IMac not starting up (no chime and no USB power)

Hello,
My neighbor's computer is experiencing some problems: it does not start (the screen stays black, no startup chime, but the fans run, as does the hard disk. Also, neither the mouse or the keyboard seem to be powered (no light), so the computer doesn't even come to loading the EFI). The model is an iSight iMac G5 20'' (EMC=2082).
I have tried usual commands (reset PRAM and reset the SMC). Also tried with no device connected. (well, if something so trivial than all these tips did the trick, I wouldn't had to ask here ).
So, without keyboard, I couldn't even try special modes (safe, target disk, start from CD, etc), should the Mac be able to start in some mode. I have then decided to open the iMac (well, the warranty is way out, so nothing is lost). I have never seen a so-hard-to-open Mac, by the way (something was likely blocked).
I'm thinking of 4 possible causes for the problem:
-the hard disk could be damaged. It was malfunctioning some days ago. I assume it could come to a point where the logical board of the disk is failing;
-the RAM is an obvious possible cause;
-the CPU is also obvious;
-another component on the main board/logic board.
-I have forgotten a 5th point?
Well, I tried with unplugging the hard disk, and it had no effect, so it's not the HDD. I'm puzzled for the remaining ones (not knowing the iMac enough is a cause).
First, about the RAM, it seems the RAM slot is empty, so the actual RAM is somehow built-in (I haven't seen something seeming like usual RAM bars), so, if I can't remove the RAM, how can I test whether it's damaged or not?
Then, the CPU. There are 2 of them. So I thought I may take one out (and then the other one) and see whether the Mac starts. Well, I can't figure out how to remove the CPU cooling piece (there are just 4 "buttons" that can be pressed but nothing happen). I prefer asking here first, not removing the entire main board without advices.
Lastly, if it's the main board, I know I won't be able to do much. I have read there are LEDs to possibly diagnose power issues, but I don't see them (no LED is showing light, it seems). I'd like to test my other assumptions before thinking the main board is the cause.
Else, is there something I could try I have forgotten?
P.S: sorry for my (possibly) bad english, and the troubles of explanation; it's not as easy when english isn't the native language. I just wanted to mention that I have already repaired computers, so don't hesitate to tell me complicated answers.
Thanks in advance for your help.

