IMAC 27"original internalHard drive serial no

iMac 27"(SN: C02J51ATDHJP)
My internal Hard drive (ST31000528AS) and OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5690H was original built in iMac product or replacement of refurbished?
how can I look for built in my iMac Hardware serial numbers? I want to check my hardware device is original or not,because I live in Myanmar
and I was service my mac last year with outside service. Apple service don't have in Yangon(Myanmar).

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can check the serial number of your computer. Open  > About this Mac, and press Version twice, so you will see your serial number. Then, you can go to a site like http://appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php and check the hardware of your computer. My iMac came with a ST3100528ASQ drive, but it was replaced by the ST3100528AS.
Note that this website may not provide the original drive that came with your computer, so if it doesn't show the original disk, you can't know it

Similar Messages

New iMac 750 GB Hard Drive Fail Smart Drive Test - Glitch or Problem

Greetings!
I have a new 24" imac with 750 GB hard drive which has had problems out of the box (system crashing several times a day/unable to re-start/application crashes/general sluggishness).
Five re-installs of Leopard (upgrade/clean install/install and erase)in five weeks when I finally used the latest version of Drive Genius and TechTool Pro (4.6.1). Both claimed hard drive problems. Specifically, TechTool Pro reported smart drive failure (see report below, please).
This seemed to confirm my suspicions that something was flawed with my iMac from the start.
I have returned the computer for a new hard drive.
The Apple-approved repair shop says they've installed a new 750 GB had drive sent by Apple and when they run TechTool Pro, they get the same smart drive failure report. The techie claims this is either a glitch with TechTool Pro, or with the hard drive, but that I have nothing to worry about.
What's your opinion?
Many thanks for taking the time to read this.
SMART
Saturday, December 29, 2007 1:18:12 AM US/Pacific
S.M.A.R.T. Self-Checks <Failing!>
Model: ST3750640AS Q
Mount Point: /dev/disk0
Capacity: 698.64 GB
Writable: Yes
Ejectable: No
Removable: No
Bus: Serial ATA
Bus Location: Internal
Revision: 3.BTH
Serial Number: 5QD2JVNE
disk0s2: Ma
disk0s3: Pa
disk0s4: Peppi
S.M.A.R.T. stands for Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology. This test checks and reports on the status of the S.M.A.R.T. routines built into your drive. These routines monitor important drive parameters as your drive is operating. An examination and analysis of these parameters can aid in the prediction of drive failure. This will allow you to back up your data before your drive fails and the data becomes inaccessible.
S.M.A.R.T. Self-Checks
Attribute Normal Worst Threshold Status
1 Read Raw Error Rate
100 253 6 Okay
3 Spin Up Time
95 92 0 Okay
4 Start/Stop Count
100 100 20 Okay
5 Reallocated Sectors
100 100 36 Okay
7 Seek Error Rate
78 60 30 Okay
9 Power On Hours
100 100 0 Okay
10 Spin Retry Count
100 100 97 Okay
12 Power Cycle Count
100 100 20 Okay
187 Unknown
100 100 0 Okay
189 Unknown
100 100 0 Okay
190 Unknown
41 37 45 Failing!
194 Temperature
59 63 0 Okay
195 HW ECC Recovered
63 61 0 Okay
197 Current Pending Sector Count
100 100 0 Okay
198 Off-Line Scan Uncorrectable Sector Count
100 100 0 Okay
199 Ultra DMA CRC Error Count (Rate)
200 200 0 Okay
200 Write Error Count
100 253 0 Okay
202 DAM Error Count
100 253 0 Okay
S.M.A.R.T. Self-Checks <Failing!>
Tests Completed
Threshold levels are exceeded occasionally. You should consider backing up your data from the hard drive. You should continue to check the hard drive for failures.
S.M.A.R.T. Self-Checks <Failing!>
-end-

