge and blah blah blah....
I tunes recognizes the shuffle, my computer recognizes and blah blah blah...
when I disconect from the computer ipod will not play once turned on, battery light shows full charge, but ipod will not play...nor will the green light show up after switching to on position.
Thus far the only way I've found that will get this thing to play I will share with all of you in hopes to help and be helped. If this helps and are able to get past the point that I've been to please post or e-mail me directly [email protected] with subject line ipod help...
Steps 1: restore ipod. MAKE SURE IPOD IS IN THE ON POSITION (I did this step with shuffle on)
step 2: put songs on ipod.
step 3: In I-tunes use eject ipod function bottom right on I-tunes screen.
Step 4: Now here's the crucial part take ipod shuffle out of USB port.
Step 5: Turn off shuffle.
Step 6: Take headphone out of jack...I know weird, but it works time and time again on mine.
Step 7: Turn shuffle back on after 5 sec without headphones in...
Step 8: light should be solid if not, hold pause button down a little harder than normal until light stays solid for at least 30 sec.
Step 9: Plug headphones back in, press play. If light begins to flash green, press play again. Now it should play normally.
You may have to do this several times. Other things I've tried...while steady green try slowly putting headphones in until halfways, 75% of the way in...Then press play. Just fiddle with it. Eventually you'll get it. It's seriously weird, but it's working somewhat consistant for me now. I do have to do this process continously. Let me know if this works for you or let others know what worked for you.
Wait 30 sec- min...still no?...keep reading.
Step 8:
Step 9:thank you so much.
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I. Have several apple products and used me to sync them all. iCloud will not support my iMac g5, PowerBook g4 and iphone3. It will sync my intel iMac, iPad, ipad2 and iPhone 4s. Yet it will sync with pc,s?
Has anyone else seen this problem and come up with a workaround or alternative ?With Leopard 10.5, which can run on a G4, you can gain access to iCloud email but can't use all functions. See this thread: https://discussions.apple.com/message/17490155#17490155
If you haven't already, you might look over the iCloud discussions or post your question there. It's at https://discussions.apple.com/community/icloud/icloud_on_my_mac -
I don't really understand processors, but is the 2.0GHz Quad Core i7 really a better processor in terms of performance? If it has 4 cores why not give it greater processing speed like 2.7 or 3.0 GHz?
I am asking because I am thinking about getting the high end Mac Mini, but I see that it's processor runs at 2.0GHz and the others in the line run at 2.5 and 2.7 respectively. Why is this?I'm really oversimplifying here, but...
Let's just assume that each core runs at full speed all the time, the total performance of that processor would be the sum of the running totals of each core:
Duo Core i7 = 2 (cores) * 2.7 GHZ = 5.4 Ghz total processor power
Quad Core i5 = 4 (cores) * 2.0 GHZ = 8.0 Ghz
Like I said, oversimplified. But, you get the point. Not to mention, most apps still aren't optimized, so at a given time they only use a single core anyway. In this case, it'd be more beneficial to have more cores, since they would (hypothetically) be able to run more simultaneous processes (four vs. two in your case).
I gues the greater question is: what were you planning on using the mini for? Most CPUs go underutilized anyway, so you may be better off getting a 2.0, and maxing out your RAM and maybe adding a SSD. Those upgrades (the SSD especially) will result in a very noticeable increase in performance. -
I recently updated to Itunes 12.0.1. Now, when I plug in my Ipod and go to the Music section, the Itunes Match option is unavailable. Which means that my music is taking up too much memory on my Ipod Touch. How do I re-enable the IMatch option so that my music will automatically be in the cloud?
Hello pib1617,
iTunes Match can be enabled on your iPod Touch via Settings -> iTunes & App Store.
Turn on iTunes Match. Go to Settings > iTunes & App Store. Sign in if you haven’t already.
iPod Touch User Guide - iCloud and iTunes Match
http://help.apple.com/ipodtouch/8/
Cheers,
Allen -
HT1600 Just upgraded my Apple TV and have lost access to You Tube ... why?
Just upgraded my Apple TV and have lost access to You Tube ... why?
Check your internet connection and try restarting the ATV.
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Why is my MacBook Air screen white?
I Tried turning on my MacBook Air today and when the screen lit up it didn't load anything, all there is is a white screen. I have tried turning it on and off but it doesn't make a difference. It was working normally yesterday and had no problems with it.
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
Screen not moving beyond grey screen once power button is pressed
hi
Once i switch on power button. Apple logo comes and after a while it disappears and round cursor keeps rotating.
and screen doesnt move to normal start up .
So unable to start the laptop.
Need helpTake each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.
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