spudnuty wrote:
Hello,
Anic,
You can't remove the CPU nor remove/replace the RAM… Really a bad model!
Yes you have to think of it more like a laptop. The only models w/ removable CPUs were the Towers.
Which explains why I thought CPU were usually removable (I have mostly used towers except the original iMac, before).
Thanks. I indeed never touch a board when the computer is plugged.
Hee hee I did since I was used to working on the ALS model where the power supply is enclosed.
Even on an enclosed power supply, I'd not want to touch some kind of board. Well, perhaps it's just me.
Actually, it's the info about which info I need that I'm looking for
After having tried what I could, the remaining bits seem locked (unlike other models).
Not sure what you mean here?
Well, after re-reading myself, I agree I don't really understand either
I meant that I have already tried as much as I could, but the remaining bits (so to mention, the RAM and CPU, mainly) can't be tested. So, I'm looking for testing other parts of the iMac (perhaps there's other things that can be tested, like flashing the EFI).
I'd like to hear from you that the built-in RAM can't be tested, please (to clear my assumption).
the external screen adaptor..(if it wasn't optional, then she does not know where it is).
Well it looks like this. It's pretty standard. Every iBook had one for instance.
http://www.synaptech.com/catalog/images/922-4554.gif
In fact, all the laptops I have seen have that kind of adaptor (although they may slightly vary from models to models), but I thought it was only for laptops (which, as they are easy to move, may have different available screens). Now, does it also apply to iMacs?
I have a question regarding this: I guess the LED3 is concerning the whole graphic card, not just the built-in output, right (in other words, not just about the "main" display)? So I doubt an external screen would make any difference since the LED3 is off (tell me if I'm wrong).
Well what the manual says is:
"LED 3: Indicates that the main logic board has established communication with the LCD display."
So if that's not light then the graphics chip is not communicating with LCD panel.
Fine, but can the graphics chip still communicate with the external port, even if the LED3 is off?
(sorry for having been unclear)
So you did a SMU reset like this:
"Resetting the SMU (System Management Unit)
1. Unplug all cables from the computer, including the power cord.
Wait 10 seconds.
2. Plug in the power cord while simultaneously pressing and holding the power button on the back of the computer.
3. Let go of the power button.
4. Press the power button once more to start up your iMac G5 (17-inch iSight).
Hmm… Not sure about step 2. The "simultaneously" part may not be what I did (I actually tried two things:
1: plugged back the power cord, then (after that) pressed the power button
2: while still unplugged, I pressed the power button (held down for about 5 seconds), then released it and plugged the power cord back.
Do you think I should press the power button while the iMac is still unplugged and keep the button pressed while I plug the iMac (then release the button after I have plugged it)?
If that doesn't help you really need that Mini VGA to VGA adapter so you can plug in a standard VGA monitor and check out the output of the graphics chip (GPU).
I'm glad you mentioned every iBook has one, since my sister has an iBook
I'll ask her.
Since it's not communicating with the LCD it could be a cable problem.
I'm doubting of that, because I'm sure the Mac does not boot at all (not just a blank screen, but also no power on USB ports).
Also you should read through this site:
http://jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php
Which concerns the "capacitor plague". I'm sure you're aware of this. We had 30 Dell P-IVs that had this problem and those logic boards had a ton of lytics on them.
Hmm… What a charming surprise
Well, I'm indeed aware of this (it hasn't happened to me yet, fortunately).
Thanks for the link.
As to the rest of your questions, answer this set first.
Fine, I follow the guide
Thank you.