Greetings, all!
This has been my first posting, despite having owned 5 Macs over twelve years - which goes to show you how reliable they are, most of the time.
I am very impressed with the thoughtful responses, and I really, really appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Here's an update since my last posting. I picked up my repaired(?) iMac from the Apple-approved repair shop. The technician's report said (referring to the original hard drive Seagate ST3750640AS Q) "The drive has passed and boots into the OS without issue. Confirmed the smart status of the hard drive shows failed, but this is for an unknown attribute. This may not really indicate the drive is failing, but could be a possibility. Since all of the other tests have passed, I feel it is best to replace the drive under warranty for the customer.
About the new hard drive, the technician wrote: I have run a third-party smart utility on the (new, replaced) hard drive again and I have found that it is failing with the same error. The Apple test shows the smart status as OK.
I have researched this error and I have found that this attribute appears to be for temperature. Since both drives showed the exact same error, this attribute can be safely ignored for smart status. I was not able to replicate any issues with this machine other than the smart status failure so I do not think there is any other hardware failing in this machine.
If the customer continues to have issues, I would recommend reinstalling the OS one more time. If the issue still persists after this, then the customer should bring in the computer when issues are still happening so we can try to determine the cause of the problem better.
At first, my iMac was performing much better, but as I began to migrate data from back-up, I was not able to connect/re-establish my iphoto library, or re-establish my Apple mail accounts( both of which I have done countless times in the past without hassle).
I decided to run Apple's Disk utility which reports it cannot repair the new drive.
Just prior to my original posting, I had sent a copy of my posting to Micromat (TechTool Pro) asking for their opinion/advice.
Their response was: The SMART routines are built into the hard drive by the drive manufacturer. They are proprietary and different for each drive manufacturer. TechTool Pro just reads the status of the built-in SMART parameters and reports their status. Basically, a threshold exceeded indicates that the drive has exceeded what the manufacturer thinks are proper operating parameters for it and it may be getting close to failing. For an interpretation of the seriousness of a specific attribute failure you would need to contact the drive manufacturer. A failure is a warning to be sure to keep good backups and consider replacing the drive. If you get a SMART failure on a drive that is under warranty, the drive manufacturer will typically replace the drive.
Following are two links that might be of interest:
http://www.ariolic.com/activesmart/docs/glossary.html
http://www.ariolic.com/activesmart/docs/smart-attribute-meaning.html
I also took your (Looby) advice and called Seagate. (I also visited their web site, which recommends replacement of their hard drive under these circumstances!)
Within a couple of minutes, the tech person agreed that this is a serious concern and I should replace the drive.
Regarding Wiil's post, Apple's Disk utility says: smart status verified.
The SmartReporter utility reports the smart status is OK.
The SmartUtility application says:smart status failed. ID: #190 Unknown attribute.
For all other posters, this was not a New Egg purchase, which was not relevant to my post. Thank you just the same.
I've left a message for the Apple-approved store and will ask for another drive, and that, if possible, it be tested before I bring my iMac in to reduce the inconvenience.
I'm also wondering if I should switch to a 500 GB hard drive, although that would defeat the purpose of buying the larger drive for all the video I work with ( I have another 2 Terabytes storage with external drives).
Any further comments welcome - and thank you all again for taking the time!

How do I download/install Photoshop & Premiere Elements 10 on new iMac with no disc drive?

My iMac hard drive recently failed and I lost everything. I just bought one of the new iMacs with no disc drive. I had purchased Photoshop CS5 in 2011 but it came with CD's for install. I stil have them but it doesn't do me any good since there is no disc drive to put them in on the new computer. How can I install Photoshop using my serial number from my original purchase? I downloaded the CS6 trial version and when I try to activate it with my old serial number it says it is invalid.

There are links to trial installers on pages:
http://prodesigntools.com/all-adobe-cs5-direct-download-links.html
http://prodesigntools.com/photoshop-elements-10-direct-download-links-pse-premiere-pre.htm l
Very carefully read and follow the instructions on the pages!
Download and install the trials, launch and activate them with your serial number then do 'Help > Updates'.

I just need to know how you get an iTunes library off the original hard drive of a mac and onto an external hard drive and still have it work normally?

I just need to know how you get an iTunes library off the original hard drive of an imac and onto an external hard drive and still have it work as it normally would?

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1449

Re-formatting iMac's Corrupted Hard drive..Suggestions please

Because of a failed Optimisation I feel I now have to completely wipe, re-format and re-load OSX onto my iMac's internal HD, but never having done this before I want to make sure I don't end up in more of a mess then I am in right now! So I'd appreciate any advice as to the best way to go about this.
My iMac is a late 2009 27" and at present has OSX 10.8.5 loaded, ( loaded but with many miss-functions ). Prior to the problem the iMac was running OSX Lion, what version though I can't remember.I installed 10.8.5 the other day to see if that would fix things, but it hasn't. It was not a "clean install", just regular one from downloaded OSX 10.8.5.
I have run Disk Utility and TechTool Pro' 7 to try to make repairs to address the problems so far to no avail. Main problems are that my most used applications, FCP-7 Studio, Aperture and Photoshop CS5 amongst others, open but then immediately crash. I've reloaded the troubled applications, de-installed them properly with de-installation app's then clean re-installed them, but that's made no difference. They will not mount.
I reckon there must be a fault or corruption on the HD, probably caused during the Optimisation as everything was functioning well before I did that.
So, the only OSX install disks I have are the original disks that came with the iMac, OSX 10.6.2 and a Snow Leopard Upgrade DVD OSX 10.6. I do have the downloaded copy of OSX Mountain Lion that I pulled from the App Store the other day and that copy is now on an external USB / Firewire 800 HD.
As I said I would like to be able to clean off the iMac's internal 2tb drive completely and install a fresh newer OSX. If I first have to load OSX.6.2 then upgrade via the App Store that's fine, but I'd rather just go straight to Mountain Lion if possible. Whatever works best. Getting rid of any corruption on the iMac's HD is the prime motivation.
All my applications and files are backed up to a 2tb LaCie external drive.The iMac has approximately 900 gb's of content onboard and the rest is free / unused space.
I would very much appreciate all the help and suggestions as to how I can safely go about the wipe and re-installation of a fresh OS. I fear doing this without good advice I could very well "brick" the iMac!
Thanks!
PM

I would like to revert to OSX Lion. How can I do this,
Revert to a Previous OS X
would it be possible to install Lion on a separate partition
Yes. Boot into the Recovery Volume again and use Disk Utility to partition the disk.
Is the Installer in your Applications folder? That is where it downloads to. When you start it, you can point it at the new partition and install it there.

Have reformatted my Imac using original discs (installed leopard (10.5)) tried to do the software update but it cant download the itunes update and when it gets to the configure update screen after restart for main update, it just gets stuck. HELP!

have reformatted my Imac using original discs (installed leopard (10.5)) tried to do the software update but it cant download the itunes update and when it gets to the configure update screen after restart for main update, it just gets stuck. HELP!
The configure bar gets about an 1/8 full and then just does nothing. I think its lists the update as combo update? cant remember with out checking.
I have tried to do the disk verify and repair but this has made no difference.
Please let me know what i need to do, I have reformatted the mac just to start over as was clogged with a lot of useless data, I had installed lion (10.7) from the app store previously and now cant seem to find a way to re install lion. I hope I dont need to pay for it again?

If you erased your hard drive, you'll need to reinstll OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard to access the App store. You won't have to pay for OS X 10.7 Lion again. Did you try booting to the recovery partition by holding the command and r keys down? If that's still there, you can reinstall OS X 10.7 from there.
If you're looking to install the current iTunes, you need OS X 10.6.8 at a minimum.
If you're still trying to update OS X 10.5 Leopard, you can download the combo update from here. Download, use Disk Utility to repair permissions, apply the update, then repair permissions again. That will take you to OS X 10.5.8.