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1. This procedure is a diagnostic test. It changes nothing, for better or worse, and therefore will not, in itself, solve the problem. But with the aid of the test results, the solution may take a few minutes, instead of hours or days.
Don't be put off by the complexity of these instructions. The process is much less complicated than the description. You do harder tasks with the computer all the time.
2. If you don't already have a current backup, back up all data before doing anything else. The backup is necessary on general principle, not because of anything in the test procedure. Backup is always a must, and when you're having any kind of trouble with the computer, you may be at higher than usual risk of losing data, whether you follow these instructions or not.
There are ways to back up a computer that isn't fully functional. Ask if you need guidance.
3. Below are instructions to run a UNIX shell script, a type of program. As I wrote above, it changes nothing. It doesn't send or receive any data on the network. All it does is to generate a human-readable report on the state of the computer. That report goes nowhere unless you choose to share it. If you prefer, you can act on it yourself without disclosing the contents to me or anyone else.
You should be wondering whether you can believe me, and whether it's safe to run a program at the behest of a stranger. In general, no, it's not safe and I don't encourage it.
In this case, however, there are a couple of ways for you to decide whether the program is safe without having to trust me. First, you can read it. Unlike an application that you download and click to run, it's transparent, so anyone with the necessary skill can verify what it does.
You may not be able to understand the script yourself. But variations of the script have been posted on this website thousands of times over a period of years. The site is hosted by Apple, which does not allow it to be used to distribute harmful software. Any one of the millions of registered users could have read the script and raised the alarm if it was harmful. Then I would not be here now and you would not be reading this message.
Nevertheless, if you can't satisfy yourself that these instructions are safe, don't follow them. Ask for other options.
4. Here's a summary of what you need to do, if you choose to proceed:
☞ Copy a line of text in this window to the Clipboard.
☞ Paste into the window of another application.
☞ Wait for the test to run. It usually takes a few minutes.
☞ Paste the results, which will have been copied automatically, back into a reply on this page.
The sequence is: copy, paste, wait, paste again. You don't need to copy a second time. Details follow.
5. You may have started the computer in "safe" mode. Preferably, these steps should be taken in “normal” mode, under the conditions in which the problem is reproduced. If the system is now in safe mode and works well enough in normal mode to run the test, restart as usual. If you can only test in safe mode, do that.
6. If you have more than one user, and the one affected by the problem is not an administrator, then please run the test twice: once while logged in as the affected user, and once as an administrator. The results may be different. The user that is created automatically on a new computer when you start it for the first time is an administrator. If you can't log in as an administrator, test as the affected user. Most personal Macs have only one user, and in that case this section doesn’t apply. Don't log in as root.
7. The script is a single long line, all of which must be selected. You can accomplish this easily by triple-clicking anywhere in the line. The whole line will highlight, though you may not see all of it in the browser window, and you can then copy it. If you try to select the line by dragging across the part you can see, you won't get all of it.
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Safari\ extensions Bad\ plists 'High file counts' User Heat System\ load boot\ args FileVault Diagnostic\ reports Log 'Free space (MiB)' 'Swap (MiB)' Activity 'CPU per process' Login\ hook 'I/O per process' Mach\ ports kexts Daemons Agents XPC\ cache Startup\ items Admin\ access Root\ access Bundles dylibs Apps Font\ issues Inserted\ dylibs Firewall Proxies DNS TCP/IP Wi-Fi Profiles Root\ crontab User\ crontab 'Global login items' 'User login items' Spotlight Memory Listeners Widgets Parental\ Controls Prefetching SATA Descriptors );N3=${#l[@]};for i in 0 1 2;do l[N3+i]=${p[5+i]};done;N4=${#l[@]};for j in 0 1;do l[N4+j]="Current ${p[29+j]}stream data";done;A0() { id -G|grep -qw 80;v[1]=$?;((v[1]==0))&&sudo true;v[2]=$?;v[3]=`date +%s`;clear >&-;date '+Start time: %T %D%n';};for i in 0 1;do eval ' A'$((1+i))'() { v=` eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((3+i))'() { v=` while read i;do [[ "$i" ]]&&eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}" \"$i\"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}";done<<<"${v[$4]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((5+i))'() { v=` while read i;do '${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$1]}" "$i";done<<<"${v[$2]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};';done;A7(){ v=$((`date +%s`-v[3]));};B2(){ v[$1]="$v";};for i in 0 1;do eval ' B'$i'() { v=;((v['$((i+1))']==0))||{ v=No;false;};};B'$((3+i))'() { v[$2]=`'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}"<<<"${v[$1]}"`;} ';done;B5(){ v[$1]="${v[$1]}"$'\n'"${v[$2]}";};B6() { v=` paste -d: <(printf "${v[$1]}") <(printf "${v[$2]}")|awk -F: ' {printf("'"${f[$3]}"'",$1,$2)} ' `;};B7(){ v=`grep -Fv "${v[$1]}"<<<"$v"`;};C0() { [[ "$v" ]]&&sed -E "$s"<<<"$v";};C1() { [[ "$v" ]]&&printf "${f[$1]}" "${l[$2]}" "$v"|sed -E "$s";};C2() { v=`echo $v`;[[ "$v" != 0 ]]&&C1 0 $1;};C3() { v=`sed -E "${s[63]}"<<<"$v"`&&C1 1 $1;};for i in 1 2;do for j in 0 2 3;do eval D$i$j'(){ A'$i' $1 $2 $3; C'$j' $4;};';done;done;{ A0;D20 0 $((N1+1)) 2;D10 0 $N1 1;B0;C2 27;B0&&! B1&&C2 28;D12 15 37 25 8;A1 0 $((N1+2)) 3;C0;D13 0 $((N1+3)) 4 3;D23 0 $((N1+4)) 5 4;D13 0 $((N1+9)) 59 50;for i in 0 1 2;do D13 0 $((N1+5+i)) 6 $((N3+i));done;D13 1 10 7 9;D13 1 11 8 10;D22 2 12 9 11;D12 3 13 10 12;D23 4 19 44 13;D23 5 14 12 14;D22 6 36 13 15;D22 7 37 14 16;D23 8 15 38 17;D22 9 16 16 18;B1&&{ D22 35 49 61 51;D22 11 17 17 20;for i in 0 1;do D22 28 $((N2+i)) 45 $((N4+i));done;};D22 12 44 54 45;D22 12 39 15 21;A1 13 40 18;B2 4;B3 4 0 19;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 5 11;A1 17 41 20;B7 5;C3 22;B4 4 6 21;A3 14 7 32 6;B4 0 7 11;B3 4 0 22;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 8 11;B5 7 8;B1&&{ A2 19 26 23;B7 7;C3 23;};A2 18 26 23;B7 7;C3 24;D13 4 21 24 26;B4 4 12 26;B3 4 13 27;A1 4 22 29;B7 12;B2 14;A4 14 6 52 14;B2 15;B6 14 15 4;B3 0 0 30;C3 29;A1 4 23 27;B7 13;C3 30;D13 24 24 32 31;D13 25 37 32 33;A2 23 18 28;B2 16;A2 16 25 33;B7 16;B3 0 0 34;B2 21;A6 47 21&&C0;B1&&{ D13 21 0 32 19;D13 10 42 32 40;D22 29 35 46 39;};D23 14 1 62 42;D12 34 43 53 44;D12 22 20 32 25;D22 0 $((N1+8)) 51 32;D13 4 8 41 6;D12 26 28 35 34;D13 27 29 36 35;A2 27 32 39&&{ B2 19;A2 33 33 40;B2 20;B6 19 20 3;};C2 36;D23 33 34 42 37;B1&&D23 35 45 55 46;D23 32 31 43 38;D12 36 47 32 48;D13 20 42 32 41;D13 37 2 48 43;D13 4 5 32 1;D13 4 3 60 5;D12 26 48 49 49;B3 4 22 57;A1 26 46 56;B7 22;B3 0 0 58;C3 47;D22 4 4 50 0;D23 22 9 37 7;A7;C2 2;} 2>/dev/null|pbcopy;exit 2>&-
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
8. Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Click anywhere in the Terminal window and paste by pressing command-V. The text you pasted should vanish immediately. If it doesn't, press the return key.
9. If you see an error message in the Terminal window such as "Syntax error" or "Event not found," enter
exec bash
and press return. Then paste the script again.
10. If you're logged in as an administrator, you'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You will not see the usual dots in place of typed characters. Make sure caps lock is off. Type carefully and then press return. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you make three failed attempts to enter the password, the test will run anyway, but it will produce less information. In most cases, the difference is not important. If you don't know the password, or if you prefer not to enter it, press the key combination control-C or just press return three times at the password prompt. Again, the script will still run.
If you're not logged in as an administrator, you won't be prompted for a password. The test will still run. It just won't do anything that requires administrator privileges.
11. The test may take a few minutes to run, depending on how many files you have and the speed of the computer. A computer that's abnormally slow may take longer to run the test. While it's running, there will be nothing in the Terminal window and no indication of progress. Wait for the line
[Process completed]
to appear. If you don't see it within half an hour or so, the test probably won't complete in a reasonable time. In that case, close the Terminal window and report what happened. No harm will be done.
12. When the test is complete, quit Terminal. The results will have been copied to the Clipboard automatically. They are not shown in the Terminal window. Please don't copy anything from there. All you have to do is start a reply to this comment and then paste by pressing command-V again.
At the top of the results, there will be a line that begins with the words "Start time." If you don't see that, but instead see a mass of gibberish, you didn't wait for the "Process completed" message to appear in the Terminal window. Please wait for it and try again.
If any private information, such as your name or email address, appears in the results, anonymize it before posting. Usually that won't be necessary.
13. When you post the results, you might see an error message on the web page: "You have included content in your post that is not permitted," or "You are not authorized to post." That's a bug in the forum software. Please post the test results on Pastebin, then post a link here to the page you created.
14. This is a public forum, and others may give you advice based on the results of the test. They speak only for themselves, and I don't necessarily agree with them.
Copyright © 2014 by Linc Davis. As the sole author of this work, I reserve all rights to it except as provided in the Use Agreement for the Apple Support Communities website ("ASC"). Readers of ASC may copy it for their own personal use. Neither the whole nor any part may be redistributed.