IMac 1TB Seagate Hard Drive Replacement Program - how long does it take?

I started a new thread for this issue since the original thread has degenerated into a rant. I just got my love letter from Apple informing me that my new 27" iMac has the bad drive. I backup to an external USB drive using Time Machine, and I am planning to have my nearest Apple store replace the drive sometime in the next few weeks.
I am posting to ask if anyone has yet contacted Apple about this issue? I am curious how long it takes to swap the drives. Can it be done while you wait? Does Apple have any ability to clone the old drive's data to the new? Has anyone been able to arrange for in-home service as mentioned in the original thread?
Please don't use this new thread to rant about the problem. If you need to let off steam, please post to the original thread.
Thanks for the help!

Greetings from an apple mac newbie in UK. On the one hand, after getting the email today I was disappointed to find my brand new shiny mac 21.5 might have a fault on hard drive, on the other at least apple points it out! But doubly frustrating for someone that has just taken the plunge and converted from pc/microsoft rubbish after two decades and still finding my feet in macworld....and who upgraded to OS X lion this past weekend without a hitch (nervous as an XP SP2/SP3 veteran)...and had to pay for Lion because I bought my imac just a week to early to qualify for free Lion upgrade.
My decision on Hard drive is to wait and see, firstly to guage experience of apple turn around times/customer experience etc in UK and secondly because I would like to understand what kind of percentage of the seagate drives are faulty...I am backing up with time machine, the machine is under warranty and applecare too, so maybe no need to rush, there's a year yet at least.
Another consideration for me is that I bought my mac with dual drives - the 1TB Harddrive for data and the 256SSD for OSX/apps...idea was to keep the programs on the ssd as it is fastest and is best with less rewrites, the conventional hard drive then used for big data stuff like docs, music and photos. This needed a bit of custom set up involving apple support to get the right things on the right drives, so am in no hurry to muck that up!
PS does anyone else in the UK have my mac dual drive configuration...?

Hi, I want to downgrade from OSX LEOPARD to OSX TIGER but I have a few questions regarding this. My iMac is originally from 2007 it came preloaded with tiger. I have original install tiger discs version 10.4.10. Is it safe to downgrade or not please help

Hi, I want to downgrade from OSX LEOPARD to OSX TIGER but I have a few questions regarding this. My iMac is originally from Sep 2007 it came preloaded with tiger. I have original install (2) tiger discs version 10.4.10. I want to know if it is safe and what are the necessary steps to do so. Also by downgrading im wondering if a lot of apps nowadays support tiger for example I have photoshop version 5 and 4 these are very important to me. One last question does anyone know of any reliable virus protection for mac that doesnt slow down your computer? because I have read that a lot of them do so. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it! Here are the specs for my iMac
Model Name:
iMac
Model Identifier:
iMac7,1
Processor Name:
Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:
2 GHz
Number Of Processors:
1
Total Number Of Cores:
2
L2 Cache:
4 MB
Memory:
2 GB
Bus Speed:
800 MHz