Imac not starting up getting folder icon

imac not starting up getting folder icon

i got the same sithuation ..
apple icon and stop icon and folder icon alternating .. on grey screen.
I tried a NVRAM / PRAM reset using Option + Command + P + R buttons (hence refered to as "combo")
Press and hold the combo when you start the mac .. before the grey screen appears.ystem second time ..
keep holding until the mac restarts again (takes about 5-6 sec).
voila

My Mac will not start up like normal and I don't knwo why

My iMac will not start up like normal and I don't know why. I tried to run Skype then nothing happend so I tried to restart my computer, but then it never loaded

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Notes start up front over and over again in Maverick

notes start up front over and over again in Maverick

Startup - Black Screen/White Text
Startup Issues - Resolve
Startup Issues - Resolve (2)

A 305- S6825 will not start with the battery and charger. There's no light, no noise on fan or HDD

PC will not start with the battery and charger. There's no light, no noise on fan, hard drive and CD writer. The hard drive, fan and charger are new. But I was havingproblems and sudden blackouts System 32. Try several times to install theoperating system but the pc turned off suddenly and restarted until I stop working completely. Now it does nothing and no light. I hope it can help me I need torespect and love very much this notebook.
Thanks in advance
Jose Echevarria
[email protected]

Turn off your laptop, unplug all wires, remove the battery, and hold the power button for thirty seconds. Afterwards, reattach the battery and connections. If it still won't start, remove the battery and start with just the AC power. Next try without the AC power and just the battery.
- Peter

TS2518 Help, I had aperture open and working on a image and did not have a battery in and bumped the power off. As a result it will not open my master, it is locked. when I try to open that Library it says There was an error opening the database for the

Help, I had aperture open and working on a image and did not have a battery in and bumped the power off. As a result it will not open my master, it is locked. when I try to open that Library it says There was an error opening the database for the library. I have tried every thing. I updated the other libr but now it will not open the main to update. What do I do?

Try starting Aperture with the command and option keys held down. You'll get 3 options.
Try each, starting at the top, in order, checking after each to see if it fixes the issue.

IMac not starting up and no chime

Hello,
My neighbor's computer is experiencing some problems: it does not start (the screen stays black, no startup chime, but the fans run, as does the hard disk. Also, neither the mouse or the keyboard seem to be powered (no light)).
I have tried usual commands (reset PRAM and reset the SMC). Also tried with no device connected. (well, if something so trivial than all these tips did the trick, I wouldn't had to ask here ).
So, without keyboard, I couldn't even try special modes (safe, target disk, start from CD, etc), should the Mac be able to start in some mode. I have then decided to open the iMac (well, the warranty is way out, so nothing is lost). I have never seen a so-hard-to-open Mac, by the way (something was likely blocked).
I'm thinking of 4 possible causes for the problem:
-the hard disk could be damaged. It was malfunctioning some days ago. I assume it could come to a point where the logical board of the disk is failing;
-the RAM is an obvious possible cause;
-the CPU is also obvious;
-another component on the main board/logic board.
-I have forgotten a 5th point?
Well, I tried with unplugging the hard disk, and it had no effect, so it's not the HDD. I'm puzzled for the remaining ones (not knowing the iMac enough is a cause).
First, about the RAM, it seems the RAM slot is empty, so the actual RAM is somehow built-in (I haven't seen something seeming like usual RAM bars), so, if I can't remove the RAM, how can I test whether it's damaged or not?
Then, the CPU. There are 2 of them. So I thought I may take one out (and then the other one) and see whether the Mac starts. Well, I can't figure out how to remove the CPU cooling piece (there are just 4 "buttons" that can be pressed but nothing happen). I prefer asking here first, not removing the entire main board without advices.
Lastly, if it's the main board, I know I won't be able to do much. I have read there are LEDs to possibly diagnose power issues, but I don't see them (no LED is showing light, it seems). I'd like to test my other assumptions before thinking the main board is the cause.
Else, is there something I could try I have forgotten?
P.S: sorry for my (possibly) bad english, and the troubles of explanation; it's not as easy when english isn't the native language. I just wanted to mention that I have already repaired computers, so don't hesitate to tell me complicated answers.
Thanks in advance for your help.