Most of the time a perception of general slow performance is the result of installing third party junk alleged to speed up, "clean" or "optimize" your Mac, or to look for viruses that don't exist. Ideally you would know what you installed so you can uninstall it, but if you don't know or aren't sure there are techniques such as Safe Mode and creating a temporary user account to confirm that suspicion.
If you open Activity Monitor it may show a process, or processes, that occupy a lot of your system's time.
Slowness confined solely to web browser activity is often the result of an inexorable progress toward websites that demand ever more processor-intensive tasks. If your slow performance is strictly limited to web browsing, you might try disabling Flash by either uninstalling it, or use utilities such as ClickToFlash that allow you to control what Flash content gets loaded. Flash in itself is not inherently evil, but there is nothing to stop websites or the advertisers who pay for them from writing horrible Flash code that can do everything from hogging 100% of your CPU's time to causing random crashes. You can watch Activity Monitor as in the above to correlate these troublesome web pages with performance degradation.
You are correct; if your computer shipped with Tiger you may certainly revert to it. I forgot that Tiger was shipping on new Macs as recently as five years ago. To downgrade it would be necessary to completely erase your hard disk and boot with the Tiger installation DVD, followed by installing it anew. Such drastic measures are not necessary and you are unlikely to be satisfied with the results anyway.
Assuming your system is free of third party parasitic junk attached to OS X in an ill-conceived attempt to improve upon it, that your hard disk drive is sound and the boot volume has enough free space to work with, by far the best performance-enhancing improvement would be to add more memory. Buy as much as your computer can use and that you can afford. 2 GB is not that much any more.
Read the following for some recommended troubleshooting techniques from Apple:
General purpose Mac troubleshooting guide: Isolating issues in Mac OS X
Creating a temporary user to isolate user-specific problems: Isolating an issue by using another user account
Memory limitations: Using Activity Monitor to read System Memory and determine how much RAM is being used
Identifying resource hogs and other tips: Runaway applications can shorten battery runtime
Starting the computer in "safe mode": Mac OS X: What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode?

While starting my iMac after new hard drive installed, I created a admin user, I then pulled over a backup from an external hard drive that brought over the previous admin user settings. Need to merge to old user with the new user

I had to replace the hard drive in my iMac. Upon initial start up, I created a admin user name and password. Then I connected a WD external hard drive that had a back up of my orginal HD. Upon running Migration Assistant and pulling over the back up I found it pulled over the ORIGINAL user & security information from the original hard drive. In order to see iPhoto or iTunes libraies I must sign on to the "Old" user.
I want to Merge old and new users into only 1 user or delete the original user however need to have the iPhoto/iTunes libraies accessable by the "New" user.

Your best bet is to start over, by restoring your entire system to the exact condition it was in. Otherwise, the transferred user account probably won't have permission to its backups. See the pink box in Problems after using Migration Assistant for an explanation.
See Time Machine - Frequently Asked Question #14 for details on how to do the restore.

How do you reset your imac to original setting

pls Ive read the manuals and I dont get it pls help me try to reset my Imac to original settings

"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu at top of the screen. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
*Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.*
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Select your Mac OS X volume.
5. Click Repair Disk, (not Repair Permissions). Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk."
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Then try a Safe Boot, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, reboot when it completes.
(Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive.)
If perchance you can't find your install Disc, or are running 10.7+, at least try it from the Safe Boot part onward.
If 10.7.0 or later...
Bootup holding CMD+r, or the Option/alt key to boot from the Restore partitiion & use Disk Utility from there to erase & re-install the OS.

Which imac? Which hard drive?

Have an old purple imac with dead hard drive. Have removed drive, and would like to replace drive, but cannot determine which model imac it is, since the drive is not working. It's at least a 350, because it's slot-load. This drive is a Quantum 30 GB AT Fireball Plus AS, which i do not think is the original. As it is only used for word-processing these days, don't need 30 gb, but don't know how to determine which drive would be ok.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Carolyn
imacs, ibooks, Performas, Quadras, Os X Server Mac OS X (10.2.x) OS 7.1 to 10.2

Your iMac can use any 3.5" IDE/ATA desktop drive. The iMac will recognize up to 127 GB of drive space.

My computer is part of the iMac 1TB Seagate Hard Drive replacement program. What is the best external modem to use in order to back up my files prior to me dropping off my computer.

My computer is part of the iMac 1TB Seagate Hard Drive replacement program. What is the best external modem to use in order to back up my files prior to me dropping off my computer.