David.Austin.Allen wrote:
If the RAM slots are empty, someone has removed the RAM. There is no RAM on the logicboard.
This page does say some RAM is built-in: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2266
It explains why the RAM slot (which there is just one) is empty as there is not further RAM installed.
No startup chime means no usable RAM was encountered during Power On Self Test.
It may also mean some other problems, if I recall correctly (for instance, a dead CPU will prevent the chime, because the chime indicates all has passed).
I have the feeling that we aren't talking about the same model, because, according to:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2341
the LED should blink when there's no RAM. In my case, the LED stays on.
Exactly what model of iMac is this?
It's an iMac third generation 20'' isight (put the terms in the order you want ). EMC is 2082.
Thank you for this answer. Does not solve my problem but is useful in progressing.

2011 iMac not starting, then starting, and then not starting again?

Hi,
I've asked this question at another forum, but I haven't gotten any feedback, so I thought I'd try here.
I have a 2011 iMac which I'm not really happy with at all, to be honest.
The most severe problem is that it refuses to turn on sometimes. It has actually only happened two times so far, with a few weeks in between.
I talked to Apple for over two hours yesterday. After a lot of troubleshooting, PRAM resets, (obviously error-free) diagnostics, etc, they still had absolutely no clue what the problem could be.
The first time it happened, the iMac had been disconnected from the power outlet for a week. Imagine trying to power on an iMac with the power chord unplugged. That's how it was.
After a lot of fiddling around, inserting and reinserting the power cable, and pressing the power button 40-50 times, it finally booted up. I then turned it off again, and it wouldn't power on once again. Then, it suddenly started working as normal, turning on every time.
I happened again yesterday. The exact same issue, despite the fact that it has been plugged into the power all the time. After my long support call with Apple, it was working as usual again, powering on as normal every time. There was this one time when I held in the power button for like 5 seconds, until I heard the fans running. I then released the button, and the fans stopped. Then it powered on when I tried again.
Rebooting always works, going to sleep and waking up always works, and it never powers off by itself once it's on. Trying a different power outlet makes no difference.
I really just want another iMac, or my money back, but I understand that this is the absolute last thing Apple will do.
All I kept hearing from the support reps were "call a service place". But what good is that going to do?
What if it dies again and I really can't get it to work no matter how many times I press the button? It seems to be ALL about pressing the button btw, doing anything else has any impact whatsoever.
If a technician tries to start it, it may start on the first attempt. Or the third. Or the twentieth. I have no idea, since there's no pattern, and nothing to go by.
The only real clue is that it's imposible to NOT get it to start after it's been running for around 15 minutes.
So, what should I do? Should I try to get it fixed/replaced/sold? Should I reinstall Lion (the guys at Apple actually told me to try that)? Should I just accept it and never shut it off (only sleeping/waking and rebooting)?
I would love to hear your thoughts.

Sorry, I forgot to mention - I was instructed to do that. Don't know if it helped or not, only time will tell.
I'm 100% certain that the problem will occur again. It could be in a few weeks, or months, or even years.

HELP! iMac not starting up ... blue screen with folder and blinking ?

my imac is not starting up. when i turn on the computer, i get a blue screen with a blinking folder icon of the finder and a black question mark. i can't move anything or type anything.
i have tried powering down and powering back up with holding down the option key, but all i get is a screen with two buttons with a curved arrow and a straight arrow. however, i can't click any of them!
i don't know what to do and i need major help! can anyone help me? i don't want to spend the $49 again for a simple fix.

For starters, follow the steps in this Apple KB Article Post back if you have any questions or things still don't work out.
Clint

Intel iMac not starting...please HELP!!!

Hey all,
Well I just arrived to my new dorm room in college with my one week old iMac and I'm encountering some serious problems....
I plugged the computer in while it was on my desk, with other hardware attached into a surge protector and it worked fine for about two days. Today I recieved some new furniture so I had to unplug the computer to move things around....I unplugged it and placed it flat (screen side up) on a pillow.
I plugged it back in with a new surge protector, connected the hardware and pressed the button...didn't start. The printer, the speakers, everything else had power so it wasn't a faulty power strip...just the computer wouldn't start. I then did the following:
1. Tried different connections on the same surge protector
2. Switched back to the old surge protector
3. Plugged the computer w/o external devices into the wall directly
4. Tried it as described above into a different wall outlet
And nothing has worked. I'm going to call Apple in the morning, but as you can imagine with the year starting this is the last thing I need. I'm using my old G3 iBook at the moment to get by, but what has happened to my brand new iMac? Thanks for your help

DIRECTLY from the iMac Help site:
The System Management Controller (SMC) is a chip on the logic board that controls all power functions for your computer. If your computer is experiencing any power issue, resetting the SMC may resolve it. The SMC controls several functions, including:
* Telling the computer when to turn on, turn off, sleep, wake, idle, and so forth.
* Handling system resets from various commands.
* Controlling the fans.
Note that resetting the SMC does not reset the PRAM. Resetting the SMC will not resolve issues in which your computer is unresponsive—in these situations, restarting your computer will generally suffice. If your computer isn't responding, perform these steps one at a time, in this order, until the issue has been resolved:
1. Force Quit (Option-Command-Escape).
2. Restart (Control-Command-Power).
3. Force Shut Down (press the power button for 10 seconds).
Resetting the SMC can resolve some computer issues such as not starting up, not displaying video, sleep issues, fan noise issues, and so forth. If your computer still exhibits these types of issues after you've restarted the computer, try resetting the SMC. To reset the SMC on an iMac (Early 2006), iMac (Mid 2006), or Mac mini (Early 2006):
1. From the Apple menu, choose Shut Down (or if the computer is not responding, hold the power button until it turns off).
2. Unplug all cables from the computer, including the power cord and any display cables.
3. Wait at least 15 seconds.
4. Plug the power cord back in, making sure the power button is not being pressed at the time. Then reconnect your keyboard and mouse to the computer.
5. Press the power button on the back to start up your computer.
The iMac (Early 2006) and later models do not have a button on the main logic board for resetting the SMC, which eliminates the need to remove the computer's cover to reset it (as required for some earlier models).
iMac 20" Intel Dual Core Mac OS X (10.4.7) It's Sweet, It's a MAC

G4 Wont Start Up No chime and fan runs fast.

Hi Mac Users,
I am at my wits end! My Mac won't start up.When I switch it on there is no chime and the fan runs fast.
I have checked the battery and it is OK.
Tried the reset button and no joy.
I have reseated the ram memory still no improvement.
I am completely lost without my computer would some kind soul point me in the right direection?
It is the hub of my recording studio and my life cos I'm disabled.
I have read a lots of posts on here and I feel I am getting confused with too much information.
My names not Dan but I am desperate?...........Dylan.