As Babowa says, get an external disk. You should have one for normal backups anyway.
Actually, I'm a strong fan of having multiple backups. 3 copies including the original, 2 different backup formats, and 1 backup off-site.
And when you have your iMac in for service, if you have just 1 backup at that point in time you have just 1 copy of your data. I get paranoid about my data.
But if you are just making 1 backup, I would use SuperDuper (free for a full clone, and extremely good software, as is Carbon Copy Cloner, but it is not free anymore).
And then I would "Boot" from the clone, to make sure it was a good clone.
Booted from the clone, I would then use Applications -> Utilities -> Disk Utility to zero the original disk, as suggested by Babowa, so that when they replace the disk, the original disk containing your data is not in the hands of strangers. A single pass of zeros is more than good enough as an erase, as the chances are no one is going to spend the money needed to try and read the erased data. It is not like you have any super secret data, just stuff you do not want the casual data theif to get. You will find the zeroing options under Disk Utility -> Erase -> Security Options
Just make sure you actually boot from your clone before erasing your original. And if you are paranoid like me, make 2 backups, then erase the original :-)

After attempting secure erase, iMac w/homemade fusion drive won't boot from *anything*

2009 iMac with homemade fusion drive (SSD installed in optical bay). Was working fine with Yosemite until I attempted to secure erase it before giving away the machine.
Now the drive is borked. Disk utility could make no sense of it, can't reformat, it can't repartition it. And now it has completely stopped booting. I cannot even get it to boot of an external USB drive anymore (the original operation was performed while booted from a Yosemite installer drive on a USB stick).
I've reset the PRAM, reset the SMC, and just nothing. All boots are attempted from internal messed up fusion drive, which eventually ends in the "prohibitory sign".
I'm not even sure what to try at this point. Any suggestions out there?

Thank you for the reply. I have since resolved the problem, although not in the most satisfactory way.
Here's what I did:
Pulled both drives out of the iMac, put them into a USB dock, and reformatted each one. Both drives appeared at this point to be fine.
Reinstalled both drive into the iMac, and started up from a USB drive. No problem.
Recreated the fusion drive from the terminal. No problem.
Now, because I am a glutton for punishment, I tried wiping the fusion drive again. This time, part way in, it kernel panicked. Luckily, I was able to reboot once again to the external drive.
At this point, the fusion drive was in the exact same messed up state as when I started. Disk Utility app could do nothing with it.
Fortunately, this time I went right to the command line, and was able to fix things up and recreate the fusion drive before anything else bad happened.
I gave up on wiping the drive for now. If I need to do so in the future, I will disable the fusion drive and try to wipe each physical drive separately.
I should note that this iMac has never given a spot of trouble before now, so I am highly suspicious of the way disk utility tries to wipe a fusion drive. I certainly won't try it again. (I don't know if it has ever kernel-panicked before in the 5 years I've owned it).

How do I install CS5 on new iMac without a disc drive, if remote installation isn't working?

I purchased CS5 for my laptop (Macbook Pro 2007 I believe) and now have the newest iMac without a disc drive. I have tried remote installation, but it did not work. I attempted to copy the installation files onto a USB and then transfer them, however, the iMac then prompts me to insert the installation cd. How can I install it? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I was signed in with download assistant, no just in at adobe.com... I've tried different perferences and settings but when I click on the links nothing seems to happen. I've been messing around with this for a few hours now and it dawned on me that it may have something to do with my internet. I live outside the city- totally nice for gardening, totally terriable for internet thus I have a verizon data plan and not unlimited internet, I think possibly verizon is shutting it down because of restrictions I have on my data. This type of thing also happened when I upgraded to Mavericks. The file itself was larger than my month's data so it seemed like it wouldn't initiate the download... I don't know for sure if it is the same problem here but if you're telling me that you are having more successful results than I am that might be the reason.
I'll take my computer to work or to my mom's house or somewhere where I can have unlimited access and see if I have any better success.
Thanks so much for all your help!

How do I install CS6 on my new imac without a disk drive?

I purchased cs6 on dvd from adobe under a year ago and now want to install it on my new imac.How do I install it on the imac without a disk drive?

Giddy,
You can go ahead and follow the link below to download the CS6 for you.
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4295655#4295655
-Mandhir

IMAC 27"original internalHard drive serial no

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