The red LED indicates power to the logic board, which is good.
Try Resetting the Logic Board
Resetting the logic board can resolve many system problems. Whenever you have a
unit that fails to power up, you should follow this procedure
before replacing any modules.
1 Unplug the computer.
2 Press the Power On button on the front of the unit.
3 Open the side access panel.
4 Remove the battery from the logic board.
5 Wait at least 10 minutes before replacing the battery.
6 Make sure the battery is installed in the correct +/-
direction.
7 Reassemble the computer and test the unit.
Note:
This procedure resets the computer’s PRAM. Be sure to
check the computer’s time/date and other system parameter settings
Will your Mac boot using the Tiger install DVD (or another system CD/DVD)?
Will it boot in Safe Mode? See
What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode? (Mac OS X)
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
Look at this link.
*Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck*
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
 Cheers, Tom

Workflow could not start in HCM process and Forms

Hi All
It would be really helpful if you can suggest possible solution regarding case management case in HCM forms and process.
I have set up a simple custom HCM process and Form regarding Infotype 2 updation. I have checked the process and form consistency and it seems fine. Now when I run the process from HRASR_DT it generates a process number but it also gives an error workflow could not start.I get following error (SWIA log - Step history)
Executing flow work item - Transaction brackets of the workflow has been damaged
Exception occurred - Error when starting work item 000000007031
PROCESS_NODE - Error when processing node '0000000014' (ParForEach index 000000)
CREATE - Error when creating a component of type 'Step'
CREATE_WIM_HANDLE - Error when creating a work item
CREATE_VIA_WFM - Exit CL_HRASR00_POBJ_WF_EXIT triggered exeception for event CREATED and (target) status
EVENT_RAISED - Error updating the process object
Executing flow work item - Exit CL_HRASR00_POBJ_WF_EXIT triggered exeception for event STATE_CHG and (target) status READY->ERROR
EVENT_RAISED - Error updating the process object
Executing flow work item - Transaction brackets of the workflow has been damaged
Executing flow work item - Work item 000000007031: Object FLOWITEM method EXECUTE cannot be executed
Executing flow work item - Error when processing node '0000000014' (ParForEach index 000000)
I have searched few SAP notes such as 1384961 which talks about same error but it is implemented in our system (EA-HR 604 , Patch 27, )
Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Umang

Hi Swati
One of the similar (not exact) issues were resolved by correcting the event linkage....please refer thread:
http://scn.sap.com/message/14848795#14848795
Not sure of the details of the the resolution, maybe Ragavendran Kanagaraj can throw more light.
Just some high level checks (if not done already):
Check event linkage errors in SWEQADM if anything is related to your WF
Check in SWEL if it's showing any more details (not sure if it will)
Any warnings in syntax check of WF template (PFTC) or WF definition (SWDD)
Any error sin binding
regards,
Modak

Firefox version 3.5.16 will not start under Windows Vista and Windows 7 32bit

I have a Windows Vista computer that will not start any newer version of Firefox than 3.5.16. The process will run (as seen in the Task Manager) but do nothing.
I have since updated Windows to version 7 and the problem persists.
I have tried uninstalling Firefox and all Addons (flash-player, pdf-reader) and deleting all files (even user-specific ones).
Firefox can't be started in Profilemanger or safe-mode either.
Is there anything short of reinstalling windows I can try?

Solved it!
It was a dodgy version of Firebug (1.6.2) running, which would kill the disable/update process. It was killing something on the first run that would corrupt my Firefox.
How I fixed it:
* Download the latest Firefox
* Install Firefox 4 (as Standard) in-place upgrade
* Before finishing, un-tick the "Run Firefox Now" button
* Hit Finish
* Find Firefox in the Start Menu and hold Shift and click the executable (safe mode)
* Leave everything disabled
* You should now have a working Firefox!
Remove/update your add-ons as needed. I only had to upgrade Firebug in safe mode to get it working.
Odd how the check for updates completely broke this Firefox, wonder what was so bad about Firebug.
Hope this helps at least one other person! The "Run in Safe Mode" option is so hard to discover now when your browser is broken!

IMac not starting up (no chime and no USB power)

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